Now little brother has sorted his missfire out, he complains of clutch judder.
Is a clutch change a practical DIY job?. He has a Haynes manual except it is for the older engine (not sure there is a newer one?) and it seems a fairly reasonable job.
We can get it in the air a bit and I've changed my MX5 clutch single handed.
Edited by Pugugly on 14/03/2008 at 21:03
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Yes use axle stands take your time & while your at it change the oil.
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Thanks for that. I've got some good hefty axle stands. Won't be changing the oil unless I have to as it was only changed a month ago ;)
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Gear box oil, not engine oil.
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Ah yes, was going to anyway as a quick scan of the book made me think it had to be drained anyway. Thinking on, seeing as no propshaft has to be take out, it should stay oil-tight. It probably is well overdue a change, so will do.
ta,
Martin
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If it's anything like the last similar clutch I did (1.1 OHV Fiesta of the '80s) - and I think it is - then you have to pull the drive shafts out of the gearbox - there's not a flange on the output shafts. The gearbox drains when you pull out the drive shafts. To be honest a gear oil change is probably not a bad idea anyway.
JS
Edited by John S on 16/03/2008 at 12:38
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Thanks John, I've not looked at it yet, but that makes sense. It's got a lot of miles on it and I suspect the oil is the original stuff in there.
Waiting for the weather to warm up a touch first ;)
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It is also worth taking the fly wheel off just to check the rear crank shaft oil seal if leaking a two minute job to replace, while your at it!
Yes pull those drive shafts out you can spin the box and leave the box hanging to the side while you take out the clutch but much better practise to remove in my opinion!
Good luck..
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Lots of gearbox oil will remain when the shafts are pulled out. If you can, undo the detent bolt at the front of the engine below the filler plug (look after the plunger and spring that come out) and drain the oil that way.
I don't know how accessible the detents are on these, but on Escort/Fiestas you have to take the gearbox cross-member off first, which is do-able if you support the gearbox and engine i.e. via lift.
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Ah, yes, that's right! Remove the reverse gear detent cover before the drive shafts and most of the gear oil drains. Forgot that. Engine support needs to come off to get the box out any, does it not? Lots of miles? - maybe replace the drive shaft oil seals too while the 'box is out?
JS
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Engine support needs to come off to get the box out any does it not?
Haynes say for Escort/Fiesta Mk4s that it's OK kept on, as I say I don't know the Ka. I do agree it does help to take it off as probably the anti-roll bar is in the way.
Oil seals - well I've got an HCS engine that's 18 years old with no obvious leak (changed the clutch last year and no contamination), the 'box seals only went after the diff. wrecked them. I think rotary seal technology has progressed a lot in recent decades and most cars do not need any replacing in their lifetime.
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Many thanks to you all. Points noted in big felt tip pen and we're going to have a quick look underneath one day next week and make sure all the obscure parts are on hand before starting.
p.s. If anyone wants a brilliant pictorial of replacing an MX5 MK1 clutch then.... www.miata.net/garage/clutch2.html
Edited by Pugugly on 16/03/2008 at 22:49
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Quick question if I may.....
Is the "special tool" for separating the driveshaft from the diff/gearbox really required or is it possible by hand??
thanks,
Martin
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Don't remember using one. IIRC a large screwdriver (or two) used as a lever was enough. As for drive shaft oil seals - well, one of mine leaked afterwards!
JS
Edited by John S on 23/03/2008 at 13:19
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You've probably been unlucky John and I doubt many garage would think of replacing them. Although the seals are cheap, I would sooner leave them in as the bores are easily scored especially if you haven't got the right tool, (i.e. using screwdriver) and it's tricky to get them in square as there's nothing to push them up against, on the nearside at least.
The seals come from Ford with a scattering of lithium grease around the lips. Applying some pre-assembly could help prevent them failing.
On an unrelated matter if the Haynes doesn't tell you to, you should replace the copper clips at the ends of the driveshafts. Ford dealerships sell them for pennies.
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Thanks again both.
Copper clips gone onto his list of bits required before starting.
The hoped for preliminary lift to have a shufty beforehand was delayed by the cold white stuff that I refused to lay on!. Shame, a wasted weekend really.
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Damn. system rejected my edit as I took too long ;(
Glance a real Ford manual shows that crossmember has to come off with some engine mounts and "special tool" i.e. Fencepost and strap used to support engine from above.
ta.
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Yes, mf I probably was unlucky. Quite a bit of dismantling to change them in-situ. Didn't use any special tools though. Did use a smear of hylomar on the outside to seal the one I changed to the gearbox casing. You're right that the Ford seals come pre-lubricated.
JS
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