October 2008
Hi
I have just replaced discs and pads all round and there is a warning light now lit on the dashboard and the message 'CHECK BRAKE PADS' flashes on the dash when I turn on the ignition. The symbol is an orange circle with 3 orange dashes either side of the circle, second one in from the left on the top row of warning lights.
This one isn't shown in my handbook so not sure what it is or what I have done wrong with the brakes. Brakes all work great.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!! Read more
Hi
I have a Galaxy 1.9 TDi (115bhp) PD and replaced the MAF sensor in June this year. After a couple of weeks it started to cut out and, turning the ignition off and back on again seemed to reset it and power was restored. The MAF has now gone completely and I have had to buy a replacement.
Has anyone else suffered similar problems and, if so, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Dave Read more
Dave
Well, looks like the glow-plug's gone on your Eberspacher - but that's not important now...
17965 - exactly as expected... Overboost.
17552 - MAF sensor circuit; open circuit. [You had it disconnected, so no surprise there...]
17978 - Immobilizer active...? Ignore for now.
Right; forget the MAF - it was never that; as said, they can't cause cutting out and, anyway, this isn't cutting out, it's dropping to limp-home - caused by overboost being detected under load.
17965 is very common. Prime cause; coked-up turbo vanes. Remove and have cleaned.
Other causes:- [On a PD] faulty MAP sensor; faulty turbo control ["N75"] solenoid; leaking/crushed vacuum hoses to or from that solenoid; other things too.
Check the flimsy vacuum hoses - every inch; make sure the battery isn't sitting on them. Measure the resistance of the solenoid and check it's feed voltage and the pulse duty cycle if you have the means. Check the vacuum level reaching the turbo's actuator. Actuate the turbo with a Mityvac pump and see if it snaps back when the vac is released.
hi guys. im gonna be buying a 54 reg golf tomorrow, and it would be great if was chain, but its done 70k and if its cambelt then i will need to change it, so if you could help, it would be greats, cheers everyone. ;-)
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Just one or two simple point to make, due to the nature of modern engines it is near impossible to carry out a timing belt change in an hour or two. Since it appears that when the chap that was designing this part, he must have been high on something and was not thinking straight.
From what I know, in the K11 Micra it is advised that the head is removed as is the sump. Poor design or what. If a micra as done nearly 60K miles and is only worth £1000-1600, does one scrap the car or have the job done???.
Why can?t designers make things simple. I believe the old Vauxhall Cavalier was an example of this. Hydraulic tappet adjustment (rockers and followers could be replaced without having to remove the Camshaft), if the timing belt or anything in that area broke, then if would not damage anything since I believe it was a safe type engine. I believe that?s what they call them.
If the clutch was slipping you could replace the plate without removing the gearbox.
Getting to the oil filter, spark plugs all very easy.
The simple days. !!!
2.0 D4D model.
Does anyone know, if the air con can be bypassed ?
My aircon compressor is "rattling" on idle, but if I turn on the aircon the "rattling" stops.
My mechanic tells me that its something to do with the pulley/ flanges on the aircon unit and the clutch mechanism then cuts out the rattling when it has "engaged".
I have tried locally and found that this is a sealed unit and the pulley/flange that I require cannot be bought seperately.
Toyota Dealer are quoting £800 + VAT for it, then theres the re-charging of the system and the mechanics time for fitting it.
I have found it practically impossible to locate a secondhand unit.
What I am trying to find out is ; Can the belt be replaced with a belt for a non-aircon engine ? (obviously the pulley of the aircon unit may have to be removed) and is it as straightforward as it sounds ?
Does anyone have any diagrams showing the differences in the belt layout ? Read more
2.0 D4D model. Does anyone know, if the air con can be bypassed ? My aircon compressor is "rattling" on idle, but if I turn on the aircon the "rattling" stops. My mechanic tells me that its something to do with the pulley/ flanges on the aircon unit and the clutch mechanism then cuts out the rattling when it has "engaged". I have tried locally and found that this is a sealed unit and the pulley/flange that I require cannot be bought seperately. Toyota Dealer are quoting £800 + VAT for it, then theres the re-charging of the system and the mechanics time for fitting it. I have found it practically impossible to locate a secondhand unit. What I am trying to find out is ; Can the belt be replaced with a belt for a non-aircon engine ? (obviously the pulley of the aircon unit may have to be removed) and is it as straightforward as it sounds ? Does anyone have any diagrams showing the differences in the belt layout ?
I have a few questions about vans, if anyone can help.
After a rather successful trip in a small rented motorhome, I am exploring the idea that a large campervan may be the solution to my travel requirements for a project I am starting. (The project involves prolonged journeys of unpredictable locations in rural areas of Ireland and Scotland, for me and my dog. Not huge distances, but a lot of nights away in unpredictable places and b&bs aren't really useable with a dog).
The motorhome was very comfortable as a home, but apart from blocking out too much of the sky, it was just too big for easy driving in towns or at speed. Too wide to fit in car parks without using two spaces, and the high sides over the double-floor combined with the luton-style overcab bed area to make it unstable in crosswinds. Still driveable, but unpleasantly hard work.
So I reckon that a campervan (i.e a converted panel van) would make more sense than a motorhome, I don't think that economics of owning a campervan make sense, but I'm still exploring the idea.
The most popular vehicle for such conversions seems to be the Fiat Ducato van, but that model also seems to be plagued with problems. As usual with FIAT, the substantive failings are usually relatively minor, but FIAT dealers' inability to fix them is a constant source of complaint on the motorhome websites, one of which maintains a list of over half-a-dozen persistent problems.
The Peugeot Boxer van (a rebadged Ducato) appears to attract fewer complaints, although that may be because it's less widely used. However, so far as I can find out, it may use a different engine. Does anyone know if that's the case, or does it use the same engine as the Ducato?
The most common alternative seems to be the Ford Transit, which seems to be broadly similar in size, but just a little bit narrower inside than the Ducato. It doesn't attract complaints, but I dunno if that's because it is much less widely used for motorhomes. Are the recent (2006 onwards) Transits a reliable beast?
The alternative, which doesn't seem to be widely used for motorhomes or campervans, is the Mercedes Sprinter. As a bar panel van, it's a little more expensive new than a Transit, but holds its value much better. Does anyone know if its more reliable? Merc cars have taken a hammering on the reliability front in recent years, but did the problems extend to the vans too?
Thanks for any help. Read more
It is perhaps a bit late, but I have found the Forum at:
www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/magazines/default.asp?ma...4
to be helpful.
Members of that forum report that all the X250 based vehicles (the current Fiat, Peugeot, Citroen) suffer from the same problems, but that the attitude of the different manufacturers does differ. Fiat seems the worst offender as well as having the most cases of the main problems, namely water ingress over the engine and especially, severe judder when reversing up a steep slope.
I have been having loads of trouble with my van but recently was under powered and turbo not kicking in till around 2600 revs and glow plugs light coming on occasionally.
Put it into a garage no codes found but I asked them to check fuel filter as I had heard horror stories of filings and destroyed high pressure fuel pumps all was ok on that front.
Finally got codes by driving around with comp plugged and codes suggested excessive exhaust gases so EGR valve was taken out and cleaned found to be sticking but was put back in until new part arrived. Van dropped back at my house that evening. Next morning started van ok drove less than a mile stopped van. An hour or so later went to start van it 'fired up' and then died immediately this happened 2 or 3 times. Finally got it going with my foot on the floor as I turned it over and it slowly picked up after firing.
Back the garage for new EGR and turbo boost solenoid seem to have fixed the power issue but still fails to start properly. Giving it heat 2 or 3 times seems to work but it always used to be on the button before the EGR was taken out.
Any ideas
Fuel/Air problem from filter change?
Can the EGR affect starting?
Or is it just coincidence and I developed another fault while the other work was being done? Read more
Two fuelling systems on the Trafic [and clones.] One had a feed pump; the other sucks fuel into the HP pump. Any slight leak into the feed line will give your symptom with the latter system. EGR has no starting influence.
wonder if you could help me i have a vivaro 1.9 cdti and its smoking so bad at the back and a crackling noise coming from the back aswell, iv had numerous mechanics tell me its the egr valve . i have been taking it out and cleaning it and putting it back in then it was going ok for a week and then it gets sluggish and cuts out and smokes again . everytime i take the egr valve out its full of black oily grease and looks like carbon sticking, i have bought a new egr valve and the black carbon and grease has still got to the egr valve so back to square one again. i would love to know where the black stuff is coming from and getting to the egr valve???? my van is running ok so far as the A.A have reversed my egr valve and is sitting in the wrong position but its working fingers crossed,,, but obviously i need to sort it out any ideas?????
On the final return leg home of a wet saturday shopping trip the orange engine block light came on and the car started running as though on only three cylinders.
It had been an afternoon of stop/start driving between various shopping destinations but it wasn't until the journey home that the problem occured almost immediately. I stopped to chek the manual which indicates that this is an exhaust emission fault. The car felt and ran just as it would if you had removed a spark plug lead. I made it home (approx. 4 miles) and the fault remained consistent.
If the fault were a simple one, such as a spark plug lead coming off, would this make that light come on? Can anyone give me any pointers as to what it might be? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Read more
Hi Jezzer
I have same fault as you described before. Can you please let me know what was the solution for your problem?...
Leading on from a previous thread in which Mapmaker did advise that he was able to tell that his cambelt was about to give up, I'd just like to know what this sound is exactly? Specifically on GM engines if there is a difference
I've been thinking that it may take the form of a rattle at high revs, or a screeching noise potentially, or even a regular ticking noise. But not having heard it before I wouldn't know what to look out for. Read more
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Hi can anyone help? We have a 307 HDI 90 bhp 2001 'Y', vehicle brings up two fault codes when it goes into fault mode P1113 Diesel High Pressure monitoring pressure controller at stop & P1198 Diesel High Pressure monitoring flow regulator at stop. When we clear the codes, the vehicle runs okay as long as its not under load or if you ask for full throttle. As soon as you request full throttle the Anti Pollution light and Management Light on the dash comes on and the vehicle goes into limp mode. Sometimes after the lights on if you shut the vehicle off it does not start, you have to leave it for 30 mins to an hour then the vehicle will start again. Can anyone help? Thanks Read more
That "cure" sounds rubbish. Those codes should mean the regulator is fully open [at it's stop] and the pressure is still sub that commanded.
P1113 is "EDC16C3 - Diesel high pressure regulation circuit. Rail pressure below minimum pressure."
P1198 is "SID801 - Diesel high pressure monitoring. Flow regulator (VCV) at stop."
Those are "either/or" codes; depending on the make of the fuelling, you should get one - not both??
"A fuel rail leak that became apparent after changing the pipes;" raises more questions than it answers? There is no air in a system running at 25,000lbf/sq/in...!
An injector leak-off rate test is your next move.
My 607 2.2 hdi is displaying esp/asr defective followed by engine anti-pollution system defective. We have tried replacing the ECB, Filling the additive, Re-setting the level for the additive and still no joy. The fault will come on 3 to 4 days after having the ecu codes cleared and will then stay on for a random period of time before turning the engine management light off itself. The enginerecently blew up and was replaced at which time we changed clutch, flywheel and got a recharged FAP from peugeot. I'm pulling whats left of my hair out now as we seem to have tried everything and the garage bill is mounting. Read more
Had the same anti pollution light come up on my Peugeot 607 2.2 diesel. Dealers quoted £60 just to diagnose the fault, never mind repair it!
Got home, stripped off the covers to all the electrics and the fuse box, squirted with WD40 and then put in fuel additive to clean up the sensors....
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Would the rear brakes have wear sensors? I thought with most cars that had them fitted, only had them on the front. Could be wrong though.