December 2008
I have a 2006 sri cdti (150) and it has suddenly developed a accelerating probelm.
it starts no problem and idles fine.
but when i set off , it is lacking power accelerating untill the revs slowly reach 2500.
then it picks up.
whilst idling, when you rev it slightly it doesn't want to rev smoothly and feels like it is missing a little.
even when warmed up the initial acceleration is way underpower until it seams , when the turbo kicks in???
not too up on these cdti engines!
any help or ideas would be appreciated, before i take it to the garage to be checked.
thanks
fishy
{edited subject header to remove repeated words that are automatically put in from your drop down menu choice and compulsory year and engine detail boxes} Read more
I have just got through a light on amber as there was a speed/red light camera at the junction and I was worried I may not stop in time and go slightly over the line, I figured it was less risky to go through on amber rather trying to perform an emergency stop in wet conditions (I was only doing 25mph on approach so I wasn't speeding, and I was prepaired to stop it just changed at the last possible second).
So I went through the lights on amber and speed up a bit to exist the crossing although I can't see I could have done more than 30.
Am I right in thinking this cameras only work if you cross the line when the light is on red? Is there any buffer once its on red? or does the camera trigger the second the light changes to red? I assume the amber light is the buffer in this case.
I am just getting paranoid, I have only done 10 miles and must have passed at least 8 cameras.
This is not a debate on cameras as this had been done couintless times on here, I just want to know how the red light cameras work for future reference. Thanks.
Is it possible to get 6 points from these cameras e.g if you are speeding and go through on red? or is it all counted as one offence? I have read different things on legal forums.
I don't speed not jump lights but as humans we all make mistakes and that is what I am worried about.
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Quite honestly m8 you are getting far too paranoid... there are thousands of new drivers around in the same boat as you and most of them seem to cope... we've all given you lots of advice on how to control your speed to avoid speeding (use of correct gear, etc) and how to read the road... take your time and you'll be ok, you haven't got a fast car which should make it easier...
OK you could wait two years but I've heard nothing yet from you which makes me think that you'll behave any differently then... being able to drive smoothly and within limits will only come with practice... you haven't got any points yet so take heart 'cause you must be something right!
Keep at it don't give up!
The Scenic's heater blower has stopped working when the fan is set to position 4 (maximum). It works fine on 1,2 or 3. This is the manual air-con system, not the full blown climate control.
I'm guessing it's the switch, but this being my first canbus wired car, am slightly nervous about testing it, or disconnecting anything in case I blow something up.
My plan was to disconnect the battery, unplug and remove the switch, and then perform a simple continuity test to pinpoint the fault, or eliminate the switch. I want to make extra sure, as it looks like the complete heater control panel is one piece, and I dread to think how much Renault will charge for it.
Any advice / pointers gratefully received, including which terminals on the switch should have continuity on position 4, and whether this method of testing is still safe / relevant.
Apologies for my ignorance.
Cheers as always
DP
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Found resistor and loom kit for under £50 at www.heaterblowerresistor.co.uk/renaultscenicheater...l
They also do the thermal fuses
Just wondering how many other Mazda Diesel drivers have experienced problems with their Diesel Particulate Filter. My Mazda 6 2.0TS engine blew up about 11 weeks ago and now the bill to fix it is nearly up to £9,000.
I want to know if many other drivers are experiencing their oil levels rising a little too quickly for their liking? Any others that are experiencing similar problems would help my fight against this pending bill.
To date they have fiited a new engine, new clutch, new catalatytic converter and some other bits and pieces. I've just been told today that the new engines themostat is faulty and therefore needs replacing before i get it back. By the way the car is from a lease company.
If you have already read about my plight on another thread already, please add any other info that may help.
Regards,
Nick 1969 Read more
on a side note...the car will be due a srvice in 2000 miles time, i dont intend to go to mazda because they will kick up that someones played with the set up removing the DPF, and make sure they b***** the car up. so i will be taking it to the independant garage locally who tried to regen it for me, and other thigns, had it for 3 days, but didnt charge me a penny.
they have the software to perform the ECU, so they can have the service job. Screw mazda dealerships!!!
Hi Guys,
SWMBO has complained that Daughters Corsa lights are poor and need something doing with them. So, got some Osram bulbs that state 50% brighter (please, no major discussions about luminocity etc, thanks). So, set about replacing the dipped headlight bulbs - However, could not see how the retaining clip is unclipped. I've replaced loads of these types of bulbs in many other cars but this seems a). different type and b). nearly impossible to get at. I thought I'd remove the headlight complete (as I thought I'd replace the main beam bulbs at the same time) but even that looks like you have to remove the bumper. Am i missing something here? I'm a technician of some 30 years and after half an hour gave up to leave it another day (it was raining too!!)
Any advice and guidance would be appreciated.
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Right, I have just done my wife's corsa headlamp bulbs, it is a 2005 facelift model, with the ellipsoidal lamps. You can probably get at the dip beam, but definately have to remove the lams to change the full beam or the side light bulbs. To get at the white cover, either remove the hose on the air intake behind the right side lamp, or remove the fuse cover for the left hand side one.
To remove the bumper:...
Considering buying one of these second hand.
Vauxhall indicate that cambelt changes are 40,000 miles/4 years up to 2002 for Astras.
Thereafter it says "Check with dealer".
I think the revised interval might be 60,000 miles/6 years.
Anyone know the answer? Read more
The simple reason the later Ford Zetec belt lasts for 100,000 miles 10 years is because Gates designed it, not Ford.
Hello all.
First time post so please be gentle.
Nissan X-Trail 05 plated 2.2Dci fitted with integrated dash sat nav and Nissan badged radio/cd player. Unit is currently on second radio due to first developing dry joints internally and only working when the car was warm. Car is now way out of warrany and guess what, replacement radio No.2 is now going the same way. Just static with no tuning ability until the car has warmed up whereupon normal service is resumed. I suspect that the main heating trunk behind the dash runs to the rear of the radio and warms it up but without looking...!
Does anybody know first of all how the front silver dash surround unclips as the radio mounts are hidden behind? Secondly, can anybody recommend a suitable direct replacement radio module that will interface with the steering wheel flippers (vol+/-, track up/down, source and repeat). It has been mentioned to me that the aerial preamp system on the roof may share with the sat nav system so I have to be careful.
Many years ago I did get an Alpine radio to successfully interface to a Rover 25 but as the Nissan is more complicated I would appreciate some pointers to avoid jumping in and making a mess of it. I'm not best pleased with the quality of the Nissan radios, nor the inflated price of a replacement 3rd unit.
Thanks.
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On my 2003 2.5 SVE I replaced the radio with a double din Pioneer Avic F900BT. spent a few quid (£40) on a interface setup so I can use the wired remote buttons too. If I were you I'd ditch the Nissan branded SatNav one and go aftermarket.
I've had my Mazda 6 2.0 TS2 for 11 months and everything was running great. Then suddenly on a trip home while in 6th gear I started to slow down on a hill. As I was on Cruise Control - took it off immediately and tried to throttle up - foot flat to the floor - nothing! Took it back to dealer and it produced a code for mass air flow sensor. They cleared it and I drove it happily for the next week without any further incident. One week later the exact same problem happened. Back to garage - same result - fault cleared and no problems for next few days.
Driving to work started to 'feel' the car slow to respond - like having a flat spot; then sudden power loss again, engine shudders and the DPF starts to flash. Back to garage and they clean and 'recharge' the DPF. 5 days later, on a dual-carriageway doing 70mph and car suddenly starts to slow on long hill - speed drops to 40 in 4th - really hairy with traffic running up your tail! DPF starts to flash again. Stopped and switched off for 10mins. Restarted and DPF continues to flash - pull away and car runs fine. DPF then stops flashing and goes solid. Then just before destination it goes out completely. Back to garage again and they're still getting DPF and MAF codes. They replace the MAF sensor with one they know works from another vehicle. Again car runs fine for a few days and then same problems recur. They keep the car for a week and can't get it to fault at all. They've done over 100 miles and there's no fault showing up!!! I take it away and after 35 mins it's slowing on a long steep gradient - this time right down to 20 mph in 2nd - pull over onto hard shoulder and stop for 5 mins. When I restart the engine management is on for the first time ever, the DPF is flashing and the traction control light is on. After several startups later that day these warning lights are on all the time.
It's back with the dealership again and they're thinking the ECU is faulty - I'm not so sure but I don't know what else it could be and neither do they! Furthermore, they tell me that they've contacted Mazda and they can't offer any insight into the problem. Does anyone have any idea of what's going on here. The car is only just over 18 months old, with 27k. I'd be really grateful for any thoughts.
Thanks
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All I can offer is experience. I had a Mazda6 143PS with a DPF from Oct 2007 to Oct 2011. I had read the manual so realised oil levels needed checking more frequently than most of us do.
So when it was about an inch above F I would routinely ask the lease company what we should do. The answer was usually nothing. But when I added that if anything happened to the engine due to oil levels I was not liable... they agreed an oil change. I am sure I was cautious but I didn't want to pay....
I need a new battery for my car, and have found some good prices online.
Has anyone heard of Numax batteries? Chap on the phone tells me that they are made by Varta - can anyone confirm this?
Buying a Numax will save me £20 compared with a Varta Silver (I do lose 2 yrs worth of warranty though)
Also - can anyone tell me how to post a message without selecting the Make/Model? Read more
Ok till Oct 2010 when car was written off after an accident
Anyone know of a cheap fault code reader that will cover my 2003 TDCi mondeo.
Although it has a 16pin OBDC II socket it will not read to a OBDC II reader. Suspect this is because it is pre 2004 when Euro cars were included. Car was first registered in June 2003. Mine I think uses EEC-V, or something like this.
Have found one that might work but this is Over £300, whereas the OBDC II reader that I have was only about £25.
Fault code reader or PC interface and software would be usefull.
ITman Read more
www.obd2express.co.uk/search/?q=Ford I am willing to pay more to get a VCM kit
Hi guys had problem with swirl flap rod coming off and looked on eBay for new inlet manifold and found that there is a repair kit for this problem cost me £20 delivered 15 mins job worked a treat hope this helps
eBay uk item number 141203289533 take a look honest really do work