October 2014
I am looking for some advice about a messy situation I've inadvertently got myself into.
Around 3 Weeks ago I was stopped by the police, it turns unbeknownst to me the insurance had run out on my vehicle. Its due to a chain of regrettable events, my insurance company had contacted me to talk about a renewal, however I had been at work at the time and asked them to call back, they never did. I stupidly assumed it had renewed and carried on, I had completely forgotten that the company had my old address on their records so all correspondence had been sent to them.... Read more
I recently had a major service done on my wife's Outlander (2009 60k miles VAG 2.0 diesel engined). I decided it would be sensible to get all the transmission fluid changed (rear diff, transfer box and gearbox). The gearbox, I was told, is not necessary and I discussed with the main dealer service agent that I find it hard to believe that an oil can retain it's properties forever which he did agree with. Anyway, we had the oil changed but since then 1st and 2nd gear are stiff to engage. It's going back in for them to have a look, but they insist they will have used the right grade oil. I'm beginning to wonder whether chaning the oil was such a good idea. I'm expecting some reply along the lines of "we've used the right oil, the old oil had thinned, the box has worn and the fresh oil is exposing this wear. We can strip the box down and look for worn parts" Not sure I want to go down that expensive road.
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Modern gear oils do not need changing unless the manufacturer specifies it. Unlike engine oils which become contaminated with combustion by products, fuel, etc. etc. gear oils have a much easier life. Any small bits of swarf are trapped on the magnet in the bottom. Last time I removed a gearbox from a car it had covered over 100,000 miles and the oil looked new.
I would suspect that the dealer has used the wrong oil or the manufacturer has changed specs. Either way it should not mean a rebuild of the box, you just need the same oil as before.
So I broke something on my Chevvy (Daewoo) Lacetti, which someone told me was the PCV valve, which looks like the right part:
www.ebay.com/itm/PCV-Valve-Standard-V370-fits-04-0...f... Read more
I had to go through a few parts shops and garages, but I did find a chap at a shop that knew what I wanted and ordered it for me. It's all sorted now.
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Hello. all. This is my forst proper car. So im in learning mode hear. trying to do as much reserach as possible to get my beutiful astra somewhere back to its fomer glory (on a budget) I still have alot to learn. Im hoping someone here might be able to answer a few questions I have...
Is there a way I can find the correct Part Numbers of each part I need to replace on my Vauxhall Astra G Petrol 1.4 16V (2001)? ie a web site or similar.... Read more
The ecu behind the front bumper is for the cooling fans and aircon system(if fitted).
That is very interesting and thank-you for clarifying what exact ECU is located behind the front bumper. I thought that was the engine ECU. I now know it is for the cooling fans and aircon system. My car does indeed have AC which is not working at present. but is something im looking to get fixed....
The heater fan on my 3 year old V60 (just out of warranty!) failed yesterday; clicking relays could still be heard This morning on starting, there was a "Low Battery" warning. This afternoon I took it in to the local Volvo dealer who offered a "quick look", (30 mins), as getting at a failed fan involved removing the dash. I had another appointment and after an hour asked "how much longer". I was told that he would get the mechanic to "reassemble the parts". The car was returned with no diagnosis/comment. I asked if a "diagnostic check" had been carried out and the answer was "no". The “low battery” warning was dismissed “as it is set at 75% of full charge”. I was advised, but not offered, to book a further appointment. There was no charge. (Coincidentally another customer with a failed heater was being served and he was advised that the costs were at least £500 as the dash had to be removed!)
I left the dealership wondering... Read more
Sadly, I suspect that the operative word in your last sentence is 'were'. There is just so much electronic trickery to go wrong in cars nowadays.
In fairness Volvos are probably no worse than any others - but time was when as you say they lasted a lot longer than most others. Older Volvos still do, but that honourable mantle has now perhaps been taken over by Toyota.
All cars over three years old need an MOT certificate when they are sold.
All cars made before 1960 dont need an MOT certificate to be road legal.... Read more
As said by others, at present a 1936 Austin 7 is exempt from testing. But one can still get a voluntary MOT and my guess is you might find it a little bit easier to sell with a recent test pass.
I parked a bit too close where there was bushes/branches, Will it scuff,scratch the bumper/bonnet/front of the car?
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I drove my car in the rain this morning, will the water damage the body, tyres engine etc.
Should I consider selling it and buying a new one which I would keep dry if necessary....
Hello all,
Regular forum user but first time on here! Any help and advice gratefully received.
I have been asked to help a couple near me sell two elderly BMWs.
A 1990 325i 2 door, and a 1989 318i four door.
I'm aware that the E30 3 Series still has quite a following, and was just after some advice as to whether there is a website or business in the SW that might specialise in old Beemers.
The 325i is in okay nick. Some surface rust on wings with one hole on the offside. One of the seats needs patching up.
The 318i has had a respray and looks good, but has been stored for four years and is a non-runner at the moment. I've suggested a mechanical inspection to ascertain what would need sorting to get it moving again.
Both have big mileage.
I have an idea of a rough value for them both, but think the problem might be getting people interested enough to come and have a look - near Bristol.
Any thoughts guys?
Cheers,
Dunc
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Hi Dunc,
Thanks for the offer but at that price I'm out - I had figured on about half that but I guess they are more sought after than I first tought....
Observations of running different budget 4x4s,having had numerous cars .the best car I've had for practicality and reliability is the completely under the radar renault koleos....I understand its nissan x trail underneath with all the renault kit they generously give you....and built by samsung in Korea? Has anyone else had experience with this car? Read more
Since September 2000, Renault Samsung Motors in Busan South Korea has been a subsidiary of Renault, although Samsung maintains a minority ownership.
Ever since I bought the car nearly a year and a half ago I have had no problems. Started every single time. Two days ago, however, the car struggled to start and turned a few times before finally starting. Today it wouldn't start at all and just keeps making a turning noise. This eventually dies if I leave the ignition turned for long enough. I tried to jump start it by hooking it up to another car but it did nothing.
I don't really know cars that well and so I don't know what it could be! It was working perfect fine before!... Read more
Could be a battery problem.Using jump leads from another car does not always work.You need to get it checked properly.
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Mate that is reassuring, are you certain that the endorsment would be showing with the DVLA - wouldn't it be left clean until after a hearing at a magistrates court?