July 2008
I made the mistake of washing the car at the weekend and found that it's more pock-marked than I thought and I even have a tiny rust bubble forming on the roof.
My desire for a Spec B has subsided for the time being so I'll be keeping the Legacy for a year or more so thought I might get a chipsaway style bloke to come and give it a nip & tuck.
Anyone know what kind of costs I might be into? There are probabaly three sctatches/big chips worth seeing to both front and rear as well as the roof bubble and some surface scratches where our stupid dog has jumped up at the doors when I've arrived home.
I also seem to have attracted some car-park eejits - can they suck these out or do I need a Dentaway as well? Read more
Long story short - I have a registration mark on my 'toy' car which I think has a market value, but am not sure if is transferable as I can find no reference on the V5. There is a validation reference of Z next to it. What does this mean? The document for my main steed has a different validation character. What is this andis it an indicator as to transferability? Read more
I have just transfered my wifes plate on to her next car. The old car has been given back it's original plate and it states that it is not transferable to a different car in the future.
This is my last stop with this problem - the scrap heap is next!!!
BMW E46 320D sport 150 bhp (build date march/2003)
(Current approx Mileage ? 132,000 miles
SYMPTOM: Car not boosting properly @ 2000 revs ? I estimate that car is down approx 40 ? 50 % of boost at 2000 revs MPG gone from 45mpg to 37mpg
LIST OF PARTS CHANGED TO DATE
1. Turbo Charger @ 110,000 miles ? work carried out by independent mechanic. Crank Case breather also changed.
2. Catalytic converter @ 110,000 miles ? Independent mechanic
NOTE : Car boost was perfect at this point ? and only seemed noticeable from 120,000 miles on.
3. Fuel Pump to fuel tank @ 125,000 Miles ? Independent mechanic
4. Fuel Pump (intermediate) @ 125,000 miles ? Independent mechanic
5. 4 fuel injectors fitted ? BMW dealer
NOTE: Changing the fuel injectors solved the warm start problem; however turbo boost problem still was not resolved.
6. Air mass meter @ 125,000 miles ? Independent mechanic
7. Air mass programmed ? BMW dealer
8. Car software updated ? BMW dealer
9. Full diagnostic check carried out on diesel injection system ? by ?Diesel Injection Specialists? no fault codes present, however boost showed approx 3 specific spikes in boost @ 2000, 2500, 2900 revs. the injection specialist in consultation with BMW technicians advised the following parts be changed ?..
NOTE: Parts changed in the last 1000 ? 2000 miles
10. Turbo Pressure converter @ 130,000 miles
11. Both Vacuum hoses from turbo pressure converter to turbo
12. Vacuum Reservoir & hose that goes across engine.
13. EGR pressure converter was removed (covered in oil) and the Turbo pressure converter was used in its place (the turbo pressure converter was significantly cleaner).
14. EGR vacuum hoses changed.
15. Vacuum hose to radiator changed.
16. Crankcase breather changed.
NOTE: Car performance has improved marginally since software update, pressure converters & vacuum hose change but still at least 40-50% down on correct level of boost at the correct time in the rev cycle.
17. Car put on main dealers GT1 Computer - no fault codes showing up - they said the car was showing the "correct charge air pressure", They gave me a live printout of all the results.
QUESTION : Is there a certain level of drop in performance before a fault code will be logged????????
Any help/comments greatly appreciated - 1 turbo supplier in the UK suggested it may be the intake manifold pressure sensor - however no fault codes are showing up. Have also been on Bmwland web site (Numerous others have this problem also), but no solutions available - can anyone out there solve this problem, main dealers have no solution (this car was never chipped / altered in any way). Pretty good performance before this issue.
Regards,
Pat O'Connor
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see the tread
A number of owners of the 2.0TDCi have reported the "oil service" message coming up on the in-dash display, often after just 3000 miles or so (service interval is 12,500 miles or one year). Here's my experience.
My 2.0TDCi Zetec is nearly 5 months old and 3500 miles up. In the last week or so I've had the "oil service" message come up on the information display when turning the key.
No other warning lights, oil level is fine. Never needed to top up.
Rang the supplying Ford main dealer (very helpful on this matter) and they told me it's a known problem.
The fix is an oil & filter change and an ECU update, they say.
The service manager says it's an oversensitive sensor relating to the DPF, which reports the oil has become contaminated and is putting the DPF at risk. The ECU update is supposed to reset the parameters for the sensor.
Oil drop, filter & update is free, under warranty. Presumably Ford are hedging their bets, as it's cheaper to do a quick oil / filter change than risk having to replace DPFs under warranty later on ...
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More likely the settings were devised in testing. When putting 100,000-odd miles on a car in 18 months, it doesn't get turned off a lot(!)
When handed over into "real world" use, a tweak was required.
I have had my car for about 1 1/2 years now, it was bought second hand from a ford dealer, but as it was a demo car even though its 2002 year, it only had 1100 miles on the clock when I bought it. A few months back I was driving on the motorway about 70mph and eac fail started flashing on my dash, when I slowed it was extremly hard to get any power back up again and eventually when I came off to a roundabout, when I tried to pull away in 1st gear it cut out on me. I turned the engine off and back on again and it was like nothing has happened. I called fords and they said may be a glitch see how it goes. 2 weeks later it done it again, called fords and took it into them. They put it on their diagnostics and £70 later they said I needed a new throttle body but it was on back order at the factory so I would have to wait. They said I could continue driving the car in the meantime. I waited 9 weeks for the part with the car continually doing it to me. It started every two weeks but then was happening every other day. Eventually whent he part was in, they fitted it. 2 weeks after this so called repair the car done the same thing again called fords and have to take it back again for diagnostics, have told them I am not paying them for it! I am due to take the car tomorrow but yesterday it happened again doing it's usual. I pulled off the motorway to turn off and back on again, but when I started to slow I changed down into 4th gear and when I released the clutch it jolted like it was too soon to release and a few moments after as well as eac fail flashing, my engine management light and oil light also came on and it seemed as though I lost my power steering also.
Any ideas what the problem could be? have seen some posts on the net and am getting concerned that this is going to cost me and they may not even fix it!
Thanks
Jaz Read more
The same warning has just come on in my 03 plate 1.4tdci. And coincidentally it has been tipping it down all day and I inadvertently hit a large puddle in the dark lanes. It didnt loose any power (well i didnt notice any anyway) and only came on when i was going down a steep hill on overrun (not touching accelerator). As soon as i pressed the throttle the warning went off then released the throttle and the warning came on again.
A guy at work seems to think that it is something to do with the water hitting the alternator and belt, making the belt slip, thus creating a fault that the alternator is not sending a feed to the battery.
Could there be any truth in this as he was under the impression that on one of his previous cars, EAC stood for Electronic Auxilliary Charge.
Ian
One of my front tyres is losing around 5psi a week. But it doesn't ever go below 20psi. I can't spot anything obvious so i'd be interested in opinions as to what the cause could be. I've recently had the wheel refurbished as it had some scuffing on it.
One of my friends has suggested a possible valve leak. Read more
By the way ATS tightened all four valves free of charge so a big thumbs
up to them!
It depends largely on the individual fitter, rather than the company. I had a new tyre fitted at ATS. Firstly the fitter said he couldn't balance the wheel because it was buckled ~ a franchised Peugeot dealer subsequently proved this wasn't true. Secondly the fitter lost the wheel's centre trim disc, but denied it, and it cost me a tenner to buy a new one.
Peugeot 306 HDi 2001 Fault code P0230 determined from scantool
78K
Purchased 7 months ago because previous pug in rear end shunt.
3 Months warranty on this HDi expired now. Was fine during the 3 months. Done about 2K since purchase.
MIL light on, can go off on sharp turns or bumpy road surface
Sometimes stalls above about 2400 revs
Currently in limp home mode.
Got P0230 on scan, read forum postings and carried out following
Changed the lifter pump and fuel filter
Checked ignition relay ? seems OK. It switches lifter pump on and off without problems
Inertia switch OK
No change in trouble codes. Still reporting P0230
Hooked multi meter into common rail sensor (Near ECU wire entry) and get approx following readings. Can?t seem to read live pressure data with scantool. (Grrrr?)
RPM Voltage /V
1000 1.3
1500 1.4
2000 1.6
2500 1.7
3000 2.2
Reasonably linear I think.
Can reset MIL lamp and will then rev past 3000 rpm and does not stall.
Go for a drive and engine will stall and MIL light back with P230 code.
The engine sounds fine. Would it sound strange if there was an injector problem ?
I read a posting about air flow MAF sensor earthing ? Could this be related to this problem. Airflow looks ok on chart from scanner. Unlikely I think.
If I disconnect pressure sensor, engine runs and will rev past 3000 rpm but performance suffers.
Is this a high pressure pump/injector problem ?? Or some weird wiring fault with a sensor/wire harness. I am sick of this HDi engine and the expense that Peugeot main dealers are likely to put me through to solve this problem.
Is it a seal in the high pressure pump stop solenoid ? The engine seems to run OK with the MIL light on. Or is it the ECU ?
Peugeot you can do better than this !!!
Judging by similar postings, I am not alone with this P0230 code and the headache it causes.
Are there any further simple tests that I can do before I get fleeced by the garage for the high pressure side repairs ?
Any friendly HDi specialists out there ?
800 M development costs for HDi and 4 years work by two major companies. You think PSA could manage more than 77K without engine trouble. A normal diesel could ! At least design an ECU diagnosis system that can tell you the exact problem, or support DIY diagnosis without all this dealer analyser rubbish.
Rant over. I have to get the bus to the supermarket.
Thanks to all the people who have put useful postings on this site. The information has given me the confidence to look into the problem myself.
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I realise this is quite an old thread but this may be of interest. I've been getting the P0230 fault and - occasionally - the P0243 fault on my 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara which uses the Peugeot RHZ HDI engine. The P0230 appeared about a year ago and was easily diagonosed as the lifter pump - which on the GV is external to the fuel tank and so it was a quick and easy job to replace it with a new Bosch unit - about £100. However the fault persisted and a year later was getting worse. A leak off test showed that all injectors were fine and the pressure from the new pump was fine as well. I had removed and tested the pressure regulator solenoid valve on the back of the high pressure pump which seemed good and I even laid out £3 for the new o-ring and split backing washer. So I was stymied. I couldn't see why but I worked out that the only thing left - and most obvious really with hindsight - was that the fuel pressure regulator valve inside the fuel filter housing was sticking.
I removed the housing. unclipped the valve, wiped the diesel off it and blew through it. Clean as a whistle. In fact it did whistle. So there was the problem - fuel pumped into the filter was leaking straight back to the fuel tank. I bought a new filter and housing (£46 from Europarts) and P0230 has not been seen since. ...
just wondering what other users on here think of hammerite?
i use a few car forums and it always gets mentioned when someone needs to refurbs some rusted cars or parts
ive used it in the past and found it to chip off and generaly be pretty poor paint, doesnt seem to hold back rust any differant to any other brush on paint
just amazes me how its all over the shops still...or am i being unfair?
also intrested if youve found something that works , ive recently had good results with rustoleum Read more
Still not good if hits your house.
especially as we have no railings to protect us
Hi, just wondering whether I can get some advice here about rear seats in Transit vans or ANY other panel van eg transporter, sprinter etc circa 8 years old. (not new ones as in the topic header)
I need to have a twin seat in the back of a van to accomodate my 2 kids. I know there are the factory conversions around but theres also a number of seemingly DIY conversions as well.
What are the pro's and con's of having passengers in the back of vans and what should I be bearing mind as the kids safety is paramount obviously!? Whats involved in me putting a seat in? can I just do it? do I get it tested? how does all this work?
Thanks in advance............ Read more
If you are VAT registered and have recovered VAT on the van, be careful as it is possible that adding seats or windows can convert a van into a car, which has big implications.
preview.tinyurl.com/56ftqp
I'm thinking of buying a camper van and want to know if you can drink alcohol when not driving and stationary. Say for example i was parked in a lay-by on a public road and decided to stay the night and had a few beers. Could the police charge me with under the influencce while in charge of the vehicle? Read more
You do not need to have the keys to be charged. Lets face it you could be parked on a slope and let the hand brake off and roll down the road. I recall a BMW being parked at Gleneagles and the driver had opened the car and left the keys at reception. The police woke him up and nicked him for being in chage of the car. Regards Peter
Indeed - the offence is "being in charge"....
Browse
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Well that was a long day for the Chipsaway guy. Took car at noon and delivered it back at 8. He came from a previous job, so was not a late starter!
Every panel (inc bumpers) bar 1 door and the mirrors had some work done.
£210 + the dreaded VAT and it looks like 100% better than before. Cannot recommend the firm enough.