September 2008
The ESP light has started lighting continuously since a few days ago on my 2005 Golf 1.6 FSI SE. The ESP Off switch is also illuminated and has no effect when pressed.
All other operation seems to be unaffected, all internal and external lights work, and I've checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes.
Has anyone got any ideas about what might be wrong or things I can try (or how much I'm likely to pay VW for fixing it)? The car's warranty expired just 1 week ago! :-(
Thanks in advance,
Tim Read more
Hello all,
I recently purchased my first car: a Hyundai Getz 1.3GSI from a franchised Renault Dealer. Unfortnately, the one thing I forgot to ask about (and I kick myself for not doing this) was the service book. After I got home I realised it was not there. I phoned the salesperson and he told me he would chase up the previous owner and find out what they'd done with it. A few days later he rung back saying that the latest owner had lost the book and so he's ordered me a new one from Hyundai.
With the car having done 15k when I bought it, it was due a service 5000 miles ago and without the old service book, I've no proof that it was serviced on time and thus I fear that the remainder of the 5 year warranty (1 year) will be gone down the drain (the dealer didn't provide any warranty either).
I've contacted Hyundai to see if they keep records of services (I hear Renault do this) but I'm yet to hear back from them.
What I wanted to ask was is there anything I can do to improve the situation? Is the lack of a service book a severe drawback in a car such that a dealer should mention if to the customer? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the service records provided proof of mileage, whereas other documents (eg an MOT certificate) don't - is this true? If so I was thinking of using that as leverage to tell the dealer that the car they sold me might not have done 15k as they had advertised and see if I can wheedle a service and warranty out of them.
Any advice?
Thanks
--Amr Read more
Hello all,
Well I'm relieved - I just phoned my local Hyundai dealer and they gave me the service history of the car:
Bought 12/2004
Serviced 12/2005 @ 5901 miles
Serviced 12/2006 @ 11000 miles
It also had an electrics repair this January by the dealer
There is one service missing which is the one for last year, so I'm going to contact the previous owner and ask them if they serviced it or not and if they can get me proof.
But I'm just glad that the car has been serviced twice and that the mileage readings match with the car's current mileage (ignoring the missing service last year). Also the dealer said that in general this would not invalidate my warranty, but he urged me to follow up with the previous owner about last year's service in case I need to have something major covered under the warranty.
Anyway, thanks for all your help and advice - hopefully I've learn't my lesson on how to not buy a car.
--Amr
After months and weeks of trawling the internet looking for a solution to this problem I have decided to make a post about it myself. I can see that I am definitely not alone and that many other Renault Clio owners are experiencing the same problem but I am really at a loss of where to go from here...
I bought my Clio second hand in December 2006. It is a 2001 1.2 16v dynamique and had done 35,000m when I bought it (for way more than it's worth, but that's a different matter!!)
So after having it for a few weeks I noticed that the orange coil light was coming on and the engine would cut out - often at junctions or roundabouts, whilst crawling through traffic or sometimes when pulling into parking spaces. Initially I put it down to the fact that this was my first car after passing my test and I perhaps hadn't quite got the hang of it and was just stalling it without realising but after a while I realised this wasn't the case. I noticed that the majority of the time the light came on when my foot was hard down on the clutch so I couldn't be stalling the engine, it had to be something else.
I was told it was an electrical fault but I found that if I revved the car a lot as soon as the light came on, eventually it would go away and I could continue driving without the light coming back on so just left it at that and carried on using the car as normal.
Sometimes it won't happen at all but other times it will happen 10 times in a 10 minute jounrey which can be seriously frustrating but I was never really in a position to afford to be able to take it to a garage and pay the prices that people were quoting on other forums and even after paying almost thousands STILL experiencing the problem.
Well, I am 6 months pregnant and a few weeks ago the car decided to cut out on my whilst doing somewhere in the 70's on the motorway which was quite frightening. I managed to turn the engine off and on again whilst hurtling along and with a lot of revving in a lower gear the light went off and I continued the journey. A few days later the same happened but as I was pulling out at a roundabout and I almost got hit in the side by another car coming from the right hand side which scared the hell out of me. After a lot of angry beeping and me in tears (yes, guys you can all have a laugh at women drivers and their hormones!) I managed to get myself off of the roundabout and home to safety.
I actually feel like I am driving around in a potential death trap but being that I am currently unemployed (I left my job before finding out that I was pregnant and have been applying left right and centre since finding out but lets face it - no one wants to employ a preggo) and therefore lacking in funds I just don't know what to do. My dad has looked at the car and although he is good with things like this I just don't think he can really do anything about it.
So basically I am hoping that someone will be able to enlighten me as to (in the most basic terms possible!) what I need to do.
Can I take it to a non Renault garage and if I do, will they be able to do what needs to be done?
What ACTUALLY needs to be done? After reviewing all of the posts I have read (there have been many) from what I can tell I need to get the throttle body cleaned (my dad tried to do this but we didn't even know where the throttle body was..!) and have the wiring loom looked at (again - we have looked on the back of the engine and can see what appears to be the black box. It is fixed tightly though and not sure how to remove it. Can see wires in light grey clips going in but no idea what to do from there). If only a Renault garage can do this does anyone have any idea of roughly how much these two things would cost as I am completely brassic, not to mention fat and exhausted and I could really do without being ripped off if I do have to go to Renault. A single pregnant woman driver - a garage's dream!
Please help me if you can, I'm sorry the post has been extremely long but I am just trying to get everything down that I need to.
I also have a problem with the fan and heating working, but I'll save that for another time...
Thanks in advance, someone please be my hero! x Read more
After months and weeks of trawling the internet looking for a solution to this problem...
[details of your nightmare car and your plight]
...someone please be my hero! x
You will probably never read this, Meggy - but THANK-YOU! Our 20 year old clio dynamique (only 50,000 on the clock) had exactly the same symptoms and your friend's fix of cleaning the throttle body worked a treat and saved us time and money that we didn't have :-)
Best wishes x
Can anyone please help I'm really fed up. I recently changed my beloved Zafira GSI for a 2002 Peugeot 307 D Turbo for economy, however within 2 days of owning it I had a problem saying unblock diesel filter, i contacted the dealer took the car back and he arranged for it to go back to peugeot who said it was something to do with FAP but sorted it all out.
This morning 3 weeks on i was driving to work when it beeps again and tells me ESP/ASR not working and then ABS fault. It doesn't seem to affect driving but the 2 lights and messages remain on when you restart the car.
Can anyone please please help I'm proper fed up!!!
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Welcome to the club. I have a 55 plate 2.0 petrol 307cc and since purchasing (feb 07) it has been back to dealer(s) many times for warranty work. Two really really niggling faults:
ABS/ESP warning lights - yes...they DO keep coming on. Took it to dealer "T" who diagnosed it as a loose battery terminal. Simple fix and hey presto... it returned 4 weeks later.
Dealer "T" had it back and diagnosed mumbo jumbo on it. It returned a few days later.
Dealer "B" had a terrific answer. HE charged me 50 quid for labour as Warranty by Peugeot doesn't cover labour costs. Fair enough, here's the 50...what was the cause? Answer? I don't know. When you switch off the ignition, the diagnostic memory disappears! So has it been fixed? Well, it doesn't come on now...and we took it for a test drive. Yes, okay, but it's an intermittent fault. Have you fixed it?
No.
So why have you charged me 50 quid to tell me what I already know, vis a vis the ABS ESP fault is intermittent and can be "cured" by switching off the ignition?
Because we don't get paid labour charges by Peugeot when we do warranty work...
This is gripping.
If it happens again, give us a call.
£50 lighter, I drove towards home. 8 miles later, the warning lights came on BingBong ABS/ESP.....
I turned around, drove back 8 miles to Dealer B and parked car beneath the roller shutter door (to block everyone and prevent them from closing...leaving the engine running so as NOT to lose memory I dragged "B" to car outside.
Fix it please, I've already paid 50 quid for the privilege.
Apart from breaking a cover on the dashboard (don't ask) whilst trying to connect his laptop... he diagnosed the fault to a faulty brake sensor, replaced it four days later and (touch wood) the problem has disappeared (since May).
SO.. be persistent. It could be the sensor by your brake pedal too.
The second annoying warranty claim?
Windows that "bounce".
Touch the door handle to open door and the window drops 10-12mm to clear the seals.
Close the door and the window returns to its rest - fully closed.
Drive the car and... the window(s) open&close, open&close, open&close. I stopped counting at 20 just a few days ago. The offside door glass bounced up and down over 20 times during a four mile journey!
I've had enough. The car is booked in for more warranty work on 18/11/08.
Or it would have been...
On Monday (10/11/08) I drove through a stretch of water-sodden country lane (about 20-30 feet long) Don't know the depth - perhaps 4 inches or so? Who knows? It was dark and no street lights.
Exiting the water, I took foot off throttle and applied brakes gently.
Engine stalled.
Never restarted.
Got a tow home and next day, arranged for tow to Dealer "T".
Phone call next day left me in shock. The air intake of my 307cc, positioned as it is, close to the road at the lower section of the radiator grille... well, let's just say, it sucks water better than a dyson and kills engines. Anyone got a spare £5000 for a new engine?
I'm going to view a car tonight that has MOT but no road tax. It is registered SORN, and has been in the owners garage for 2 months. It was bought as a runabout while the owner did a classic car restoration project and is no longer needed. This is a private sale.
If I decide to buy the car, what steps do myself & the seller need to take to get the car taxed? If I buy the car, obviously I would be willing to tax it from that day forward.
Possible scenario:
* I buy the car, the seller fills in vehicle registration document and sends it off.
* I ring up my insurers and get insured for the car.
* I ring up DVLA, or use the web site, and arrange 6 months road tax.
* I return pick up the car and drive off into the sunset.
Presumably, the seller has to fill in a SORN form and send it in to the DVLA.
Thanks
Mike
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"So how DO you manage to test a car that is on SORN"
I'd have thought the legal answer is you cannot test it on the road.
And so many drivers test drive cars they are not insured to drive either but get away because the vehicle itself shows up as insured.
To test drive:
1. It needs to be taxed.
2. Driver (not the owner) needs insurance.
Otherwise couldn't I go without insurance and test drive someone's Ferrari and have an accident? I have no personal insurance in a company car.
Hi all,
I have a Toyota Avensis, 1998 model, and have the master key which has the lock and unlock button on the key fob.
I've recently had to change the battery and the central locking only locks the car, yet doesn't unlock it. the immobilizer code in the fob is okay, as it does start the car, though the indicators keep on flicking rapidly.
Does anyone have Auto Data handy? - as i know they use to put key programming information on their. Or, does anyone know how i can programme the central locking onto the original key with a series of instructions? e.g. hold down both buttons for 15seconds, unlock and voila?
Look forward from hearing from you soon and thanks in advance.
Danny Read more
Hello yokel38
Your steps just resolved over a year long Remote UNLOCK/LOCK issue on my Avensis 1999....
Hi,I have just bought a Citroen 2.0 HDI.I would like to change the oil and filter,I have got a lot of Texaco Havoline 15w40 diesel oil which I have used without any problems in my previous 2 Rover Diesels,would this oil be ok for the Picasso? It says on the container suitable for any turbo and non turbo diesel engines.Many Thanks Andrew...
Read more
Try the application guide here:
www.commaoil.com/
I have just seen the underside of my car - lots of nasty brown rusty patches...
...I thought wheel arches and the underside of the wings all round were supposed to be rust proofed (as in black) like the rest of the vehicle is underneath?
All of the arches and wings underneath are the same colour as the rest of the car - why?
Is there an aftermarket rust prevention & re sealer available?
Is is easy to apply yourself or is it best to pay & let someone else do it? Read more
Thanks to Joe at J R Classics for an absolutely spot on A1 job on my car.
All underneath is now 'covered' (well & truly too!) and I cannot fault the service at all that I have received from this small but more than capable company.
Very happy indeed with the work done - oh sorry! Did I say that already?!
Very clean (workshop is just as immaculate too) and tidy job indeed!
Hi,
I have a 56 plate VW Passat, with the electronic handbrake (solenoid). I had parked at a petrol pump and went inside the shop. About 4 or 5 minutes later the car came crashing into the front of the petrol station, causing considerable damage. We were inside the shop for a number of minutes and someone saw the car start to roll. It would appear that due to the time delay the handbrake failed and the car rolled. The garage have the incident on CCTV and obviously its an insurance claim for me!
Has anyone heard of a similar problem?
Dave Read more
Having had a look at b6 passat I tested the electronic handbrake and decided not to go for it . Not worth the effort. But it can be helped by replacing the unwanted feature with b5 calipers and cable&handbake mechanism. There should be mounting bracket under centre console, at least , in theory if chasis is based on b5. If not it can be manufactured to fit where it should go in b5 model. Just an idea with potential to help existing and would be buyers of passat b6. Best outcome would be to have them all recalled and retrofitted with mechanical handbrake free of charge.
Hi all, I posted a while back with boost / turbo issues. After lots of help it came down to a faulty boost pressure regulator (n75) and some vacuum pipes with holes in them.
However someone suggested I got a compression test done, and after 2 compression tests the garage finally told me that Cyl 2 was misfiring. I can believe that as the car was becoming more and more jerky - so I paid out the 700 euro for them to replace the injector.
Problem is that car was driving fine for 150 miles, then all of a sudden it became very jerky. Its clearly felt upto 3000 revs, if you keep the revs above that the car drives fine, plenty of power and doesn't enter limp mode.
The car jerks so much that the EPS light come (the orange triangle thingy)
The car is 2002 passat 1.9 TDi 130bhp AWX enigne.
I know the codes were cleared from last time so I've stuck the car on vag-com again and it showed:
2 Faults Found:
18075 - Valve for Pump-Jet: Cylinder 2 (N241): Electrical Malfunction
P1667 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00
The garage don't believe that the cylinder could be faulty after 150 miles so want to charge me for 'lab time' to establish the problem. That ain't going happen so hopefully someone has an idea to the problem?
I just read another post about a judderey car - suggesting to change the fuel filter - is that something worth looking at? it was done around 12k ago so due a change anyway I guess....
thanks for your help everyone.
Richard
Moved over from Discussion and subject line tweaked. Read more
My sons Fabia had Misfire when warm MIL and EPS lights on, misfire not as bad past 3000rpm.
VCDS showed
2 Faults Found:
18075 - Valve for Pump-Jet: Cylinder 2 (N241): Electrical Malfunction
P1667 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00
Also ABS fault, low bat fault.
After reading post above inspected loom & plugs for injectors under rocker cover could see no problems, used the pointed end of circuit tester probe to close down gap on female part of connecter @ loom plugs.
This has fixed the issue without replacing anything.
May not work for every one but worth a go.
Hope this helps.
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Hi.
Just want to start by thanking everyone over the past few years who have posted their experiences in dealing with VW over this problem as it was the blueprint to my resolution. The dreaded ESP light came on continously last week so called the National VW Customer Service Dept who advised I take a diagnostic test at nearest dealer which is VW Liverpool. Copy and pasted two A4 sheets of the positive comments on this thread to let them know that I was aware of this 'known fault ' when I made a booking for diagonostic test. Took our 54 reg Golf to dealer who advised the diagnostic test would cost of £48. Left HJ articles about this topic on passenger seat so mechanics would realise I knew the solution to the underlying problem. Several hours later I was informed that they had detected an ABS fault. As the car is 9 years old with 65K, I was concerned that our Golf might not meet the VW requirements for a goodwill gesture reimbursement as previous posters have suggested. Anyhow, I was told the ESP light fix would be fully met by Volkswagon under warranty and that I would not have to pay anything towards the ABS repair or for the diagnostic test. Even though last service was independent, no service history details were required. Never received any documentation for the repair so unsure of current prevailing cost. Just elated to have escaped a big bill. Hope this helps anyone who is confronted with this scenario in the future.