November 2014

paulc924

Now that these are "de rigeur" I am horrified to see cars driving around at night with them on and no other lights. I have came up to unlit vehicles from behind much to my surprise and later see that they are using DRL at the front. This is very worrying. Read more

daveyjp

I've just followed a dark grey Evoque for 4 miles on a 50mph road with no street lights. There was no lighting at all on the rear.

At a set of lights I pulled alongside and advised the silver surfer motorist that he had no lights on. His answer was 'yes I have, the dash is lit up' and drove off!

julie page

My sister was recently involved in a accident with two 13 year olds on a cycle, one was riding it the other was sat on the handle bars. They were going so fast the bonnet is dented, along with the wing and scraped through to the metal as well as one of the headlight is cracked.

The police who attended blamed the accident on the two lads and CCTV shows the lads riding into my sisters car.... Read more

Armitage Shanks {p}

If you did go the route of small claims court they will either not turn up or will turn up and simply say they can't afford to pay.

If they don't turn up you will probably get a judgement by default but you will still have a problem geting any money a court has ordered them to pay. I went down this route years ago. Got a judgement by default, no payment, got the bailiffs round and they were going to take the man's TV away 2 days before the World Cup began, payment very quickly forthcoming!

Rob04

Hi, I have a 2002 ford ka with the endura engine about 85k miles. a few days ago it went from running well to develop a heavy missfire, will not pull and the engine light has come on. with the engine running lumpy I can remove plug lead 2 and 3 and nothing changes, but when removing 1 or 4 the engine cuts out.

I have replaced the plugs, leads, coil pack, but the situation is still there. Any ideas?

Thanks Rob.
Read more

Railroad.

Even without a compression tester you should be able to get a good idea of whether or not it has good compression on the two cylinders that aren't firing. Disconnect the crankshaft sensor to prevent the engine from starting and then crank it over. If it's obvious that it's cranking unevenly then you should suspect a loss of compression on the two adjacent cylinders, most likely caused by a failed head gasket.

If the comprssion is ok then next thing to do is to reconnect the crankshaft sensor and check for an HT spark on cylinders 1 & 4, and also on 2 & 3. The ignition coil is actually two coils in one pack. One side fires cylinders 1 & 4 and the other side fires cylinders 2 & 3. As has already been said these pairs fire together, known as wasted spark. If you have no spark on 2 & 3 then locate the plug on the side of the coil. The centre terminal is a common 12 volt supply to both sides of the coil. Theres's not much point in checking for this because you know the engine does run, and therefore this power supply must be present. The outer two wires are the ECM negative return to switch each coil. If one side is switching and the other side isn't then you need to check the wiring back to the ECM, or the ECM has a failed transistor inside and will need to be replaced. It will not be the first time one of these ECMs has failed in this way if it has.

oldtoffee

I'm hoping and planning to semi-retire in 3 to 4 years when I'll be 65. My existing company car will be traded in in 9 months time. I'll have the opportunity to buy my next company car after 3 years and this will be my retirement car to be used 1 day a week for work and the rest for visiting relatives and several drives down to Normandy and a couple to south of France each year. I currently do about 24k miles a year and that will reduce a bit to around 20k. I'll need a large estate for our large dog and all our clobber, something Mondeo sized or bigger is probably best. Because of the mileage and French derv prices it should be diesel with a decent bit of power and I'd much prefer an auto but I read here and other places of quite a few modern auto box horror stories so manual would be possible. Cruising motorways will make up 95% of its miles so comfort first and hopefully half decent economy. I'm thinking if I run it from new and service it properly and continue to do that I'd like to get it to 10 years and 200,000 miles without any big repairs. My budget will be around £27,500 for buying it outright on the company. That brings in quite a few cars listed at over £30k as I've found it straight forward getting a main dealer to match broker prices. So that suggests mid range C Class, A4, then bigger and probably mores suitable Mondeo, Passat, Octavia, Superb. I don't like the i40 or Ceed estate, looks and small engines. £10k off a V70 brings it almost within reach! I might consider Japanese but on here they get bit of a slagging off so I'd take some persuading. Could just hand it back at 3 years and buy a Logan MCV with 5 years warranty but that's not going to give me the long journey comfort. I know this is a bit premature but I shall be doing quite a bit of research over the coming months so any and all ideas much appreciated. Read more

oldtoffee

Thanks everyone.

bazza - Kia Sorrento - we used to have a Santa Fe, nearly the same car, same 2.2 diesel, TC auto, great value. I used to get 32 mpg on a run and it is fairly noisy at cruising speeds and very firm riding, too much so for my future needs. I know what you mean about complexity of modern diesels I was hoping for an inspired shout on something new'ish that could maybe rack up the miles painlessly like the old Merc diesels and the VAG 1.9 PDs did for so many taxis....

MattyKo

I have recently noticed that there is alot of water in the footwells of my ford fiesta. I first noticed this some time ago but throught it was just excess rain coming in. However since this time the heater blow has become dysfunctional. To this end I changed the COOLANT VALVE however this has not corrected the problem.

I have been told that the HEATER MATRIX requires replacing, which in all honesty I tend to believe to be the problem, this been the source of the water intruding into the footwells.... Read more

alastairq

Check the heater plenum drain pipe.

This can be found under the carpet, just to the left of the clutch pedal, behind the centre consol....

MattyKo

M045774 Read more

Galaxy

www.pumapeople.com/decode.php

2-stroke

I purchased the following vehicle from Arnold Clark, Nissan, Perth, Dunkeld Road, Perth, PH1 3XJ... Read more

RT

Have you discussed it yet with the sales manager at the dealer?

nick62

I have a Samsung "smart" TV which has an internet connection and is fabulous for watching programmes via the built-in apps (iPlayer, More4, etc.), however, the ITV player is (and always has been) totally useless!

The programmes load and the advertisments play exactly as expected, but the acual programs stream in slow-motion until they crash and the next advertisment comes on, (again in perfect clarity).... Read more

dan86

Sound's like a software issue. Is the TVs Software up to date? Is the ITV player software up to date?

mikan500

hi.

I've just purchased the media pack and reverse camera for my hyundai santa fe 2010.... Read more

lundee

Hello there,

I recently purchased a 2006 Ford KA. Lights on the dash were out so we pulled out the fuses to check over, but in doing so this re set the radio. It has locked itself and wont work without a code. I have checked everywhere for it, including pulling out the radio and the manual - its nowhere to be found. I have the serial number which is M039398....How can I get the radio working again?... Read more

MattyKo

Also looking for my radio code for a T Reg Ford Fiesta M045774