October 2008
Hi everyone, I have had my Clio from new and until now without any problems. The car is a perfect starter from cold but this week when I have stopped and the engine is still warm it refuses to start. I have to leave the car to cool down (so there is just one bar on the temperature gauge) before it will start, could it be something that is either breaking down or a sensing problem when the engine is at operating temp. Any help or advice would be welcomed. The battery seems to be ok and all the warning lights extinguish including the immobilizer light, and the fact that it will start after cool down points in a temp direction, do you think? Read more
Hi all,
First post and used to old mechanical cars so please be gentle!!
The mother-in-law has a 98 1l Corsa that she keeps at ours for when she visits. It has two problems:
* Speedo doesn't work (think this is the sensor on the gearbox)
* Runs slightly rough at idle. When running there is intermittent hesitation which I can best describe as if trying to drive an older car with the choke out.
She has taken it to the local garage who have 'put it on the computer'. They are saying it needs the sensor and a new injector. For this they have charged her £45 and want £400 for the work.
My question is is this engine that complicated? From what I can see there are 3 injectors and they want to replace 1. Does the replaced injector have to be programmed to the car or is it a swap out? The car only cost £450 in the first place with 9 months tax!!!
Thanks in advance for your answers
Simon
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Thanks for that all,
Just been having another look.
Firstly have removed the speedo and cleaned up the connector block which was clean anyway. Replaced and all the same, i.e. everything on the dash works except the speedo. I can see the sensor on the gearbox but haven't found where to buy one just yet.
In the engine bay I've not touched the injectors or spark plugs yet as I don't have a star driver big enough to remove the rail above the plugs. However what I did notice was that the plug for the EGR valve was removed. Previously a mechanic friend of the wife had had a look and managed to plug the lambda into what I now know was the EGR socket. I had put the lambda back in place but at that time couldn't see where the other (EGR) went. Anyway that is replaced. I also then disconnected the battery for 10 minutes hoping to clear any fault codes. On reconnecting the light flashes once and then stays on, just as before.
After all that I took it for a short test drive. So far there is no hesitation. Idle is still a little lumpy but believe that is common to this engine. Fingers crossed and will go for a longer run later but hopefully that's it
Simon
Hi,I have been reading about some 2.0HDI Picassos suffering from terminals on the ECU corroding away.I would like to unplug my ECU to check mine for corrosion.Is it ok to unplug the ECU or is this a no no as it may upset the set up of things.Or are there any things I need to be aware of?? Any info would be great please.Many Thanks Andrew...
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It's French - but "Built-in Systems Interface" is one translation.
Hi
Can anyone out there elucidate on the question of which type 1 C5 diesel estates were fitted with H3 Plus suspension.
I have an LX and it certainly doesn't.
I had been under the impression that anything above an LX spec did - that is not the case, but it's proving astonishingly hard to find out which models did.
I presumed the Exclusive spec included H3+ (H3+ cars have a switchable Sports/Comfort setting, bringing in and out of circuit a set of centre spheres, a la Xantia/XM), but was told recently by an Exclusive owner he didn't have that?!
It may be only the 2.2HDI models, may be the VTR spec.
Be delighted if anyone can shed some light on this.
PS Reason for interest, I find my H3 C5 very harsh and bumpy to ride in (no, spheres not gone hard), after years of BX's, and am keen to try the versatilty of H3+. Would be most interested to learn of any other C5 owners experience on ride front, and any tips on smoothing it out!
Richard Read more
Fuel consumption on my 2.2 is averaging out at around 36mpg, which is pretty rubbish for a diesel in my opinion.
On the 2.0, I would get around 42mpg, according to both the trip computer and my sums. However, my wife would get just over 50mpg on some journeys, and a work colleague typically got 28mpg, so driving style will make a big difference.
There was a gap of around a month between me scrapping the 2.0 C5 and buying the 2.2, but even so, the engine in the 2.2 C5 feels a lot more enthusiastic. Both cars are/were manual. It might be that the automatic transmission is masking some of the oomph from the engine. The C5 never seems to feel as fast as it is.
Hi,
A red warning light is coming on at start-up and stays on for a couple of minutes, then goes off. Never seen it before. It is on the top right of the dash and looks like a 'double lined square with rounded corners' - there is a sort of 'spout' at the top in the middle.....
Sorry this is vague, but the manual is mis-printed and I haven't got a clue if it is serious or not. Any ideas?
Cheers Read more
Year of manufacturer and engine details please then this can be moved across to Technical Matters where questions of this nature are best asked.
I'll leave it here then.
We have a W 2000 Focus 1.6 zetec and think the clutch is going, does anyone have an idea of cost and is this normal after 90000 miles? Thanks. Read more
Many thanks, Eddie.
hi, i am trying to time my 1.7 dtl gm engine astra diesel and cant do it . i have tried to time it without a dti gauge is it possible ?? i had it running but it takes a real long time to start and alot of the time i am having to use jump leads because the battery goes flat through turning it over to much I really need information as to whether I use a DTI gauge.
any info would be really greatfull
cheers
shouting removed Read more
i used the vauxhall tool to comprese the rockers then slid the cam out.
i have only used dti to time the cam, i havnt timed the pump thats something i didnt no !! is it a hard job ??
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DD.
Any ideas how long one of these belt kits take to change on a 2.0 HDI 90 bhp, have been quoted 3.5 hours (@ £59 an hour) which sounds a bit long, also does £80 for the kit sound reasonable?
Cheers
CBG
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OK thanks for the info,so another £120 for the water pump on top then. Geez £400.
Better start saving.
Cheers
CBG
Hi all,
A hypothetical question, this one. Let's say you ride a large capacity motorcycle. In order to release a few more horses and make it sounds better you fit an exhaust pipe that is not stamped for road use. How does this work with insurance? Will they continue cover for a machine with a non-legal exhaust? If you don't declare it, can/ will they invalidate your insurance if you crash? I know that on MOT day most riders swap for a legal can to pass.
I'm looking to buy a bike in the near future, and ideal scenario is to find one with a legal replacement can, but these are quite rare. Most seem to be race pipes.
Thanks in advance,
Alex. Read more
Bike exhausts are a tricky thing to design, as it's a much harder job to silence a bike engine's exhaust note than it is for a car.
First, the bike exhaust is typically less than half the length of a typical car's. Second, it can usually only have one silencer box. Third, most (not all) bikes don't have a cat. Fourth, bike engines have a much higher specific power output than a car = more powerful bangs per minute, and more bangs per minute. So there's more noise to stifle with a shorter pipe AND fewer silencer options.
So a FACTORY bike silencer is going to be more restrictive, and bike engines can gain more power from a less restrictive system.
Note that less restrictive does NOT necessarily mean illegal.
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Thanks topbloke, I will let you know if it cures the problem,cheers.