April 2011
I have been pondering over which 4X4 to buy with the top 3 picks being Nissan X Trail Tekna, Honda CRV ES and Volvo XC90 SE
Till date Nissan and Honda have been leading the race as I wanted the price to be under 30K, though wife has been pushing hard to pick a 7 seater which takes Nissan and Honda out of the race... Read more
OK so its come to this, the Summons arrived today with apparently just the one offence.
Driving a vehicle "....otherwise than in accordance with a licence authorising you to drive a motor vehicle of that class. Contrary to section 87(1) of the Road Traffic Act 1988 and Schedule 2 to the Road Traffic Offenders Act 1988....This offence carries penalty points....endorsable offence.
It goes on to give a Statement of Facts..."the defendant drove.....otherwise than in accordance with a licence for that class of motor vehicle in that the driver was not the holder of a driving licence"
So there doesn't seem to be any indication that I will be prosecuted for an offence of driving without insurance unless for some reason that is bundled in and incorporated with the above offence?
One of the officers does tick a box stating "There was not in force in relation to their use a current and valid Policy of Insurance for the above vehicle." (Though of course I had a fully comp policy)
and another stating "There was not in force in relation to their use a current and valid Driving Licence for the category of vehicle.
Now I am aware of this... "Driving otherwise than in accordance with a licence carries a mandatory endorsement unless you were entitled to hold an appropriate licence - in which case there are no points, only a fine."
My main motivation here is to avoid the IN10 (driving without insurance) which initially at least it doesn't seem I am being prosecuted for and secondly keeping my licence points free! the fine I don't mind.
So $64,000 question....do I simply plead Not Guilty and explain that DVLA quickly reissued my licence full and clean?....or am I going to have to try and dig into events as to why 13 years ago my licence was revoked in the first place?....the licence was re-issued without any fees payable.
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The crux of this is that at the time and date stopped your did not have a Licence to drive the vehicle involved according to DVLA records. You will have to show otherwise to the Court to achieve a Not Guilty verdict. Can you do so?. If not, many would advise a Guilty plea with all the mitigation you can summons as to why no Licence.
Normally a person with no Licence invalidates Insurance. In your case it appears that at one stage you held a Licence so you comply with the requirement of the Insurance Policy in covering a person who holds OR has held a Licence to drive and is not disqualified by Court Order or age.....
The light comes back on after one minute from start-up & goes out after about 5mins if on the throttle but then comes back on overrun & tick over [ throttle closed ].The problem happens all the time now. Any advice would be appreciated or good tech 2 supplier that works with my laptop for my 2.2dti as the one I purchased does not work & goes blank when I select 2.2dti Thanks & regards Colin Allen Read more
Well done to you !
Its great fixing these faults yourself.Not always difficult if you spend the time,and a huge saving to be made....
I am having problems starting my Ford Galaxy. It starts great first time with jump cables and runs ok. As soon as you turn the engine off and try and restart it turns over a little bit but doesn't restart. There is no battery light lit so it appears the alternator is ok and I have cleaned all the battery contacts and the earth and it is still the same, When started the car was run for 20 or so miles yet it wouldn't restart when the ignition was turned off. Any ideas?
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Had the same problem on our 07 plate 2.0tdci. Had battery changed by AA but still struggled to start and got worse. (Tended to really struggle on short trips) Went to Ford who diagnosed the started motor was drawing too much current so needed replacing. (£300!!) Was not convinced as I would expect a starter drawing too much current was doing too much work, so I let them do it thinking I would have comeback if fault still apparent. Anyway, appears they were right, now all ok again. They did say it is a common fault on transits. Hope the info helps.
Hubby's Combo has been making a whining/whistling noise on and off for a few weeks. Not immediately evident when cold, tends to appear after 10-15 minute journey. We couldn't see anything obviously, so took along to local garage last week, they had a listen and test drove, and said possibly turbo related - pipe/seal sucking in air. Van is booked in tomorrow for a better look and any work to be done.
Not used van since last Thursday (hols), but needed to do a short trip this morning. Started up and there was a clattering (metallic - bearing?) type noise at idle, which continued when driven and seemed to increase/decrease with speed/revs. On return, noticed wet patch under the van, and found a lot of water sprayed around engine bay. Cannot see where its coming from - seems like a fine mist and spraying from the aux belt area. Also a lot of water evident, but not much drop in level from the exp tank, and running temp is normal, so assume its a pressurised leak making it look like more.... Read more
Thanks for replies.
Heard from garage earlier and it is water pump, plus tensioner from aux belt is on the way out too (rattling/bearing noise), so going to replace both. They cannot find anything wrong with the turbo (thankfully) so hope this solves the noise problem aswell....
On acceleration between 1600 - 2100 rpm she hiccups/hesitates. I've been told that is just when the egr valve is switching to all clean air but bot doing it sucessfully.
Where is this little blighter and how best to clean it ? . A replacement for this model is £170- ish but i'd rather give it a wipe of meths ! 150,000 mile so it's done quite well. I'm pretty handy on older cars with a haynes manual and gaffer tape, but no manuals it seems for these new complicated cars. Any help would be really usefull, thanks.... Read more
I'll give that a try thankyou.I looked up the manual , i just didn't think of checking that the Passat manual would cover my engine !.
I'll be back
I've had my corsa easytronic for 2 years with no problems but then all of a sudden it wouldn't start and F flashed on the dashboard. By looking at this forum it seemed to be an ECU problem, and the code was P1607 so we sent it off for ECU repair. It went to the netherlands and took two weeks and after putting it back on the car it still wouldnt start. The code is now P1730 clutch actuator.
What do I do? Read more
There is a company called "ECU.com" in nottinghamshire that knows all,about these and can flash information across from other units if not repairable.
Clutches cause 60% of the problems and 40% are caused by the ECU. i suggest a 2nd test by the mentioned company may help....
Hi all
I'm getting a horrible screeching sound when doing low speed turns for parking etc, and it just got worse when the power steering seemed to fail at these low speeds, resulting in me heaving and wrestling the wheel just to get the car out of the car park.... Read more
right on the 206 1.4 yes the resevoir is on top of the pump with the pulley to the left
I'm positive its the same on the 306 1.4 as the engines are identical ...
Have had this car for a little while now and have an ongoing problem with lumpy idle and the long term fuel trim showing very rich. Car has done just shy of 51000 miles. It had a fault code of P0171 for a while and the front oxygen sensor was changed by a garage. After the fault came back, they decided it was the MAF in the Bosch throttle body and they replaced this. The fault kept recurring and they changed the MAF a further two times (one of them had a faulty air temperature sensor on the side). After the problem did not improve, I had another garage take a look at the car and it was discovered that the previous garage had fitted a universal 4-wire back oxygen sensor to the front! The fuel trim at this point was hanging between +20-23%.
Having had the front changed for a legitmate Bosch sensor (part number: 0258005263) and the wiring harness reconnected where it had been cut by the last garage the car seemed to be running a lot better and the fuel trim started reducing (they said it should freefall after a few hundred miles back down towards 0%) and wouldn't need anything else doing to it. It got down to 9% last week when I last checked so I thought it was indeed nearly fixed. However, tonight I noticed the idle was very rough when I pulled up after a 25 mile journey so I plugged in the ELM327 tool I'd been using to monitor the trims and it has gone back up to +17%!... Read more
Quiet exhaust, black plugs, good throttle response-sounds like you're well on the rich side! If it is rich, I don't understand why the ECU is adding more fuel...
It's worthwhile noting, that the ECU doesn't 'know' what each cylinder is doing-the ECU assumes that each injector will flow fuel at the same rate and will set tyhe same pulse width for every cylinder. Due to manufacturing tolerences this is not exactly true, and the ECU will use the lambda sensor to fine tune the fuelling....
I've just got one of the old knackered bushes out of the housing and before I put the new one in, can someone confirm which way up the bushes go in? ie on the bush theres a rubber tab that according to the manual and bush manufacturer looks as if it lines up to the base of the swinging arm joint but I need to know 100%. ie does the bush go in with rubber tab to the bottom of the bush????
Was quite dreading this job as had read alot about struggling with it so to help others heres what I did and I am a diy mechanic nothing more lol... Read more
I have the workshop manual and it shows the new bush with a dimple on the part the bolt goes through. This dimple should line up with the weld on the joint on the bottom where the swing arm joins with the bush housing. If you can go into your library tomorrow, maybe they will have a haynes manual on he shelf or maybe just google it. The manual suggests you use a long bolt and suitable washers and sleeves to pull the bush through. It also says the bush must be correctly fitted as you know. What were the symptoms which made you need to the replace the bushes?
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Where I live (with no motorway within 50 miles) manuals rule the roost and you don't know what we bought it for ....