October 2014
I have recently had a problem with my heater in a ford fiesta always blowing hot air. I had a look at the HCV and found that this was broken (plunger had broke inside) and replaced it. This has not fixed the probem as i'm still getting hot air even on cold. I thought it was a faulty HCV so got another one and still have the problem. When the engine is off and the ignition is turned to on (so the engine is not running) it blows cold air on cold but as soon as you turn th engine on the hot air comes out. The thermostat was changed only a couple of months ago. Have had a look at the control knob and no lose wires behind it. At a bit of a loss as to what to do now. Can anyone suggest anything. Read more
Hello,
Let me introduce myself first. I love driving, yet know very little about cars, therefore seek your help. Greatly appreciated. ... Read more
help im having problems big time i got engine light on and anti pollution on dash car dont past higher than 3000 then the engine cuts out takes 2 to 3 mins before it will fire up again also it runs on after turning key off i have had on a computer to reveal high pressure fuel regulator jammed can the regulator be changed or do i need a new pump thank for any help Read more
See my earlier post.
Hello I wonder if I could get some help wih this. I'm not sure where to start.
The car is a 2002 Grand vitara with the Pug RHZ diesel.... Read more
That was their one and only post and haven't logged on since so I doubt we will hear.
hi, hope someone can help - I need the radio code for my mother's fiesta (not in handbook!)
The serial number is M004481 Read more
Thank you very much!
I now have a job that involves commuting from our local station. In winter months I will not be cycling to the station so will drive. I'm not concerned about theft or damage in the station car park as a few people have told me that it's fine for that, but am more concerned about the mechanical impact of the journey - it is one mile so the car will only be started, driven there, stopped, and same home later thus never getting warm.
I have no issue doing more frequent oil changes & might get the stuff to do them at home, maybe every 5k or so, but am also considering a small cheap car like a £1k golf to do the run in.... Read more
Cheapest small petrol car with 12 months MOT and a sensible service history you can find. So cheap its disposable if necessary. Leave your bike and a warm coat in the boot in case it won't start one day ! Old mk
Something like this: tinyurl.com/l5uasee
I have an eccentric Auntie living in Ireland. And I mean eccentric. In her stables (she has 20+ acres) I was amazed to find a pink RR Corniche, a bit damp and so on, but the engine looks great. ALLEGEDLY it belonged to Marc Bolan but a quick search produced no photographic evidence. It's PSG360P. To the untrained eye it looks well restorable.
I can't tell if the pink is the original colour. It shows signs of respray. And in those days, I guess they didn't have alloy wheels, but these wheels look a bit cheap.... Read more
Quoted from Wikipedia-Bolan never learned to drive, fearing a premature death. Despite this fear, cars or automotive components are at least mentioned in, if not the subject of, many of his songs. He also owned a number of vehicles, including a white 1960s Rolls-Royce that was loaned by his management to the band Hawkwind on the night of his death.
I am not convinced the Vauxhall Lifetime warranty is as good as stated. I took my wife's Agila in for service this week and reported a leak from the radiator reservoir. Both the dealer, Evans Halshaw, and Vauxhall Customer Care have advised this is not covered under the lifetime warranty. They claim this problem is down to how the car has been driven, perhaps over too many bumpy roads. The four year old vehicle is my wife's shopping car and has only done 6,000 miles locally. I am not sure I would treat this lifetime warranty as a reason to buy Vauxhall again, if they try to wriggle out of it for a mere £70 repair what will they be like on major components! Read more
I've owned a few Suzukis and they have never put a foot wrong with basic maintenance following the manufacturers service regime they just seem to go on and on.
I am thinking of putting either Winter or All-Season tyres onto my Countryman All4. Ideally want to keep the tyres on all year. From other answers you seem to think that Vredestein / Conti winters are OK for all year use and not that different to those sold as specific all-season tyres. There are only specific all-season tyres available in correct size (225/45r18) which are a Pirelli (run flat) or Kleber Quadraxer (non run flat).
What would your advice be, and should I stick to run flats or would non-RF be OK ? (which would greatly improve ride, handling AND possible reduce the unbearable noise !) Read more
Have used Kleber Quadraxer before and found them to be superb. They are a genuine 4 seaons tyres with the mountain and snowflake symbol meaning they are certified for use in countries where winter tyres are mandatory. Actually in the process of putting a set on our recently acquired car, cost no more than mid range summer tyres and are just as quiet and long lasting.
I ran non run-flats on my BMW 118D and it was fine. The insurance company were happy provided that all 4 tyres matched i.e. all run flats or all non run flats. I found the ride to be better but that could have also been the simple fact the runflats were 17" and and the non run flats 16". As for the handling it did feel a little less solid than it was on run flats when you presed on but was still fine.
Currently overseas and last night visited a friend who bought a two year old Kia Sportage a few months ago. He mentioned a problem with the car. When the car is locked he can open the boot.
So I went out to the car and tried to open the boot, but it did not. He then tried and it opened. Odd?? Tried again and the boot opened. After a few minutes fiddling around I gave up. ... Read more
We have had three cars in our fleet with keyless entry; a Saab and two Nissans. The Saab had no way of letting you know the car was locked. It unlocked with two pulls of the handle. A waste of time. The Nissans were much better as they had buttons on the door handles and under the boot lid lip. You press the button to lock or unlock and then pull the handle or press another button on the boot to open. A bit of a phaff so we have resorted to using the remote.
I have also found that the stop start button inside is on the left side of the steeering wheel whereas keys usually go on the right. Hence I frequently go the for wrong side, especially as my Ford needs a key in the ignition. So, on both counts a bit of waste of time, as I need to get the keys out of my pocket/briefcase to open the car. I am not a luddite, but some things are an answer looking for a question....
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Glad to hear it's sorted and it's nice you took the time to keep us all updated. So many posters just disappear into the ether once they get their problem sorted, so I for one applaud you.