January 2008
Has the petrol Fusion (1.4 Duratec 16V) got a cam belt or a chain? I can't find reference to the belt replacement in the service guide for this model.
If it is a belt, what is the change period?
It's a 2003 model.
Thanks
Read more
{moved from a 2002 posting that this was tagged onto :-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=8660 - DD}
I think mine's just broken - went to start the car after a couple of weeks, cold weather, engine fired once but now turns over lifelessly with occasional puttering...
It's a August 2000 W reg 1.8s, one owner (me) with 46000 miles - I actually asked te local main dealer last August at the annual service if it would be a good idea to change the cam belt - no, he said, Mazda say 54,000 with no time limit.
If it does turn out to be the belt, is the engine (1.8s) non-interference?
If the valves are damaged, would a good dealer shoulder some cost in view of my direct question about it 4 months ago?
Thanks for any advice...
David Read more
hi,
just a quick one, dont know if youll be able to help!
i have a mazda mx5 1.6 1991, and driving in 5th today at about 25, pulling upto a junction, the cam belt went! great! just wondering if you know what i need to replace it? and whther the valves are knackered! will the kit on mx5 parts plus thermo housing be enough or is there going to be more?
thanks in advance
mark
I have seen reports of poor fuel consumption on the latest Focus, but was appalled to find my new 1.6 petrol model only doing around 34mpg, compared with 39-41 mpg on the previous model.
I bought the car brand new and it has just 1000 miles on the clock. I have just checked the tyre pressures, and found them all at 26psi. After pumping them to the correct 31/33 psi, the fuel consumption has improved to 38mpg on a 200 mile run - an acceptable figure for a tight engine in winter, I think.
I wouldn't have thought wrong tyre pressures would make such a difference, but it's a bit worrying that a Ford main dealer can't get something as simple as this right on a pre-delivery check
Read more
Our 53 plate 1.6 Focus can return up to 45 mpg on a run with 42 MPG a regular reality. Though these engines are a bit gutless unless revved hard.
Hi all,
Just bought an 06 Focus 1.8 diesel and I've noticed when I turn the ignition off, the engine carries on going for about a second, during which the engine car shakes a bit... is this normal for diesels, or indicates some sort of a fault?!
cheers,
MGB Read more
Mine too.....
My '05 Mondeo 130 TDCi does this. Never knew why - thanks, Screwloose & Cheddar, for the explanation. Mine continues to do it, and has just had it's fuel pump replaced.
It only does it for like a second, so I'm trusting that it's a feature, not a failure.
My parents have an A3 as above which has the check engine light on, although it seems to be running OK. I have used VAGCOM which has listed the following fault codes:
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-00 - -
17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Rich
P1137 - 35-00 - -
The DV has been replaced along with all 4 coil packs and the air mass meter (MAF). If the codes are cleared it takes about 10 days for the engine light to come back on, and the same codes to come back.
Any idea on what I should be checking now?
I've heard that it may be the lambda sensor or possibly the temperature sensor, is it possible to test either of these? Read more
Thanks for that i'll try to clean the TB and check the coolant temp at the weekend. I'll post back with the results.
My 2003 D4D with 46000 miles on the clock has had a vibration, accompanied by a roaring sound similar to a blown exhaust, diagnosed by my Toyota dealer as a failed Dual mass flywheel.Cost to replace £1500 or £2000 if I want the clutch done as well. Only thankfull I took out the extended warranty.Am waiting for Engineer from Warranty Co. to sanction repair.I'll keep you informed. Read more
Transits; Mondeo; Most PSA HDi engines; Shoguns; Toyota Hi-Lux and D4D; VAG TDi; all suffer badly from DMF trouble.
As fitting a new clutch to one is a no-no; it means that clutch changes just tripled in cost.
Solid replacement kits are a very dodgy area; they can feel horrible and cause cam-belt wear problems.
Ok, you may have seen my post a few days back regarding our position.
We're having our first baby in May, and are looking for a second car for Lucy to drive around while I'm at work. Lucy is a nervous driver, so size was important, basically, the smaller the better. We really want to buy from an Approved Used dealer, but this has drastically cut down our options, as the dealers don't like putting dodgy cars on their forecourts!
Out budget is now about £3500.
We have two options at the moment.
A Fiat Panda - 05 registration - £3,695 - 15k miles on the clock - Approved Used in Oxfordshire (We're in Swansea)
A Toyota Yaris - 02 registration - £3,500 ono - 15k miles on the clock - Private seller (Name down as a Mrs (married female = good!) - and they're local - Good condition, apparently, haven't seen it yet.
If they were both approved used, I'd go for the Yaris. If the seller is the only owner, she must have been driving round nice and gently for 5 years!
I'd like to know what you guys think.
Cheers Read more
I was tempted by the Panda but rejected it for the same reason I rejected the Grande Punto - the incredibly awkward left foot rest. Maybe it was just down to my size 11s jamming access to the clutch pedal. I had an excellent earlier Punto CVT, very lively and I am sorry I didn't keep it
t.
first quality issue?
www.fiatforum.com/500/131731-good-old-fiat-quality...l Read more
FIAT 500 recalls in France
Well I didn´t find the original article ( French car websites) saying that FIAT would fix the fault at servicing, but I found (dated December 2007) another saying that most 500s since production started are being recalled to have window motors replaced and all are being recalled to have an electronic reprogramming to fix a fault with the seat belt warning light. Here´s the link.
guide-occasion.caradisiac.com/Nouvelle-Fiat-500-qu...9
I was in Italy over the weekend and say loads of 500s. They look good in all colours (although not so sure about the copper).
HJ - saw several in white, and looks good, inside and out !!
Hello,
I am going to change the Clio brake fluid when I change the discs and pads (I know I got the new discs and pads a couple of months ago, just haven't had time!) The Clio handbook does not quote fluid spec, nor does Haynes from what I can see, the only info I have is the lid of the master cyl which says DOT3 or DOT4.
Any thoughts?
I thought about doing the Mondeo brake fluid at the same time (DOT4 Ford spec ESD-M6C-57-A) though the dealer only charges £39.99 inc, its a no brainer, booked in for next week.
Regards. Read more
BW, I might get the Clio fluid changed rather than do it myself, for £40 it is a bit of a no-brainer really though I have bought some fluid.
BT, Comma stuff is top draw, they are one of these companies whose brand does not live up its products as opposed to products not living up to the brand. Accordingly I reckon you would have noticed the colour change with any brand fluid.
Hi all,
Can anyone shed some light on the following...
I have a 2006 130i M-Sport with 14,500 miles on the clock. When the engine is cold, or if it has been driven a short distance, left, then started up some time later, there is an intermittant tappeting noise coming from the engine. The first time i called BMW service out and it didn't make the noise. It went to my local dealer who changed the oil and couldn't find any problem. Since then it has been doing it on an intermittant basis, but ALWAYS when the engine is cold. It's been to my dealer FIVE times now and it is there as i write this. The last time it made the tappeting noise, BMW service came out (again) and confirmed it was the hydraulic tappets. Is there a problem with the engine as i'm worried that it's going to need an engine rebuild of some sort. It's still under warranty but it would be nice to know if my dealer is trying to avoid the cost of such an expensive option. Anyone have any knowledge of what causes the noise or had a similar experience?
Hi welcome to the BR. Deleted the post over in Discussion. Congratulations on being better than most posters in actually including the year and engine in the subject line, many veterans can't get that right ! Read more
Hello
Did you manage to get to the bottom of your problem?
I have a 2006 BMW Z4 with a 3.0 engine. I have reported the same ticking noise coming from the engine at start up. It does not do it everytime but will occur at start up or after short journies when the car is left and started again.
The noise is awful and certianly not normal. It can be a bit embassing too sat at traffic lights.
After 2 visits to the dealer they are now replcaing the Hydraulic Valve Lifters. Luckily its still covered by the warranty. I really hope this sorts out the problem.
I would be interested to hear of anyone else with the same problem.
Arron
Browse
.jpg)
John F
No idea; strangely, you never see inside engines any more.
In the old days there were heads off everywhere; but most of my customers won't even do a head-gasket anymore, preferring to fit a warranteed exchange unit instead.
Colloquial wisdom would suggest that these are Japanese designs; so probably not too many similarities to the DFX - except, perhaps, in spirit.