just wondering what other users on here think of hammerite?
i use a few car forums and it always gets mentioned when someone needs to refurbs some rusted cars or parts
ive used it in the past and found it to chip off and generaly be pretty poor paint, doesnt seem to hold back rust any differant to any other brush on paint
just amazes me how its all over the shops still...or am i being unfair?
also intrested if youve found something that works , ive recently had good results with rustoleum
Edited by Pugugly on 26/07/2008 at 14:15
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Great stuff. When I bought this house in 1987 the iron railings at the front were bubbles of rust with the remnants of some ancient paint on them. I wire brushed the loose stuff away and painted with Hammerite smooth as per the destructions. Have not had to touch the railings since with no sign of deterioration
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It's excellent stuff. Like any other paint, it needs a well prepared surface.
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There used to be a paint called "brown velvet", now Finnegan's No. 1, unless it's changed names again. That was good "undercoat". Hammerite is iffy on anything that flexes, IMO, else OK. It dries too fast to get a good finish, unless you're really, really fast. Smoothrite is OK for some things.
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I hate the stuff. Use to use it a lot on the car but now realised it just cracks and peels away, and doesn't like salt, any grime, or damp conditions. Straight onto rust? Yeah right! The only thing it's good for is non-rusty surfaces.
Since last year I've been using POR-15. Covers extremely well and I haven't seen any deterioration of anything I've painted with it yet.
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Reminds me of dad coming home with some cans of Hammerite from work (had NATO stock codes on it) and he decided to paint what would now be called a conservatory with it - I'm certain we had the only Porch with a silver hammered effect walls in Christendom. What actually possessed him to do this he still won't say. He swore by Hammerite.
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hmmm mixed views then so far
regarding the prep..ive worked in bodyshops for over 16yrs i have a rough idea how to clean things up ready for paint
ive tried it on several suspension bits n bobs and it hasnt lasted 5 minutes
ive also had good results with por15...shame its so dear and hard to purchase , idealy id like something i can but in the high st
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My grasscutter got a daub of hammerite about 20 years ago and most of it is still there holding the thing together. Kept outside under an inverted wheelbarrow I usually thin it a bit and use two coats.
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They've changed the formulation now. It used to contain xylene that woud knock your head off and you had to use their xylene thinners. You also couldn't recoat for something like 4 weeks if you left it to long.
But now I see there are no xylene warnings on the tin, you can recoat after 24 hours, and use white sprirt to cleanthe brush.
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Strangly enough, the "Silver" Hammerite rusts! - I once used it on some railings and fittings on my boat and by the end of the season there were rusty marks on the hull where the water had run down the stanchions, and instead of the rails being a nice shiny silver colour, they were mottled with bown.
Billy
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I was considering using the smooth light grey or silver version of this to paint some wheel nut bolts that have gone rusty. After a wirebrush I thought a coat or two.
The question is will it stay on after a socket ot two has done up, and undone the wheels; or can anyone suggest anything better?
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Whilst I've used Hammerite on cars over the years, I agree it doesn't like flex and is probably best for rusty railings, tools & the like. Several car restoration stories I've read mention regretting using Hammerite (Smooth or Hammered) on the chassis when the likes of Frost sell so many paints better suited to car applications.
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I've also got railings to the front of my property. Installed about three years ago. Gave the virgin surface a good slap of Hammerite.Did look good at first. After a year the rust was coming back through in places. You should see them now. The guarantee was it should last 5 years. No chance. I was going to go over them last summer. Hence the state they are in now. Bit of dry weather at present so I might give it another try. But not with Hammerite. Doesn't DO what it says on the tin IMHO!
I'll try the red oxide and normal metal paint route. Any other suggestions.................Hold on, am I on a DIY forum here?
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Cans of car spray paint are worth considering.
After all, when did you last see peeling graffiti?
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my railings were took away in 1940 to build new spitfires and tanks... they said we would get new ones after the conflict, still waiting!!
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They lied to you, it was only the MK ix Lancaster that had railings. The others made do with conifers.
Edited by Pugugly on 26/07/2008 at 20:51
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As a zookeeper you would miss railings more than most.
Mind, same house for 68 years, what did you pay for it? A white fiver?
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seriously though, how much cast iron, pig iron does a spitfire have? i thought they were all alloy aluminium skinned, i dont know if the RR engine block was cast or ally? some boffin will be along soon i suspect...gives me time to put me blackout curtains up.... zoo
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Some of the more exotic metals collected during the war effort were recycled. However a lot of it ended up on the sea-bed.
www.christopherlong.co.uk/pri/wareffort.html
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Recall reading somewhere the railings blitz was of no benefit to aircraft production.
It was done for propaganda to keep the war in the public eye, involve people back home, that sort of thing.
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Recall reading somewhere the railings blitz was of no benefit to aircraft production. It was done for propaganda to keep the war in the public eye involve people back home that sort of thing.
thats what i thought, a bit like this global warming , recycle your egg boxes and snip we have today?
Edited by Pugugly on 26/07/2008 at 21:18
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I understand a lot of the bombs that were dropped during the early part of the war contained no explosive, just metal.
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Still not good if hits your house.
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Still not good if hits your house.
especially as we have no railings to protect us
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