March 2008

Richie_green

Hello

Practicality question - considering a Celica on 51 plate. Can they get a car seat in the rear?

Rgds

Richard Read more

maximol83

Thanks so much for your reply. I was beginning to loose hope and thought the Celica really would have to go! Renewed hope!

k341sjr

hello all i am after some advice on my problem with my temperature gauge.when the ignition is switched on the gauge does move up showing it is getting power,but after driving a few miles the heaters become hot but the temp gauge doesnt move up at all,i have recently changed the water pump and timing belt and the coolant resevoir is full to the maximum mark, i was wondering if anyone knows if it could be any thing to do with the e.t.c sensor? any advice would be much appreciated thanx for your help adam Read more

Dynamic Dave

remove cambelt? isn t thermostat on front face of head held on by two E12
torx bolts?


Thinking about it, you may well be right. I was thinking of the 1.6 engine.

Anyway, via google, I found this for the X18XE1 / Z18XE engines:

tinyurl.com/5685hl (links to www.astra-g-anleitungen.de)

And also this:-

www.astraownersclub.com/vb/showthread.php?t=135213




Jag2004

Car (33,000 miles) just 4 years old failed to start. No previous problems. After 10 days Ford dealer claimed it was a faulty solenoid valve in fuel injection pump and replaced the pump. Then said that the engine management module had burnt out and needed replacing.
How can this happen in a normally running engine or during diagnostic tests?
Read more

Screwloose


The only burned ECUs that I've ever seen were down to jump-starts going wrong. ECUs use very little power, so they are usually on fairly light fuses.

Very few ECUs need replacing unless they are water or vibration damaged; [Vauxhalls] most, up until recently, are repairable.

flatcap

Hi

My Almera has a whining noise when the engine is running which increases with engine speed, its there when idling and when Im driving. I just bought the car a week ago. Its not a high pitched whine, more like the noise you get on an electrically powered tube train or something similar. There doesnt appear to be any loss of performance and the car drives ok otherwise.

The garage I bought it from says its just the type of car but I dont believe that is the case!

There is also a smell, quite like the smell you get when its overheating or a burnt clutch that I seem to get now and again, quite strong at times.

Also, when the car is idling once the engine has warmed up there is a clattering noise from around the back of the engine, not so noticable outside the car but noticeable in the cabin.

What could be causing these issues? I have a full warrantly on the car.


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flatcap

Finally sorted out the clatter from the engine bay, turned out not to be loose trim but the bonnet rest rubbers, adjusted them up the way and voila no clatter!

flatcap

MikeTorque

Has anyone used Millers Diesel Power Sport 4 ?
If so what differences have you noticed ?
Which brand of diesel are you using with this product ? Read more

El Hacko

thanks GB

geran

Hi, this is my first post on this site and would appreciate any info you can give, I have read a lot of problems regarding the 307 HDI fap problem but not found much relating to the 206.

My missus drives a 2005 206 1.6 HDI and in the last couple of years have a numerous warnings come up on the dash all have been sorted under warranty, the latest to appear was UNBLOCK DIESEL FILTER (I now know through this site 100% more info about this system, than I did on Friday and more than the sales man at the time new) there has been no previous message of ANTI POLLUTION ADDITIVE LOW I would just like to get the facts right before I take it any further. This car has only just done 20,000 miles and from what info I have been able to obtain the FAP system is to be serviced @ 50,000 now the dealer has told the wife it needs additive topping up and a forced regeneration doing, at a cost to me of £140.00. Now by admission the car does not do many long trips and is not filled to the neck every time it gets low on fuel, so the top and bottom of my query is can a dealer ask me to pay for this work while it is still under warranty and is way below the 50,000 mile service cycle. (is it correct as I have read, that taking it on a long with a bit of right foot down, it will do a forced regeneration this way)

Thanks in advance



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geran

Hey, good to no your motor is OK, the missus was bought through Peugeot's Passport scheme and it finishes in end of Sep, but with all the problems I have had with this one it has put me right of Peugeot's, and I've bought them for well over 10yrs.

Geran

jane_roach

My Puma (2000 - 1.7) has recently developed a problem with apparent loss of power. I have so far spent £200 trying to get it sorted but unfortunately it persists.

While driving, there seems to be a loss of power, it actually feels like someone is applying the brakes. It only lasts for a few seconds and then the car appears to surge forward. I have tried looking at the rev counter when it does it and revs does not seem to drop. The problem is totally arbitrary ie it can happen when the engine is cold or hot, in low gear or in high gear and in different weather conditions. I have had new leads and spark plugs fitted and it has been hooked up to Ford diagnostics and shows no error codes. The guys at my local Ford garage have contacted Ford UK but have been told this isn't a known problem. Unfortunately in their 5 mile test drives the car has never replicated the problem. I am not imagining it as someone else (not a mechanic) has experienced it while driving.

I am now at my wits end as I have got to get it sorted as I believe it is potentially dangerous. The car in all other respects is fine. It has done just under 42k.

I would be really grateful if you have got any ideas as to what I should do next as I am stymied.

{post reformatted to remove all the '>' symbols and year/engine added to the subject header as per the 3 separate requests that seem to hide themselves whenever someone composes their question!} Read more

Cty

It could be a failing HEGO (oxygen sensor) which is a part of the emmissions system. Ford's FDS will not throw up a fault code, having an emmissions test will pinpoint this problem.
Another symptom is a very sooty tailpipe and poor fuel economy.

Has the car been running with the aircon on recently as this seems to take a hefty chunk of power from the engine- feels like someone is pulling/releasing the handbrake.

runboy

What would be described as a luxury small these days? BMW 1 series? Merc A class?

Somthing with plenty of comfots, auto box etc Read more

mustangman

In my view there are things more important than leather seats, voice control, climate control etc. ie: all the usual toys you would get on a "luxury" car such as a BMW / MB / Lexus et al. Many of these items can be tacked onto more humble cars, but is this luxury?

IMHO such items as low road / tyre noise, a compliant ride under all loadings, good crosswind stability, auto transmission (maybe), decent performance as well as low engine noise through high overall gearing are important to give that refined ride in a luxury car.

A small car is at a disadvantage with all these items, which is what can make travelling in one a less than pleasant experience.

What would the optimum car be under these criteria ?

GazKaz

Hi all

My 02 plate 1.8 vectra (Z18XE engine) takes an absolute age to warm up, and the top hose on the rad gets warm after only a couple of mins from cold, so this leads me to think the thermostat is stuck open.

The thermostat housing is held on by what I believe are 2 torx bolts, my question is: How do you get to the bottom one? Accesss is very limited for both of them but especially the bottom one!

Anyone changed this before?

Thanks

GazKaz Read more

Chris M

No, the reply came too late for me. The car was due a cambelt change that I didn't have time to do myself, so I got my local indy to do both jobs at the same time.

wrightyl

Hi,

Last weekend I decided to give my car an oil change but before doing so i noticed that the oil under the oil cap was a cream colour. However, i proceeded to clean the oil cap, flush the engine and then change the oil. I checked the oil again today having done roughly 150 miles and once again the oil cap has the cream colour oil on it. The car has only done 25,000 miles, it has been serviced according to the warranty schedule at a Vauxhall dealers, and i don't drive it hard. I can only think that the head gasket is on its way out? If this is the case is that likely to be covered under warranty?

If anyone can advise

Cheers Read more

Flycog

Seems a common problem with Corsa's. On servicing the wifes 1.2 Corsa the rocker cover and vacuum pipes required a good clean out due to the mayonase and does 50 miles a day.
regards