December 2008
Is there anyway to disable the rain sensor on my 03 Micra?
Everytime the windscreen gets even the slightest drop of water, the wipers start working at full pelt and continue to do so when the water has gone. This continues for days after and is incredibly infuriating. It can mean I have the wipers working on gloriously sunny days and people must think I'm mad!
I asked at my local dealership and they wanted to book the car in for a full electrical diagnostic test to locate the fault which I can imagine would be rather expensive so I decided to see if anyone else has experienced this problem and could help me.
My kind thanks in advance for any advice or guidance. Read more
Mk2 Ford Focus, 2007 model, Petrol.
The clock is built into the radio head unit (6000)and the time loses a minute or two a week.
It's been to the dealer a couple of times now. They've changed the head unit and bizarrely the new one is doing the same! (yes they definately changed it as the old one had a scratch on it).
I can only assume the electronics for the clock is not contained within the radio unit? i.e. that the radio is only the display.
There's no option to sync the time with RDS (unlike the older versions of the same radio).
Any ideas?
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I am having exactly the same issue. Did anyone find a solution?? Have messaged Ford, but not holding my breath.
I have no 'RDS time' option and no date displayed when powered off....
The law of physics says friction force depends only on coefficient of friction and weight and not on surface area.
But it is often said tyre width has a contributing factors in traction.
Do wider tyres provide better traction? How does it tally with physics?
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Manufacturers specify narrow tyres/small wheels for use in the snow,not just to cut thro' the snow but to allow the fitting of snow chains without destroying the wheel arches.
Yes, that well known authority on motoring and general driving expert Anna Ford thinks that once you reach 70, you should re take your driving exam.
www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1094478/Anna-Ford...i
sm--wants-retest-drivers-70.html
A genuine concern on her part or a shameless attempt to keep a failing career in the public gaze ?
Link to rival publication made non-clickable Read more
Ah yes, the NZ driving licence - three progressive stages with different colours, and you can get your first one aged 15, too, IIRC. Makes a lot of sense. One of the licence "upgrades" can be fast tracked if you do a defensive driving course. If only Britain had the time, resources and initiative to bring in a scheme like the NZ one. Incidentally, do NZ licences have photos now? I knew a NZ driver a few years ago and the only physical description on her licence was "eye colour brown" !
'High-profile plans announced by Gordon Brown to ease the burden on motorists by making MOT tests less frequent have been quietly shelved, The Daily Telegraph can disclose.The about turn was performed two years after the then-Chancellor said that MOTs would move to every other year as part of a Government crack-down on bureaucracy and red-tape, and in order to reduce the cost on drivers.
In an embarrassing move, the proposals have been scrapped after officials calculated that making MOTs compulsory only every two years - rather than annually at present - would lead to a "significant increase" in deaths and injuries on the road."
www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/3724567/Two-year...l
Now isn't the bit about '"significant increase" in deaths and injuries on the road."' interesting. We are constantly told that speeding and drink driving are the biggest cause of deaths and injuries on our roads but suddenly the notion that dangerous vehicles will increase those figures is thrown in to the pot.
'Two years later, in a written ministerial statement slipped out this week by the Department for Transport, Jim Fitzpatrick, the Transport Minister, said that an analysis of the proposal had found a significant cost in human terms.
He said: "Our analysis suggests that a significant number of additional road traffic accidents would be likely if MOT test frequency was reduced.
"This is primarily because the annual MOT failure rate is already high (around 35 per cent) and if we were to reduce frequency, there is a very real risk that the number of unroadworthy cars would increase significantly. In turn, the number of road casualties would inevitably increase.'
Of course, no breakdown of the 35% failure rate is offered. Now judging by my own experiences of MOT failures, I wonder how many of those failures are down to incorrect number plates and their letter spacing, chips in the windscreen or emission readings, non of which would make a vehicle more likely to crash and kill people in my view.
The yearly MOT fee is like the TV licence fee, a tax in all but name. Who would want to throw away the opportunity to collect it every year ?
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Until a few years ago the Irish were notorious for only testing vehicles once every
5 years!
They scrapped their MoT and introduced the NCT - the National Car Test. The NCT
is undertaken by a government agency rather than garages. I understand that it is more
rigorous than the UK MoT but is undertaken only every other year...
Wrong: Ireland never had an MoT test. The NCT was introduced in 2000 (see www.ncts.ie/faq.html#1), before which there was no testing regime at all.
What may be confusing you is that it was introduced in phases over several years, starting with the oldest cars and working up to the newer ones
Can someone recommend a good brake/clutch bleeder that I can use with my air compressor?
Was looking at the Draper make but have heard no reports on them, should I go for Gunsons instead?
Ta Ta! Read more
I use an Eezibleed as mentioned in other posts here.
Absolute piece of cake on a bike as long as you don't let the resevoir empty though no big beal if you do. Not sure about the car as it was done by the main dealer at the last service for £30 including brake fluid.
Took me ten minutes to do the both front and rear brakes on the bike with 500ml (6?) of brake fluid, not sure what the volume is for the car.
Just bought this car and yesterday I had a problem starting it. The engine cranked over but would not fire (or tried to a tiny bit). We checked the battery voltage and it turned out to be real low (12.2v) so I bought a new battery (I bought a lead acid one but have since discovered that I can only use an expensive silver calcium one from ford). It was real cold out last night which may have had something to do with it.
Stuck the new one in this morning but did the same thing. Battery voltage was better at 12.53 but it wasn't really firing. I then tried to start with my foot fully pressed on the accelerator and after a few seconds of intermittent firing it started ok and then ran fine. It has now restarted ok since. Voltage when running was 14.7 with lights/heater/heated screen on (so as far as I can tell the battery is being charged fine).
After I google searched I found the following suggestions:
Spark plugs dirty
Fuel injection problem causing engine flooding?
Fuel pump
Cranking sensor
Coolant temp sensor
I have a feeling it is something to do with fuel, but not sure. It seems to run fine when its running other than occasional slight (up to 2000rpm) revving coming up to junctions when the clutch is depressed (perhaps completely unrelated?).
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks! Read more
ok thanks for the advise.
Back to the car problem, I think the problem gets worse the longer I leave the car standing between starts. It has been suggested to me that this problem could be related to one or more leaky injectors slowly dripping fuel into the cylinders when the car is left standing resulting in a flooded engine when I come to start it.
Could anyone verify this?
Hi,
My first post on here.........
My 2001 Focus 1.6 petrol has had a starting problem for a while.
Engine requires 4 to 5 seconds of cranking to start.
Engine cranks over very well but no sign of trying to start.
I assume that fuel, spark or both are not being commanded by the ECU.
After 4 to 5 seconds engine actually begins to 'fire' and will then run but runs a bit hesitantly / varying idle speed for a couple of seconds as though something is being adjusted. After this engine runs OK and drives well. Occasionally the engine will start on the first turn of the key!
I have changed the plugs & leads (all genuine Ford replacements) - no improvement.
It has been to an independent and a Ford agent - no stored faults.
Independent Garage suggested the camshaft sensor - changed it but no improvement
Ford agent updated ECU software with no improvement.
Any advice appreciated.
slt Read more
Did you ever get your car sorted out? I am having the exact same problem with my Ford Focus. Now stuck not knowing what to do with a car stuck at the garage and no one seems to know what is wrong with it.
My insurance company offers a discount for a fitted Cat 1 immobiliser and rather less for a fitted Cat 2.
I could not steal a car with an immobiliser, I wouldn?t know to begin, but it made me think 'is it possible?? Obviously any car can be stolen just by means of a lift, or a suspended tow, or even, given enough time by replacing components.
Are immobilisers secure, do any BR's know of the theft of an immobilised car, are aftermarket security devices worth having, if so which ones?
Just curious really, as I have not personally heard of an immobiliser fitted vehicle being taken.
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A neighbour of mine used to remove all ignition leads at night...
He must have been suffering from paranoia.
Hi ,
Ford Focus 1600 Ghia purchased April 2005
Had this niggle last winter and now its back again.
Noticeable creaking sounds from either suspension or steering, only heard at speeds below 25mph and also when temp is below approx 7c.
No problem in higher temperatures.
Otherwise a good car with no other problems . Might even replace with same model next time .
This creaking is very annoying.... I am sure it is related to the colder weather .
Any advice would be welcomed.
Thanks ,
Ken Read more
If coming from the rear, it's most likely to be where the rear springs sit in the wishbones. Just empty a can of WD40 in there and it should go away.... did on ours.
For longer lasting fix, try something with Teflon added. Maybe even something like spray copper greese?
Make sure you put a newspaper underneath while the excess drains off or you'll cause a mess and/or slippage.


The manual off-switch should turn them off.
However, if they are already working when you manually switch off, (other than using the ignition switch to do that) they will continue to work until the wipers reach the parking position. At that point, the wipe-switch opens that otherwise supplies a feed that bypasses the manual off-switch.
So my guess is that your problem has nothing to do with the rain sensor, rather it is the wipe-switch that is not opening properly.
An experienced mechanic ought to know that and also where to find and check it. Or is that expecting too much?
The wipe/park-switch used to be part of the wiper mechanism, worked off the wiper angle, and probably still is, because only the wipers 'know' when they are at park position.
Report back with your repair result.