March 2012
Just changed clutch on Renault Megane 2005 DCi but now do not have a pedal, goes all the way to the floor with little or no resistance. We suspected the M/C so put a new M/C on & vacum bled, ezi-bled & traditional foot pumping method. But still not getting anywhere, anyone any ideas?
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hi there
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1998 Ford Fiesta 1.3 encore fuel pump problems
I have been experiencing problems with my daughters fiesta fuel pump. Initially the fuse for the pump kept blowing when trying to start it, fit a new fuse and it would fire up first time and work fine for weeks then blow again, fit a new fuse and would start fine. After reading the threads on here with some great advice which indicated possible problems with either the fuel pump, fuel filter or a bad electrical connection. I decided to fit a new fuel filter first, easiest and cheapest thing first. This had no effect the fuse still kept blowing so decided to fit a new fuel pump. I cut an access hole in the floor under the seat and fitted the new fuel pump rather than removing the tank. I also checked the electrical connection which was fine. Put it all back together and it started first time. Daughter went out in it for a couple of miles and it cut out and wouldn't start. I went to get it and it started first time. I went for a logger drive in it and it cut out 3 times, eventually starting each time if you left it long enough. Eventually got it home and was head scratching as it wouldn't start at all. Decided to check everything, had a spark, had power to the fuel pump but noticed that the new pump was not making any noise. Took the fuel pump out and connected it to the supply out of the car and still no sound. Thought I had a faulty new pump but looked at the electrical connections on the pump and found that 2 of the connector blocks had not been pushed home fully, after doing this I reconnected the pump to the electrical supply and bingo it fired into life. Refitted everything and went for a long test run and everything was fine. Makes me think if the old pump had loose connections as well, too late now as thrown away. If you are fitting a new pump make sure you check the electrical connections as getting to the pump is time consuming especially if you remove the tank for access.
Wondering if anyone has had this problem and rectified.
Since changing my oil + filter when starting my car the oil ilght goes off then comes on for around 5 secs then goes off, I have changed the oil and filter twice 5-30 first and 5-40 second. I have also bought from Vauxhall the full black cap with filter attached + pressure switch still same may stop on slightly longer after second oil change, checked the pressure 50 psi idle up to 100 psi when reved. may be my imagination but the engine seems to be getting slightly noisier. could it be the filter that is draining back when left, this happens if left over 2 hrs. mileage 25000... Read more
Oil pump wear state isn't likely to be significantly different before and after an oil change, unless it wore rather fast in a short time, in which case its likely not long for this world.
I suppose it could have just slowly deteriorated to the point of showing the symptom, which was, by coincidence, just after an oil change, but it seems a bit unlikely.
Hi I get 20p a mile fuel plus a monthly car allowance. Can anyone recommend a reliable efficient car about £8000 max?
I do about 1000 miles a week.... Read more
Sounds like a good choice, pkqpr. Good luck with it.
Yes, still organist at Sonning-on-Thames, Xileno - well remembered! Been there for 34 years, for the first 20 or so of which one is the 'new organist'.
Hi,
I'm thinking about buying a 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi estate, it has 55,000 miles on the clock and FSH.... Read more
72k then you must change the DPF strange that the these go on to 200k and are never touched and a 1000pounds is about three times what they cost to replace.Some people mention DMF or DPF and everybody is supposed to quiver with there cheque book ready.
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I drove back from a 100 mile journey and just as I had parked up I had noticed that the tickover noise was very loud. It makes no difference as to whether the car is cold or warm. I've only had the car for 2 weeks now (and 700 miles)
Googling reveals that my intake manifold could be knackered (something to do with butterfly valves). it's an 04 plate with 63k (FSH).
This youtube video is exactly what my engine sounds like; www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O8qSw4dxII
TSB from mazda: www.mazda3club.com/showpost.php?p=363453&postc...6
The one thing I cant figure out is; is this causing any harm in any way, shape or form? I can learn to live with the sound - as I dont fancy replacing my manifold just to 'get rid of the noise' Read more
So the manifold was replaced on tuesday (2 days ago); found one from a breakers. The sound has gone
Initially it made the engine management light come on after driving it for a mile - took it back to the garage and they said the fault code was "lean burn on idle" ; ther double checked the vacuum connections and concluded it was a faulty manifold but it would do no harm driving it whilst another was sourced....
I have a Clio 2003 1.2 16v and it wont start most days, I have fuel and fuel pressure to the rail but it still wont start. I have 4 spare injectors and fuel rail with injectors still attached and have connected the multiplug from cyl 4 to the injector on the spare rail and also connected the fuel line to it and when I turn it over no fuel spraying from the injector. I was wondering if it maybe the engine control relay but cant decide which one it is, which is in the box located by front passenger headlight. Any help most appreciated. Car will fire up briefly if I spray easystart into air filter housing which proves fuel not getting through. Desperate for help as I need the car for work also I have done a diag test which shows throttle pedal fault but as my wife has the same car I have fitted the pedal from this and still the same problem and my one is OK in her car any help or advice most appreciated to tonylawleruk@aol.com
Moved to Technical.
My car is supposed to have a fuel tank capacity of 45 litres. The gauge shows" full"," half full", "quarter full" and the red section. I believe the gauge is calibrated incorrectly because it always takes quite a lot less to brim the tank than the gauge would suggest. For example, when it was showing a quarter full, eleven litres on the gauge, I could only get twenty seven litres in to brim the tank so there must have been eighteen litres left. This is a nuisance when I am on a journey as it means I refuel more often than I need to. I always refuel when the gauge goes into the red but I actually have a lot of safe miles left still. The reserve must actually hold a lot of fuel, eleven litres which is a big percentage on a 45 litre tank. Has anyone else experienced this with a 2007 Corsa or is it peculiar to mine? I have never had this problem with any other car I have owned. Thanks in advance. Read more
SWMBO and daughter and my mother all own 2007 Corsas and fuel gauges stick from time to time after fill-ups. Vauxhall electronics I'm afraid (central locking systems, dash instruments, courtesy lights, 02 sensors all take on a life of their own but th e women in my life love their Corsas).
Hello
I replaced clutch and flywheel a couple of years ago but now i think the clutch is slipping. It couldn't be done already! How can i fix this and how can i get to the root of the problem to stop it happening again?... Read more
Cable or hydraulic?
I found the following post on another website:
I am currently running a Peugeot Partner 1.9D (DW8 engine) for work, on 100% diesel, it has never seen anything other than pump diesel....
However, it has developed a fault whereby it will ALWAYS idle at around 1100rpm, regardless of running temperature. It used to run at 1100rpm on cold start and then drop to 900rpm at idle when warmed up, but this no longer happens. Since this fault has occured, it is also a lot slower than the other vans in the fleet which are identical, in as much as that it is about 5mph slower top speed, will not rev so freely, or over 4000rpm without a real struggle.
I am guessing this is all because it is now constantly always running rich due to being stuck on a cold start setting...
Any ideas on which components would cause this problem on the DW8, as I'm not that familiar with the engine setup on this...... Read more
The ECU and its sensors may be responsible.....Take it to a main dealer for ECU diagnostic check, latest software update may fix this issue.
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There is an old bike mechanic trick that may work,a decent sized syringe filled with brake fluid.,clear the air out like you see Dr's ontv do an connect to the bleeder and slowly plunge the syringe,master cap off,
Theory is the fluid and air in it are pushed UP and back through the system into the master ,never seen this fail,some bike master cyl's are really small and bleeding can take for ever.