I have just seen the underside of my car - lots of nasty brown rusty patches...
...I thought wheel arches and the underside of the wings all round were supposed to be rust proofed (as in black) like the rest of the vehicle is underneath?
All of the arches and wings underneath are the same colour as the rest of the car - why?
Is there an aftermarket rust prevention & re sealer available?
Is is easy to apply yourself or is it best to pay & let someone else do it?
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I did my Charade last week with waxoyl. Have to take the rear wheels off to get access but fronts you just turn them on lock. Took me about three hours including rubbing down a few rust spots and treating them.
I also took the back bumper off as its where moisture gets driven to and seems to dry slower than other parts of the car - it was worth doing as it had the most rusty spots of anywhere - now it has a nice coating so it shouldnt repeat.
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lots of stuff available to diy it
i prefer dinitrol products , they have stonechip paint that will dry hard , or underbodywax that stays soft
easy enough to diy if you can jack up the car, they do aerosols if you dont have a compressor
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I did my Charade last week with waxoyl.
Waxoyl, yes. Rubbery hard underseal, no, counterproductive.
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>>Rubbery hard underseal, no, counterproductive.
Quite right.
I remember having a new Maxi undersealed in 1980. What a waste of money that was !
Clk Sec
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15 years ago now but back then I had a nice MGB GT V8. The body was in excellent shape and I wanted to preserve it.
I contacted a local classic car restorer who did a full Waxoyl job using high-pressure wands in the sills, doors, chassis sections and the entire underside for £75.
Two years of all-weather, year-round use later, the waxoyl was still in place on exposed sections underneath the car, and of course once it's in box sections etc it stays there.
For what it's worth, I've found Waxoyl to be effective if it's brushed on, or sprayed using a proper compressor & wands etc (so it gets properly "misted") ..... the hand-pump kits and aerosols don't work very well at all.
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I've mixed Waxoil with white spirit till it's sprayable in a paraffin gun-works well.
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I prefer Dinitrol to Waxoyl, especially if there's any rust already there. Dinitrol penetrates better. Practical Classics did a test on rust proofers some time ago and Dinitrol came out top. More expensive than Waxoyl though, but cheaper than welding.
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Had a look in Halfords on the way home from work this evening - for £19.99 I can procure a large 5 litre tin of Waxoyl and for another £10 a hand help sprayer.
Thinning it with white spirit to make it sprayable seems like a very good idea too.
I have yet to see Dinitrol - is it as thick a liquid as the Waxoyl is and is it priced the same?
Using a pump sprayer (like the one you would put wood preservative on with) can I spray this on to the whole of the undrneath of my vehicle, inside doors, wheel arches, sills etc., with a degree of carelessness - obviously avoiding the hot bits (exhaust!) and the parts involved in braking, steering & suspension...
...without worrying too much about 'what else' I coat with it?
Are there any specific areas that I should not be coating?
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Apart from not getting it onto the brakes themselves obviously, you can spray away merrily, it doesn't affect rubber apparently, so not probs getting good and dirty round those susp mount areas, and its great for brake pipes in difficult areas, do the springs etc, it will be surprisingly quiet after.
I've done several cars fully over the years, and its the most filthy horrible job imaginable, best thing is to pour the first batch over your head then you won't worry about the rest of it ending up there as well..;)
Don't leave it much longer in the year and choose as warm a day as poss. Pre heat the waxoyle by standing it in a large pan of almost boiling water, the mrs will love you for doing that to her best steaming pan i know...
Obviously loosen the top to allow for expansion, and once you've filled the gun use as quickly as possible, as the stuff goes solid in the small bore pipe, and its a pita to clear out.
I find it best to have the vehicle pre stripped out, and on blocks so you can work around the whole job, you will be in no condition to dismantle during the waxoyling process.
By the way, the car will stink for about 6 weeks after.
Have fun, and pop down to Northants to do the inner workings of our pick up if you get the waxoyle fetish...please..
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Waxoyl is no good in impact areas such as the wheel arches. Yes, it will soften up existing underseal that may have gone hard and cracked - revitalising it, but on its own it is useless and will eventually be washed away.
Waxoyl works best in cavities, such as door panels, box sections, sills, and in areas where it is not subjected to any sand blasting effects - i.e. wheel arches. For that you need something like Carplans Tetroseal or some other rubberised covering product.
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Cleaning ouy waxoyl spraying equipment is easy : bery hot water plus washing up liquid : soak pipes and spray: all loosens up : easy.
Dinitrol is better for rust though as it creeps better.
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Waxoyl is no good in impact areas such as the wheel arches [...] will eventually be washed away.
It's rarely needed in "impact areas" these days, but will work for some time in such situations, and is easily replaced.
you need (...) rubberised covering product.
I would not apply that to anything. IMO it cracks and lifts and causes moisture traps.
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>> you need (...) rubberised covering product. I would not apply that to anything. IMO it cracks and lifts and causes moisture traps.
Which is why I suggested using waxoyl occasionally to soften and to prevent it from cracking.
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"Pre heat the waxoyle"
Very good advice. Also applies to varnish when painting your boat...
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This website has been mentioned here before but it is a good read on the subject www.before-n-after.co.uk/
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Have a look here www.rust.co.uk
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We used to use tall, cylindrical cans - about a litre - of what we just called 'underseal'.
Went on well enough using the garage compressor, until the nozzle clogged and the can burst....
Gooey black underseal everywhere - except underneath the car.
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Gooey black underseal everywhere
Have you tried removing the opyx stuff with a wire cup brush?
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Waxoyl underseal combines both worlds and does not crack...
Edited by madf on 02/09/2008 at 15:58
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How much would people be paying for a thorough and professional job to be done for them? I saw these blokes
www.jrclassics.co.uk/prices.html
who ain't partic cheap but seems as though v thorough. Nowhere near me anyway but wondered what people thought. Mine is slightly complicated as one or two steering linkages as well as floor pan and suspension areas are superficially rusty and need treating.
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Hyundai used to do a Dinitrol job on their cars for £99, in the days when rust was an issue.
I'm led to believe they still offer this as a service for their older cars, so if you have a Hyundai dealer nearby I'm sure they'd sort you out regardless of car model.
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Here in Sweden we still have Dinitrol Centres where you can take your car, and for about £300 have it all done.
My new D-Max pickup was done with Dinitrol by the importers as standard, and they did a pretty good job as well. A lot of the Japanese and Korean manufacturers do it as standard, due I think to a poor reputation in the past for rust buckets. Rust really takes a hold here, as cars can stay salt covered and damp for months on end. It also doesn't help that after driving on the many un-made stone roads, the dust sticks like cement and stays damp. Strangely though, they still only offer a standard 6 year corrosion warranty. Not that they're ever worth the paper they're written on anyway.
Underneath, they've used a sort of thick black waxoil, not as thick as underseal, but thicker than standard wax, and it doesn't wash off with a pressure washer.
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I arranged a deal for a members of a car club with this Hatfield based company (url below). They do work for a number of vintage car clubs. I'm happy to recommend them having had positive feedback from several satisfied customers.
www.rustmaster.co.uk
hth
R40
Edited by R40 on 10/09/2008 at 22:32
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Deegs & R40 - thanks for the links - I don't fancy doing this myself because I can just see, as I am clumsy, naturally messy and disorganised at the best of times, the mess it is going to make of my drive and garage - not to say what will get walked or carried in to the house - I'm still in the doghouse over a single left hand palm print on the wall going up the stairs (oil change - wiped hands but obviously not enough!) from 6 months ago!
Not to say the panic I had about the time my dog stood in the oil drain can and then ran in the house as I tried to grab him before he did...
...never worked a Vax so hard in all my life - got away with that one though!
Edited by Tron on 10/09/2008 at 22:33
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...never worked a Vax so hard in all my life - got away with that one though!
Mysterious paradox isn't it how one miniscule speck of dirt on the hall carpet results in pre-apoplectic huffing and puffing followed by dramatic production of cleaning materials and attendant muttering.
The carpet in her car though, remains invisible due to the layers of discarded rubbish and ground in grime.
;-)
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Now that is service for you!
Sent through the contact email to www.rustmaster.co.uk and within 10 mins I have a call and an all quote! £400inc vat. I asked what (Micheal) they do and he told me that they 'penetrate' all areas, thoroughly clean, prepare and re coat. This includes all sills, doors, frame and subframe too - basically anywhere that poses a rust threat get duffed up!
If required loan car is available, it takes 4 to 5 hours to do the job so you can make a day out in London whilst you get your car re undersealed.
Her indoors is up for this for no other reason than she gets a days shopping on Oxford & Regent St!
HB - yep, how very true save for the fact - I am the valet in this house when it comes to keeping cars clean - can't stand seeing a dirty car - all down to ex military chauffeuring days...
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All of the arches and wings underneath are the same colour as the rest of the car - why?
It's probably because the body was painted after the factory rustproofing had been applied. That way there's no risk of the rustproofing getting onto the paint finish of easily visible surfaces.
The underside of my Focus is like that.
Edited by L'escargot on 11/09/2008 at 08:54
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Sure I posted this earlier?
Have decided to go with J R Classics. A lot closer to home and virtually half the price for the same product £245 all in.
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Thanks to Joe at J R Classics for an absolutely spot on A1 job on my car.
All underneath is now 'covered' (well & truly too!) and I cannot fault the service at all that I have received from this small but more than capable company.
Very happy indeed with the work done - oh sorry! Did I say that already?!
Very clean (workshop is just as immaculate too) and tidy job indeed!
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