December 2008
just been servicing the daughters Ka and wanted to tighten the handbrake cable.
Have seen that a cable runs from each rear drum and the dissapears behind the heatshield etc up to the handbrake lever am at a loss of how this adjustment is made unless is automatic
thanks in advance for your help Read more
Hi,
I'm hoping some of the knowledgeable minds on here can help me.
I have a astra g 1.8 16v which has developed a fault recently. When starting from cold the car seems to run ok (perhaps a intermittent misfire can be felt) but no eml, however after about 5 mins of driving (just as its starting to warm up) it cuts out. I won't restart unless its left for about 10mins, after which is runs rough (3 cylinders) and the eml is on. I had this diagnosed and there were a multitude of errors, MAF, knock on all 4 cylinders, lambda etc.
Replaced the MAF and the lambda sensor, changed the coil pack and had the codes cleared. The car hasn't been driven as it still cuts out but now the only code seems to P0202 injector 2 malfunction I think. I'm being told that is not the injector that is faulty but the ECU. The behaviour is consistent, it will start fine when cold and run without any error lights and seems to be running fine (again the odd vibration from the engine seems to suggest a misfire now and again) until warmed up then it goes to 3 cylinders and runs like crap.
Can anyone tell me if this sounds plausible, I don't want to spend £300 - £800 on a new ECU if that isn't the problem.
Thanks Read more
yes but their are two one for dash gauge the other for the ecu
hi good morning to all,in need of help.my car is 03 megane 1.5 diesel.all has been fine till last month.i was driving car in light traffic when it started jerking so i pulled over, it didnot cut out but displayed message injector fault.carried on driving and all was fine.got it checked out on computer diagnostics,no fault showing.went fine for two weeks when same happened again but this time it kept cutting out.got car home and looked under bonnet.son noticed air inside fuel lines round the hand primer.also primer had collapsed.so had tank and fuel lines cleaned out and replaced hand primer pump.ran fine for two days and same thing happened again,air in pipes by primer.anyone please help.first post hope explained problem well enough.cheers mick Read more
Hello,
I'm having what seems to be a similar problem with my 03 Megane 1.5 dCi. Had an incident a couple of weeks ago where it cut out at 50mph shortly after starting, tried to restart and it told me to 'Select Neutral', then it started again whilst rolling down a hill at about 55mph. The problem hadn't reared its head again until today, when the engine was cutting out and saying 'Injector Fault' on the dashboard. Managed to get it started and complete my 10 minute journey to the shopping centre, pretty sure that was achieved with the willpower of my mind alone. Went to start it to get home, and it just wouldn't start - a beep and 'Injector Fault' again. Called out the AA, they hooked their computer up to the console under the radio, didn't show any problems. He looked under the bonnet, took the cover off, fiddled with a few things to check everything was in place but everything seemed okay. Then started to check the battery and fuses, at which point he told me to try the ignition. The car started without any problems, thus making me look a bit of a knob.
AA manny said that he didn't know why the car was now starting - the only idea he had was that one of the injectors felt a bit loose so he pushed it again, but he didn't think it was a problem severe enough to prevent the car from starting. Only idea I have is that engine management would have sensed a loose injector and stopped the car from starting. Other than that, I have no clue.
Will be trying to drive again tomorrow evening, so I'll keep you posted on any developments. Let me know how things go with your case.
we have a 2.0 hdi x reg xara and it has developed a fuel pump fault. It starts then drives about 100 metres then stops. wait a few minutes and it will start then run about the same distance the stop. The garage said its the fuel pump and that it could need the whole fuel system changing. We found fillings in the fuel filter. when the car runs it runs well and same as it has for the few months we have owned it. My question is would it be worth changing the pump in the tank for a 2nd hand 1 to try and get it home. would this work. The garage also told us that if we put a new pump in and thats doesnt work it will destroy the new punp??? is this correct. Many thanks Rich Read more
derek thanks for the reply. id say the car is worth keeping its a service history tidy thing. The man at the garage pluged some sort of code reader in the car and came back with low fuel pressure. he didnt say were or what just that he wasnt sure and if he replaced 1 part and that didnt work the new part would soon be destroyed. it seemed to me he didnt really know what he was talking about or how to read his code reader correctly. we did find what looked to be copper slip in the fuel filter when we serviced the car 3 months ago so cleaned it out. wasnt really sure were it had come from but the car was still running ok. now this happened . the garage man told us if he started replacing parts the total bill could come to 2000.00 if all the fuel system needed changing which the car isnt worth. my thought was to change the in tank pump and filter and see how she goes.
SNIPQUOTE!!!!!
Which is the better overall buy to keep for say 5 years and doing 11-12k miles per year?Both around the 2002 model. Initially I wanted to get the 330d but the 325i is a lot cheaper.
325i would be £6k, 330d £8K+, both around 90-100k miles. 325i does 31mpg, 330d 41mpg. So its the extra £2.5k extra outlay for the 330d versus the fuel savings I'll get in 5 years. Anyone got a rough idea which would be cheaper to run after 5 years?
I'm more interested in the drive of the car. The 330d's torque at 410nm beats the 325i at 245nm but its still adequate (similar to my tdci but with much more power). Would a car like the 325i need revving to get decent performance (not like a type r surely? I always hear how good the bmw 6 cylinder engines are, esp the petrols. And does a 325i have a turbo? AFAIK its a NA engine, so how does it compare to a turbo charged engine with the same power? Read more
you're right again woodbines - OP wants the 2002 model. should learn to read before diving in!
Hi there, i have a 1997 mercedes sprinter luton with tail lift 310d 2.9 turbo deisel and ive worked out that the miles to gallon is 24.47! is this right as i thought they were supposed to be really economical i.e. 35 miles to the gallon. can anyone shed any light on this please, thanks
slt Read more
would like to better that though
Hi, not sure if anyone can help at all with my Megane Dynamique- I know nothing about cars I'm afraid. I've had my car for a couple of weeks with no probs. Tonight, however, when I was out in it I noticed that it felt like I was driving in too high a gear (is the best way to explain it) although I was in fourth gear doing 30. Then a warning light starting flashing so I pulled over. In the book it stated this light was a 'toxic fume filter warning light' and that I needed to consult a mechanic. When I tried starting it again the engine still felt the same, a little juddery - it's difficult to explain. Anyhow, does anyone have any idea what this could be (and is it something a warranty would cover)? Read more
hey, i've got an 05 1.4 megane. had it 2 wks and the thing has decided to play up. the toxic fume filter light keeps flashing. car is juddering, and struggling thru the gears. when the engine is idling it almost feels like the car is about to cut out and it needs more revs to keep it going. i also struggled going up hill! does it sound like i've got similar problems?!!
Hi,
Just discovered to my horror that I'd forgotten to get a new tax disc, which expired at the end of November. Now this was an honest and stupid mistake and I realise I've been lucky not to have been caught (yet). But now it's happened, what do I do, if that's not a completely stupid question? Can I just go to the post office and get my replacement (backdated to end of November) without getting into trouble - surely the PO staff aren't going to perform a citizen's arrest!? If not, what can I do?
Thanks! Read more
Felix
i had exactly these situation at the end of September - realised that the car wasn't taxed on about the 10th October, parked it on the drive, and tried to tax it.
Online renewal didn't work, because i'd missed the date (apparently), so into a post office, 5 minutes and £200 later, one tax disc, and i've not had any follow up for being two weeks late in renewing.
Worry not on my sample of one
Hi, just wondered if anyone can help.
THe main crank pulley has come of my 1.9 td - the one which is also drives the cam belt.
In order to refit the pulley I need to refit the fan/auxilary belt. However the Haynes manual as ever has no mention of this or any diagrams. A friend of mine has done this for me in the past and did say what a jolly awkward blighter it was to do!
Can anyone give me any pointers or explain the route round the pulleys.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Read more
Mate, I do not want to insult you... Pug 306 does not a fan belt.. she has electric fans.
But I do know the belt you are talking about.... and I also know the Mr Haynes gives a good description on how to replace / change belt (with a diagram of the belt layout) I sold my trusty DT a good few years ago, but I know that detail were there.
when looking at the belt from the driverside wheel arch near the front of the block there's a roller sit's on the belt, in the middle of the roller is 1 allen key bolt (6mm if my mind serves me correctly)........... lower down is another allen key bolt........... and then upside down on the bottom is another allen key bolt.... this is the adjuster for the tension.....loosen the top two, then the bottom one winds out to tighten the belt.... in the haynes manual is a diagram showing the correct routing for the belt.. I know it is there somewhere....
Laters
H
I have a 2001 VW Polo 1.4 16v,
Much as I adore driving the thing, over recent months, we've fallen out.
The engine warning (emissions) light first came on over a year ago, but at random intervals and it still drove fine. However, from September onwards, the car will occasionally stall whilst warming up (usually when in traffic thankfully!) or if it has been really cold it will take a long time to get started, up to 10mins sometimes, when it will run to a few hundred rpm, but never reach idling revs. This is particularly annoying when it occurs at a car park exit barrier!!
In terms of once it's started it still drives fine though. I've had the ECU fault codes read, then reset, then the light comes on around 30miles later. I paid 170quid last week to have the EGR valve replaced, as this was on the fault code. Within an hour, the light was back on, so I took the car back to my local specialist who'd replaced the EGR valve, the same code came up, citing the EGR valve and MAP sensor as the issue. However a friend of mine thinks from the starting symptoms it might be the ignition coils?
I am only trying to get this stuff fixed as I have a new car on order and need to get it in a fit state to pass on to somebody else!! The car runs fine once it is warm, so this light is very annoying (more so because it's a diode and can't be removed!!)
I would really appreciate any advice, as I am quite mechanically naive and feel I am just throwing money away at the moment!
Cheers
Alex Read more
Interesting.
From my understanding - the O2 sensor won't be used until the engine is partly/reasonably warm so I wouldn't think it was that causing stalling when cold. The EGR valve should intentionally be opened at idle either - again from my understanding.
Have you checked the spark plug & HT lead condition? Battery voltages OK (i.e. > 12.6)?
Checked the air filter?
Any other information? Does it have anyother symptoms?
Codes would be good!
James
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On our 2008 Ka, I found one rear brake not holding very well on the handbrake. The cable was pulling through OK when the brake lever was pulled on, and all the levers and adjusters were free, but the cable was holding the shoe lever off its stop. The cable plastic sleeve had effectively ruffled up, preventing the cable from returning fully. New cable set required and it appears they are readily available....