December 2008
service due displayed bad starting only half revs check injection check emmision s displayed after starting Read more
My car has developed a bit of an oil leak from the side of the sump. The area is solid but you can see the oil starting to weep through. Is there a repair i can do until after christmas when i can get a new sump fitted? Read more
The cost for a 1.8 zetec oil sump replacement is £35 for new sump off Ebay (200 at Fords!!!!)and 1.5 hours labour. No need to remove anything but the sump.
I have a Peugeot 306 2.0 Hdi (W reg) and I must say I am quite attached to my car, (probably a girl thing). Since September it has been to the Peugeot dealers 6 times because of the Engine Diagnostic light coming on, also the 'symptoms' have been minor, varied and intermittent, including, a reluctance to pull away on first drive after light comes on and running away without foot on accelerator, other times there's nothing to indicate a problem except that it doesn't 'feel' quite right. First time they said it was the throttle sensor, and they 'fixed' it. Then it went back, apparently it was a different fault and apparently they fixed it. Then the 3rd time they said they'd repaired it under warranty because the part was at fault, same again the 4th time. The 5th time they said it was a wiring problem, and the 6th time they said the wiring that was fixed last time had been done wrong and apologised. Then I got a phonecall to say that if it came on again (which it has) then it would need a new wiring loom at a cost of £1200. I really would like to know if this is a) an accurate analysis of the problem b) a reasonable price for it to be rectified c) worth getting fixed considering the value of the car. Any ideas? Read more
Hi Gerbil,
I have a peugeot 306HDI and I have been having the same problem, did you fix it?
I've just recently discovered my brake lights arn't working on my leon. The brake light of the tailgate works, but the other two don't work. I've changed the fuse no luck, and it can't be the bulbs as the light part of the bulb works. Any ideas???.
The only thing i can think off is that something electrical has gone Read more
hi i have the same problem, what was the cure?
Hello
My Suzuki Swift cranks very slowly first thing in the morning in the recent cold weather - not helped by a diet of short trips morning and evening with lights, blower etc always on meaning the battery rarely rarely gets a good charge. Although the manual recommends 5w-30 oil, I know the dealer who services it uses 10w-40 (no idea why, he's also a Ford dealer so you'd think he'd have supplies of the thinner oil!). Do other BR's think that I'd improve things if I changed to the thinner oil or would the difference be negligible?
Thanks & Regards Read more
It might get a longer run at weekends but not often (yes I know it's not good for
the car but that's how it is!).
I think that bearing in mind the car's day to day use you ought to make sure it gets a good run at weekend rather than it being a maybe.
In 5.2 miles journeys the engine isn't even getting properly warm - it's remarkable to drive a car with an oil temp gauge. It takes about 30 miles for the oil to get to temp.
If you can't do that then using the Optimate would help (assuming everything else is OK).
I have a 52 Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 Automatic.
Recently I have experienced the strangest fault. When driving along, the car will seem normal, and then the enging light and the spanner symbol appear. When you put it over to manual the 5 will appear, however when you try and kick down a gear with either the pedal or the manual lever, it stays in 5th gear. When you stop, you have 2 choices, 5th and 2nd. When changing between these gears it is very aggressive and jirky.
When you stop the car, switch it off and wait for while, you can then start it and the spanner disappears, however the engine light stays on. If the gearbox goes up through the gears with no issues the enging light goes out, however at times it jumps to 5th and will continue to stay in 5th until you intervene with the manual lever.
Everytime I get it booked in, it has cleared itself, however when I try to drive it within a couple of days it will have done it again.
Anyone have any idea what is happening? The Garage said the spanner is related to a broken exhaust, which is about to be replace, however could this have caused the "limp mode" Read more
Thought I would give you an update -
The coolant has been leaking into the gear box, so this has been a small bill of £2,700.
I was shocked at the amount of people that have reported problem with this, so I contacted vauxhall to make my point. They did not get my point, however confirmed that cars had a life expectancy, and due to the age of my car, it was not even worth a gesture of good will???
So from Vauxhalls own mouth, their cars are not expected to last 6 years covering 45,000 miles???
Help please. My Clio dCI 80 suddenly lost power the other day. No power at low revs unless the revs got to 3,200 rpm then the turbo came back into play and everything seemed normal. Fifth gear at motorway speeds was a waste of time.
Local (non Renault) garage diagnosed the problem as the ERG (intermittent notice on the diagnostics) although the car is now working ok (Typical).
No warning lights at all!
Any ideas???
Thanks
Scott Read more
Just like to say thank you to O2skn for is advice on cleaning the EGR valve.
My Nieces Clio 1.5 DCI 54 reg had suffered a loss of power. Cleaning the valve appears to have fixed the problem.
Mondeo 2.0TDCI 6 speed
Both reversing lights and sensors not working apart from the on the odd occaision.
I think it is the reversing switch on the gearbox.
Can anyone tell exactley where it is and what the procedure is for replacement?
Anyone know the cost of this item
Thanks
Timbo Read more
It's under the main battery/air intake, on top of the gearbox. 22mm spanner needed. It costs £9.05 inc VAT (trade price). Awkward job I think unless you have a 22mm crows foot.
Common fail on this car. Removing and lubing the things may work for you.
hello all, newbie to the site,
I have had the above mentioned car, petrol model for around 9 months, So far it has been in and out of the dealers many times, anti pollution faults, catalytic converter fault the most freqent, when the dealers inspected, nothing was wrong, the car ran as normal, and drove well.
The car had some things i thought was wrong when i purchased it, On start up from cold, feels like the whole car shakes, and after a minute or so it settled down and stopped, Also on reving the car from idle speed, it sounds very raspy, not smooth, bit of a splutter when decelerating. Also there is a type of loud tappety noise, more like a clanging, comes in when the car is under acceleration. and its very hard to point out where the actual noise is coming from, but with this it runs very smooth.
Today on start up from cold the catalytic converter fault came on the car, Now standing at idle speed the car shakes more violently, and seems to be lot of smoke from exhaust, and the tappety sound is more present. but i drove the car for a short distance, and it ran as it allways does, on stopping the car regained its shakes.
If anyone can shed any light on this problem.
many thanks
Read more
I have a 2007 Suzuki Swift that has done about 6000 miles and has developed an occasional clutch judder.
It happens when the vehicle has not been used for some hours, or overnight, but the fault disappears quickly. My suspicion is that the rear engine oil seal is letting-by, and the use of the clutch burns off the small amount of oil.
The car has a 3 year warranty. The main dealer wants a £91 'inspection fee' which would be refunded if any fault is found that is covered by the guarantee.
As the fault is intermittent, should I risk paying the fee, or leave it until it gets worse and there is no question of a fault?
Also, say the car was left on the Dealer's forecourt overnight and was vandalised, would the Dealer be liable to pay for the repair?
Read more
If it's any consolation I've also got a Swift ('56 reg about 13 000 miles)
with exactly the same problem. I too have contemplated going to the dealer about it
but short of leaving it with them overnight I can see no way of demonstrating
the problem to them.
This is what the dealer has suggested, but I might leave it for a while and see what develops; I don't want to be told that they can't find anything and be presented with a £91 bill!
Or I might try a different dealer.
Thanks for all the replies. It seems this is a common problem.
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the service due has been on for 5 weeks no probs it was just today while driving it lost power and iluminated check injection then check emmisions it starts badly and only revs 3.5k will get codes checked thanks