March 2008
Sorry to be a bit dim. It seems that almost every day on the forum there is some reference to dual mass flywheels and their problems.
Now it seems that I possess one of these and so far it has remained in good health, I'm delighted to say.
However, out of curiosity, could I just ask a mechanically learned member to explain why they are fitted in favour of a standard flywheel and what advantages they are supposed to confer. Also, how do they physically differ, and finally why are they more prone to failure?
Thanks in advance, looking forward to learning something.
Best Rgds
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Hi all
My Mondeo is driving me slowly mad....and broke...
Bought it 2 years ago, 2004 TDCi, and was as pleased as punch with the fuel economy and power ratio...great car.
Then the problems started. I have been doing a lot of reading of posts on forums, and know this is a common problem that has driven better people than me to dispair!
It started a few months back. Started it up one day, and noticed the glowplug light was flashing. Drove it and there was only about 25% power (now know this to be the infamous "limp" mode).
Turned off the engine, and restarted, and it was all fine....forgot all about it. A few weeks later...did it again. Again, turned off and on, and problem goes away.
Meanwhile, one day notice a strong smell of raw diesel in the car. After a while this goes. Later have to take it in to get the windscreen washer pump replaced. the guy in the garage says "By the way, when we had the top of the engine off we noticed a lot of diesel laying on top of the engine. May be a good idea to get t checked out by a diesel injector specialist", and he gave me a number.
I have to admit I forgot all aobut it, and did not get it checked.
All ok for a few more weeks....but then, the flashing glowplug light and limp mode problem returns....this time turning off and on does not clear it. But sometimes it does go away for a while...then come back.
So, I read all these forums about needed injectors recoded, etc, etc, and bite the bullet and take it to a Ford dealer. They say "Oh yes, the EGR valve needs replacing. That's £350 please". So I get it done, and all is fine for a week.....then ti does it again.
As it happens, this is the same week as the clutch needs doing, and the guy doing the clutch says "Why on earth did you take it to Fords? I have all the software here, and all they will do is change the EGR valve for the sake of it! I'll find out what it is". He does work for that BBC program whistleblower, so knows his stuff.
So he hooks it up, and it is giving out codes to do with boost pressure on the turbo. P2263. He checks out the turbo, and all seems fine. It is now I mention the diesel smell to him. So he summises that it is an injector problem "I had a guy with this problem before, and it turned out to be injectors problems giving the turbo fault codes. Go and see these guys, they are diesel injector specialist."....so he gives me the number he gave me months back!
So this time I go along to this other place and book it in.
Just had a call this morning from them "Yes, we have hooked it up to our software, and it says it is a turbo problem, nothing to do with us, we only do injectors"...
ARRRGGGGGG!!!!
So I say "No, it is not a turbo problem. Go and look at it again and tell me why it has diesel on top of the engine". So the recpetionist (who is a miserable old boot) trots off to tell the guys, but she says "Well, I'll tell them, but I don't know if they can do anything".
I am at my wits end! Three places cannot fix this??
I am still waiting to hear back from the (if they are even looking at it!). What do I say if they still say it is not to do with them?
Any advice or expericance gratefully recieved!!
Is it likely to be injectors?? Can that cause the P2263 code? And the diesel leaking?
I just want to get it working so I can sell it, that is all!!
{year added to subject header. Please try taking note of the 3 separate messages asking you to do this before posting in the future as deletion is quicker than editing} Read more
Having read your post you cbviously no nothing about cars or how forums work I suggest you google this and many other sites and see the hundreds of mondeo,focus and Jaguar diesels that have stopped due to various problems,this part of the forum is for such people and maybe just maybe one of the contributors can help . I hope you are going to put a new clutch in your car while your fitting your bargain gearbox but wait a minute your mondeo does not break down I wonder what the gearbox is for.
Evening all.
All four tyres of Sisters car stabbed through the sidewall last night. Whilst ringing round for new ones, one tyre place stated that sidewall punctures ( these are punctures rather than slashes ) can be repaired but that they would have to send them away for a week.
Leaving aside the question of cost, does anyone have any experience of this proceedure that they could share with me please?
Thank you Read more
Daresay a pro-repair is likely to be better (though I'm slightly less sure of that here), and I'm sure a real pro could repair damage far beyond the scope of these things, but I've found them very useful, and anyway I don't speak Mandarin or Taiwanese which gives DIY extra appeal.
When I first saw them I was a bit unsure, and posted a query on the local furriner bulletin board. Ringing endorsements, including some people using them on motorcycle tyres, which is rather braver than I might be comfortable with....
Many cars are now providing puncture repair kit instead of a full size or temporary spare wheel.
Is it just a cost saving exercise or they do have a logic saying, it provides more luggage space?
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Because we work in the tyre and automotive trade the amount of cars that we have in that have used TyreWeld or Tyre Foam is phenominal. The end product always results in a new tyre because they are chemical based solutions that prevent patches from sticking. Even when jet washed out this is still the case.
We always sugest that a spare is the best option....
Hi,
Noticed a couple of weeks ago that my focus was gently accelerating by itself. Putting the clutch in caused revs to go to 4000rpm for 5 secs then all was OK.
Then after that when first starting off in the morning - (it has only showed this problem when cold) i get to the first junction and when the clutch goes in the revs go straight up to 4000rpm and stay there till i pull off again or get into neutral and bring the clutch up. If i put the clutch in and out the revs go up and down.
Today i felt the car pulling again by itself, put in the clutch, revs straight up to 4000 rpm and they wouldn't settle down so i switched off the ignition. Switched on the ignition again and the revs went straight back up. Turned off/on for a second time and it sorted itself out.
It only does this when cold and the clutch is not slipping and it has only done this when cold.
Any ideas before it goes into ford?
Thanks guys. Read more
Had the same problem did you change the idle control valve that solved my issue
I recently decided to try my hand at a bit of buying and selling and got a trade insurance policy for part-time traders. The first car I bought was an MGB which I'm now ready to sell. When I bought it, I asked the seller to fill in the section 9 part of the V5C (Notification of sale/transfer to the Motor trade) and send it off, and give me the rest of the log book.
I've now realised that I can't tax the vehicle as the log book isn't in my name, and am also wondering how I can now sell the car i.e. where does the new owner sign and do I have to sign it somwhere? I'm starting to think that I may have been a bit foolish in not treating it as a private sale. Any advice would be very gratefully received.
Many thanks
Ben
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Hi,
Hope you can help....
Anyone know where the flasher unit is on a Vauxhall Meriva,or where I can get a manual to find out for myself?
Rapid flashing of interior green arrow on dash when indicating left,and no indicators on nearside of car,so I'm assuming its a faulty flasher unit--unless anyone has any other suggestions?
Cheers in advance
{3 separate requests, but still failed to include them} Read more
Thanks you so much for this, although this thread is 9 years old, I've just used it to solve the indicator problem on my daughter's Meriva, many thanks to everyone!
hi i have a 2004 astra and the radio keeps turning itself on wether the key is on, off or locked up overnight, please can anyone help as i am getting fed up with jump starting it
many thanks jim Read more
i know its probably too late now but i have a plot twist for all of you, i have a 2010 astra van and the battery kept dying on me and i was having to jump it/ charge it up.. alternator is charging and battery is recently new as it was "dying" all of the time..anyway today i heard music randomly playing today and thought it was the neighbours... it happened 4/5 times througout the day for maybe 5 minutes ish at a time.. anyway i went to get something out of my van,unlocked it... all was normal... opened the drivers door and the radio came on without going near the ignition or radio, now heres the plot twist... its an aftermarket pioneer avh 290 thats been fitted in... and this is the first time ive actualy known it to come on(that being said its usualy on the bluetooth setting and not the radio as it was today, so i wouldn't hear it until sent music to play) , the van has been randomly dying for 18 months now and im glad i know where to look... and yes it is getting an inline switch on the power supply as im bored of charging it up ??
Has anyone else encountered the same problems as myself with this engine?
The car was purchased in Oct.2007,as an ex-company car with a good service history,it being only just three years old,with a mileage of 91K.
Within a couple of weeks the intercooler had to be replaced ( under the sellers warranty),as it had a hole appear in it,after which the car ran well until 3 weeks ago when it had to be rescued with a suspected cam-belt failure.
A first-class local repairer investigated and found that although the cam belt had snapped,this was as a result of the vacuum pump drive gear breaking up,the debris causing the camshaft to jam,which then overloaded the belt.
The resulting mechanical disaster has cost over £1500 to rectify.
I was told that my engine is an Italian-built example,and that 3 different companies manufacture this engine type,any of which could appear in your Vauxhall.
I strongly suspect that the metallurgical integrity of many components in my engine,and possibly that of many others of a similar pedigree,is extremely dubious.
The drive gear is the type of component that one might reasonably expect to remain sound even as the car is sent to the crusher after many,many years of service.
Any thoughts as to GM`s level of responsibility on this one? This car is now only just three and a half years old and vital components (non-service items) are literally falling apart or going into holes !!!!
Any input welcome, Steve Grove.
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(Duplicate post)
(Edit: We haven't seen Mike for four years, so I suspect we'll never know.)
The yellow service warning light accompanied by the fault code "check injection" comes up on my 53 plate Renault Megane II 1.9DCi. It usually goes off after 5 minutes of driving, What is the most likely fault - any previous experiences with this? Read more
I have exactly the same fault on my 1.4 petrol with the same lights showing,it also struggles to start then looses power, until the lights go out, renault want 60 odd quid to tell me what is wrong any ideas?
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Ha ha no offence taken - I must check my spelling befour (see what I did there??) I post. I have only just joined this forum and I look forward to reading the many different posts.
Thanks & Regards...