October 2008
Light comes on (wil not turn off at switch) intermittently , stays on until ignition turn off.When ignition is turned on at first switch turns on/off light!.Skoda dealer Feels it is not important!. Read more
my battery went dead so i bought a recon alternator i put it on it turned over with a bit of help i tested the battery and it was chargeing ok then it said alternator faulty over chargeing after about 5 mins the car died and a bad smell came from the alternator now it wont charge is there a relay on the car anywhere that u have to change as well as the alternator thanx for your help Read more
Thanks Screwloose.
Can any body tell me how to change engine oil filter on Kia Carens 2Lt .The filter is under the brake master cylinder? Read more
I find it easier reaching the oilfilter from the side. To do this you must work on the car while the engine is cold. First lift the cover of the white plastic radioator expansion tank. then unbolt the 4 bolts, and remove the tank. Then you can easily reach the filter by reaching it through the space where the expansion tank was. Let me caution you that the space is very narrow and it might be a bit difficult for a big person with a big hand and arm. Good luck.
My learner daughter has bought a Pug 206 and has had a loss of power and a dashboard light come on. The light is the top right one on the dash, an engine symbol with what looks like a letter K, with bottom right arm of the K has an arrow on it. (It doesn't have a handbook so I'm not sure what it is) The first time it happened she says the power dropped right of and she had to stop. After Green Flag attended it started fine. I've just been out with her and I saw it come on twice, but without the power loss, once going round a corner rather slowly, once in traffic. I'm not entirely sure it's not her being in too high a gear and driving too slowly and thus approaching a stall. The car has been recently serviced and it was checked for error codes, but none showed up. I've driven the car and never seen it happen, nor has my wife. Any suggestions? Could it just be bad gear choice or does that light suggest something else? Read more
Thanks Screwloose, that is, as ever, very useful. I'll talk to another garage tomorrow.
Hi,
My Saxo has failed it's MoT on Co2 emissions and I need to change the Lambda sensor, anyone know how accessible it is on a Saxo and do I need a special tool?
Many thanx. Read more
Sorry, my theory is illogical even based on my assumptions: if there was too much O2 and O2 measures it then it would stay low...
hi, i have mondeo 02 tddi, airbag light flashing 2 flashes then 4 flashes and so on, any ideas i' be very greatfull, Regards colin. Read more
I have this same problem with my 05 plate mondeo.
Can anybody tell me exactly where the front crash sensor is located ?
Expert help please - What "repair" should be done next?
Current Faults : Anti-Pollution and ESP lights - reduced power and limited to 2,700 rpm
Current Codes : P0243, P1148, P1425 and U1209
These were determined by Peugeot who also cleared faults and counters
Background Information :-
Engine Control - EDC15C2-1X
Work done prior to above: Eloys replenished, FAP steam cleaned, wheel sensor replaced
Initial Codes : 0243, 0571, 1147, 1435, 1442, 1446, 1447, 5236 and D208 and 41?
These were determined by an independant garage using KTU (I think) diagnostics
Thanks in advance for any useful help Read more
hi i am new to this forum, can i ask for your help/oppinion on my 307 sw (2 ltr hdi)
i keep shutting down into limp home mode with anti pollution faults and esp faults.i have plugged it into lexia 3 (pp2000) and it keeps comming up with esp cannot cummunicate with ecu (pp2000 unknown and ecu is being referenced) it looks to have lost comms somewhere, i have checked all fuses, abs ecu has been sent away to be tested and has come back with no faults, rear a.b.s sensors have been changed and still no joy.It will not even allow me to do peramiter check (live data), it allows me to read faults and just says unable to respond with ecu (i click into to info) and it is all happening when car is stationary), just to add aswell car did have a bump on front passenger side wheel and damaged wishbone (which has been replaced and i have re calibrated steering angle sensor)...
I tow a caravan with my deisel XTrail and when accelerating hard with a heavy load on the car suddenly loses power-as if the fuel flow is being strangled. No mis-fires, no juddering, just a power constriction. Lift the foot of the accelerator and re-apply more gently and the problem goes. Can be a bit embarrasing if you are half way past a truck on the motorway and suddenly have to drop back 'cos your powers gone. Nissan main dealer failed to find problem at last service (no surprise there) and it does seem to be getting progressively worse. Any ideas? Read more
Thanks for the suggestion.
The technician says they've checked it and it's fine....
Part way through replacing the corroded sump pan on my partners car.
All going well so far and oh, you do not have to remove and refit the exhaust manifold/cat as Haynes say. Good job as the studs look like they would all need drilling out and replacing which would be a right kerfuffle.
Question I have is that the sump is well and truly glued to the engine block. All the bolts and 4 nuts have been undone. I have tried prising gently with a screwdriver and it may just be a case of being patient and carrying on.
Does anyone, who has done this job, have any other suggestions as to how best get the sump off?
Thanks in advance
Read more
Success!!
Job done with a few supplementary notes to the Haynes procedure as I decided not to remove the exhaust:
- Remove the RH wingliner and drive belt shield.
- The sump will come away from the block by inserting a flat screwdriver carefully at the front and back of the engine and then pushing in a putty knife or scraper and carefully tap it along each side as far as it will go. Trying again with the screwdriver front and back it should then come away.
- With the exhaust in situ it is very tight to get the sump out. Removing the wingliner and belt shield will give more sideways clearance. You need to rock the car in gear to turn the engine, if necessary, to make sure all the pistons are half way up the bores so that the crankshaft counterweights are all horizontal. This is also important to give you the necessary clearance. The the oil pick up pipe will need to be removed before the sump will come off. Undo the two 10mm bolts holding it on and it will come off (no gasket, just a seal)
- Fitting the new sump is the reverse of this and it's best to have a dry fitting run to minimize catching sealant on any of the internal engine parts.
Hi, Does anyone know why my A4 has started to show the AIrbag warning light on the dash board? Really rather annoying! Read more
sam
I'd leave airbags to a professional - doesn't have to be a dealer.
They're explosives and too many have died already fiddling with them - without following the correct disarming procedure.
No seat pretensioners on these - they're built into the reels; so the only seat wiring is to the sidebags and the botty sensor.
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