July 2008

DP

In preparation for a forthcoming trip to the Continent I tried this out last night and it works a treat. Just in case this is of use to anyone (it doesn't appear to be in the handbook), I've posted it here:

To set Renault Scenic II / Grand Scenic digital speedometer and trip computer to metric:

Ignition must be off (so open and close the door in the case of full keyless models)
Press and hold the upper (^) fuel computer button on the end of the wiper stalk
Still holding the ^ button, insert the key card into the slot on the dash.
Make sure you're not touching the clutch or brake pedals.
Still holding the ^ button, press and hold the Engine Start/Stop button. The ignition will come on.
After about 5 seconds, the speedo appears, and begins to flash.
After another 5 seconds, the units switch from mph to km/h but the speedo still flashes.
After another 5 seconds, the whole thing stops flashing.
Voila - you now have km/h speedo, and the computer now reads in metric too.

To switch back to miles and gallons, repeat the same process.

Cheers
DP
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Pugugly


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smokie

...but a firmware update is much more likely to fix this problem than anything else. I've updated firmware in (maybe) dozens of devices without a problem - though Stuart is right, it's a risky area to be in.

btw I recall firmware updates for a previous optical drive which did a whole lot more than faster disk speeds. From memory, it made the drive region free, changed the purpose (and hence the usefulness) of the lights, and resolved a problem not dissimilar to that described.

When upgrading firmware, follow the instructions to the letter - and even if it looks hung, leave it for a considerable time before turning off, as that's what would cause damage.

hc1uk

my car still refuses to start getting a spark ok at the plugs but seem to be getting no fuel through the injectors getting good pressure to the fuel distributor then nothing from there plugs are dry after a few minutes cranking it over could it be fuel distributor problem or ECU Read more

Andrew Moorey (Tune-Up)

Up by the battery is the "over-voltage protection relay" it has a fuse in the top of it. IIRC this provides the power to the electrical part of the KE Jet system. Make sure the fuse is intact. So long since I worked on one of these..........

Fazer1000

I'm very tempted to buy a car from a dealer who imports 'nearly new' cars (just a few months old) from the Channel Islands.

They are apparently used mainly as hire cars and have just a few thou miles on the clock, they come with the balance of the manufacturers warranty (so usually about 2 to 2.5 years) and the dealer registers and supplies UK plates.

Prices are considerably lower than the equivalent model from a main dealer, and speaking to my insurers there is no penalty as they are 'UK Spec' cars.

All the above indicates that they should really be a good deal.... unless I'm missing something ????

Comments and thoughts welcomed ! Read more

Mapmaker

Modern cars are so difficult to destroy, I really wouldn't worry about it. Scrapes you will see and know about - and they'll all have been touched up by chipsaway anyway.

Ludwig

My recently acquired Vectra C is my first vehicle with cruise control. I like to drive steadily, trying to eke out the miles. Is this best done with the CC on or off? Read more

Optimist

Yeah, but what if you arrive on a plateau with no down hill stretch in sight?


richbev

i have an afn diesel sharan and the wiper motor has gone. My question is can i buy the relay seperate from the motor as when i power up the motor it is in good working order Read more

NightMare 666

can i ask where the wiper relay is located ?? pls. we really need the help

Big Tom

Where do I check the oil level on my 04 Vauxhall Agila 1.2? How do I check it? What oil should I top it up with? Read more

Victorbox

Experts will be along soon but I did notice in our Corsa service booklet that the Agila has a scheduled complete gearbox oil change at 20,000 miles or 40,000 miles - can't recall which. Most unusual.

blind man

Hi can anybody help me with a fault i have with the intermittent wiper setting, what happens is that when i select the intermittent wiper the blades move a few inches or travel to the top and then stop i then have a problem of getting the blades back to the home position which is only possible by squirting the wash water.All of the other settings work fine.
How do i go about diagnosing the fault ie eliminating various components of the system. Read more

topbloke

you will need a new motor,common fault whith this vehicle. TB

jp147

About a couple of years ago, I had to call the AA because my Ford Focus (petrol) had a power steering pump leak. The AA mechanic said that it was caused by a "pressure sensor leak". Because I couldn't drive the car to a garage to be repaired (the leak was too large), I had a mobile mechanic come to my house to do the work.

Do you think that this repair will prevent the same thing happening again in the near future and are power steering system leaks common especially on cars of this age ?

When the repair was done the mechanic refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid. How often does the fluid need replacing ? Read more

caine

Probably pressure blew the sensor apart due to unusual cicumstances,As for change,that's down to ford schedule.Me,new fluids nice and bright and clean,old stuff is dirty,dark and stinks.Not very precise I know,But just how many testers do we need to buy?Experience does sometimes count..

andyj941

I'm starting to wonder how I ever got by without this site!

I've just this minute got back in from taking my 01 fiesta flight for it's MOT which expires on the 8/8/08 and it's failed on 3 things.

1. Offside front brake pipe excessively corroded

2. Nearside front (rear bush) suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement

3. Offside front (rear bush) suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement.

How much can I realistically get the repairs done for? The garage I went to quoted £76 for the brake pipe and £206 to have the bushes done. I plan to ring around to get the best deal I can when I have an idea of how much it should be costing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Read more

DP

There is a half way house between rip off "genuine" parts (which in this case are known to be rubbish anyway) and unknown source, ultra cheap Ebay parts, and that's known brand aftermarket stuff from a local factors or autoparts shop.

When I did this job on SWMBO's old mkIV, my local motor factors wanted about £25 a side for Quinton Hazell parts - about a third of Ford's quote. They fitted perfectly, and lasted for the rest of our ownership period.

It's not a bad job. First side took me about an hour, second side about 30 mins (benefit of experience). Hardest part is getting the new arm into place and the bolt holes lined up - it's a tight fit. I also replaced the hub to bottom balljoint bolt and locknut (you will muller the thread getting it out) - these were application specific and in a blister pack from the same motor factors for about two quid each. Good practice anyway to renew Nyloc nuts whenever they are disturbed.

You have to tap this bolt right out of the hub instead of just slackening it. It's more than just the conventional pinch bolt that it appears to be, as it also engages with a recess on the balljoint to stop the balljoint dropping out of the hub. With the bolt in situ, even with the nut removed, the joint won't separate. Safe, but confusing if you're working without a manual.

Oh, and when completed, get the tracking checked! Bush wear does affect wheel alignment

Good luck

Cheers
DP