November 2014
Hi,i was wondering if anyone would be able to shed any light on this problem. I can't open the flap to get to the fuel cap. Is this a motorised mechanism? Because i have an extended warrentee on the car from the place i bought it from as the car is only 4 years old and hasnt even got 30,000 on the clock. They are refusing to repair it as it is only a wear and tear item and not mechanical or electrical. Thanks! Read more
I'm researching buying my next used car (10 years old) and am interested in the range of small turbo diesel engines about such as the Yaris, Clio, Fiesta, Corsa, Astra etc.
I have only owned petrol engines before and these cars are very inviting with their £30 tax and high MPGs.... Read more
Avant gets it, well said that man.
Leadership, including setting an example, has long been the bane of this country, and still is....
i was recently held up in traffic and with out any warning my car started to boil up ,no dashboard warning lights no audio warning ,I checked coolant level this was ok ,the engine coolant fan did not cut in .Having got the vehicle home I shorted out the coolant fan relay and the fan started to work I do not think the thermostat is at fault .i have accessed the hidden menu and the car runs at about 100 C ,I have sinned changed the engine coolant sensor my worry's are that this issue may occur again ant ideas would be appreciated.
Along the same lines I was thinking of purchasing the Delphi DS150E diagnostic tool that a local retailer is selling for £110.00 would this equipment help me solve the fault Read more
Thanks guys to all the advice that you have given ,I have just changed the engine temperature sensor (the one now in is an O/E part) run the engine up and at just over 108c the fan cut and brought the temperature down to 100c I think I have put to issue to bed once again thank you
HI there I have a 56' plate fiat punto grande and the blowers have packed up!! I've tested ALL fuses and their fine, I had my multimeter on the 2-pin plug that goes directly into the fan and it's putting out 12v when the fan switch is on which i'm told is normal (the multimeter draws no current so it stays @ 12v). I've tested the earth connection and thats good too. I've tested the resistance between the 2 pins on the motor itself and even that comes up as 0 (which confuses me) and to finally confuse the hell ouf of me the motor span fine when i took it out and used a couple of spade connectors connected directly to a 12v car battery!!
I've read lots of posts saying that it could be the resistance pack but i'm sure it isn't cos there is power coming through the resistor (as stated above), i've also checked all the connectors of the resistance block, the back of the heater control panel and the fan itself and there's no signs of melting or heat damage.... Read more
HI
WHERE THE BLACK BLOCK CONNECTOR IS IN THE PASSENGER FOOTWELL(BEHIND GLOVE BOX) RUN A WIRE FROM ONE SIDE OF THE BLACK CONNECTOR TO THE OTHER SIDE. BOTH BLACK WIRES. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND DISMANTELED THE WHOLE DASH BEFORE I GOOGLED THE PROBLEM AND FOUND THIS EASY FIX. HOPE IT WORKS FOR YOU.
I have a major problem with the dipped headlights when driving on unlit country roads. The beam has a cut off point at about 45 deg. at the front near side giving a blind spot and is very dangerous. Toyota is aware of the problem as there have been many complaints, they are in complete denial. Toyota we need a fix! Read more
I have a major problem with the dipped headlights when driving on unlit country roads. The beam has a cut off point at about 45 deg. at the front near side giving a blind spot and is very dangerous. Toyota is aware of the problem as there have been many complaints, they are in complete denial. Toyota we need a fix!
That's really odd because if you research the beam pattern for a UK rhd (dips to the left) headlamp there is supposed to be "kick-up" to the left to illuminate the left hand kerb and any pedestrians walking there. It's almost like it has a beam pattern for a European lhd (dips to the right) lamp. Has the model perhaps been fitted with the wrong lamp units?
Hi
Passenger side footwell carpet soaking wet.... Read more
Its worth checking the passenger door for any drain holes at the bottom. All cars allow water to run along the inside of the door skin and out through the bottom of the dor. If these block the water might find its way into the cabin
Also lots of Ka's were driving school cars and dual controls might have left holes in the floor and any sealing that was applied when they were removed might have failed.
Another point, has it got a sunroof? The drains from these can fail.
Having said that my money is on the already mentioned drainage holes below the windscreen. In many cars these block very easily.
My 2009 XF 2.7D Luxury has been displaying the following warning lights:
Gearbox Fault
DSC Not Available
Parking Brake Fault
The low battery light has occasionally come on since I've had the car
Given that the car drove perfectly with these warning lights on and that the car was on it's original 2008 dated battery, I thought that a new battery would cure the problem.
However after fitting a new battery, all the warning lights above came on again AND the Cannot Apply Parking Brake warning light and constant buzzer warning for this comes on when driving. Also, after fitting the new battery the brake lights don't come on! I had a new brake light switch fitted but the brake lights still don't come on!
The low battery warning still comes on occasionally too even though the battery is brand new.
I've taken the car to an independent and a specialist but neither had the latest Jaguar software so it's booked into the main dealer next week.
Greatly appreciate any advice - while the new battery was a waste of time and caused the new problems at least fitting a new battery proved that it wasn't the original battery causing the warning lights.
Given that the new battery hasn't cured it, I'm thinking along the lines of maybe a software upgrade (car hasn't been serviced at main dealer for 18mths) or a computer reset with the latest Jaguar software could possibly resolve the issue?
Thanks in advance Read more
Adam, the guys at jaginfo.org might be able to help. Apart from the brake switch, one cause was a faulty connector under the dash.
Brilliant until 'engine diagnostic light' came on (Oct 2014), and gave to Mercedes Brentford to check it!!
The car drove well since day one, only having to have the glow plugs replaced 18 months ago. Now, after the 'engine diagnostic light' cam on (Oct 2014), I gave the car in to Mercedes Brentford, to check the reason. The car was still driving well even then. The technicians came up with loads of 'faults' including crank and ex back pressure sensors, turbo seals and boost seals leaking, plus gearbox sump gasket leaking. Whilst doing the above, they also changed the V Belt, and the automatic transmission fluid. I ended up paying £1300 for the privilege !!! Three weeks later, on the way back from Portsmouth, the car suffered power loss, and would take ages to accelerate upto 60 mph or more... I took the car to Mercedes Brentford again, and this time they said that the quick test showed that the 'turbo and or manifold' may be required.... And this would cost anything from £1600 to £4000 to fix.. !!! I declined this, as I couldn't afford that kind of payment so soon after paying £1300 only weeks before, and also because the car was driving normallly again, after the engine had been turned off then back on... Another week after this, I find that the 'pre-glow' signal, come on after the engine is started and then remains on for 30 seconds or so after, and then goes back off... The glow plus were all replaced under two years ago!!!
Do you think this could be due to 'improper' work by the Brentford technicians, now that all these problems are appearing suddenly, or could this be an real engine fault. I had written to MBUK, but they were unhelpful in this matter, suggesting that the age of the car goes against it..even though it has low mileage.
The car has only got 45k miles on the clock. Any insight would be much appreciated. Read more
I can highly reccomend Autoelite in Hull. They are ex MB dealer Techs and have saved me a fortune over the years.
Mark...
Hello all
My door mirror has resently died in the folded in position.
I have confirmed there is no power to the connections to the mirror motor and have searched on line for connections to the fuse box.
It looks as if there is a connector just inside the main frame side of the car body (not yet explored).
I have serched for a fuse to this single fault through the Internet without luck.
I have put the fault down to a blown fuse or break in the cable or connector.
If there is a fuse fault can anyone tell me which fuse and and where to find it.
I have looked for a wiring diagram and a service manual without luck. Read more
Is it one mirror or both that have power fold issues.?If it is one,then unlikely to be a fuse.I would suspect a broken wire to the mirror frame or a faulty fold motor.
My niece is planning to have the cambelt changed on her car fairly soon.
I'm not that familiar with this engine and just wondered whether it's recommended that the water pump should be changed at the same time, please? Obviously, a full cambelt kit would be used.... Read more
I can never get my head around how the manufacturer can give a recommended toothed belt interval such as 150,000 miles. How do they know what's going to happen to your engine in that time, or how the car is going to be driven? Some cars will clock up 150,000 miles in 3 years, others will take 20 years. How can anyone seriously think they're the same thing? You should apply common sense with regard to changing the cambelt.
The same applies to servicing. "My car only needs a service every 30,000 miles" says Mr Knowfa, but what he doesn't understand is that it does not mean his car has a 30,000 mile service interval regardless of how long it takes to do them.
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Advice from other posters is good. If you google "polo fuel cap won't open" you will find its a common problem with a variety of solutions depending on what has failed. I did see that one person found that it was a synchronisation issue and that by running through the central locking routine a few times (locking and unlocking a few times in succession) they managed to reset the fuel cap lock. It would be a it if luck if it was that easy but worth a try before you remove trim or squirt WD 40 !