September 2008
JUst a query on where the Rpo is on my 307? Thanks. Read more
Fabia 2001 1.4i cooling fans do not start, I changed the fans switch, and the coolant sensor is working fine, but the fans some times work property. Some times do not works for days.
I need help,
Thanks
Read more
If the fan switch has been replaced and bridging the wires at the switch makes the fans run - then the system is working, but the switch can't be getting hot enough to switch the fans on.
Failed plastic water pump impellors are very common. The fans are only needed when stationary. Making them run all the time is easy - but it only masks the true fault.
The above message persistently displays on the dash computer.
I have checked under driver seat and all cables look okay. When you move the driver seat forward as far as it goes the message sometime goes away but can return at any time. However, sometimes the message will not go away.
Is this a common fault?
Is it worth getting it checked out properly?
I had a similar problem on a Peugeot in the past and the dealer had a terrible time trying to remove the error and I don't think they ever did successfully. Read more
Can't recall ever sticking my head under a Scenic II's seat; but, if it is pretensioners, then it's usually silicone from the seat foam getting on the plugs.
After taking suitable precautions; clean the seat plugs with electrical contact cleaner.
With the light on; the SRS system will be disabled and that has insurance implications.
Hi Guys,
My 2006 06 ford focus 1.8 TDCI has started getting intermitant loss of power, erractic idle when this happens and it doesn't rev smoothly.
It will also churn out shed loads of soot when accelerating from standstill / from 35 in 4th say.
The warning light is a cog with a ! in it and it comes on when i try to use the torque example i drop below 45 in 5th then try to accelerate it will bring light on.
Any ideas what this could be? I'm thinking blown turbo pipe, split pipe or similar?
I think it started happening when i had tuning box on car which was connected to the fuel pressure switch. I have recently cleaned my maf and changed my air filter.
Cheers Read more
I had the same symptoms on mine it was an EGR valve that needed replacing, then the turbo blew and it got potentially expensive, EGR is about 3 to 400 to prelace, turbo is about 500 if you are firm with the garage
Hi there!
I seem to have a problem with my heater only blowing cold air in my Deawoo Matiz.
I have had this problem quite alot to be honest! I had my heater matrix and thermostate replaced about 9 months ago, and my head gasket was also replaced a month later!
It worked fine afterwards, but I haven't had to use the hot air since. I tried using it the other morning in my journey to work (15 mins long) and it didnt heat up at all......stone cold!
I am wondering if you may know of a reason for this that i could fix myself, and save me another expensive trip to the garage??!
Many thanks
Kelly Read more
That's great, thank you I will try this.
Hi looking at an audi A8 2004 3.0TDI. Can anyone tell me if this engine is belt or chain driven? And if belt when is the recommended service date to change?
thanks Read more
thanks.
Can anybody give me an idea on how to remove the blue cap through which the wiring loom runs through on the rear o/s passenger door of a Zafira? I have an issue with the locking and I believe it could be something to do with the wiring running through the door, but I am unable to remove this cap. Thanks Andy. Read more
Just in case anyone is wondering about how to undo that connector at the bottom of the door (as I was and I never found the answer.) I eventually discovered that you push the blue part towards the inner part of the door and pull the central white/grey plug out of the centre at the same time. Its obvious once you've done it but the Haynes manual talks about removing a clip (must be a different type of connector.) Yes the electric window on my 02 Zafira is playing up and yes the wiring is split/damaged between the pillar and the door. Soldering iron is coming out again.
The wife, baby daughter and I test drove a RAV4 SR180 yesterday around Basingstoke and up the A33, including some B-roads and a bit of supermarket manoeuvering, aka real world driving.
Came away very, very impressed, more so than any compact-ish SUV I've driven before, which includes a CR-V, X3, Freelander 2. It's one of those cars where the individual characteristics make up more than the whole - everything just gels really well. It gets the basics very right - the ride handling/compromise is great, actually the handling must be class-best, although I've yet to try a Kuga. The ride, though firm on 18" rims is sure-footed and you can feel the road which I like. Too many of these class of cars feel disconnected, but this one doesnt at all, it encourages confidence. But the best praise should go to the 2.2 diesel engine, the best four-pot diesel I've experienced. I owned a 120d but the Toyota engine seems a generation ahead. So smooth responsive and very refined, no lumpy torque delivery or snappyness from the transmission.
Interestingly the saleslady claims that the SR180 is a superior drive to the discontinued T180 as the engine has been remapped for a wider band of torque. Either way, it's as good as diesel gets right now.
This could well be my next car. Good broker discounts too. Read more
I have an Avensis T180.
I certainly don't get the published mpg. Driving in a fairly pressing-on mode, say 80ish on motorways, I average 37 mpg. On the Toyota forums, few people get the published figure, and the experience is mixed as regards bhp. My last car was 143 bhp Accord, and I'd say the T180 has comfortably more than that.
And the remap (if such it is, and there has been a fair amount of talk on the Toyota forums about that too, which people receiving differing information) may have sorted out the problems. Certainly it's a lovely engine.
Gearbox Jammed in High Gear with "D" flashing on Dash, also Jolting when changing gear, have hooked it up to a diagnostics and no Gearbox or Engine Faults found only minor sensor errors.
Can anybody help? Read more
Winter is drawing closer and the ambient overnight temps are beginning to take a tumble from the norm.
I maintain my tyre pressures at the recommended 35psi all round (when cold).
However overnight temps a couple days ago fell to 5 Deg C with an accompanying wind that made it feel like zero! When I started the car and checked the pressures I was down to 33psi all round.
So question is how cold is cold? What temp do manufacturers rate the PSI at? Should I be topping the pressures up when down to these colder temps?
Your thoughts welcome.
{dropped car make/model as this question applies to all makes/models} Read more
If you only have a comparatively short distance to drive to the garage, it doesn't make any difference.
I once asked a Michelin tyre specialist about tyre pressures and how accurate they needed to be and his response was that, providing the balance between the front and the rear tyre pressures was maintained (i.e. if one or the other was higher or lower), a slight deviation from the correct pressures was acceptable.
In fact I keep my tyre pressures about 3psi higher than the stated figure to cover driving on motorways or at higher than usual speeds; it also aids fuel consumption to a degree.
Thanks Screwloose, as always, reliable!