December 2008
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No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
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There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 170. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
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I'm looking at around 2002 models, about £6-8K. Which would be the better overall choice to keep for about 5 years? Both renowned high power 6 cyclinder diesels, the BMW better handling and faster? Mercedes is the better cruiser, but not to say the BMW is anything less than excellent. Or would a 2002 330d be better (c class has no competitor to the 330d)
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Many MB cars were built in SA. Steel quality there was poor. Apart from Cape Town and Durban , cars do not rust much in SA..(Rather like Fiats built in Italy in the old days)
EDIT
BMWs do not rust as a rule. My E30 was near perfect when 10 years old.
Just when I thought it could not get any worse. Just dropped my sister off
First off all just when i left my house the car was being lumpy in 3rd, I suspected it had ran out fuel (was also on the way to the fuel station) but it when I changed to 4th it was ran fine. Thought nothing of it, but maybe a fuel pump problem see how it goes.
A couple of times during the last month when moving of lights the car has been slow to move off with a bit of over revving, I did think then I hope its not the clutch but it seemed fine so again thouht nothing of it.
Anyway done 20 miles in it today and the over reving slowness thing had become more frequent, suspect it is no longer my dodgy driving. Got petrol (£8 worth thank goodness
I was just about to pull in and heared what sounded like an explosion, it turned out it was the spare wheel tray, put it back up let the clutch cool down and managed to drive it home fine with but with the clutch constantly slipping.
I can get this fixed for £150, but I am drawing the line now, I am going to rob swap the ICV, MAF and other sensors which are working fine put them on my dads (which is not running right), then sell my car on ebay.
I have already spent £200 repairing as they were safety things:-
Tow bar removed general check over and oil change - £50
New door latch, reverse switch and cv boot £80
Two new Pirerri tyres at £39 each, £78
New air filter - did this myself £5
New brake fluid cap - did myself £7.00
I am now kicking and screaming at myslef for letting my dad test drive the car (he knows nothing about mechanics) I didn't have insurance so could not test drive it myself. I also never listen to my own advice which is why I have a reputation for buying sheds. My heart just says car, I have money, me buy.
As we have a donor car it seems another incentive to swap spares rather than keep this car on the road, its a shame because the engine is in good condition.
I am tempted to find a larger car for my dad (better value for money) then me have his Fiesta, but then I know there are issues with that, so its probably no point.
I have a feeling my next car will be a Korean one :(, but it has not put me off Ford, I cannot blame Ford for buying bangers.
Sorry for long post, I need to let of steam.
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Three approaches in my book to bargain bangers:
1) Buy a Ford or a Vauxhall. Cheap parts. Only really worth it though if you can fettle the cars yourself -- the labour charges are the same as any other car, and Vauxhalls in particular tend to fall apart as they get older.
2) Buy a Jap car. Get the right one, and you'll only ever visit your mechanic once per year. Even cars that are little more than festering piles of rust keep dragging themselves along almost indefinitely. Probably the safest bet is to buy a newer Nissan or Mitsubishi -- worthless second-hand but run forever. Hondas tend to be too expensive for what they are IMO, and the Honda-based Rovers are too old now.
3) Korean. They aren't the best cars in the world, but the point with these is that you can sometimes buy them at only 5 years old for next to nothing. With the aftersales packages you get with these, and the fact that they're usually only bought as retirement or second cars, they've usually led an easy life, with low mileage and regular servicing. Hyundais in particular represent fantastic VFM, although the resale values are now sureing up so not the bargain they once were.
I would definitely agree with Nissan though -- IMO the best cheap cars on the market today, as long as you avoid some post-2000 models that have been compromised by a combination of a near-bankrupt Nissan penny-pinching and Renault interference.
Over the years I have passed tests for various types of vehicles and was always taught to position my vehicle correctly before a manouver. I was recently blocked by someone waiting to turn right who had made no attempt to move to the crown of the road (plenty of room). Many people seem to be incapable of using a roundabout correctly either, is positioning still taught, or are driving standards continuing to decline? Read more
Perhaps to support Westpig earlier, a good number of years ago when I spent a year working for our Roads Service, we were tasked with monitering traffic speeds on the Malone Rd Belfast, a wide surburban carrigeway with two lanes in each direction.
Speeds were averaging between 40 & 50, with the very few travelling faster or slower.
We were told at the time that the 85%ile rule applied ie if 85% of the vehicles were doing say 45 mph 45 mph was SAFE.
ie discount the 15% at the top end. They are driving TOO fast.
The net result at that time was the request to make this road 30mph was refused as it was unenforcable.
Unfortunately today this logic does not apply with speed camera being deployed.
So Westpig was/is applying this same logic to motorway driving, I think?
cheers
M
Apologies if this has been asked before.
What is the change interval for the timing belt on 1.6FSi engine fitted to a 2004 Touran S ?
Am I correct in reading it has been reduced to 40k miles or 4 years whichever comes first as the service log book seems to suggest far longer interval.
The above car was serviced by JCB VW Ashford last Easter on its 4th birthday, mileage was around 26k, and the dealer made no mention of a belt change.
Also, is it advisable to change the water pump on FSi engines at the same time as a belt change, or is it only specific engines where this is recommended?
thanks
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I decided to phone up the VW garage in the end. After checking two different databases, they confirmed my particular 2004 Touran is fitted with a cam chain.
I know this is a car orientated site but was hoping someone could poin me in the direction for some van advice. I want some more info on the Iveco daily 29L11 circa 2002. Specifically at what age or mileage does the cam belt need changing.
Failing any direct knowledge, can anyone point me in the direction of a forum for Vans or Iveco vans.
Thanks
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The earlier Sprinters '03 and before were complete animals when unladen and in damp or wet conditions. They tamed the beasts after then with traction control and ABS, made a world of difference.
The new shape Sprinters '06 on are different again, not as quick, but more comfortable to drive and easier for work.
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 264 *****
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PCs. Please use the current "computer Related Questions" thread instead.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details -
www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 263. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found:- HERE
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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I have found that bottles will be fine, the only thing about the cans (assuming they're not widget cans) is they might be a bit flat. I've got some 3 year old barley wine (left over from xmas pudding making) which are flat for drinking but fine for using in casseroles or the next batch of puds.
I drive in a rural area so the headlights are very important at this time of year. On main beam they are fine but on dipped beam very poor and this is using the projector part of the headlight. I don't want to install anything which is either illegal or will cause glare for oncoming drivers.
On a previous car I put some +50% bulbs in and they were a lot better but that wasn't in a projector headlight. I called in a local accessory shop and he said that he would only get them to order, they didn't improve lighting very much and would only last about two months!
My wife's car is fine on dipped beams but again not a projector headlight. Do all projector lights have poor performance? Read more
The xenons on my E-class are superb!
I changed the oil on my 1.8 tdci 2 weeks ago and have covered about 300 miles. Normally I would get a garage to change it (anyone agree its a hassle to change the oil and filter on the diesel focus?). After the change the oil looked about 25% black. Now its about 80% black. I thought normally oil in diesel cars would turn black immediately. Is this down to the good condition of the engine, the quality of the oil or driving characteristics? Some points:
Car has covered 105K (up to 67k it was a lease car probably used to pound motorways)
I rarely go over 3000K revs
I change the oil between 7000-12000 miles depending on the type of driving done
The oil cost £15 for 5L, semi synthetic (carlube from sutton auto factors, is £15 a bit cheap for semi syn?)
I change the airfilter every 20k miles
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I let Rapid fit change it over a year ago and it was OK but they don't drain it long enough, I don't think. A mechanic who changed the oil next said the sump plug hole was damaged by rapid fit and he charged me £12 for a new sump plug bolt - too expensive? He also changed the cambelt and kit for extra £150 (not bad price?).
I get satisfaction changing the oil myself, knowing the most important service item is done properly. Parts only cost me £18 (£15 oil, £3.10 filter!) and the £25+ I saved on the labour cost went towards a much needed second trolley jack. It took me 3 hours to do which included jacking both front sides up, taking off the undertray, letting it drain for 30 mins and clearing up at the end, but well worth the time.
.....Can anyone describe how to lock the crank/flywheel and diesel pump for correct timing. the haynes manual is useless i know this problem has been dealt with on here before but with conflicting advice, i just cant follow it.
slt Read more
I had a Metro with this engine. The car rotted and the suspension went bang on the way to look at a 405 but the engine was great, always started and brilliant on fuel. I had the local main dealer do the cambelt on it, it cost just over £150 about 6 years ago.
Steve.
Browse
Kevin
My point was not made clear. It's not that I don't see the speeds expected (my 10Mbit/s connection can hit 11Mbit/s) but these are base-10 figures....so 1Mbit/s is therefore 10 6 (1000000) and not 2 20 (1048576).