December 2008

tawse

Hi,

I know nothing about LPG apart from that is it cheaper than petrol/diesel, cleaner and that you need to get a good conversion.

I ask as I wondered what the pros and cons would be of converting a CRV to LPG? As I say, I know next to nothing about LPG conversions so would welcome any thoughts from those in the know.

I have read that there are loads of people offering LPG conversion and some good and some are pretty bad. I spoke with a find a 'good' LPG conversion garage.

Oh, and I have also read something about the cylinders burning out on LPG conversions so you have to add lubrication and apparently this lubrication system can be everything cheap and nasty to quite expensive and not so nasty.

The mechanic I talked to was not convinced about any of these lubricant add-ons as he felt that the engine had been designed, at great time and expense, to do a particular job and now people were basically altering the way the engine worked for peanuts as opposed to the tens of millions that car companies had spent on deisgning the engine in the first place.

Anyhow, would be interested to hear views on LPG conversions and, more specifically, whether converting a CRV makes any sense?

Thanks,


T. Read more

mick1960

I am running it dry if I do get any problems with VSR it head off and new valves and seats as a mechanic its not that daunting and I have a good engineering contact who has fitted hardened valves and seats to heads before, but he runs an old Anglia and has never bothered to do the head and says it runs perfectly ok.

I think many people over look the fact that hondas have adjustable valve clearances with many assuming that they are hydraulic and maintenece free. I always leave the exhaust clearances a couple of thou over the max setting so they chatter a little but you cant hear it in the car It may have lost a little top end horse power but it still drives smoothly and performs well.l ...

MegWump

Hi all - sorry for my first post being about a problem, but I guess problems are what often bring people here! Help or advice appreciated...

I have been to-ing and fro-ing with my garage since September, which started with the overheating light coming on in my car - no problems with coolant levels or anything else, no leaks apparent (2002, Yaris, D4D). I stated there was a known head gasket problem with this make/year and they said it was not the problem, but I needed a new water pump.

The water pump was replaced (£310) but I continued to have problems - the underlying fault was not fixed. The next suggestion was to replace the coolant sensor (£71), but I continued to have the same problem and it started to get progressively worse - the coolant level started to drop and the engine malfunction light started to come on intermittently and they eventually did diagnose a head gasket failure. This was to be repaired at £700. When the cylinder head was sent off to be remachined I had a call and was told it was cracked - a new head would be roughly £800. We agreed at this point that the coolant sensor probably didn't need replacing after all, so this would be discounted and I would face a max price of £1500.

I then receive a call telling me that they have done all the work, but now can't make the car run under it's own fuel supply and that it must have been something they did while stripping the engine. They had stripped and rebuilt it three times and couldn't find any problems, so believed it to be electrical and brought in a specialist. The specialist diagnosed a fuel pump failure and a new one would be over £700, but they offered to fit it for free. There was clearly no issue with the fuel pump when the car went into the garage, and their argument is that the ongoing overheating problems have hastened the failure, which has been exposed by the work they've done to date, but that they didn't cause the failure, therefore I should foot the bill for the part.

I am extremely uncomfortable with the idea that they wish me to pay out £700 i.e. 50% again of the agreed maximum, to replace something that was not indicated or diagnosed until this stage. I am not sure there is any evidence to say that the fuel pump would have failed in the next day, month or year, particularly had they diagnosed the original head gasket fault in a timely manner. They did not advise me against using the car, so I continued to drive it over 100 miles per day before the head gasket failure was finally diagnosed.

I have told the garage I am seeking independant advice before agreeing next steps. Any advice would be gratefully received as I would like to fully understand my position in this matter. Read more

mark999

The lubricity additive is added at the refinery to all diesel.

NowWheels

I'm looking to buy a used car for a friend who needs wheels, and the requirements point to a secondhand repmobile. Need a mile-mucher (25k-40kmiles pa) with a big covered boot (so not an estate), enough power to cope with fast A-roads as well as mways, and reasonable comfort (seats and noise and driving position, not electric toys). Must be cheap to run and reliable for long-term use, because this car will be used for unmissable appointments a long way from home (niggles aren't critical, but car-won't-go would be an expensive disaster).

A saloon would be marinally preferable to a hatchback, but they are rare on the UK market, so it'll likely be a hatchback. In Focus-sized cars hatchbacks are shorter than saloons and thus have a smaller boot, but in the next size bracket (Mondeo), that seems not to be a problem, so the disadvantages of the hatch are minor.

The options appear to be Mondeo, Vectra or Avensis, but the Avensis holds its value too well, so it's Mondeo or Vectra. Of the two, my impression from the reviews is that there's not much to choose between them either in driving quality or price, but that the Mondeo is a slightly better drive and slightly more reliable.

The ideal purchase would be youngish car which has been run in without clocking up massive mileage, and after burrowing around I find that the best deals on offer are on 07 reg Mondeo IIIs at Motorpoint. They have a choice of 1.8LXs at £5,999 or 2.0TDCI 130s at £6999, all with mileage in the low teens; both seem like real bargains (save £10k for a car which someone else has run in, but still has plenty of warranty left). The deals on Vectras don't look quite as good, and since the Mondeo seems to be a slightly better car, no reason to choose the Vectra.

So far as I can see, the 2.0 petrol offers more power with only slightly more thirst than the 1.8, so would be a better buy, but I can't find 2.0 petrols at a resaonable price. Similarly, the 115PS TDCI is slightly less thirsty than the 130PS TDCI, but I can't find and TDCI 115s at a sensible price.

So it's a choice between the 1.8 petrol or the 2.0 TDCI 130. My guess is that the TDCI will be a much nicer drive, with a litle more noise but a heck of a lot more useable power. There is little to choose between them in fuel cost: on current prices, my spreadsheet says that 30k miles in the diesel will cost £3,093, compared with £3314 in the petrol. That's barely £200 a year, but enough to pay for an extended warranty on the diesel once the manufacturers warranty runs out in 18 months time.

So the choice between the two come down to a trade-off between reliability and driveability. HJ's car-by-car breakdown at www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?md=119 lists a long catalogue of problems with the diesel (injectors, DMF, DPF, which may not be all that common but could be expensive disasters if they happened while the car was in use for business. OTOH, it seems that the extra torque of the diesel will make it a much nicer drive.

Any suggestions on how to approach the choice? Read more

scotsman4461

hi iv just bought 02 mondeo diesel after selling second hand shogun and i love it for fuel costs and comfort and mpg

telecaster

I would welcome thoughts on this engine.

My wifes car is a 1993 Citroen ZX n/a 1.9 on 234k......it still returns 55/65 mpg with regular oil changes......when is this going to break down?

Thoughts please!

It will probably break down as soon as I fix some poor "spelling", Rob Read more

oldnotbold

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Mercedes-Benz_engin...s 603 = 2996/6

vwscotty

Hi, has anyone got any ideas on how to reprogram a vauxhall combo van key? I have just changed the battery & the little red LED lights up when both buttons are pressed but it wont lock or unlock using the fob! I have tried the ignition on press buttons route to no avail!! any ideas would be much appreciated
Many thanks Scott Read more

Dynamic Dave

You could try disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery (make sure you have the stereo code first) and then trying the resync procedure again. If you've not got the code, locate the central locking fuse, and pull / replace that instead.

I take it the central locking still works with the keylock?

whoopwhoop

Windows on wifes Focus keep misting up overnight. Sometimes quite badly (i.e. running down the windscreen).

In the cold weather, they're misted up within an hour of parking.

When driving, no problem. Tried leaving aircon on and tried leaving it off - makes no difference. Carpets, seats, etc all bone dry. Nothings been spilt in there.

Ideas?

57 reg mk2. Read more

1400ted

regular this weather. Had an Astra for head job, while in yard a few days was sopping wet inside not being used. Borrowed a de-humidifier off a pal for a few days and got pints of water out of it. Must have been in the carpets and trim.
Ted

harryhammer

Both 55 reg vehicles with 1 owner, 16k miles on X Trail and 23k on Freelander.
Nissan X Trail 2.2 dci Sport
Land Rover Freelander 2.0 TD4 Adventurer

What would you choose? Read more

DP

I have to say I know two people with X-Trails, and both claim to be absolutely delighted with them (one of these people is on their second in succession).

I can't say I've heard a single one of the half dozen or so Freelander owners I've come across over the years say anything remotely similar. The one person I know now that still has one (a 2002 TD4) only keeps it because they've thrown so much money at it over the last 2 years that they can't afford to sell the thing.

What astonishes me is that the 4wd system is so problematic. If there was one part of a car you'd expect Land Rover to get right......

andy24

I have found a fantastic link to help sorting this problem out yourselfs. It would appear that yet again its another common faulty with mazda but this time they did release a service bullet for it. Follow the link

forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=106642&st...8

Read more

Giggles

Done it. Very easily done. Greased the knuckle joint under the cover and also the splined one around a foot up the shaft. Knocking gone and much more responsive steering.

Only problem to watch out for is that my steering wheel is not straight now.

richbev

i have a renault megan 1.6 16 v on a 03 plate and the cam belt has snapped. It went at low speed. Please can you give me an idea on the amount of damage this would cause and if possible a ball park figure i can expect to pay. Many thanks rich Read more

John F

Still running a VW John F?

No - traded in for a pittance at 242,000 miles - original belt still intact. Now have Focus - carefully driven auto, a mere 58,000 and 8yrs old - I will report any breakage.

Also have a 98 A6 2.8, 99,000 - well past 80,000 recommended change time. I inspected it this summer - it looks as good as new. All it has to do is to drive a couple of tiny camshafts yet it looks almost as sturdy as a BMW motorcycle drive belt. I am going to see if it outlasts me. [another 25yrs driving at around 4,000 per annum - hopefully ;-) ]
JohnPlant77

Car has no problem starting, but when accelerating it cuts out. Sometimes 4 or 5 times in a 10 mile trip. Sometimes you can feel it falter and then cut out, other times it's a pretty hard cut!

The car always starts up straight afterwards, and all the warning lights go out after a few seconds.

I have had the fault codes read and the only code logged is P3002 which is a manufacturer specific code. I googled and on some toyotas (same engine) it means HV ECU malfunction?

I tried disconnecing the MAF and running the car, but it still cuts out.

Any more help or advice warmly received. Read more

Dynamic Dave

Hi - we have a two year old Mini One with 4000 miles
he removed the oil filler cap and it looked like someone had tipped
a jar of mayo in it.


I suspect with only 4,000 miles covered in 2 years, the car is only used for short journeys? That'll be the cause of the mayo if so. The oil isn't getting hot enough to burn off any moisture. I suspect the mayo has blocked the engine breather, causing it to cut out.