October 2008
I scatched my new Mazda 2 by accidental :-(. Panel and wheel arch need some filling and paintwork done+uneven rear bumper edge damage which need some filling and paintwork to make it smooth and back to normal. I don't want to claim my insurance company. Shall I get it done by a Mazda Approved Repairer or a local bodywork? I had a quote from a local bodyshop which fixed paintwork for some insurers at around 500 quids. Is it normally much more expensive to fix it via a Mazda Approved Repairer? Does Mazda Approved Repairer normally done a better job than other bodyshops? I am worrying about invaliditing my 3 years Mazda warranty. If I don't fix it by a Mazda approved repairer, will it ruin my warranty? Is it necesary to get it done by a Mazda approved repairer? Advice please! Read more
Hi my wifes car which is a Clio 1.4 2001 auto is suffering with two intermittent problems. Firstly it can sometimes be quite hard to start taking several attempts before it will start. The second more worrying problem is that it stalls at low revs I.E. when at a junction and in gear.
The car was serviced at a Renault garage in March 08 by the previous owner. We have taken the car to two garages who have both put it on their diagnostics machines and cannot find a registered fault.
The last garage said that it could well be a dirty throttle housing, and they dismantled and cleaned it. The car was o.k. for a few weeks, but the same problem has re-occured and we would be grateful of any advice.
Many thanks
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Hi I have a clio 1.2 manual 1998 and i am getting exactly the same problem... not starting first time and cutting out because of low revs, which is not amusing! Did you resolve the problem? i would really appreciate the help because i want to get this resolved asap! thanks!
Having a recurring intermittent problem with 230K+ miler Golf. Runs well most of the time, and will then start missing and finally grind to a halt. Will usually restart then after a few minutes and be fine. Carb has been replaced with reconditioned unit about 30K miles, and all works as it should, so discounting carb icing ?
All ignition components, cap, leads, plugs recently replaced, and all appear Ok. Coil has been on for as long as I can remember, (+ 10 years, +170K miles!)
Coil is a Lucas VW/VAG OE 211 905 115 D, doing a basic test,
Primary Winding Resistance = 1.4 > 1.2 (on 0-200 ohm scale setting)
Secondary Winding Resistance = 2.96 (on 0-200K ohm)
Both of these are outside range specified by Haynes, 0.6-0.8, & 6.9-8.5 respectively (if I've got my readings right)
Is this likely to be a/the problem ?
Any other tests I can carry out?
Any advice much appreciated
Regards Read more
Thanks again for your replies, all appreciated. Unfortunately (!) car has behaved perfectly since, starts instantly even when stone cold and damp, idles beautifully at <850rpm, and has done two 150m + journeys in the last week without a hiccup!!
Coming back to the icing theory, the vacuum assisted thermostat on the air intake appears to be working OK, but could it be worn enough to be letting too much cold air in at lower temperatures, rather than the hot air off the exhaust manifold ?
With an air temp of <20degrees C should the flap be 2/3rds open even when idling ?, if so it appears to be only about 25% open, and could therefore be letting in too much cold air ?
I have a Ford Focus 1.8TDCI diesel. During the summer it starts perfectly and when the engine is warm it starts perfectly: BUT when it is a cold morning particularly if it is frosty it is very difficult to start. The only way to start it is to hold your foot fully down on the accelerator and spin the starter motor over for a long time until it starts - it's like trying to start a 40 year old diesel engine! The car has only done about 30000 miles. Glow plugs have been replaced and also cam position sensor and leads without result. It has been put on one of these hand held computer diagnostics and no problem shows up. Does anyone have any possible solutions? Read more
Power supply and current checked by garage - O.K. Car is serviced regularly (last service 2 months ago). New battery fitted January this year, starter motor seems to spin over plenty fast enough. I haven't noticed any smoke from exhaust.
Is it illegal to fit HID conversion kits to any car as a friend of mine has just been told by his insurance company that fitting HID head lights to his Mondeo st24 is illegal Read more
has ANYONE seen a headlight that is out of adjustment pointing DOWN?
Oh yes, travel on any unlit motorway and you will see quite a few cars coming past with the headlamp levelling control on its lowest setting - casting a brilliant, well-defined dip beam pattern on the road about 12 feet in front of the car. Which is doing 80mph+.
Maybe they've caught the control with their knee getting in, or have no idea such a control is fitted? Or even more likely, aren't looking that far ahead anyway...
Back on topic, aftermarket HID conversions in my experience tend to be fitted to 10 year old plus cars with fluted glass lenses covered in gravel rash - a recipe for pronounced beam diffusion at the very least.
is it possible to fit the new A4 head lights to the B7 A4
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I'm sure it'll be helpful to those looking in now, but bear in mind that the original question was asked two years ago!
Hello. I don't know anything about cars so would like to ask for some opinions.
I've been looking for a safe and cheap (to buy and run) used car in Cornwall. I have found a G reg 309 GLi Peugeot. It's done 160, 000 miles, has no tax, 12 months MOT, no PAS, 1.9 litre diesel engine. It's being sold for £300 by a guy that looks as if he could be trustable.
I took it for a test drive and it seemed solid enough (don't have any experience of driving old diesels) though it might need new brakes (I only have modern car brakes to compare it to).
The car itself was in really good condition considering its age, it's had 3 owners, original car guide and service history all there (though just stamps, no details). Engine again looked in good condition for its age. It basically didn't look like it had been abused or driven a lot.
The oil was black though. Also when the car first started there was an initial burst of smoke that lasted for one second then nothing.
I'm hoping it'll do at least 50mpg
Read the review on this site, seemed quite positive.
Does this seem an OK buy?
If so, I don't know how I should bargain. I thought I might ask him to throw in a new cambelt, cambelt end seals and valve stem seals (as honest john review recommends) for the same price. Asking for new brakes might be a bit much.
Any advice - would be grateful
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>I got a £200 MK2 Cavalier with new MOT and rust free for £125 from a garage as he just wanted rid of it.<
It does seem harsh to ask for £50 off a £300 car, but the seller will have a book margin in there somewhere, and you can ask for a share of it to see how keen he is to get rid. A few years ago I went for a late 205 1.4 advertised at £2999 at a non-franchise. I didn't know how long it had been there but I offered £2K which was accepted without much hassle. So at the £300 level you may well get away with £50 - but at the end of the day the satisfaction of screwing money out of someone may be worth more than the actual saving?
Hello,
Owned for only a few months, and trouble free thus far, albeit on lowish mileage. Pre-VVTi, so no oil consumption issues I'm aware of. Anyone had any common problems? They seem to be about the most reliable thing on the road. I'm interested in bodywork issues, as the mechanics seem to be rock solid in general. A few observations from mine:
Does not consume any fluids at all. I've heard oil leaks can develop but none so far.
book mpg is 35, but I'm getting a touch over 50- anyone else similar?
Would be interested to hear others' MOT emissions results to guage the condition of the engine. Mine: particulates <50ppm, CO Nat. 0.16%, fast 0.17%.
Dunno how long the catalytic converters last.
Would also be interested to know what tyres it was supplied with originally. I have 4 Good Years and a Michelin at the moment. I think some the GYs might be original, but not sure.
Bodywork:
I've noticed that the rear suspension springs have flaked paint and surfacerust. Does not seem to affect front, perhaps stones flung up can hit rear springs. sanded them a bit and sprayed clear laquer on.
The rear wheel arches have a strange lip at the bottom front end (3 dr version) which can fill with dirt. I've noticed a slight bubbling of paintwork there, but some work with an emery board and more clear laquer and it seems to be ok.
under the car, there is a rubber plug at the bottom of the spare wheel storage well. noticed slight surface rust around there, but easy to deal with.
The rubber headlight surrounds seem to have perished, and flap about a bit- seen it on others so I guess it's common. Bit of glue does the trick.
On the whole, very impressed. It's dull as ditchwater to drive, mind, but that's not important to me. Hopefully I can prevent it rusting and get many years out of it.
TR Read more
I bought a 1.3 3dr in 2006 metalic grey VGC at the time, it was an emergency buy as my Rover 416 had been rear ended and written off a week before holiday
it was a one owner and said he knew nothing about cars and it had missed several services, I asked about cam belt and his reply was, whats that... ...
I have recently seen these badges fixed onto the fronts of really quite new cars. Are they still available from the AA?
If not, then - why are they used? I can see the point on cars of an era, but on new ones?
Perhaps these cars all have owners of a certain era! Older drivers, in other words. Read more
Do you still have this Jamaican badge?
Unfortunately Steptoe hasn't been here since the 14 Apr 2009.
I can try emailing him for you, if you like. DD - BR Moderator.
Hi,
My Corsa has done 70,000 + miles and just recently I have noticed that the oil warning light keeps coming on. It's usually when I am turning hard around a corner in 3rd or towards the end or start of my journey. The light comes on for a couple of seconds and then off. When I fill up the oil, this doesn't happen for a good couple of months but then it will occur again until I fill up the oil again. Seems like a harmless loop at the minute but im pretty sure I shouldn't be going through so much oil. Any ideas what this could be?
Thank Read more
>>I have used 3 x 4L of oil in 15 months which equates to about10 000 miles.
Does that mean you have used 12 litres of oil in 10K?
If it has, then I misread it earlier and thought the OP meant 3 to 4 litres in 10,000 miles.
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I live in Havering Borough, any recommendation for reputable indy bodyshop? Many thks