April 2011
Morning all,
I'm looking for a little bit of advice. We own a R56 Cooper S, the 1.6T one.... Read more
Hi
I own a Vauxhall Zafira with the 1.9 CDTI 150 engine. 2007 model, low 50k miles, FSH.... Read more
“ The engine in the Escort and Mondeo was the original Silvertop Zetec which had hydraulic tappets. The water pump in both was driven off the serpentine "alternator" belt in both“
Quick flick through old Mk I Mondeo Haynes manual I have backs up what you say completely, seems I’m plain wrong on the older Zetec. It’s the ancillary belt that drives the pump too. During the belt change it still makes sense to change it along with the ancillary belt while it’s stripped down but a pump failure shouldn’t strip the timing belt. ...
Lots of Audi / vw / Seat / Skoda drivers with 2.0 tdi engines are reporting piezo injector failures. These are happening due to a fault regardless of mileage or service history and appear to be more age related ( just outside warranty )
Many people are now reporting these instances to vosa. There is a safety issue as the cars cut out as soon as one injector fails.
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From someone on audi-sport.net that has reported the occurences to vosa ...............
Update from VOSA
They have had a meeting today with regards to this issue as it seems to be affecting anything with a 170 engine judging from the reports they have been getting. They want as many people as are affected to step forward and file a report to see how widespread the issue is and officially who's affected by this. They will be contacting VAG shortly and it will take up to 6 weeks to get an official response.
Let's see them make an excuse to VOSA about FASH now, (if FASH made any difference, we wouldn't have people asking like beggars for goodwill gestures, or getting the fault in the first place!)
Please please please get other people involved, on other forums or someone you know may have been affected. Even you guys that have had the injectors swapped, please file a report, it takes 2 minutes online and can help everyone.
I (we) are not after free injectors, I couldn't care less about them at this point. The fact Audi/VAG are STILL letting people drive around with a ticking timebomb IS EVERYONE'S PROBLEM. If they don't sort this problem out and get away with it, they'll be more inclined to sweep other "coincidences" under the rug too.
Please file, give VOSA the ammo they need, please re-post on other forums, anything with a 170 is affected:
VOSA LINK:
www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/onlineservices/vehicledefects....m Read more
Mine's doing it, 2 faulty injectors and it's a 140, stopped dead today on a junction with my 4 year old daughter in the car! it's been difficult to start recently but this cutting dead and not restarting is a new developement, second time it's done it, I had it read today, 1 dead injector and one ropey one, 91k miles. I'm waiting for audi to call me back it's a A4 2.0L Tdi 140 hp
Hi, I have a Peugeot 206 1.4 petrol, L/H drive, 2001 manufacture.
Recently it got to the point where the noise from a worn out clutch thrust got on my nerves, so it had to be changed. I had a local mechanic in Spain (where the car is kept) change the complete clutch assembly and cable. The cable was a genuine Peugeot part (or so I'm told) but the rest of the assembly was not.
My problems started when I went to collect the car, the noise had gone but I was left with a gearbox that crunched/crashed in and out of 3rd gear and I am totally unable to drop down into 2nd gear from 3rd unless going really slowly. Other gears feel notchy, feels a bit like the syncromesh has gone.
The mechanic thought it was caused by the new cable being defective and fitted another new one, but after the change still no improvement!
Now he is not interested any more, saying he did his job of changing the clutch and the gear selection is nothing to do with him!.... Even when I point out the car only went in with a noisy thrust and had a perfect gear change.
I thought it could be a problem with the new cables not adjusting correctly, and read through a workshop manual where it said the minimum movement of the clutch release arm at the gearbox should be a minimum of 24mm, my measurement of the arm movement is exactly 23mm with full pedal movement.
I am also being told that he could have damaged the selector rods from the box to the gear stick when removing the gearbox. I'm not sure how this could cause the problem but then people say 206's do have problems with these rods.
Also I'm told he could have put the clutch plate in the wrong way round, but again I'm not sure if this is possible, and if it is would it cause the gear selection and noise problems?
I have checked the fluid level and all seems ok although I can't say if it is the correct fluid, but I would have thought even if it was the wrong fluid the gearbox would have worked for a few miles after collection.
I'm now at a loss as what to do other than to take it to the local Spanish Peugeot Main Dealer and pay to have the job done again, at great cost!
Can anybody shed some light on what the problem might be as I can imagine the main dealer saying I need a new gearbox!
Many Thanks
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Hi, I would be interested if you ever made any progress on this. We have exactly the same problem on our 206 1.4L. The gearbox was working perfectly, went to have the clutch changed and now it is not. The garage that did it complained lots, told us they would change the clutch again (of course you never know if they did) it got a little better but they thought we should change the gearbox. Took it to a main Peugeot dealer who spent a while checking and decided that the gearbox needed changing as well, personally I am not so convinced. Unless the garage that changed the clutch dropped the gearbox while they were doing the job I dont really see a connection (in my day a clutch was on the end of the real gearbox and was pretty simple affair) between the cltuch and the problem with 3rd gear, it seems much more likely to me that is is a bent or damaged linkage (have you seen all those bits moving about the outside of the box when you change gear?). Anyway, if you make any progress it would be good to hear about it, and if I find anything I'll let you know.
Hello All,
I have a Golf 1.9 TDI DSG on an 05 plate, it';s done 95k and is serviced regularly.... Read more
new starter motor fitted, problem solved......£350 lighter.
My dad has a ford transit connect which after having had various oil leaks caused by a bad engine change (FWI national engines dont use new gaskets) fixed, i took the van on a 10 mile drive to make sure everything was ok which it was but after a few times it has trouble starting and will now only start on easy start. When started, it runs and drives fine but it just will not start on its own. Air and fuel filters have all been changed and oil and oil filter is all newish and i have also replaced the crank sensor but the problem is still there.
I have now run out of idea's so thought id post the question here. Read more
Thought it might. If a DI diesel loses compression it'll idle badly with one or more cylinders misfiring until it warms up. The problem almost certainly lies n the fuel pump (hopefully not the pump itself). It isn't building pressure sufficient pressure at cranking speed.
I recently purchased a VW Golf MK5 GT TDI 2.0 litre in a private sale.
My vehicle currently has 103k miles and has full VW service history.... Read more
Snap, myyr old 33 son had same fault last week - £1500 on an 06 Golf
Selling car and buying new one tomorrow - guess what? He's buying nother Golf..............will he never learn!
Just noticed that my brake light, fog light and tail light aren't working on the passenger side of my 57 plate Zafira 1.6 Life. However, the indictator and reversing light are fine.
I can't see how 3 bulbs have blown at once so suspect it may be a fuse. I have the Haynes manual for the car but it doesn't say which fuse covers the lights.... Read more
hello.
I also have this problem. passenger rear and brake light out but bulbs are working fine if i swap them with the reverse light. ...
I see in HJ's news that to replace the turbos on the disco the body has to be removed from the chassis. Nice to know some of the old engineers slipped through the net to give owners nightmares when a turbo fails, AND if the manufacturer, (bless them) decides it's not warranty due to some reason how many extra hours at Land Rovers extortionate main dealer hourly rates will that cost? Doooooohhhh.. Renind me not to buy one. I had thought of getting one for winter but back to the korean offers. Read more
re the need to remove the body to change turbos on the Disco 4 - our local garage LA Cars in Chelmsford has a way of doing it w/o removing the body - takes a wee bit longer, but costs a lot less that a Landy dealer.
Hoping to get a second opinion.
As per title:... Read more
Just in case this happens to anyone else - I was looking for the answer but this isn't a particularly common/known fault with this model as far as I know:
The garage started with the plugs - perhaps also to get a feel for whether it was rich or weak running and then methodically went about ruling things out....
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