October 2014
Hi
I'm looking to buy a Golf TDI Mk 5. Hopefully one with good mileage and have a few questions if anybody can help so that I get the most reliable engine.... Read more
Hi there,
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Can anyone help with the latest problem on my wife's car? It's a 2012 Peugeot 207 (95) 1.4 petrol and last week the engine warning light came on even though the car was running normally. My wife averages 200 miles per week and does her twice weekly trip of 90 miles on a fast dual carriage in 90mins. We took the car to the main agent and after 2 hours of diagnostics the ECU fault codes were P1336 and P1340 but they didn't have a clue as to why, as the car was running perfectly. They contacted Peugeot Technical who advised that the error codes indicated a "misfire caused by short journy use" despite being told by the main agent that there was no misfire and that the car was mainly used on fast journeys.The main agent have reset the ECU and the engine management light is now working normally. At Peugeot Tech's behest we have got to fill up from empty with Shell V Max or similar premium fuel and return the car to the main agent who will add a fuel system service additive to the tank, change the engine oil and download the ECU and hope that cures the problem. Has anyone any idea what the hell is going on??? I'm wondering if Peugeot just want to keep it running until the warranty expires in March 2015. I'm sorry for the length of this post but I've tried to make sure all the facts are included. Read more
Unfortunately this is the nature of modern electronically controlled cars. If its driving OK I wouldn't worry about at least until the guarantee is about to expire.
My Ford servicing agent says : Transmission oil is due for Change after 40000 miles or
3 years, whichever is the sooner; cost £250 to £300. my vehicle is coming up to 3 Years... Read more
I would agree with the principle of changing the oil regularly on a gearbox (whatever its type).
But £250 to £300 sounds very expensive to me. Find out how much the manufacturers own oil is and get a quote from an independant to carry out the change....
Hi... Read more
Another favourite for peculiar noises from the suspension is road dirt, grit / debris on the coil spring seat base. I've had some cars where a bit of road flint is stuck between the strut and coil spring and when the spring is compressed by cornering, it grates.
My Pug 205 developed a creak a few months ago, which was most noticeable when pulling away in lower gears, but inaudible when rolling gently along in neutral - so probably not suspension as such. However since losing the car on a patch of diesel and hitting the crash barrier, the creak has been cured. Any suggestions? :-)
I have intermittent power loss which strangely is corrected by switching the ignition off then on again.
I have spoken to other owners who have the same problem. I have had the EGR replaced the Air mass meter also the ECR control valve. The issue remains. The car has done 145kmiles.... Read more
Totally agree with the above. Plugging into VCDS and going for a drive whilst monitoring live data will confirm an overboost problem. I have it and I'm in Hampshire if that helps you.
Innotec Turbo Clean is an excellent product for addressing this issue. I've used it many times and it's cured it every time. Read the instructions carefully before you do the job, and follow them exactly. Also make sure the engine is cold when you do it.
I have just bought a new Fiat 500s 1.2 and find it impossible to make a hill start without excessive revving and seriously slipping the clutch until the car fills with a burning smell.
After discussions with the dealer and Fiat customer services they say that there is nothing wrong with the car and that I made a mistake in buying a car with too small an engine and that I just need to get used to it.... Read more
Interesting. Wy wife swapped her 500 in April for a new one and we have noticed the same problem. The car also appears to hesitate when driving at fairly low revs. We had no problems with her previous car which I guess did not have the Euro6 engine.
Hiya. My van normally runs a a very consistent low temp of 40. Its just bin to the garage re renewing the anti-freeze, they said the thermometer was stuck closed, which they replaced & few other bits & said something they did would make it run a bit hotter quicker. Now its on a consisent 85 degrees. They say this is fine (as is anything up to 90 or 100), but i know this is hot for my usually cool running engine & another mechanic says running it at 85 all the time will damage it & sounds like an air-lock in the water. Which mechanic is right? Any informed advice welcome! Thankyou! Read more
Hi I know it’s been a long time since you had van repaired but if you don’t mind telling what they did to fix the problem In the beginning when the temp was staying at 40 as mine is doing the same and I would like my sprinter to run at around 90degrees. I have had water pump changed and replaced thermostat and radiator. Or if you can tell me where you got the van repaired. Thank you very much. Or if someone cam help please. Thanks
In advance
Top gear
What's all the fuss about?... Read more
More damning evidence this was all planned "as good old British schoolboy humour", without regard to international diplomacy or sensitivities, or local or indeed uk law.
The annoying thing is that Clarkson gets free publicity and pumps up his bank balance with this sh........
Hi,
I've got an intermittent problem with my VW polo
It always starts fine first thing in the morning when it is cold but occasionally if i've gone out in the car and left it some where for anything from 5 minutes it wont start. If I leave it until it cools down it will start no problem.
I first noticed something was wrong when I took the car for a spin and as I was slowing down near a junction the engine simply died leaving me stuck in the middle of the road. I left the car for about 10-15 mins to cool and then it started up fine again. This was dangerous - the engine cutting off whilst driving.
The above happended twice - engine dying whilst driving. Since then the problem with the engine struggling to start when its warm has been intermittent. I've since had the car serviced and the distributor cap replaced but the problem is no where resolved.
I've read a few forums which state it could be a faulty distributor hall sensor or temp seonsor. I took it to the garage and he tested the temp sensor using some diagnostic and he says it fine showing at 75 when hot. Are these diagnostic test accurate? Usually the temp gauge should settle around 90 but mine only ever reaches 75. He says it is fine as diagnostic reading is same as what is showing on temp gauge.
He thinks it could be a faulty relay or crank sensor.
Any one have any ideas or comments on this please? Read more
Hall sensors don't tend to suffer intermittent faults. They either work or they don't. If the hall sensor had failed then you would have no HT spark, no fuel pump and no fuel injector switching. Next time you have the problem check to see if any of these are missing. If the problem is with the hall chip they'll all be missing.
Check the fuse box for signs of a poor connection. That's a common fault on these cars. So are ignition switch failures. Does the fuel pump ever fail to run? If not the relay won't be the cause of the fault. The easiest way to check injector switching is with a noid lamp. They're cheap to buy and have many uses.
The problem could also be flooding. This isn't uncommon on a partially warm engine. Does the exhaust smell of neat fuel, and does the engine crank like it lacks compression? All things to check when the fault next occurs.
Browse
Sound advice Rob. Had numerous electrical alerts on my A 4 and took Elecie Docs advice and changed the battery .
When my alternator failed it was the clutch mechanism which a auto electrician can change and save fifty percent on the replacement cost. But often an indie wants a quick fix with a warranty.