July 2008
Hi everyone. I'm looking for a bit of help please. My wife drives a zafira and recently it started to loss power and EML comes on after 3 or 4 miles driving. The crank shaft sensor has been replaced and it drives a bit better but when idling the engine seriously hunts causing lots of vibration. When you take of in first gear the car will nearly stall. This will happen through first and second and into third. Once you reach about 45 mph it improves a little. Also when the car is switched of the EML will go off and car will have full power until EML comes back on. Any ideas where to go from replacing the crank shaft sensor.
Many thanks. Read more
have a droning noise coming from the back of car. it is loudest between 40-50 mph and speeds up with the acceleration of car.
can it be anything apart from rear wheel bearings?
to replace, is it just a case of removing wheel, removing 4 bolts from backing plate, replacing bearing?
any advice would be appreciated. Read more
If you've got rear drums, then removing the drum/hub and stub axle in one go by undoing the 4 rear bolts as you described is a great way of working on the brakes without disturbing the bearings.
However - if you need to change the bearing, then you'll need to remove the hub-nut and the hub-nut is done up to 235Nm so you're going to need the stub axle on the car to undo it !
I've done both of mine within the past 12 months - once I undid the hubnut, I was able to remove my drums easily. Removing the bearing from the drum was impossible though. I eventually got a friendly local garage to press the old bearing out and a new one in for free the first time and £10 the second time.
My tip is if you use a generic bearing like I did (mine were Unipart) then make sure you re-use your Ford hub-nut or buy a new Ford hubnut if you think it's likely to have been on and off a few times, as they should only be reused 4 or 4 times max I think. I did this the first time with no problems. The second time I used the Unipart hubnut that came in the pack and the corners started rounding off at the very high torques required to tighten it back up - not good !
I have an A3 2.0 tdi. The cooling fanstays unless I disconnect the battery, I have disconnected what I believe to be the cooling sensor (between battery box and engine),
but the fan just keeps going. I believe there must be a relay some where that operates the fan and would be grateful to know where to look plus any other suggestions.
There was a faint small of electrical burning that possibly is a relay but no fuses have blown.
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hi did you find these in the big fan ?
dear all
having probs with central locking in my x type,
some times the key fob will not lock the doors so have to lock all locks individually, it will unlock centrally, but normally with one push of the button only drivers door unlocks it is now not doing this and all doors are being unlocked.
The doors are also not automatically locking when i pull away.
Any ideas? Read more
I've had similar on my S Type and my Jag independent has advised me X Types have the same faults
Basically one of the door locks will be sticking. When you use the plipper, it tries to do what you ask, but because one of the doors isn't complying, it doesn't comply. It can stick alternately in either the closed or open position and sometimes will work as it should. (That's why the doors don't lock automatically when you pull away, one is being 'held' unlocked). The more worrying thing will be you'll lock the car, the alarm will be set, but one door will still be unlocked and you won't have noticed it.
I tried going mad with WD40 etc and that was a hopeless waste of time. Strongly suspect you'll have to change one or more door locks.
My '99 S Type has now had three done (over a period of 6.5 years). Wife's '05 X Type has had none go wrong (over period of 3.25 years)
Anyone know much oil a shock absorber contains, and how much could it lose before its effectiveness is compromised?
One of my front shocks has a slight leak but its not of immediate concern according to the tyre fitting workshop staff this morning.
Do I change it now or get it done at MOT time later this year?
Does the MOT tester bounce the corners to tell if its ok or do they perform a more 'scientific test'. Read more
Settle it with a custard pie fight, video it and post it here.
Hi All,
My Passat has developed a problem with the indicator in the last week. The indicators and hazard work fine but when the stalk returns to the neutral position the clicking sound can still be heard. The problem has got worse over the week with the clicking coming on and off at will.
I have replaced the Hazard relay but this has not cured the problem.
I have searched the internet and can see that this is a common problem but have yet to find a solution. Can anyone help?
Thx
Bhav Read more
> Why didn't the dealer / garage to this!!!
'Cos there's no profit in ten minutes work and a squirt of WD40?
So the new Jazz in the UK is to lose its CVT box and have an electric clutch manual instead.
Well done you fools at Honda*, the old jazz sold in its thousands with the CVT 'cause it was smooth and efficient.
I can't comment on the efficiency of the new model but I'll bet my last tank of juice that it won't be smooth, especially from 1st to 2nd!
* A bunch of kids no doubt without any respect for the driver who wants/needs an automatic.
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Well dunkey very interesting, but bottom line is as I always said, "Poor Excuse for an Automatic"!
My Ford Ka was bought in September 2003, so coming up to 5 years old.
On the underside of the sill on the driver side, there is rust bubbling through everywhere.
The underside of the sill on the passenger side, while by no means perfect, is pretty good.
1) Why should it be so much worse on the driver's side?
2) What do I do? I plan to keep the car. If it was just two or three spots, I'd deal with it myself. But it isn't. How much chance do I have of claiming on the Ford anti-rust warranty? Read more
Victorbox:
>>Not very confident in the quality of their workmanship are they?
Well, I took it that they were just being honest and realistic. I am under the impression that with this kind of work, it is inevitable that unless one actually cuts out and replaces the affected metal, the rust will reappear, no matter how good the quality of the work is. But I may be wrong.
bell boy:
Thanks for that. Interesting, but not encouraging. If I get around to asking them, and get a coherent answer that I can understand, I'll report back
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As for bleeding the boiler if you run out; it's a doddle for anybody with half an ounce of common sense. The guy from the oil company will probably do it for you if you ask.
hi their, i have a vauxhall astra 1.6 16 valve ls. i have had problems in the past with this car but managed to sort it and the last being the egr valve being blanked off a few months ago. but again im having problems. yesterday the car was fine until last nite when it just suddenly died on me. no lights appeared on dashboard beforehand.phoned the rac guy and even he was baffled. no faults appeared on his computer and we also put more petrol in the car, he was thinking the petrol gauge was dodgy. then checked the petrol pump petrol is running fine through system. the car will start no problem, but then has problems keeping idle speed and then just dies. managed to drive the car a wee bit but you really need to rev it up high and try to keep it at that or it will cut out. the same thing happened a few weeks ago, but i managed to limp it home and left it overnight and when i went out to turn it over the next day and it was fine and has been for a few weeks till know. the rac guy seems to think it might be idle control valve?.. any ideas as it is starting to annoy me as i thought my problems were solved when i blanked off the egr valve.
make of car now selected from drop down menu Read more
I have had constant probs. the car starts no problem, fires up well, but so far into my journey the management light comes on and car starts to shudder(misfire) doesnt cut out. struggles on 3 cylinders. i will then restart and it goes, but it lacks power, its as if the rev counter is stuck at 2000revs, then all of a sudden it will shoot off as though it has a new lease of life. so i have had a new egr valve put in. fine for a week then same probs. took it to garage and guy said cylinder 1 was misfiring, so i had a new coil pack and plugs put in and ecu reset. was back a week later, as i was still having probs. cylinder 3 misfir.new plug put in and ecu reset again. took car for really long run and it has been fine for 3 weeks, then lately it has started to lack power, then it started to misfire again, back to garage, was told that it was showing cylinder 4 misfire, but the car had settled, so the ecu was reset again? the only cylinder that hasnt went is2. i also have the engine electronic light coming on but if i turn the ignition off the light goes off. any ideas.
Browse
Found this post very helpful led me straight to the problem which was loss of power and eml coming on and going into limp mode, very annoying!! I had changed the top intercooler hose because it was split, but still didn't sort the no boost, however I got lucky and just wiggled the connector on the boost pressure sensor and the eml has stayed off for now. I also disconnected the White vacuum hose at both ends and started it up and that's how the eml went off, must have been a combination of the both. Saved me a sherwoods bill at least :-)