March 2008
My wife drove the car this morning, after a mile, the EPC light came on, the steering felt light and the car felt sluggish. After parking up for a few minutes, the engine was restarted & sounded weak. She took it to a local independant who recommended we take it to the main dealer, en route to the main dealer the light went out & the car felt normal.
The handbook says "EPC or exhaust emission system fault" The fault appears to be intermittent.
Does anybody have any ideas what it could be? Read more
hi all new to the forum, my question is as above really. i have just bought a gates cam belt kit which has a cam belt, tensioner plus another roller. i have also bought a new auxillary belt.
the car is a 306 1997 (face lift) d turbo 1.9
right im going to do this myself and have not changed a belt on one of these cars before so i thought i'd ask on here before i try if there is any specail tools i need, or if there is any info i might need while doing the belt (left hand threads, things that are a pain). any help will be much appreciated thanks :)
engine year details edited into the subject line - as per the three requests made before you posted Read more
i normally use a contitech kit, i find buypartsby.com cheapest for the cambelt kit and waterpump, easiest to phone them to order it.
by harmonic balancer do you mean the crankshaft pulley? if so yes the bolt is on quite tight, is your new engine in the car? if so i normally undo them by having someone apply the brakes then undo it. you'll need the flywheel on for the timing hole in it for the crankshaft. no real tricks for the waterpump, just undo the bolts, catch the coolant, use a scraper to remove the old gasket then refit new pump with new gasket and tighten up.
never had the joy of working on one with air conditioning, and never actually seen one where the aircon works.
chris
I have the pleasure of servicing this at the weekend my question is does this have a timing belt?
Is the belt interval 40,000mls if fitted, it's done 49,700mls?
Any probs with this engine?
{guessing year is 1998. could well be 1997?} Read more
Haynes make use of one of their fantastic DIY tools.
I had spotted the above tool on that exact website earlier and can NOT beleive the price of it, how can that be justified?? I could go and buy some scrap metal, and a power drill, and the bolts etc etc and make my own for MUCH less than that. Shocking
I was going to see if I could pick up one of these at my local Camberley autos:
www.toolsinstock.com/index.php?act=viewProd&produc...6
says it's for the cams but can't see why you wouldnt be able to use on the crank pulley also.
Anyway, heading out, cheers for the help guys. Glad I didnt try that starter motor method :) hehe
Kev
(Can't be a Multispace II because production did not begin until late 2007, so have changed the title to Multispace. HJ)
Some may remember my story from 12 months ago: I went out to buy a Legacy Tourer and came home with a Berlingo.
Twelve months later, here are my experiences and opinions.
Image.
Let's face it, it is an issue and to be honest SWMBO had huge reservations, seeing the car as the preserve of eccentrics/the very old/ the very odd. One day after I bought the car I was approached by a couple in a supermarket carpark. they had identified a Berlingo as ticking all their boxes for a second car (no.1 was the 3 Series they got out of I presumed) but ......image. However, as on here, most comments are favourable and I have now come to have a certain pride in owning one. It is a little like being in a club - not an exclusive one, more a sort of 'in the know' affair.
Driving.
The pedals. Smaller and closer together than I was used to and caused one or two scary moments in the first few weeks. Now I've acclimatised and it is no longer an issue. The striking thing when driving is of course, the seating position. More upright and higher. The view is just better than in a conventional motor. I have the 1.6 HDI and performance is (relatively speaking) fine. To date 48-50 mpg. Corners: steady as she goes with a little body roll. Gear change is on the vague side but somehow a rifle bolt shift would not really suit the car!
Reliability.
Aah....the big question. would it fall apart and die? Well, it has been a curate's egg. On the one hand, so far it has been back for two warranty jobs. A rear door handle assembly and a broken rocker arm cover. Neither problem caused me much inconvenience and both jobs were sorted by the dealer quite quickly and efficiently. On the other hand it has been reliable and does its' job well. Overall, I am satisfied rather than either delighted or disappointed.
Practicality.
This is where it holds all the aces. We have a house in France and the amount of stuff we take is swallowed by the various lockers and the huge boot. the modubox has proved useful as well. My son is 15, 6ft 4 and growing, so he played a big part in eliminating alternatives 12 months ago. The upright seating allows him to sit comfortably in the Berlingo. my daughter, oh the fickleness of youth, changed her opinion on the car 100% when she saw the twin DVD players that were the sweetener Citroen were offering at the time.
Overall, I just know that at the price, Citroen/Peugeot don't have any competition.
The Dealer.
Mmm. They bent over backwards to get the sale, I did get a deal I was not expecting and compared to other citroen dealers I know they worked very hard to get me the car I wanted (metallic and aircon) in a very short space of time.
But. £192 for a first service? Compared to say, £80 for my Toyota?
Suffice to say I shall be taking the car to a dealer in Brittany this summer for its 25K.
To sum up: I am very pleased. yes, I would buy another.
Do I still read about the Legacy I could have bought?
Of course. Read more
The French model XTR had better clearance, a sump guard and a limited slip diff. The UK model didn't - it just looked a bit different.
Hi folks - I've got a central locking issue with my Mk1 (1999) 1.8i Focus Zetec - here are the symptoms :
Remote locking/deadlocking - locks all doors except driver's door, then all automatically unlock immediately.
Remote unlocking (all doors locked) - unlocks all doors except driver's door.
Manual locking and unlocking (driver's side) - locks and unlocks all doors as normal.
Manual deadlocking (driver's side) locks all doors, however driver's door can be opened from inside and unlocks all others (this shouldn't be possible)
Manual locking (passenger side) - locks all doors except driver's door, then all automatically unlock immediately.
Manual unlocking (passenger side) - unlocks all doors except driver's door.
Any thoughts ?
Basically - anything done manually via a key in the driver's door seems to make things work as normal, whereas anything done remotely or via the passenger door does not seem to have an effect on the driver's door lock, so does this point towards the driver's door lock itself as the problem ?
Or is it something to do with the central locking in the driver's door that's not operating the driver's door lock as a result of operating the passenger door or remote ?
I've sprayed a little WD40 into the driver's lock and worked it but that hasn't helped.
Would taking the door trim off and lubricating the lock and mechanism thoroughly help or does it need replacing ?
NB. A guy from the Ford garage commented a while back that he thought it might be something to do with the passenger door, but he didn't do as much testing as I've done above and I can't see how that would explain all my observations either. Thought it was worth mentioning though.
Any comments appreciated.
Read more
I had the exact same problem,but not all the time. Really intermittent and would change from not working to working after a short drive and vice versa. I tired the WD40 and that cured it for a few weeks.
21 months ago I bought a Note SVE. I like the car apart from the tyres and the price of spare parts. Last year, a puncture resulted in my having to get a new tye, there's only one manufacturer - Continental. The tyre cost ca. £120. This year, a vandalised rear wiper arm cost me £58.20 not including fitting. Today during its 2nd year service, the garage told me the front tyres were nearly worn out at only 8600 miles. I've never had such poor tyre life in 43 years of motoring. This is my first Nissan and I'm not impressed.
BT Read more
Thats all pounding up and down the A12 ....75 miles a day. No traffic light grand prix starts etc. I've moved on from the Note to a Yaris now....and back to the flippin Conti's.
Back to the harsh jiggly ride.....soon as they are worn out on go the Falkens. I think the sidewalls are reinforced? Totally unsuitable for the 'rutted poughed field effect' of rural 'efficks' / British roads....
03 Reg Partner Van 1.9 Can anyone please tell me when the cam belt should be changed on a Peugeot Partner Van. Sorry to ask this as I know the info should be in the service manual but we purchased from Auction and did not get the previous service history. Thanks
See your last post :-( Read more
Thanks Screwloose!
I have a 1999 328i.
Recently the engine has not been running smoothly. Most of the obvious things have been changed including Air mass sensor, coils & spark plugs. The car now drives ok but I can sense a slight regular shudder, almost like a regular misfire....this is so slight you might miss it altogether..however, I know it is there.
I have put the car on a diagnostic computer and all parts of the car are running within normal parameters and there are no fault codes. However, the computer did show that the front Lambda sensors appeared to be "lazy"...these were changing voltage within normal limits but slowly.....instead of spiking up and down, they were going up quickly and then going back down slowly giving a curve more like a whales back...the cycle was 2-3 seconds.
Would this indicate that the front sensors are on their way out and would this give me the slight "misfire" or judder that I can feel?
Note that the car is otherwise running normally, fuel consumption is normal, acceleration is ok etc.
engine, year details inserted in subject line - a closely guarded secret that we require these Read more
I cant actually remember the code but it deffinately said either AIR SENSOR or AIR MASS. I will be putting it back on the diagnostice machine tomorrow. I actually had the cyclone valve replaced last year so shouldnt be that.
When I accelerate/rev from idle between 800-2000 I can hear the engine trying to suck. The car then gurgles a little.
Recently in traffic whilst my wife was driving 50mph-60mph the car started to judder loose power and either the EML or ENGINE light came on. Turning the ignition off and restarting seemed to work. I then drove it in drive and there seemed to be a hesitation when accelerating from low revs. The vehicle is automatic with steptronic so I drive it in sports or manual trying to keep the revs up.
The car doesnt stutter when idling and still easily gets inot 3 figures mph. However there is a slight hesitation constantly when driving. There are know problems with gearchange.
Just want to get it sorted ASAP but dont want to replace parts that dont need changing.
I have read on another website that it could be a vacume leak before the throttle body, it states that this is causing an airleak after the MAF. Have tried to check but cant see anything obvious.
OK, I have a car i am lending to 2 people (friends of friends) for 6 months while they are over here working for the summer.
I cant and don't want to add them to my insurance (trade policy and very expensive to add names; let alone any increase if they were to have an accident)
I do have a couple of cars I am willing to let them use (not too worried about what state I get them back in).
Any ideas on best way to arrange insurance for them? Including, should I register the car int their name etc?
All helpful opinions welcome and other opinions wont hurt!
typo in header corrected Read more
From the replies it's obviously still an issue!
A crew called Hertford advertise insurance for Aus & US licence holders, and originally said they would cover, but a couple of weeks later when rellies arrived they'd changed their minds. Possibly they will still do Aus licences, but they said their underwriters had had so many claims from US licence holders theat they had stopped.
I eventually got cover from duinsure.com (down under insurance) but had to transfer my spare car into her name for the duration - sent forms off to DVLC etc. Couldn't find any other way - tried a couple of local brokers and got nowhere (might be different in London; I am in rural Wiltshire!)
My US rellies said they weren't surprised - gettihng a US licence is virtually a non-problem, I gather.
SQ
Hi All
My Pug keeps randomly stopping and my engine light is on so I bought a code ready. the codes it came out with are:
P0200: Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0380: Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction.
Could someone please explain in more detail what these codes mean? And what I can do about them, you know, what simple things I can check before taking it down to the local garage? Please explain things really simply - I'm not that technically minded ;0)
Many Thanks
Tad Read more
Tad
The fuel would have been getting hot [and thin] with all that idling and no airflow over the fuel cooler.
Taken with that P0200 code; [and I'll bet you've got P1112 and P1138 in there too] the likeliest cause [of many] is a cracked injector leaking back excessively and dropping the fuel-rail pressure. Might be the pump; but I've never seen that code come up before.
It'll probably start when it's cooled; get the garage to check the rail pressure; the injection variance figures and, above all, do a comparative leak-off test on the injectors.
Strictly speaking; the EPC light is specifically for a fault with the "fly-by-wire" electronic throttle controls. In reality; it can come on for all sorts of engine management faults.
The fact that the steering went light would suggest that checking the charge voltage is correct might be a good start. It shouldn't be in excess of 14.2 volts with no load.