October 2008
Ok - looking at 'tinkering' with a stock (car) engine for the first time ever. Have done motorbikes in the past though. Used then SEP at Kegworth and they have given a price of 300+vat to gas flow the head.
So what can specifically be done to this engine to increase the BHP and performance?
Recommendations for other established professional 'tuning services' also sought.
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Hi all,is there anyone out there who can help,
well what it is i can be driving 5 miles or even 10 miles and then the engine cuts out for no reason and its becoming more often about 6 times the other day and yesterday was the last straw as it cut out on a very busy bridge and caused a lovely line of traffic behind and not one asked if i needed a hand,anyway from what i can tell it does it when the engine warms up to normal engine temp at random,and for some reason it starts up again from anythin from 15 mins to 1 hour,ive changed the 3 cut out relays with no joy,diagnostics dosent show anything so this is my last hope.
PLEASE HELP.
swear filter tripped word removed Read more
see my report HJ back room > tech matters > select voyager dated 13 Aug 2011
it may be that, IT'S LIKELY TO BE THAT....
Driving along quite happily today at about 40mph in top gear in SHMBO's 306, when it started to run a bit hesitantly, kept driving for about another two miles to our final destination and it got gradually worse, but not enough to warrant stopping. Did not stall when we reached our destination, but ticked-over really roughly when idling in the car park. It was almost like it was running on three cylinders, and sounded "flat".
Car seemed to rev okay without missing, but the exhaust tail pipe was DEFINITELY sooty, (it has always been spotlessly clean and we have had the car from new, and it has only done 43,000 miles).
I stopped the engine and re-started after about five seconds, it now runs perfect!
Drove home (about 60 miles) with no further problems, but the exhaust pipe is definitely showing it running rich. I've done a MPG check and it's doing about 40 MPG, so does not seem to be using fuel to any massive excess at all.
Any ideas? Could the Lambda sensor have failed and it started to over-fuel and when I stopped and re-started, the ECU has adjusted itself for the faulty oxygen reading?
Answers on a postcard please! Read more
Blue injectors are indeed Bosch.
If it's running rich; then the coolant sensor reading might be worth checking.
See what the code is and take it from there.
Hi all,
Finally plucking up the courage to look around for a replacement for my sturdy Mk3 Golf Estate. Due to look at a Xsara Estate, 2.0 (110) HDi.
Does anyone know when the timing belt should be replaced. Just fancy knowing as the car is low mileage and it may come in handy when chatting about the price.
Cheers
Rich Read more
You need to be changing now forget the 100k or 90k its a piece of rubber and its 6 years old something I would not depend on.
Does anyone out there know why the temp indicator panel flashes ? It does this intermittently and I can only assume its telling me something probably its about to fail ??
Anyone Help ? Read more
On the E(A)TC module, PRESS the "OFF" and "FOOTWELL" buttons simultaneously for at least 2 seconds, then PRESS "AUTO" within 1.5 seconds.
The self-diagnosis which then starts lasts a few seconds. An animated display appears in the E(A)TC display during this time. Any faults found are displayed in the form of trouble codes. Example: First of all, "93" flashes for 2 seconds, then "42" flashes for 2 seconds - DTC 9342. If no faults are stored, then all of the segments in the display are actuated.
Diagnosis mode can be stopped at any time by PRESSING any button on the E(A)TC module.
Note: If the "DEFROST" button is pressed to end the diagnosis mode, all DTCs in the fault memory will be deleted!
[edit] Fault Codes
Self-test code B1200 / 9200
Description Internal control module fault
Action CLEAR fault memory. If the fault occurs again after a functional test, RENEW the E(A)TC module
Self-test code B1242 / 9242
Description Circuit of heater flap control
Action Go to Pinpoint Test D motor, recirculated air fault
Self-test code B1251 / 9251
Description Open circuit in interior
Action Go to Pinpoint Test M temperature sensor circuit
Self-test code B1253 / 9253
Description Short circuit in interior
Action Go to Pinpoint Test M temperature sensor circuit (short to ground)
Self-test code B1261 / 9261
Description Short circuit in sun load sensor
Action Go to Pinpoint Test L circuit (short to ground)
Self-test code B1262 / 9262
Description Circuit of defrost actuator motor
Action Go to Pinpoint Test E, faulty
Self-test code B1263 / 9263
Description Circuit of dashboard/footwell
Action Go to Pinpoint Test F actuator motor faulty
Self-test code B1342 / 9342
Description Internal control module fault
Action CLEAR fault memory. If the fault occurs again after a functional³ test, RENEW the E(A)TC module
Self-test code B1676 / 9676
Description Power supply voltage outside
Action CHECK charging system. For further tolerance information Section 414-00 If the charging system is OK, Go to Pinpoint Test J
Self-test code B2266 / A266
Description Air temperature flap positioning
Action Go to Pinpoint Test G motor circuit faulty
Self-test code B2297 / A299
Description Open circuit in the footwell outlet
Action Go to Pinpoint Test H temperature sensor circuit
Self-test code B2298 / A307
Description Short circuit in the footwell
Action Go to Pinpoint Test H outlet temperature sensor circuit(short to ground)
Self-test code A297
Description Open circuit in the dashboard
Action Go to Pinpoint Test I outlet temperature sensor circuit
Self-test code A298
Description Short in the dashboard outlet
Action Go to Pinpoint Test I temperature sensor circuit (short to ground)
Self-test code B2308 / A308
Description Interior temperature sensor blower
Action Go to Pinpoint Test N circuit faulty
Self-test code B2516 / A516
Description Heater blower control module
Action Go to Pinpoint Test K circuit faulty
I have been 'invited' and accepted, the option of attending a course as an alternative to a fixed penalty and 3 points on my clean licence. I have been driving for 25 years and was doing 36mph in a 30mph limit. Nevermind that I'm constantly checking my speedo, and look out for speed cameras on a daily basis. London (and Hampshire) are full of them.
Could anyone who has attended one of these courses, please let me know what 'fun' I'm in for during the 3 hour session?!
Also, I asked Hampshire to let me attend a course in London, but they said that wasn't possible. Has anyone been successful in being allowed to do this?
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Nope
Hello
I need a bit of help. My 2002 (52 reg) 1.8 tdci (100) looses power every now and again, always within the first half mile of a journey. It is accompanied by lots of smoke and if I try and accelerate a twittering noise similar to the waste gates you hear on rally cars (at least that?s what I think it is). This lasts for a 10-15 seconds and then disappears. Any ideas?
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Thanks for your advice, the EGR sounds a likely candidate, or least it's some where to start. The loss of power has not happened recently, but it's only a matter of time before it does.
Has anyone got any experience of the Beemer 318 tds(m41 engine).
I know it is not the fastest car on the road(boy racer days well behind me) but are these engine reliable? Also have been told they are capable of 55 plus mpg?
.
Any info app.
shouting amended Read more
I have an E34 1994 525 TD Auto which I've owned for four years; bought a Hyundai Coupe now and the Beemer's still sat on my drive due to a timewaster.
As others have said they aren't all that economical; I averaged 36, but on a 3-series you might do better as of course it's a smaller car. As for reliability; mine never let me down, and is still a joy to drive, body and interior last very well, IMO it's the last of the "real" BMW's before the styling went stupid.
In its element cruising on a motorway at 85; a very nice car, and the 6-pot engine is silky-smooth.
Hi,
Wondered if anyone can help me.... On a 106 with tapered rear wheel bearings is the bearing surface machined into the hub or is it part of the replacement kit and has to be pressed in?
If it does have to be pressed in, is this difficult / impossible to do yourself?
Thanks.
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Rear wheel bearings are easy. Remove aluminium cover on centre of drum.
Remove drum.
There is a bearing retaining circlip holding in the bearings.. best to remove with circlip pliers.
Remove oil seal. Press or drive out bearings from hub. Press in new bearings and new oil seal. Replace circlip.
Haynes is good on thos...
Hi all.
I could really use some help and/or advice from anyone who knows a bit about MG TF's. I have an 04 one in Metallic Grey. Best buy ever and I love it!! Know what you will all be thinking but she is my baby!!! I recently noticed that water was leaking from the coolant system and it was using about a tank of water per day. The fans in the car also seemed to be blowing in hot air even when they weren't on.......Took it the garage (worried to death it was going to be the usual HG probs). Thankfully they tested for that and all was ok. They have advised that I need a new thermostat although were unsure as to what would be causing the fans to blow hot air......
it isn't overheating and the temperature hasn't moved!!
Any idea, thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!
Cheers, Saff
{Subject header amended - 'help' doesn't briefly describe and summarise the question that you're asking} Read more
That's great. Thanks very much!
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My stock answer for anybody that wants more performance from any vehicle.
In order,
1 Sort the brakes
2 Suspension
3 Brakes
4 Tyres
5 Brakes
and then finally look at the engine.
Sounds odd, but think about it? If the brakes are that good you can approach any hazard faster, and if the tyres and handling are up to it it will corner faster!
Cars can be made equally fast in a straight line; its getting round the corners better that makes a care perform better!
In the words of an old road rally master, "most people use their brakes far too much and have to rely on their engine to get them back up to speed. If you can rely on your brakes and only use them when really needed then you will drive much faster!"
Not that am I supporting driving faster on roads btw, but its the same principals for track too !