October 2011
Hi all - can anyone give me a steer on connecting a heated rear screen in my son's MX-5, please as, thanks to some knife-wielding idiot, he's had to have a new hood fitted and has gone for a glass HRW rather than the plastic version.
I'm OK with the dashboard end as that appears to be just a case of plugging a new switch into the appropriate socket that sits behind one of the blanking plates. However I have a choice of 4 existing sockets towards the rear of the car, plus 2 narrow sockets at the ends heater element on the new screen.
In addition to the dash switch, I believe I'll need a 30A relay and a fuse block but I'm not sure where these will plug into. I guess it would become obvious which goes where if I were to buy Mazda items but I'd like to save a few quid and use Halfords ones if poss but, because I'm not sure which connector(s) to use, I don't know which relay / fuse block to go for, i.e. 4-pin, 5-pin, etc. I'm also wondering what rating of cable I'll need for the job.
There's an existing female connector just behind the passenger seatbelt post, then there are 2 'spare' connectors by the battery in the boot; one white/opaque with wiring of 1-2 mm thickness attached and a black one with approx 4 mm thick wiring, presumably carrying a heavier current. I believe one of these two would be used when an electric aerial is fitted, however this car has a manual 'screw-in' aerial. Finally, there's a further black 'spare' connector just behind the carpet in the boot, close to the number plate.
Excuse the lengthy post - I'm sure this is an easy job once I know which of the car's connectors come into play, and would like the satisfaction of doing it myself if I can.
Many thanks Read more
I am having problems with the parking brake and rear calipers. One or both of my rear wheels seem to be binding slightly and I am trying to work out what is causing this. I have to pull my handbrake right up in order for the parking brake to kick in and even at that it does not operate efficiently. When I took the car for it's pre-MOT the mechanic said one of the calipers was seized but I forgot to ask him which part. If it was the sliders, parking brake lever or piston. Is there any way to determine this. What would be the best way to fault find what the problem is? Any information would be great.
Regards
Allan Read more
Squibsquib, forgive me but this thing with your Primera brakes seems never ending, is there a proper mechanic anywhere in your area who could sort your brakes out safely and competently, without using a screwdriver as a chisel.
You've got me worrying when i see a Primera behind me now.
Hi All.
... Read more
Moved to Technical.
Hello All,
... Read more
Just a slight word of caution, if at a later stage one trys to get a corrosion warranty claim out of Audi, they will go over the vehicle with a fine toothed comb to look for overspray, or any other form of body repair to avoid the claim. I know I've been there!
Has anyone any experience of these?
because of an "incident" a few months back I am now considering installing one of these systems, does anyone know of an insurance backed one, or one that is acceptable, I have seen prices from £9.99 up to £300+ but would like to strike a fair balance in terms of use and cost. Read more
Not any more he isn't - link deleted. For good measure I've deleted the link which I must have thought OK in 2012.
I own a 2003 PT Cruiser and love the car, but I have one big problem. The car refuses to start again once the engine has warmed up. Thus, if after a long drive down the motorway you wish to stop for a quick break, the car refuses to start. By that I mean that all the lights on the dashboard come on as the car does its checks, but then when you try to start the engine - nothing. No coughing or spluttering or any sounds of life. It is not a flat battery as been there done that and at least the car tried to start. There is no signs of life at all from the car. Have had diagnostic check done by my garage, but this reveals nothing. I have even called out the AA when the car would not start, but by the time they arrive the engine was cold and it started first time. It can take at least 40mins for the engine to cool down. A short journey to the shops can result in me sitting in a car park waiting for ignition. Has anyone else had this problem and do you know what causes it. It really is making me fear driving the car anywhere, knowing I could be stranded.
We had this problem once, it was an intermittent fault sometimes the car would start fine, sometimes we had to keep turning the key on and off until it finally started. It turned out to be a faulty relay on ours, once changed we never had the problem again.
Where can I find a tow bar to fit my trusty Audi please? Read more
You also need one which is suitable for fitting to aluminium to prevent corrosion. Choose wisely.
Getting dark around 4pm
Schools going back... Read more
Bi xenons are very good this time of year. If someone sits with their foot on the break at junctions are at risk.... :-)
Hi folks, I am looking for a pair of Dunlop Sport 3000 tyres in 245 X 40 X R18 size with a Y rating. They have stopped making them and due to poor tracking which I had failed to notice the fronts are stuffed. The Audi book says that I need to have all four tyres the same make and tread, so I just need something to match the 2 rears, so part worn will do. I will then change all 5 at the next full tyre change which should be in 15-20K miles, having just got a new job after the thick end of 2 years doing short time contracts I cannot afford the thick of a grand to change all 4 yet.
Cheers... Read more
Hello everybody, I hope you can help me!
We recently had a blowing injector replaced (it blew on the motorway, puff of white smoke engine management light on, chuffing noise) Now we have a problem which I suspect is another injector, where from cold, the car runs on 3 cylinders until hitting (mostimes) 3 on the temperature bar. If I turn the engine off and restart, it runs on 4, the management light stays on but comes out of limp mode, eventually going off of it's own accord. The car will then run happily all day, no warning lights, goes up and down hills without loss of power and so on, until left for a few hours, then it starts again.... Read more
Try some Shell V-Power/ BP Ultimate -warm the car up and then an Italian tune-up
...
Browse
.jpg)
Phil - I've discovered that there should be another fuse (10A mini-blade) for the defog, in the fuse board right up under the dash on the right-hand side wall (it's mentioned in the owner's handbook). Fuse bay No. 20 if I remember correctly. Might be worth checking out. Good luck.