January 2008
I have an 04 K12 Micra 1.2S(Which should have been included in the subject header - GRRRRR) , first the mileometer digits went down at 18,000 miles and had to fit new, now the red PS light has come on and there is No power steering! now, I know these have an electric motor on the column that can fail, however before I go ahead and have the whole thing changed is there any other fault it could be? its only done 20,000, worst car I have ever owned! Read more
I recently bought a C5 2.0 Hdi and a warning "Anti pollution fault" appears on the display.This warning appears only every now and then.Took it back to dealer and he said it was a low voltage problem.Ya right.What is the solution to this problem?Thanks for any replys that may come. Read more
Look on FrenchCarForum and find someone with a Lexia computer who can plug your car in and identify what's wrong. There's many possible reasons for such a fault and the car needs to be plugged into the proper computer.
I have owned this car from new and have only a few minor problems until about 15 months ago. The car has only done 23000 miles, 1600 miles in the last 2 years. My problem is the engine which cuts out whilst accelarating from idle. The fault is intermittent and does not normally occur from cold and will need 4 or 5 miles before stalling is likely to happen. It does not happen when travelling above about 15mph. It can go for days with no problem at all, then it could cut out 3 or 4 times in ten minutes.
It mostly occurs when pulling away from idle at junctions, roundabouts etc. after 2 or 3 metres the engine shuts down for half a second or so with all the ignition lights showing on the dash, then fires up again and then it runs as normal until possibly it does it at the next stopping point. I am only doing 5-10 mph when it happens. It also ocurs when stopping and reversing slowly (say into a parking bay). This time because the travel is so slow it cuts out but does not fire up again. Attempts to start the engine end in either the engine turning over for 1 or 2 seconds not firing then the starter motor stops. Trying to start the car again either goes through the same again, or the starter motor will not turn at all. I have been 5 or 6 minutes trying to restart the car. Then recently it stopped again whilst reversing into a parking bay on the road side. I was now blocking the traffic so had to eventually push the car further down the road. I then tried to start it again and it fired up first time.
I took the car to a Renault dealer last year with the fault. They did their diagnostic checks, removed and cleaned the throttle body fitted new gaskets and rectified an air leak - £157.00. It appeared to be okay but the problem soon returned. With the reversing problem I took it back to the dealer. They had it for two days and although they witnessed the fault on a test drive and the reversing fault occured whislt with them the end result was that they could not indentify the cause, only suggesting it could be a wiring fault in the loom. I do not buy that because it only happens at low speed. I did see another forum site where there was mention of a accelarator pedal sensor being a problem.
Is there anyone out there who could help identify the fault with the clio. Sorry for the length of this piece but I tried to give as much info as possible.
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Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.
Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.
Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.
To remove the anti tamper cover on the ECU plug you will find a little slot on the back face of the metal box, take 2mm diameter drill use it to feel through the slot into a wheel with holes in the edge move the wheel upwards by taking the drill out and finding a lower hole move upwards and repeat again with a lower hole, be patient as the thread you are turning is very fine. Eventually the thread will have wound the release catch along the thread and released the two halfs of the heavy anti tamper cover which regularly rubs through the loom. As a Renault technician said I have seen this problem once week for the last 10 years, take it off and throw it a far as you can. It serves no electrical shielding purpose it is just anti tamper. God bless Renault with all their quirky ideas, drive the change is the slogan, change the marque would be more appropriate....
As the proud owner of a June 2003 Jazz, I was alarmed to read the following item in HJ's section of the DT:
· Breaking up...
"My 2002/52 Honda Jazz needs some new gearbox bearings. One is breaking up and I have been quoted £1,000 to sort that or £1,300 to replace all seven. Is this reasonable? Would it be cheaper to buy a reconditioned gearbox instead?"
L.W., via email
·
"This is fairly common on older Jazz models. Honda helps if the car is less than five years old but won't contribute if it isn't. Get competitive quotes from specialist transmission repairers."
My four-and-a-half years old Jazz has done 37K miles and from new I have endeavoured to do all the things which HJ recommends so as to ensure long reliable life from this car.
However, I have to confess that the following advice (from FAQ's) did not happen:
"It's also a good idea to have the transmission oil changed after the first year to get rid of any swarf which could later be ground up into tiny particles which eventually get into the bearings and accelerate wear."
I did enquire about having this done at the time but was told "We have never heard of the need for that". The Jazz Service Book says: Replace transmission fluid at 75K or 96 months, whichever comes sooner.
Is the failure to have the oil changed at 12 months, the reason why L.W. is having problems now? His mileage is not quoted but as a rule Jazz owners do not do high mileage.
What signs or sounds should I be looking out for to indicate that I, too, face similar problems?
On the grounds that it is better late than never, my immediate reaction is to have my gearbox oil changed immediately. Main Dealer's cost for doing anything is horrific. Is there a particular oil that I should ask local inde' to use for this job?
TIA
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No doubt the garage that serviced it - which was not a Honda dealer - changed the gearbiox oil on the due mileage, using the correct oil and itemised it on the receipt they gave to you? (It MUST be a specific oil -there was a series of memos on this to delaers).
...
Just browsing Ebay for nothing in particular (as you do!) and noticed a tuning box for a turbo diesel car. It got me thinking that they all claim extra power AND extra MPG.
Now the extra power I can understand by turning up the turbo a bit but extra economy? Surely that is rubbish. When you are accelerating, you'll be usibng more fuel as the turbo is turned up and when you are cruising surely it makes no difference to economy.
Thoughts/Experiences most welcome. Read more
For the very simple reason that they charge hundreds of pounds more for a vehicle with an uprated engine. The engines are identical, it is just that some are electronically detuned.
Hi there, I wondered if anyone had any experience of the 2003 Fiesta. My father has a 2003 1.4 Zetec with only 23,000 miles but there is a major problem with the front suspension. I suspect a spring has snapped or something collapsed, it is in the garage but cannot reverse it out as the nearside wheel is catching on the arch. It is sitting very low at the front end. Also you cannot get your hand between the tyre and the wheel arch on the nearside front, there is some clearance on the drivers side. Would this point to a broken coil spring? I suspect it might be this or a wishbone snapped. It was driving find before trying to move it from the garage. I know some cars have failed springs but thought it only made them sag a few inches. This looks like the old Mini hydralastic failure when the whole car drops down. Read more
Yes, it's a very common problem, I'm very sorry to have to say.
You don't have to have both sides done "for balance", you can just replace the broken spring. However, since it's almost certainly only a matter of time before the other one breaks, it's probably a good idea to change both....
We are often asked why don?t you do an article on Gear Oils? Well, an article would be very complex but here are the answers to a few FAQ?s that we have had over the years.
What does API GL mean?
API stands for American Petroleum Industry and GL stands for Gear Lubricant, see below for their definitions:
API GL-1 Straight mineral oil
API GL-2 Mild EP for worm gears
API GL-3 Mild EP for spur and spiral bevel gears in axles and transmissions
API GL-4 Medium EP, MIL-L-2105 quality, moderate severity hypoid gears, manual transmissions
API GL-5 High EP, MIL-L-2105D quality, all hypoid axles, some manual transmissions
API GL-6 Extra high EP, now obsolete
Is it important to select the right API GL rating?
Yes. Selecting the correct gear oil performance level will provide the best protection to the components of the transmission.
What do the SAE grades mean?
SAE stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers. The SAE classification system is a way of defining how thin or how thick an oil is. This is known as an oil?s viscosity. The classifications are listed here in order of increasing thickness: SAE 75W, SAE 80W, SAE 85W, SAE 90, SAE 140, SAE 250.
What does EP mean?
EP means extreme pressure and refers to the additive used in gear oils. This additive is designed to stop metal-to-metal contact taking place between transmission components. The EP additives are usually based on sulphur and phosphorous. These elements bond to the metal surfaces where there are points of extreme pressure and temperature, forming a sacrificial chemical layer. The sulphur gives gear oils their characteristic smell.
Will synthetic gear oils and mineral gear oils mix together?
Yes, but beware that there two kinds of synthetic gear available: polyalphaolefin (PAO) based and polyalkylene glycol (PAG) based. PAOs are basically a man made version of mineral oils (although with greatly improved properties) and can therefore be mixed with mineral oils. In fact, semi-synthetic products have mineral and synthetic base fluids in them, so obviously, they must be able to mix. PAGs, on the other hand, will not mix with PAOs or mineral oil. Utmost care must be taken when using this kind of product.
What is a hypoid axle?
Hypoid is an abbreviation for hypocycloidal and relates to the geometry of the crown wheel and pinion arrangement usually on rear wheel drive cars. The pinion is usually highly offset to reduce propshaft intrusion into the passenger compartment.
Do I need a special oil for limited slip differentials?
Yes. When the power distribution between two drive shafts is no longer equal (usually due to the surface condition that the drive wheels are turning on, i.e. ice, mud), limited slip differentials are able to effectively lock the two half shafts, ensuring equal power distribution once again. When this limited slip differential mechanism ?kicks in? there is a high shock loading on the clutch mechanism that requires protection from wear and slippage. Use of the incorrect oil can lead to clutch degradation and vibration.
Why should I choose non-EP straight oils for my classic car?
Depending on the age, make and model non-EP gear oils may be required for use in gearboxes and final drives. Certain designs contained a lot of phosphor-bronze (copper containing) components that are sensitive particularly to the sulphur extreme pressure (EP) additive. The sulphur attacks the copper and destroys the integrity of the meshing gear surfaces.
Is it alright to use ATF in a manual gearbox?
Certain designs do specify the use of an ATF in manual gearboxes, but they should only be used where it is clearly stated by the manufacturer.
Is there one gear oil that will meet all my requirements?
This will depend on makes and models, but very often the answer is no. Gearboxes, final drives, transfer boxes, etc., all have their own specific lubrication requirements. The specification of the oil required will be outlined by the design engineers, who will determine which type of oil will provide the maximum protection to the transmission components. It may certainly be possible to rationalise and reduce the number of lubricants used, but the magical
single product may not be achievable.
What is the difference between a gear oil, an atf and an mtf and why are they sometimes interchangeable?
There is a fair amount of common ground, all do a basically similar job, an ATF could be regarded as a low viscosity gear oil with more precisely controlled frictional properties.
What is an MTF and why is it used instead of a gear oil?
MTF ( manual transmission fluid ) is a term preferred by some OEMs, perhaps they think it's more descriptive than "gear oil". It doesn't call up any particular performance or viscosity. For example a Volvo MTF will not be the same as a Honda MTF.
How do gear oil, atf and mtf viscosities relate to engine oil viscosities?
Gear oils and engine oils are classified by 2 different viscosity grading systems. A 75W-90 gear oil, for example, is about the same viscosity as a 10W-40 engine oil. In theory ATFs and MTFs can be any viscosity as required by the OEM. In practice ATFs are approx. the same viscosity as a SAE 10 engine oil or a ISO 32 hydraulic oil. MTFs are about the same, possibly slightly thicker.
What is a 75w gear oil as this is only a cold crank rating isn?t it?
The target here is 4.1 cSt minimum @ 100 deg. C + the low temp target. If the gear oil in question is, for example, a 75W-80 it must meet both specs which is effectively the 75W low temp + the high temp targets of both specs.; 4.1 cSt minimum for the SAE 75W and 7.0 - 11.0 cSt for the SAE 80. You can see that the SAE 80 target " overlays" the SAE 75W target so expect the KV 100 of a 75W-80 to be about 9 cSt.
Can one gear oil cover a number of viscosities like 75w-90, 80w-90 and 90 and why?
Yes it can, the viscosity grades are not mutually exclusive, it is possible to blend a gear oil with multigrade characteristics such that it falls within, for example, the SAE 75W and the SAE 90 viscosity bands. A mulitgrade oil ( gear or otherwise ) is simply an oil which falls into more than one viscosity grade.
Why do some synthetic gear oils cause poor shifting in older or high mileage boxes?
If this really happens it can be that the generally lower viscosity of a synthetic gear oil may not suit an older or worn box.
Can engine oils be used in gearboxes if they are the right viscosity and are there advantages to using them?
Engine oils can be used in certain gearboxes, in the past it was the norm to do just that. Modern engine oils can be expected to attain the baseline API GL4 performance required for gear protection. Viscosity is not likely to be an issue, the viscosity of a 10W-40 engine oil, for instance, approximates to a 75W-90 in gear oil terms. The gear oil viscosity grade system uses bigger numbers than the engine oil system but that doesn't mean the oils are thicker.
The advantages? The detergency and antiwear systems in engine oils may cope with excessive "competition" temperatures better. Engine oils are intended for a shorter service life than gear oils so one point to be aware of is the viscosity modifiers used in multigrade engine oils may not be as shear stable as true gear oil VM?s so a bigger viscosity drop in service is possible. If you are considering this, use a top quality shear stable engine oil, or talk to us first.
Are filled for life gear oils a gimmick and are they in the long term bad for your gearbox?
I wouldn't say they are a gimmick but they do assume "normal" service conditions. Having a modified engine putting more power through the box & competition conditions don't lend themselves to gentle gear changes so you may see higher wear rates and more wear debris in circulation. It's logical to change the oil periodically if only to flush out the wear debris.
Of course the discerning owner may wish to change the oil occcasionally even if the service conditions are considered to be less severe.
This may raise more questions than it answers but hopefully it is of use to some of you.
The Opie Oils Team
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Interesting article, thank you for the info.
I have O2G gearbox in my VW T4 camper and recently has had gearbox oil change as well as new gaskets. In last couple of weeks it has develop ever so slight louder metallic noise while being driven in forth only. I spoke to mechanic who reassured that it’s not a bearing issue but possibly something to do with gear itself. Was thinking on maybe trying thicker oil but not sure how or what would be good to try.
Any ideas?
Thank you in anticipation.
(moved from a question that was relating to a fault with a diesel engine)
I have a 2004 Vauxhall Zafira Petrol 1.6, last Tuesday, driving in to work I had to join a main road turning right across the carriageway and needed to put my foot down to get up to speed. Whn I did this the ignition electronics 'spanner' light came on and the engine lost a lot of power for a few seconds. I drove the rest of the way into work (all downhill) with the light on, trying to use the accelerator as little as possible and when I stopped and restarted the engine in the car park, the light went out. Since then the car has run normally.
This morning, again driving into work and this time almost coasting downhill with very little use of the accelerator, the light came on again. This time there was no loss of power to the engine and the car drove absolutely normally again. Again, one I got into work and stopped and started the engine, the light went out.
I don't know what's causing the light to come on - the only other thing I can say is that the car is a couple of months overdue for a service and, judging from the rust on the back-box, the exhaust might be in need of replacement at some point soon as well.
Any ideas?
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Just had the spark plugs changed on my company 2006 Zafira at 40,000 miles (scheduled in the second service) plus all the filters etc and not surprisingly it's like a new car! No way I would run a car I owned to that mileage on one set of plugs.
During monday mornings ridiculous weather I spent 2 hours never getting to work. At one stage on the flatlands of the Fylde I drove for several hundred yards up a flooded lane lane that got steadily deeper. I was following a Hi-Lux and watched in horror as the water got ever closer to his bodywork. I this the same technique in flood water; select 1st gear, enter slowly then build up speed gently to create a bow wave. I reckon I was in 12 - 15" inches of water when panic set in, I didn't dare lose speed by turning round, eventually I found a farm drive that climbed out of the water where I turned round and retreated, discretion being the better part of valour! but what would happen if it had got deeper, what's the danger ? The ignition system is as high under the bonnet as it could be, so is it water entering the engine block through air intake or elsewhere? Read more
Just as a matter of interest say you have a 2000cc engine running at 1000
rpm what volume of fluid is that pumping through the engine per second per minute?
On a diesel, without making any deductions for relative efficiency, 1000 litres a minute of air - or half-a-cupful of water.
[Because after the first half-cupful of water, it likely won't be drawing in anything, ever, again.]
Hiya!
The engine warning light (??? pic of a little engine, orangey light) keeps staying on in my Focus. It was reset once by a garage who read it and said they couldnt detect a fault.
They said it's possible that a slight problem on the cat could trigger it, but that it looked fine and in their opinion didnt need replacing.
So, it came back on again not long after. They've said that it will stay on for 50 ignition starts or we can keep going back in and paying for it to be reset.
Has anyone had any experience with a problem like this? Any suggestions?:)
Thanks in advance.
We got the car following advice on here, and we are chuffed with it so far (just a little niggle this that's starting to irritate my husb:D)
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I had same problem.All drives ok no loss of power or erratic idle. Called Ford dealer who wanted to plug into Diagnostic and said it would be minimum cost of £50 to diagnose. Hopefully you will be as lucky as me..........
Disconnect battery negative cable and leave it for 2 + minutes.Re connect cable then disconnect it again........Do same for minimum of 3 times then reconnect for last time.Do not switch ignition on or use any power during this operation.With luck the warning light will extinguish when you next start the engine....
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How old is your battery? - Electric power steering is a very high current draw and if battery is on it's way out it causes issues. Don't know about the Micra but I've encountered this with other cars - usually tells me it's time for a new battery!
Lockdowns (especially no 1) have been responsible for the premature demise of many a car battery of late....