March 2008
Now little brother has sorted his missfire out, he complains of clutch judder.
Is a clutch change a practical DIY job?. He has a Haynes manual except it is for the older engine (not sure there is a newer one?) and it seems a fairly reasonable job.
We can get it in the air a bit and I've changed my MX5 clutch single handed. Read more
Hi all,
I really hope you can help me, I've been having a long running problem with my 1.4HDi 16V for the past few months now and nobdoy seems to have any clue what is wrong with it:
Symptoms:
I get this problem very intermittently and seemingly randomly about 2-3 times per week:
Driving along as normal, there is a very distinct and severe loss of power (undoubtedly no fuel being injected). The car stutters badly for 1-2 secs and then resumes as normal. Sometimes it happens again within a few minutes, other times it can go for days with no re-occurance of the problem.
When this happens it will often cancel cruise (when set on the motorway), and the car occasionally stalls when coming up to junctions and the clutch is depressed.
The car does it under both light and heavy acceleration, hot or cold engine.
Whatever the problem is, it is having a bizarre effect on other systems. Last week it did the usual stutter but instead of recovering as normal, it lost all turbo boost, the power steering didn't work and the rev counter needle disappeared!!! I managed to drive it home and out of interest, when i got there I turned the ignition off and back on again and everything was back to normal!!! No fault code stored.
Yesterday, I had the same brief cut in power which lasted a second or so but then the oil pressure warning light came on and the car drove as normal. A quick pull over to the side of the road to turn ignition on and off and all is well again.
No ECU lights are lit on the dash and Citroen say they cannot find any codes stored. They (randomly it seems) changed the throttle pot assy on the pedal but this has made no difference.
I'm now at my wits end with the thing - Citroen obviously have no idea what's wrong and it's so intermittent anyway they can never actually witness the problem when they test drive it.
If anybody could shed any light on this it would be most appreciated? Read more
To check if it is a major power failure you could connect a meter to the cigar lighter so you can see it while you are driving and look at it when the fault occurs.
I also was an electronics engineer for 50 years but I only just thought of that!
Hi,
Well, new to the site - found it in panic mode!
I'm in the Alps with an Estima that no-one in Austria recognises. Had it trailered home as breakdown guy did lots of scratching of head but could not repair.
Symptoms: Engine won't start at all.
Filter Ok, no water, primer button pumps and goes hard when full.
Battery OK, everthing else electrical works, engine turns OK.
Diesel in pump, but not at injectors. Diesel at solenoid cut-out valve (and the filter under it is clean).
Easy Start in air-intake makes engine fire - but won't carry on without the Easy Start.
Denso computer 89661-28580 (anyone got the pin-outs?)
I seem to have about 11.5 volts going into various pins on the ECU.
I have 9 volts to the fuel cut-off solenoid.
I have 5.4 volts at both wires on one of the 4 electonic valves on the pump that control fuel to the injectors on the pump.
Engine earth seems OK.
I did a diagnostic test - (the engine had not run since the ECU had been disconnected for a night).
I get flashes showing everything is wrong - coolent temp,intake air temp signal, alt register, turbo pressure sensor, fuel temp sensor, throttle position sensor.
To me (and this is the first diesel I've owned so I'm working in ignorance) it seems there is not the correct voltage from the ECU, so the sensors are not giving correct readings back - and the voltage out is not enough to open the solenoid or work the valves in the pump. BUT - that's just a guess thought out after a couple of nights dreaming - or more accurately nightmaring - about the problem.
Of course I also don't know if there should be a supply to the ECU that has failed as I don't know the pins.
I've put posts on Toyota forums, but after lots of suggestions Ive drawn a blank. I need a real expert to help with this one!
Hope someone can help,
Thanks,
Yodeller (well I can't really Yodel, but being in Austria I thought it sounded good!)
Read more
Hello i have a problem with the glow plug timer. Glow plug just work in just less than a second. Is their a relay or timer that can prolong the time of heating
how do i check the rear axle bushes on a 2001 fiesta and if they need to be replaced is it a hard job to do,do i need a special tool to push them out any help please
????? some spare question marks for later use Read more
anybody got any vids of this being done? Would be nice to see someone who knows their stuff ??
My new to me Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Estate ideally needs a couple of tyres, not due to tread depth but as all four are different and two are very cheap ones..... I want to work towards a set of four the same and of reasonable quality.
Two are "Extra Load" tyres and two normal, the size is 205/50x17 W rated.
I can't find anyone who can explain exactly how extra load tyres are different and why my Mondeo might need them. So far tyre dealers have told me they are "because it's an estate" "because it will do 130mph" "because its a heavy car". There is nothing I can see in the handbook re needing extra loads.
My gut feeling is they might be needed on a big 4x4 but not an ordinary car. I wonder too if they are stiffer and give a harder more noisy ride??
Thanks,
David Read more
Thanks!
Those Accelera's look scary, but I think I might check out the Yokohama. Still need to find a local supplier though, but those look much more reasonable....
I've been hunting around the classifieds quite a lot recently and i keep seeing some very strange looking adverts. The car in question is often suspiciously cheap - ie. a 2006 Focus or a 2004 Mini for £4,000. The seller always claims that his or her phone is out of action and that they are only contactable by email. Additionally, the same vehicle can appear in the classifieds in two separate adverts - in two entirely different locations.
Example is the Mini One D seen twice on this page:
tinyurl.com/6l42vg
Do i smell a scam? Read more
Hello this is an old thread but the scam continues
Check out this posting:...
Hi, looking for some help with replacing the oil in my W reg 2000 1.9 Tdi Ford Galaxy. I think it has a VW/ Audi engine, and have been given some conflicting info on what Oil I should use.
Thanks
Rob
Read more
There is - Millers XFE-PD ! ;-)
(from a big Miller's fan)
A comment by SL on the motorhome towing thread reminded me of something that has puzzled me for a while.
Is the only difference between a 2" ball and a 50mm one 0.8mm? And if so, why is this enough for the two to be incompatible? I don't doubt that they are, I've been told in no uncertain terms never to mix them up, but surely the latch on the trailer hitch would accomodate some play, to allow for wear in the ball etc.
Or are they different shapes or something? Read more
I have made some photos of my set up. I have a US style tow ball mount, but I am using a European suppled 50mm towball. This fits perfectly on to my 50mm coupling, but it is limited to US Class I rating and the ball is limited to 350KG mainly due to the 3/4" hole the ball is mounted on. I could not use a 2" ball as it simply would not fit either of the two 50mm couplings I tested.
Here is the photos promised with descriptions, showing why they are not compatible:...
My wife drove the car this morning, after a mile, the EPC light came on, the steering felt light and the car felt sluggish. After parking up for a few minutes, the engine was restarted & sounded weak. She took it to a local independant who recommended we take it to the main dealer, en route to the main dealer the light went out & the car felt normal.
The handbook says "EPC or exhaust emission system fault" The fault appears to be intermittent.
Does anybody have any ideas what it could be? Read more
Strictly speaking; the EPC light is specifically for a fault with the "fly-by-wire" electronic throttle controls. In reality; it can come on for all sorts of engine management faults.
The fact that the steering went light would suggest that checking the charge voltage is correct might be a good start. It shouldn't be in excess of 14.2 volts with no load.
hi all new to the forum, my question is as above really. i have just bought a gates cam belt kit which has a cam belt, tensioner plus another roller. i have also bought a new auxillary belt.
the car is a 306 1997 (face lift) d turbo 1.9
right im going to do this myself and have not changed a belt on one of these cars before so i thought i'd ask on here before i try if there is any specail tools i need, or if there is any info i might need while doing the belt (left hand threads, things that are a pain). any help will be much appreciated thanks :)
engine year details edited into the subject line - as per the three requests made before you posted Read more
i normally use a contitech kit, i find buypartsby.com cheapest for the cambelt kit and waterpump, easiest to phone them to order it.
by harmonic balancer do you mean the crankshaft pulley? if so yes the bolt is on quite tight, is your new engine in the car? if so i normally undo them by having someone apply the brakes then undo it. you'll need the flywheel on for the timing hole in it for the crankshaft. no real tricks for the waterpump, just undo the bolts, catch the coolant, use a scraper to remove the old gasket then refit new pump with new gasket and tighten up.
never had the joy of working on one with air conditioning, and never actually seen one where the aircon works.
chris
Browse
Yes, mf I probably was unlucky. Quite a bit of dismantling to change them in-situ. Didn't use any special tools though. Did use a smear of hylomar on the outside to seal the one I changed to the gearbox casing. You're right that the Ford seals come pre-lubricated.
JS