January 2012
Hi my dad had the battery changed in his car and now the radio is asking for a code but the code innthe manuel isntnworking and is making me wait 30 minutes before i an try again i was wondering could anyone help me with some sort of mastercode the serial number for the readio is m196286 could you please email to me as im not sure how to use this if i get a reply my email address is joe_lfc06@msn.com thannks. Read more
My engine mis-fires when idling for a minute or two, but only when the engine is hot. If I stop and re-start the engine, it runs fine again for another minute or two before mis-firing again. When driving, the engine runs perfectly fine and does not feel sluggish or anything. There are no start-up issues either.
Looking at the rev counter, it seems to drop (not suddenly) to around 700 RPM when the mis-fire happens.... Read more
Tell me about it!
The car has just short of 130,000 miles on the clock (I've had it from new) so the timing chain probably needed changing anyway. I know Volkswagen don't have a set change interval, but the chains on these engines aren't as maintenence free as they suggest....
Soot is a clear enemy of the modern diesel as it blocks EGR devices and DPF but how do you avoid making the soot in the first place?
I have heard four theories:... Read more
I have to congratulate the OP as i never thought such a boring topic would end up with so many replies.
I replaced the fuel filter the other month on my 2003/53 2.2 Di Sport Diesel X-Trail and since then I have not been able to obtain the consistent performance I had previously. Genuine Nissan filter was used.
Whilst the engine always starts first time and idles smoothly, intermittently and when under load, i.e. accelerating up hill or towing, it will loose power in 3rd or 4th gear requiring a premature change down to 2nd in order to maintain progress. If I leave it in 3rd or 4th the power will intermittently surge.
The problem I’m sure is down to fuel starvation caused by air in the fuel system that wasn't there before the filter change.
I have primed the system by removing the fuel filter outlet pipe ensuring no bubbles remain and then reconnect the pipe continuing to prime until the priming pump goes ‘hard’. However if left for 5 seconds it will go soft again and will take a few more pushes. I then start the engine and continue to prime for a few minutes in case any air is stuck beyond the filter.
This process fully restores the performance for a few weeks only for it to slowly revert to its previous state.
I have checked the filter housing/priming pump by installing a clear fuel pipe to the outlet, that loops higher than the filter, and there are no bubbles whilst engine is running.
What I do notice is when the engine is switched off a large bubble appears from the direction of the fuel pump and sits at the top of this loop. It clears when the engine is started but returns when stopped. I’m not sure if this is normal behaviour or whether it has anything to do with my intermittent issue? On disconnecting the clear filter outlet pipe the fuel immediately drains away, I assume back to the tank via the return pipes, again I assume this is normal too? - but the filter remains full as expected so the non-return valve is working ok.
So to diagnose this further my questions are :-
1/ Should the priming pump stay hard until the engine is started?
2/ Does it make any difference if the ignition (engine not started) is on when priming?
3/ Is it normal to have to continue to prime once the engine has started?
4/ Should an air bubble rise from the direction of the fuel pump to the fuel filter outlet when the engine is stopped? Or do I still have an air lock/leak maybe in the fuel pump area?
5/ Should the fuel drain away from beyond the fuel filter if I disconnect the filter outlet pipe or should it hold there waiting for the main fuel pump to suck it in and compress it?
All hose connections are tight and there are no obvious fuel or air leaks in the system that I can see.
I would welcome any comments, observations or advice so I can resolve this issue once and for all, and hopefully help others who are experiencing this frustrating problem. Thanks in advance.
Hi Brian,
A couple of years ago!! You reported some probs with your xtrail in particular running problems, after you changed your fuel filter, at the end of the thread you said that you had changed SCVs and the problem seems to have cleared is this still the case and or have the problems returned and of course this all depends on wether you still have the vehicle
Thank you
Please help me. I have a fiesta 1.25 zetec suffering from juddering /misfire problems when accelerating ,it happens in all gears.I broke down in heavy rain last week when the car started juddering over 50mph and felt like a loss of power, aa came out as i could not restart the car. They fitted a new coil pack and car worked fine for 40 miles till the juddering come back , this time the enigine warning light came on.
I put the car in to a local garage and they stuck it on a machine to clear the fault and find out the error code, it come up maf sensor so they fitted a new one the cleaned the computer again.The engine warning light has now gone and not come back but the juddering has. The car starts fine which it did not with warning light on unless i gave it some gas for about a min else it would cut out. I spent £140 on it so far , and totally lost where to go next. Would new leads and spark plugs help as they not been changed for 3/4 years. car has had new air filter and oil changed in the last 3 months Read more
I have a 2001 fiesta ztec s 1.25 when I brought it it ran a dream for 4 weeks then started juddering when accelerating I thought it was the maf sensor until I realised this model did not have one so started looking at crankshaft and cam shaft sensors I cleaned them both checked the throttle sensor seemed fine and after all the research I checked my ht leads because I could hear I missing from the exhaust, number 1 ht lead I took off and it did make a slight difference but not as much as the other 3 I think because the car had been sat it was shorting to number 2 ht lead so I swapped the coil pack for the leads and it was problem solved but everyone told me that wouldn't be the problem, I think it was just a week spark from it the car had been sat for months before I brought.
I've been reading all the threads on DPF problems, but wonder which manufacturers have fewer problems with them and why? Read more
The diesel i drive pulls strong up to 5k
However, italian tune ups dont do anything apart from add to the problem. You are just dumping a whole load soot that wasn't needed.
Get it working in the max torque range, keep it burning efficiently, accelerate hard within max torque and make sure the coolant temperature reaches a level where an active DPF purge can begin.
I guarantee short journeys will significantly reduce the life of the DPF regardless of make/model.
I was quite happy like a lot of drivers running around in my Honda Accord Diesel (05 plate and 95,000 miles) with my VSA light on for the last 18 months knowing it won't effect the MOT and not paying Honda the £1,600 they wanted for this crappy part.
I new it wouldn't last. The new MOT rules has b****d that up. I went to Honda dealer, they phoned Honda UK and I got a new VSA modulator inc fittings and vat for £800 as a goodwill gesture. Not bad. Now I am starting to hear the dreaded rattle of the timing chain which along with the clutch, flywheel and cracked manifold is a major isue particularly with the 04-05 Diesel Accord. The car is 7 years old and has 2 months to go before the warranty expires on the free timing chain replacement under Honda extended warranty.... Read more
Thanks Avant I am now seriously considering a petrol for this very reason. However I 'thought' that Hondas were supposed to be pretty bullet proof and that this particular issue related only to the i-CDTi engines and not the i-DTEC - can anyone confirm or otherwise?
I had an issue with that VW ABS legendary problem a week after buying a Golf some years ago and it's one I am not keen to repeat.
HELP! fuel emissions light is on, car not driving properly at all, shuddering is the best way to describe it! no power. took it to mechanic where it showed a problem with fuel injector 3. injectors have been removed and tested and they're fine! egr valve, air flow meter, pump, wiring to the injectors, and everything else the mechanic can think would be causing the problem has been checked. He's stumped. when injectors were put back in and car put on computer again Fuel Injector 3 showed as a fault again. there are 4 valves behind/under the injectors, 2 of which have been bolted down! Mechanic hasn't seen this b4. does this make any sense to anyone?? Would anyone have any idea what could be wrong? Read more
Appreciate the feedback folks, thanks.
Hi all, when I open the driver's door on my golf the light in the door card doesn't come on and neither do the courtesy lights or the dash display to say the door is open. Also, if I don't put the key in the ignition within 30 seconds the alarm goes off. The door lights and courtesy lights come on when you open all the other doors so is there a sensor in the driver's door that needs changing or something as there are no plungers to change like on the older cars? Read more
Thanks for the help guys and those links VR6 are superb.
Hi Guys
Im currently driving a 53 Hyundai Coupe 2.0. It's a great car and really reliable but running costs (petrol and tax mainly) are becoming a bit daft now. I'm looking at a '56'-'57' plate astra but unsure which engine to go for. The 1.4 offers better reliability and slightly cheaper insurance but I'm worried it's going to be far too underpowered. Does anyone have first hand experience of either and have an idea of the economy I can expect from a 1.6? I've read all the book figures and there doesn't seem a lot in it but just wondered if anybody had first hand experience?... Read more
I've found a lovely astra but it's a 1.8. However it is the VVT engine. Anyone know/reckon this will make any difference to fuel economy?
See my post immediately above yours.
Browse
.jpg)
Link removed and Poster de-activated.