September 2008

pugswhdi

I've got a 2002 307 SW HDi110 with 85k miles.

Last week and during heavy rain the engine management light (an orange coloured engine block?) flicked on twice but without any audible signal and without any message on the dashboard, it didn't reappear and I put it down to the rain. This weekend I was out on a sunny day and the same warning light came on with an audible beep and the error message "unblock diesel filter" appeared on the dashboard. We were heading home after a day out and had been cruising at 40 - 50 mph on open country roads. The car drives ok with no loss of power or rev limit. The light is now off again.

The car was bought from pug dealer as an approved used car in November 2007 and the service history is almost complete (the car was a demonstrator then sold and serviced by the dealer then sold to me). From memory the 48K service was done at 52K and a 74K Type C service was done before when I bought it in November 2007. If relevant the car does some long journeys but is mainly used to ferry the family about locally in town, the dashboard computer shows 34mpg average (better than my old volvo which did 22mpg) and average speed of 14mph!

Its booked into the dealer tomorrow as we've a family wedding to travel to this weekend but I'm not sure if the "peugeot gold" warranty covers this type of fault and want to equip myself with a bit of knowledge (if I can) before they plug it into the computer for fault code analysis.

Any help gratefully received.

Thank you in advance, Ben Read more

Screwloose

Ben

Six mins constantly above 50 was the original parameter to commence re-gen. As the ECU is capable of software updates and the times have since been "adjusted" to try and make the ridiculous system work - who knows what the deal is now....

It takes around 20 mins for a full regen cycle. The cap only affects the additive ECU and it knows if you did, or didn't, add fuel at the same time - and the exact amount in litres - as the tank sender is CAN networked.

Optimist

My wife has a keyless entry Micra.

When you turn it on the "KEY" light goes green if the fob is in the car and off when the engine starts.

It's now taken to flashing for a while after the car has started. I'm guessing the battery in the fob needs replacement. Any thoughts?

If so, do both fobs need to be done at the same time and is it something only the dealer can do?

Thanks. Read more

Optimist

Thanks. Not 100% convinced but will watch and see what happens.

jez_530i

Hi

I need some legal advice. I have been done for doing 97 in a 60 limit (nice day and little traffic so no danger!!).
Me and Mrs are insured on the car and we dont remember who was driving because we share the car throughout the day. We have had the photo but it is dark and bit blurred so no ID possible. If we write back and say we dont know who was driving, which is true, will the councel jobsworths drop it?
I already have a TS10 so dont want another 3 points and dont see why the wife should have then either if she might not have been driving. Ta!


made make/model no-specific. Read more

Pugugly

Agreed, locked. (sorry its taken time to catch up on reading this mega thread) on the grounds that the OP has received the advice he sought, so he can make a balanced and informed decision as to where it goes next.

Alanovich

My wife runs a 2004 (04) VW Touran 1.9 TDi 105 on a variable servicing programme. We bought the car brand new from our local VW dealer (after waving the drivethedeal price under his nose :-)).

It has just gone over the 50,000 mile mark, and the service indicator spanner thing has flashed up showing a service required in 400 miles. This will be its 3rd service, having had one at 18,000 and one at 38,000.

The shaper eyed amongst you will notice that it's only been 12,000 since the last one, where as the first two were at much greater intervals. We both drive the car the same way as we always have, and no one else uses it, so driving style can't be the reason for the difference.

The reason I'm suspicious is that it's only been a couple of weeks since the car was in the dealer's workshop to have its cambelt changed.

Could the dealer somehow have manipulated the service indicator to come on sooner rather than later? Seems very odd that the service has come due 8,000 miles sooner than the previous service. Hmm. Read more

Alanovich

Increasing evidence is flooding in from readers that longlife servicing is bringing an even more
premature end to engines then the manufacturers anticipated. This has led VAG to revise its
service recommendations and to generally advise 10k or annual (whichever comes first) oil and filter
changes for new models and only a longlife regime when the engine runs in near
perfect operating conditions.


Thanks, HJ. I think I'll just stick to 10,000 miles from now on and hope that no lasting damage has been incurred due to the initial long service intervals.
Jamie1975

Has anybody found a water leak through the rear doors? Ours is leaking water round the door seal and collecting in a pool in the middle of the rubber. The door trim is then soaking it up (there is a tide mark) and making the car smell.

Any advice/previous experience gratefully received.

Thanks
Jamie Read more

busdriver



Hi. I had same problem with my 1.9tdi estate.

It is caused by the seal between the outside(wet) and the inside(dry) of the door.

It was done under warranty and explained that the sealant had failed. the door is divided

by a metal plate and sealed.

Guess it is a dealer problem though its tough, you are out of warranty,

cheers busdriver

jase1

You see these all the time on fleabay for about £30 for a fully self-contained one, or about £15 for one that connects to a PC and uses free software.

The question is, do they work? Are they likely to cause damage to the car? Why do the professionals use the much more expensive kit, other than general build quality/features concerns?

I just spent £40 on a reading on my car at the local electrical specialist. That's fine, I'm paying for the guy's expertise as much as anything else, I realise that. But it would be great in future to know what the fault code is so I can do my own research before possibly taking the car in.

In my case the fault was tracked to a faulty MAF sensor (no massively severe symptoms exhibited by the car, just a general flatness of throttle response). The thought had occurred to me that if I had one of these boxes of tricks I could potentially have cleaned the MAF for nowt, or replaced myself on ebay for £40, before taking it in if that didn't work and paid the man to do the job properly (lol), rather than the £130 all in I'm paying now.

As I say, I don't begrudge the man his crust at all, just thought this would be a useful piece of kit for the toolbox, *if* it works without having to pay £200 for a proper one. Read more

buzbee

"PDF of manual . . ."

Just downloaded it; 72 pages of it!

davecooper

I have had my new Mazda 2, 1.3 TS2 since Sept 1st and it has already covered over 800 very enjoyable miles. My only issue so far is knowing how much fuel is left in the tank when the low fuel warning activates. The manual just says fill up as soon as possible but it would be nice to know how much is in reserve. The last time I filled up, the display was on one bar and I only managed to squeeze around 30 litres in. This would indicate that there was still around 13 litres (nearly 3 galls) left in the tank! Does anyone know the true figure? Read more

hugopogo

According to someone on the Mazda 2 forum... When the gauge starts blinking you have about 10 litres in reserve.

Not an ideal fuel gauge really is it?

Oh, you already found that site. Heh.

rakatak

Hi, I have a 2001 corsa with 81,000 miles petrol sxi 1.2 16v. Over the last few months it runs well then started stopping. First time it happened I was driving and the engine just stopped - lucky was not on motorway. It turned over but did not fire up!! AA came out and after an hour he looked at the fuel pump under the rear seat. Released the electrical connection and two fuel pipes. Turned the top of the pump housing and pulled it off to find one of the black pipes had come off the nipple from the pipe running top to bottom inside. He fixed it, replaced the clip and it worked well - well until 3 days later, but this time it was the top connect of the pipe that had come away! This has happened on 5 occasions now. Each time AA come out they say they have fixed it, but it still happens. The last one - friday last -AA came out fixed it, but he suggested possible back pressure or build up of pressure forcing the pipe off - ever heard of this please? I have had the car to an independent garage, who took the pump right out and checked all the pipe connects were tight enough, as AA suggested. He suggested replacing fuel filter first, and if no joy then fuel pump - possible second hand one, as this is a rare problem, and costly. My problem is, I do 1000 miles a month and everytime I start it I wait for that moment each time. My second concern is where will it happen next !! The last few occasions have been after the car has been parked for an hour or so. He suggested a fuel pump pressure check with vauxhall, then laughed and said " Ya at their prices!!". Any suggestions? help or advice? Thanks
Read more

White_wolf

I had a series of my car cutting out )06 1.2 sxi twinport) and that turned out to be the fuel pump relay... but never that the fuel lines popped off from the pump... Maybe the pump is working overtime, fault fuel pressure sensor or filter blocked??? although I doubt the last one...

mikem004

Just bought a 2001 Micra Activ. This is a special edition that has central locking, air con and NATS alarm system. Unfortunately, there is no user manual with the car.
A couple of questions.:
1) When the car is switched off and locked up, there is a red light flashing every 3 seconds, to the left of the Air Con switch. Is this the alarm? Won't the flashing light drain the battery eventually?
2) I am not a fan of alarm systems and don't need to use one. If I use normal manual key lock entry, is the alarm system not activated? If not, how do I switch NATS off?
3) Compared to my previous car, a 1995 Micra, this one has a really heavy/stiff accelerator. Is this normal for the model, or a symptom of something I need to fix.
4) When switching on first thing in the morning, the oil warning & battery warning lights come on. They immediately go out after statring up the engine. Anything to worry about.
Thanks
Mike

Read more

mikem004

>Again no. They come on as check lights to verify the bulbs are working, and go straight out once the engine is running if nothing is wrong with the charging system or oil pressure. Did your 1995 model not have these lights then?<
The oil light always used to come on, but not the battery light. The battery light started to come on first thing in the morning, I ignored it and a few months later it turned out the alternator was knackered and not charging up the battery.

Any ideas on the stiff/heavy accelerator. The 95 Micra had a light accelerator.

Just the normal new car paranoid problems...after a couple of weeks I will get accustomed to the new cars creaks and groans.
Mike

romaconstantin

I've got a polo 97 on which I cannot select any gears when I start the engine. If I stop the engine I can select very easily any gear. clutch pedal box was replaced 2 months ago so the problem is not there, the pedal is fine and the cable is OK, just checked it. is just after switching the engine on that no gears can be selected anymore. Any idea where the problem might be please, I would be very grateful. many thanks Read more

Peter D

Sit in the car hand brake on and engage 1st gear. Start the car, and establish where the real firm bite point of the clutch is. If is feels normal then I suspect a clutch problem, if the bite point it low down then I suspect a cable problem or actuator/selt adjuster. Turn OFF and sit in the car and press the clutch to the floor now slide your foot off the pedal to allow it pop up unhindered. Start the car and check gear selection. This could be a stuck auto adjuster. Regards Peter