January 2008
As company cars are taxed beyond all reasonable levels, fewer and fewer people who do not suffer a long commute take advantage of the company car.
Indeed, some jobs come with just a car allowance - no car option at all. So why do they bother?
Non pensionable; not part of salary when calculating death in service benefit... any others?
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Car was being driven along and on slowing down the speedo and rev counter both stayed at the same reading. On stopping the indicators were not working but there was a ticking noise, the electric windows had failed and a warning bleeper was sounding all the time. The central locking would not work with the remote but would with the key. As the destination was only a short distance away the car was driven there and the AA called. Needless to say when the AA turned up everything was back working and they could not find any fault. The car performed perfectly well on the 50 mile journey back.
There is little point taking it into the garage as the faults have all gone and presumably will not have left any fault codes.
The only other problem we have had with this car is a very occasional no reaction when trying to start the car. The ignition key is turned but nothing happens except a click and the engine management light flashes. Try several times with similar result. Leave a minute and it starts perfectly. A mystery!! Anyone got any idea what the problem might be. Thanks. Read more
i had similar problem, certain item such as headlight, power steering, speedometer, etc turn off when rev more than 2500. but signal light, central lock, heater still on, problem solved, change the alternator.
HELP
Last night my wife bought my car home, Mondeo 2004 130 tdci, says shes has filled it ip and it semed cheaper than usual, she filled it up with Petrol and its a diesel car!
I could get the tank drained by a local dealer, but have been handy with cars for many years and hve equipment to stay safe and store the drained fuel.The question is how to drain it out.
I dont thnk i can syphine (not sure thats how you spell it) as from my experiance newer cars will have some form of flap or mesh stopping this, but please say if not.
The other option is to discnnect the line someshere there is a clip underneath (yes i have just beenunderneat, neigbors think i am mad!) as the pipe comes out of the fuel tank I think, does this come apart?
I could disconnect at the injector and run pump but think I will damage the pump.
Or could there simply be a drain plug (i doubt it these days but have a little hope)
Any thoughts, advice welcome about the car, the wife, well i have to use her car tomorrow! she can use the bus
Thanks all Read more
about 1 litre is diesel and 59 litres is petrol
Hi there, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a problem with my '96 Megane. The engine will stall with no warning. It can go for days driving really well and then cut out several times in the same journey. The only thing I've noticed is when I change gear, the revs will drop very fast. Also, the coolant has dried up twice in a week and I can hear a water swishing sound coming from behind the dashboard (don't know if this has anything to do with the stalling). The throttle housing has recently been changed but the problem seems worse as now it will cut out at any speed not just a low one. Anyone got any ideas? Read more
Hi there - having been through this -I can tell you that you may end up changing every sensor on the vehicle - it is even a fault on new vehicles -Renault are getting away with murder - I am advised that crank position sensor- idle control valve and sensor - throttle position sensor -another in the gearbox- coilpacks -all been changed - so will take it in for diagnostics in January to find out that it needs an (only thing left) ECU -engine control/management unit - what they fail to tell you that changing sensors affects the programming - Renault have a lot to answer for and then try to screw you for their services. The ECU would be my obvious choice -I have a 99 megane Sport!
I'm afraid Renault are still building stalling machines.
What are they like to drive power wise? Handling? How reliable are they? I read CBC so am avoiding the 1.9.
Any owners here?
I looked at the Berlingo but it seems to have a longish list of potential issues and Im not up for that! Read more
Hyundai offer a 5 year warranty, UL mileage, but their cars rarely go wrong, still they arent expensive at all, so whats going on there then?
Hyundai clearly believe it is economically viable to offer such a long warranty and given that my mums Hyundai at 31k is behaving impeccably, it would seem to make alot of sense - the cost of a warranty is only administration so long as the car is properly made and it gives the consumer confidence and the feeling of a safety net, rather than being hung out to dry on niggling faults which seem sto be a common practice by certain makers these days, even with their own design faults.
The Doblo seems to be fairly solid though aside from early gearbox problems, so Im hoping that even tho its not covered for that long, I shouldnt need a warranty.
A colleague was crashed into on an approach to a roundabout, by the car behind.
The person driving the car which crashed into my colleague's wrote down her name, address, post-code, and registration number. My colleague photographed the scene.
It has been found that the name, address, and post-code were falseified (no such post code/road).
The number plate was written down wrongly, with characters transposed. The photos., fortunately, recorded the correct number.
So, take care when you take down details if you're crashed into! Read more
There are plenty of us who are law abiding but still opt not to be listed on the public electoral roll.
Councils sell their electoral roll data and it is a common way to obtain names/addresses for junk mail purposes. I know lots of people that dont go on the public list. I only show up if you go to the council office to see the full list.
Thanks to everyone for your previous help, the final thing I now need to fix is the driver side central locking.
Sympton is:
This is key operated central locking, not remote. The drivers door will lock the car fully, but doesn't operate at all when I want to open the door.
I'm thinking the car will have electric motors driving the mechanism, not just a solenoid? Likely that I will need to source a replacement motor for this?
Is there a common fault with these and is there anything I should do before just getting a replacement motor?
From the passenger side, both doors operate successfully on the key turn!
Is there some sort of actuator that would trigger the electric motor/solenoid, which would need changing, as the lock operates from the passenger side?
Any idea how much a part will be from Ford and/or other supplier?
Finally, I may try to install one of these widely advertised "remote" packages that gives you a remote fob to operate the locks. Any advice on these or recommendations?
Thanks! Read more
ok ,,
just bough a fiesta from the auctions ,, all was cool except the drivers elec window would not open , nor the lock would let me in ,,,and there was no way i was keep using the passenger door lock .... here is the SECRET quick fix solutions i will share ......
hi, i have noticed similar posts but i need help, not long ago i changed the heater control valve as it was leaking and it was broken... the new one worked fine until recently when all that i get is cold air blowing. both the pipes on both sides are hot as i have the heat turned up, they run hot water... is the HCV likely to be the problem here?
thanks Read more
its more then likely your hcv is at fault but sometimes the heater controll module is faulty lets hope its not that as that will cost you more money
I was interested in the recent post about long distance commuting, as my commute is 115 miles round trip. Fortunately not every day as I work at home and travel overseas quite a lot as well. However I clock up 25k or so each year. A year ago I swapped a venerable but ageing E class for a modern Corolla diesel with all the attributes of being good on the country lanes around where I live but with the legs, economy and reliability for longer distances. In nearly 20k it has proved an excellent car, but last week I had cause for thought. The M40 between 10 and 9 early morning is often very congested with traffic from the M1/A43 going down one exit to the A34 Oxford/Southampton road - lots of HGVs of course. Thoughtless, pennypinching road design leads to long queues at peak time to get onto the A34, backing up onto the motorway. Inevitably there are those who cruise lane 2 in the hope of cutting in at the last minute to save queueing. However if they cant they slow down and even stop causing a severe domino effect with sometimes heavy braking and stop start motoring. Last week this happened and I stopped safely in a blaze of sudden brake lights as everybody jammed the anchors on. I looked in the mirror to see an HGV bearing down on me at speed, swerving at the last minute into lane 1 when a gap miraculously appeared, I was very shaken as my life flashed before me! Later last week coming across country in the dark a large stag, with full antlers and a really big animal, ran out in front of me. Fortunately I was not going fast and just clipped him as he turned and ran over the fence but smashing a headlight in the process.
These two incidents, particularly the first one, rather made me think. Economy and reliability is all very well but my Corolla did seem very vulnerable and whilst accepting the risk that if your number comes up and all that, is there a chance to reconsider the balance of economy, reliablity and safety? I would happily forego a few mpg, the Corolla does around 46mpg, in return for enhanced safety and protection. A big diesel volvo for example loks to return 40+. A quick look on autotrader suggests that a very nice S80 can be had for around 8k which is what my toyota would be worth. Not so nifty around the lanes perhaps, but brick outhouse style construction. Any other candidates that swing a little more towards safety whilst ticking the economy and reliability boxes?
Thanks MGs Read more
Just to agree with a previous poster about the new shaped avensis.
Couple of years ago saw an accident just happened when said avensis was side swiped and when stopped was hit on the o/s/r corner very hard by a truck, considerable impact speed, but the boot and corner area did its job, and there was no deformation of the passenger area whatsoever, no movement of the door shuts either.
Must say was very surprised and impressed by the strength of the car.
I drive hgv's and i understand fully your feelings about this junction, similar being the M6/A14 junction, what fool decided that a major road junction like that could funnel into a single lane as it goes under the M1 is beyond comprehension.
I bet the designer is living the life of reilly on his index linked pension though.
Can anyone please help.
The warning light 'engine oil sensor faulty' has activated on the dash.
On checking manual, it says; take car to Audi dealer and have the oil level sensor checked.
Can anyone tell me where the sensor is and if it is something I can do myself.
I suspect it is a false reading as the speedo is now playing up, juddering speed reading. Also mileage trip switch not reseting back to zero, and check diagnostic not working. All happened at once.
The amount of rain that fell last night must have either got in or condensation has formed somewhere. Again, grateful if any one can point me in the right direction to say what I might be able to do, to dry/rectify.
Thanks. Read more
No, it's bolted on from the outside. It's because it's in the base of the sump that all the oil falls out - unless you're quick.....
Stick a domestic dehumidifier in the car. Works a treat.
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So regwte are you saying you claim back the difference afterall. Reading your words do not make it clear where you day this needs entering. But it's the tax on the difference you/we would get back.