October 2008
A few weeks ago this fault came up along with the fault diagnosis light. This was diagnosed as a duff coil by a local free-lance garage. The coil pack, which smelled a bit burnt at one end, was replaced and the fault went away. Now the fault has been indicated again. On the screen there was a brief flash of "Catalytic converter" followed by "Anti pollution fault" and a flashing fault diagnosis light plus lots of beeps. Now when I start the car I get a brief "Anti pollution fault" and the fault light stays on but is steady - no flashes no beeps no mention of Cat. Otherwise the car behaves as it always has i.e engine shakes for a short while on starting then behaves impeccably.
I have looked this fault up on other forums and everyone seems to have their favourite solution. This seems to boil down to trying any combination of four of which only the last will work after you have forked out 400 quid for each of the previous three. I have no idea whether there is a 2 litre diesel version of this car but this one is petrol driven (fnf engine?).
The defeatist attitude is that this is a known fault with Peugeot cars but as is the Peugeot way they won't aknowledge it plus the fact that no-one seems to have much faith in Peugeot garages being any the wiser anyway. (Any recommendations for one near Worcester?)
All polite suggestions from members of this forum gratefully received.
Cheers.
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Hi,
Hope you can help this newbie!!
I am experiencing problems with my 100000mile e46 320d. Car will not start when primer pump NOT heard to run and conversely will start if pump is audible.
Been messed around by BMW a bit, firstly it was definitely air in the fuel rail, which was bled and I was charged £135 for the pleasure. Fault still apparent.
Secondly DDE warning lamp illuminated (think due to ezeestart being used to start engine as we were stuck 300 miles from home). Diagnostics this time threw up a fuel air mixture problem which was either an inlet manifold flapper valve problem of Air Mass Flow meter. On adice the AMF was changed...£335(luckily under warranty)! Fault still apparent.
I have been telling them about the primer pump not running seems to be the issue,however, they have been unable to reproduce.
I am now looking at investigating the fault myself,therefore, I was wondering if someone would be so kind as to let me know 1. Where is the primer pump relay and its number/position 2. Location of pump and accessability. 3. Where to source a pump (new/reconditioned) and if possible cost. 4. Has anyone got more info, i.e. other factors that may cause the pump not to run (sensors, pressures etc)
Any help would be much appreciated. Regards, K Read more
Don't know if this forum is still active but I am experiencing the exact same fault and I have removed the glove box and can see three green relays that are all the same, but I cannot find the 2 sitting side by side that is said to be swapped here. Wondering if anyone has any advise on where these relays are situated or is it two of the three I can see. Thanks in advance, Aaron
I have been advised by my dealer that I should consider changing the cam belt on
my 1.9tdi. It has done 39,000 miles and just been serviced ( 40,000 mile service )
I don't fancy another £300 bill. and thought that 60,000 was a reasonable time for a
cam belt change.
Any advice
Busdriver Read more
I asked several times regarding my 05GolfTDi - each time, the answer back was "computer says 80k" so that was when the belt and tensioner was changed. The '40k/4years' was explained as being general advice when specific recommendation was not available...
Been reading some of the other posts on what is looking like an increasingly common problem
Just started happening on mine. Guessing its the Input Shaft Bearing?
Growling noise just audiable in 1st and 2nd at the moment and only when moving off
Any point going to Honda?
Car owned from new, 45000 miles, has FSH and is just over 6 years old
Do I need to get this sorted pronto or can I push it on a bit? (really skint at moment)
Really gets my goat as I think a gearbox should realisitcally last the life of the car
My 27 year old VW camper has done 105000 miles and is still on original 'box!! Read more
hi everyone,
I have a 2003 honda civi 1/4 69400 miles on it. after reading this site I found out about the warrenty on gearbox. So i went to my local honda dealer they took it in, test drove it and put it up on the ramp. Came back to tell me the bearings are gone but they can't be certain until they take my gearbox apart ( 5 hour job ) if it is warrenty covered or not. They wanted me to comit to them that I would pay the repair if honda came back and said it's not covered. The cost to take it apart just to find out if it IS covered was £390.00. If it wasn't covered i'd have to pay them for taking it apart then fixing it then putting it back together. So costs looking at more than £1000.00. So basiscally honda charged me £42.00 to tell me what I already knew the bearings were gone in the gear box....
2 years ago I purchased for a substanbtial sum, a Toyota Corolla GLS W reg.It has now 72000 on the clock,myself having driven 14000 in the past 2 years.It has started in the last 12 months,to burn oil excessively(4 1/2 ltrs in approx 8 weeks). I now know from mechanics and my own research,that this is due to a Toyota design fault on these engines. I have taken the complaint to my local(UK) Toyota dealer who basically do not want to know.Toyota (quietly-doing no recall that I know of) extended the warranty to 7 yrs or 112000 miles and as my car is 8 yrs old,they will rectify the problem. I have been quoted £2000 UPWARDS for a partial replacement engine.
This is my 3rd Corolla,one I owned with no problems for 9 years,therefor,was happy to pay the extra premium for reliability ,or so I thought. I did not expect to be faced with such a bill (which is beyond my means) like this, to rectify a problem that should bnot be there in the 1st place,if it were not for Toyota's bad design.
I have been advised by Trading Standards,to refer the matter back to the dealer who I bought it from.This I intend to do.Also,I will be writing to Toyota's MD.
Has anyone faced a similar sitiation and what was the outcome?
Do I have any chance of compensation or I prefer the car to be repaired,as I am happy with it otherwise.
I do not see why I should pay the price for the mistakes of others and Toyota should take some responsibilty!!
Pleeeeaaases any help at all............
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It has got better the rattling quiter and shorter, use thicker oil 10/40 and check your oil cap? know this sounds a bit silly I replaced mine with a replacement metal one to see if it would help keep the pressure in the engine to my surprise this actually helped!
Does anyone know if 2.0d has a timing belt or chain and the changing intervals Read more
Is it true to say that a timing chain does not need to be changed?
Its not in the service schedule but does not have an unlimited life. My VR6 had a near miss with the chain at 130k miles - I was ignorant of the risk and symptoms but eventaully found bits of the sound deadening guides lodged in the timing covers before it failed.
Sod of a job with the chain at the clutch end and I laughed like anything when I read Audi's more recent V8 puts the timing chain righ up against the bulkhead (just like an old Citroen DS).
From what I read 100k miles is safe for a timing chain but after that it's anyones guess.
Hi all.
I bought my Citroen C8 2.0 HDI LX on the 1st May this year - 5 months ago.
Last week at 61,500 odd miles the cambelt snapped on the motorway. I had the car towed to a main dealer where they were 99% sure of cambelt failure but they would have to remove the engine to see for sure.
2 days and £750 later I was informed that the cambelt had indeed snapped and that, because they could not get the diesel injectors out, a new engine would have to be fitted at a cost of £5986.52
I contacted the customer complaints dept at the car retailer where I bought the vehicle and they informed me that my 3 month warranty had expired and unfortunately they would not be able to help me.
On top of that my comrehensive mechanical breakdown insurance that I was sold when I purchased my C8 would not pay for the damaged engine at all - just the first £1000 which is almost the amount I have paid to the main dealer.
Citroen recomend that the cambelt on the 2.0 HDI diesel unit is changed at 100.000 miles - a procedure that involves engine removal to complete!
I bought this vehicle in good faith and after 3,700 miles and 5 months I am faced with a huge bill now in excess of £6,000.
Has anyone else found themselves in a similair position?
Any advice or information would be much appreciated - cheers.
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Its hard to tell from looking at a cambelt if it is likely to snap.
Unless you can see some wear or damage, they all look the same.
Plus on some cars it involves removing the cover, a lazy mechanic wouldnt even consider it.
Did you get a standard citroen service for the age of the car as reccomended in the service book?
If so, did it specifically say check the cam belt?
To be fair to Citroen, the car is 9 years old.
Its not likely a 9 year old piece of rubber will still be fit for purpose.
Thinking of buying a 57 plate vectra as they are pretty cheap and will make a great car for doing the miles. Are these engines chain or belt and are they anygood? Do GM produce these engines themselves? Looking at an auto 150bhp CDTI. Has anyone had any experience with the auto boxes. Opions welcomed.
Thanks Read more
4 cylinders + diesel + auto makes for a constant drone which you need to make sure you can live with.
My last car was a Mercedes B200 CDI with CVT which I tried to live with, and failed to after 18 months. Previous A4 2.5 TDI with 6 cylinders was very quiet, and what noise there was, was pleasant. I should think the same applies to a 5-cylinder Volvo.
Current Golf TDI is a manual and although the 2.0 VW engine isn't naturally quiet it's only loud under hard acceleration, very quiet and unstressed at motorway speeds, and I have no trouble living with it.
So if you want a diesel Vectra, maybe think about a V6 auto or a 4-cylinder manual. Or a suggested above, the 2.2 petrol which ahould be quite lively in the medium-sized Vectra, given that Humph seems well satisfied with it in the Signum.
Hi all,
Wondering if anyone can advise on the following:-
I have driven several diesels in the past (Toyota, Peugot, Vauxhall) which all differed slightly in age and refinement, noise etc etc. I have recently bought a 2004 Mondeo TDCI 130 with 58,000 miles on the clock, which seems to run very nicely with plenty of power and very quiet considering it's a diesel, however as it's the first ford diesel i've owned i'm unsure if the noises i hear on this car are a problem are as they should be!!
When at low revs (idle) and slowly pulling away or manouvering, the engine sounds very clattery for a few seconds - is this normal? as the accelerator is depressed and the revs increase, the noise disappears. Whilst I expect to hear the solid "knock knock" sound of a diesel, this noise sounds like more of a clattery pinking sound to me (not a tappety noise) A couple of people have commented on how noisy it is when i've been parking up close by and it's started me thinking!! - most other diesels i've heard seem to have a fairly "solid" diesel noise when manouvering or accelerating away from standstill.
Can anyone reassure me that this is how a TDCI should be or do i need to check it out?
Thanks.
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My 2005 TDCi has always been a little noisy, although no worse than others of the same type. However, two or three weeks ago it seemed to get a little more noisy than normal. It still goes well though, and I first thought that the noise may have been due to poor quality diesel. Fill ups at different sources have proved this was not the case though, and this has led me to think about any other changes. The only point that I can think of is that I had the brake pads and discs replaced a few days before I noticed the change in noise. Could this be due to the battery having been disconnected? The garage may have done it as a matter of course due to the brake wear sensors being disconnected in the change. I have done about 700 miles since the work was done, so reading the above comments, I would have thought that any re-learning would have sorted itself out by now, but the noise persists.
Any ideas?
hi
my corsa club is a 2003 semi auto but in the last 2 weeks iv been having trouble with it and can't get it to start regularly!
it got towed to the nearest vauxhall dealership, they said it needed a new cluth actuator but then after a few days they said it was running fine, didnt need a new one after all and that i could collect it. had it for 3 days, it went fine but then the same thing happened, it refused to start.
rang vauxhall, they said to try hitting the right hand side of the gearbox with a hammer and it worked a few times but obviously i cant do this all the time.
so now it has to go back to vauhall on tues but they arent sure what is wrong with it so have to run more tests and have quoted me £850 for a new clutch actuator and labour and another £150 for a complete check or something.
does anyone know where i could buy a 2nd hand actuator if that turns out to be the problem or what exactly i should do? i live in northern ireland and no one seems to know how to fix an automatic : (
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hi also got nearly all them probz and some.my o3corsa also easitronic has f on dashboard but mine is stuck in gear, mechanic has tried hitting right side of gearbox with no luck,and fault codes of p1725 and p1726 are coming up.he says its gearbox actuator. as a newbe on here dont now if im doing this right but if anyone could advise or help in any way or know where i can recondition one of these if its poss i would be in great dept to you.he has also ruled out crankshaft sensor and says box really low on oil in box so seems to think its leaked into actuator.thanx again.
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hi ive had my peugeot 206cc for 12 weeks now with 35k miles its an 03 plate! i was driving home from work and anti polllution fault came on screen and engine management light stayed on! then a minute catalyic converter fault came in screen engine management light started flashing and my car seemed to go i idle mode! i took it to peugeot dealer who diagnosed upstream and downstream oxygen sensors and it needed 4 new spark plugs when they quoted me £555 i took it to my local garage and they were gonna charge £220 unfortuately they had to replace my catalyic converter as the old one was broken! so ive had the work done a week now on £360 later and im still getting the same faults appearing! the garage is now suggesting i get the coil pack changed at another expense at £140, im at my wits end i cant afford to keep paying out for parts that is not solving the problem, ive got 4 diagnosis codes p0131, p0170, p030 and the last code is an undocumented code p01339, i would really appreciate any help on this.
many thanks ...