October 2008
Hi
Can anyone out there elucidate on the question of which type 1 C5 diesel estates were fitted with H3 Plus suspension.
I have an LX and it certainly doesn't.
I had been under the impression that anything above an LX spec did - that is not the case, but it's proving astonishingly hard to find out which models did.
I presumed the Exclusive spec included H3+ (H3+ cars have a switchable Sports/Comfort setting, bringing in and out of circuit a set of centre spheres, a la Xantia/XM), but was told recently by an Exclusive owner he didn't have that?!
It may be only the 2.2HDI models, may be the VTR spec.
Be delighted if anyone can shed some light on this.
PS Reason for interest, I find my H3 C5 very harsh and bumpy to ride in (no, spheres not gone hard), after years of BX's, and am keen to try the versatilty of H3+. Would be most interested to learn of any other C5 owners experience on ride front, and any tips on smoothing it out!
Richard Read more
Hi,
A red warning light is coming on at start-up and stays on for a couple of minutes, then goes off. Never seen it before. It is on the top right of the dash and looks like a 'double lined square with rounded corners' - there is a sort of 'spout' at the top in the middle.....
Sorry this is vague, but the manual is mis-printed and I haven't got a clue if it is serious or not. Any ideas?
Cheers Read more
Year of manufacturer and engine details please then this can be moved across to Technical Matters where questions of this nature are best asked.
I'll leave it here then.
We have a W 2000 Focus 1.6 zetec and think the clutch is going, does anyone have an idea of cost and is this normal after 90000 miles? Thanks. Read more
Many thanks, Eddie.
hi, i am trying to time my 1.7 dtl gm engine astra diesel and cant do it . i have tried to time it without a dti gauge is it possible ?? i had it running but it takes a real long time to start and alot of the time i am having to use jump leads because the battery goes flat through turning it over to much I really need information as to whether I use a DTI gauge.
any info would be really greatfull
cheers
shouting removed Read more
i used the vauxhall tool to comprese the rockers then slid the cam out.
i have only used dti to time the cam, i havnt timed the pump thats something i didnt no !! is it a hard job ??
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Problem now fixed. You might need to refresh your browser though.
DD.
Any ideas how long one of these belt kits take to change on a 2.0 HDI 90 bhp, have been quoted 3.5 hours (@ £59 an hour) which sounds a bit long, also does £80 for the kit sound reasonable?
Cheers
CBG
Read more
OK thanks for the info,so another £120 for the water pump on top then. Geez £400.
Better start saving.
Cheers
CBG
Hi all,
A hypothetical question, this one. Let's say you ride a large capacity motorcycle. In order to release a few more horses and make it sounds better you fit an exhaust pipe that is not stamped for road use. How does this work with insurance? Will they continue cover for a machine with a non-legal exhaust? If you don't declare it, can/ will they invalidate your insurance if you crash? I know that on MOT day most riders swap for a legal can to pass.
I'm looking to buy a bike in the near future, and ideal scenario is to find one with a legal replacement can, but these are quite rare. Most seem to be race pipes.
Thanks in advance,
Alex. Read more
Bike exhausts are a tricky thing to design, as it's a much harder job to silence a bike engine's exhaust note than it is for a car.
First, the bike exhaust is typically less than half the length of a typical car's. Second, it can usually only have one silencer box. Third, most (not all) bikes don't have a cat. Fourth, bike engines have a much higher specific power output than a car = more powerful bangs per minute, and more bangs per minute. So there's more noise to stifle with a shorter pipe AND fewer silencer options.
So a FACTORY bike silencer is going to be more restrictive, and bike engines can gain more power from a less restrictive system.
Note that less restrictive does NOT necessarily mean illegal.
Dipped beam stopped working. Was working when parked up, but they would not come on when started up again after being stood for about an hour.
All other lights and electrical equipment working ok.
Fuses checked in fuse box on r/h side of dashboard, all ok.
Are there any other fuses anywhere else? ... or relays I can check?
Thank you
Trev Read more
Good call Andy, both bulbs were blown. Didn?t think that was the problem, was thinking connection problem or fuses/relay, with them both going at the same time. They are so hard to reach and take out to check.
Hardest part is changing the things!! After an hour fruitlessly trying to get the bulbs out the normal way, and just before I torched the thing, I googled ?changing KA Bulbs? ? found a ford forum with instructions on how to change them.
Its wheel off, inner wheel arch/protector off (easier than it sounds, 5 self tappers, seated in nylon bushes so they come out easy) this gives access to the rear of the headlight and all the bulbs.
10 minutes a side and job done !
Thanks Andy I owe you a pint !
Trev
!
Over a year ago I speculated that Ford may use a single turbo variable vane version of the twin turbo 2.2 engine fitted to the 407 etc though with the same power and torque figures as the twin turbo. This because the spec for this engine was quoted in the Ford / PSA tech spec published for the engine family along side the 175 bhp twin turbo and 150bhp single turbo version used in the Freelander.
It seems that this 175 bhp single variable vane turbo 2.2 is the engine used in the new Mondeo, has anyone driven both versions, the twin turbo in the 407 etc and the single turbo in the Mondeo?
With regard to the latter HJ says "Single turbo 2.2 litre 175PS diesel is outstandingly flexible. Will pull cleanly from 1,000rpm in 3rd uphill."
Read more
Why did Ford >>
I think it was partly to do with the adoption of a different approach to particulates, that being said I am not sure what system the 2.2 Mondeo / S-Max etc employs, will look into it.
Further to my previous post in August - see www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=65...5 - it's happened again. After the August post, it had a new CPS despite no fults showing, and the garage could find nothing wrong as it was running OK when it went to them.
The most recent breakdown earlier this week had slightly different symptoms, in that it started to lose power necessitating changing down to keep her going before finally cutting out. Once again, after recovery, it ran perfectly from cold and when warm. It's a perfectly good car, but if it won't run reliably it will have to go. I'm probably going to try a diagnostic at a Renault dealer, but if that doesn't fix it.....
I'm also wondering whether the increasing frequency of failure is a clue. It doesn't seem to matter whether it's cold, warm or hot.
Any new ideas?
Read more
Just an update in case it helps anyone else. Having discovered that the Megane, which is 1996 N-reg does indeed have a coil, I fitted a new one....eventually.
I bought a new one in GSF. When I went to fit it, I discovered that the fittings were different to those on the old one - the new one had plain brass LT posts, the old one had nuts attaching them to spade connectors on the ignition discharge module - this is the plate/box attached to the bulkhead that holds the coil. Thus it wouldn't fit. GSF didn't list another part number. Renault only sell a complete discharge unit/coil. I eventually bought a discharge unit from ebay from someone who was breaking a Megane - also a 1996 N-reg - which had the appropriate fitting for the new coil. On closer examination, the two discharge units had identical Renault part numbers which is very naughty as they aren't interchangeable - although as Renault themselves only sell the complete discharge unit/coil I guess it's academic - until you need a new coil!!
The insulation in the body of the old coil had started to go clear around the top, by the terminals. Whether this is any indication of failure I don't know, but the new one was solid black. Touch wood, the car has been fine since I fitted it, and idles far more evenly so I'm hopeful that it's sorted.
Browse
Fuel consumption on my 2.2 is averaging out at around 36mpg, which is pretty rubbish for a diesel in my opinion.
On the 2.0, I would get around 42mpg, according to both the trip computer and my sums. However, my wife would get just over 50mpg on some journeys, and a work colleague typically got 28mpg, so driving style will make a big difference.
There was a gap of around a month between me scrapping the 2.0 C5 and buying the 2.2, but even so, the engine in the 2.2 C5 feels a lot more enthusiastic. Both cars are/were manual. It might be that the automatic transmission is masking some of the oomph from the engine. The C5 never seems to feel as fast as it is.