April 2011
I've had my corsa easytronic for 2 years with no problems but then all of a sudden it wouldn't start and F flashed on the dashboard. By looking at this forum it seemed to be an ECU problem, and the code was P1607 so we sent it off for ECU repair. It went to the netherlands and took two weeks and after putting it back on the car it still wouldnt start. The code is now P1730 clutch actuator.
What do I do? Read more
Hi all
I'm getting a horrible screeching sound when doing low speed turns for parking etc, and it just got worse when the power steering seemed to fail at these low speeds, resulting in me heaving and wrestling the wheel just to get the car out of the car park.... Read more
right on the 206 1.4 yes the resevoir is on top of the pump with the pulley to the left
I'm positive its the same on the 306 1.4 as the engines are identical ...
Have had this car for a little while now and have an ongoing problem with lumpy idle and the long term fuel trim showing very rich. Car has done just shy of 51000 miles. It had a fault code of P0171 for a while and the front oxygen sensor was changed by a garage. After the fault came back, they decided it was the MAF in the Bosch throttle body and they replaced this. The fault kept recurring and they changed the MAF a further two times (one of them had a faulty air temperature sensor on the side). After the problem did not improve, I had another garage take a look at the car and it was discovered that the previous garage had fitted a universal 4-wire back oxygen sensor to the front! The fuel trim at this point was hanging between +20-23%.
Having had the front changed for a legitmate Bosch sensor (part number: 0258005263) and the wiring harness reconnected where it had been cut by the last garage the car seemed to be running a lot better and the fuel trim started reducing (they said it should freefall after a few hundred miles back down towards 0%) and wouldn't need anything else doing to it. It got down to 9% last week when I last checked so I thought it was indeed nearly fixed. However, tonight I noticed the idle was very rough when I pulled up after a 25 mile journey so I plugged in the ELM327 tool I'd been using to monitor the trims and it has gone back up to +17%!... Read more
Quiet exhaust, black plugs, good throttle response-sounds like you're well on the rich side! If it is rich, I don't understand why the ECU is adding more fuel...
It's worthwhile noting, that the ECU doesn't 'know' what each cylinder is doing-the ECU assumes that each injector will flow fuel at the same rate and will set tyhe same pulse width for every cylinder. Due to manufacturing tolerences this is not exactly true, and the ECU will use the lambda sensor to fine tune the fuelling....
I've just got one of the old knackered bushes out of the housing and before I put the new one in, can someone confirm which way up the bushes go in? ie on the bush theres a rubber tab that according to the manual and bush manufacturer looks as if it lines up to the base of the swinging arm joint but I need to know 100%. ie does the bush go in with rubber tab to the bottom of the bush????
Was quite dreading this job as had read alot about struggling with it so to help others heres what I did and I am a diy mechanic nothing more lol... Read more
I have the workshop manual and it shows the new bush with a dimple on the part the bolt goes through. This dimple should line up with the weld on the joint on the bottom where the swing arm joins with the bush housing. If you can go into your library tomorrow, maybe they will have a haynes manual on he shelf or maybe just google it. The manual suggests you use a long bolt and suitable washers and sleeves to pull the bush through. It also says the bush must be correctly fitted as you know. What were the symptoms which made you need to the replace the bushes?
Can someone advise me on this please? My car which is a 2003 1.9tdi Passat manual 5 speed. Was hit on the passenger front wheel and wing. My car was stationary at the time(parked) waiting for the wife. My car was pushed again'st the kerb and subsequently up it. The car suffered a damaged wing/bumber and the steering is way out. Apart from this the car sounds and drives fine apart from pulling to the right. My insurance has authorised a garage to take the car for estimates. I drove my car after the accident for 5 miles to my home and it drove without any noise. the garage sent a driver to collect the car. He made a list of the damage and gave me a copy. Then he drove it away, with no problems or noise. The garage has been authorised to carry out the repairs, "great i thought, until I phoned the garage to get an approx time of completion" they said to me "is that the car with the flywheel gone" I said that I know nothing about a flywheel problem. Not waisting any time, I went to the garage to see what they were on about. When they started it up it sounded like a box of bolts clanking around loudly. they said it just popped when they were moving it from one part of the car park to another. I said that there was no sign of any noise before it came into their garage. But they said it's common and they can suddenly just go like that. Is this true? my insurance company is going to instruct them to get images of the flywheel, which will mean taking the gearbox off. Then they will get back to me. Regards Pete Read more
No the driver never reported it. And he gave me a slip/receipt and that says nothing about it. They did not even call me about it. I called them to get an approximate time for the repairs. That's when they told me the news. They reckon it just popped when they were moving it in their car park.
i have a peugeot 406 hdi 110 estate , recentley it developed an intermitant fault on the abs , the abs warning light would come on when it felt like it , some times the abs could be opperated when stopping in dry warm conditions , after much searching i found the near side abs sensor ring was lose and cracked , this is on the cv joint , i did not want to replace the joint or the drive shaft as nothing else wrong with it and all the time and trouble to do the job plus the pound notes , the solution is simple , yes you have uesed it glue it back on , but what to use ? not much bonds to metal very well nut there is one compound that is designed to bond to metal , its a bouning agent made by LOCKTIGHT , its LOCKTIGHT 603 , this superceds LOCKTIGHT 601 its green runny when it comes out of the tube , pull the abs ring away from the cv joint , do not clean the rust off as this will aid as a key for it to bond too , coat the cv joint surfaceall around including the bevel part that it butts up on , slide the ring back on and push it up so it rests against the bevel , ( do not clamp the ring up in any way ) now drible the LOCKTIGHT all around the edges of the ring rotating the drive shaft as you do so , capilary actin will draw it under the ring tthus filling the small gap caused by the split in the ring and it expanding ,,leave it over night , do not move the car at all , the LOCKTIGHT will cure over night and set , when it has set you will not be able to move the ring at all , it sets like concreat , to soften it ( should you feel the need ) you will need a blow lamp to get it to unbond , and hey presto job done abs all ok and all for a little over £7.00 and done without removeing anything except the road wheel to gain decent access Read more
yes its holding and no further problems , abs ok , normal breaking ok , all sorted
i have recently had a new alternator and battery fitted and since then my built in sat nav will no longer work .Says (initialising) but gets no further .Any ideas ?Have also tried ejecting disc but will not eject ! Read more
hello again !
Have checked and is 4canbus. Would have taken it back to garage but had a disagreement over work done and price .Would never go there again wish had taken it to vauxhall !!!! Am just off to Halfords for temporary sat nav till hopefully mine gets fixed.Will await your reply...
Hello,
Could I ask for some opinion about my three fault codes? I took my 2005 206 1.4 HDI to the garage yesteday as the engine fault light had come on and we were in limp home mode (although limiting a diesel to 3000r.p.m is hardly limping.....)
The garage brought up the fault codes as follows:
P0087 - fuel rail/system pressure too low
P0480 - Cooling fan 1 control circuit malfunction
P0692 - Unknown fault code.
So, obviously I'd like to know what that last fault code refers to. I'd also like to know which of these faults triggered the engine fault light? Could the car have been running quite happily for some time with one of these faults? I had not noticed anything unusual in the cars behaviour prior to the light coming on.
thanks for your help
Ben Read more
If you google it,it comes up as another cooling fan fault.
Never did get around to saying thank-you. So thanks. Fan control electrics had suffered water ingress and had fallen to pieces. Motor was virtually seized too....
hi my vectra c on 53 plate diesel 2.0 has the spanner light on when you start up and goes out after a few seconds , i put my autel diagnostic machine on it and comes up with code p 1483 , refer to owners service manual , i hope some one can help me thanks Read more
It may be on the rad cowling?
Hi Guys
... Read more
Maybe that's why it was put into auction in the first place? The CEL puts the fear of God into people-when often the problem is minor and easy to fix. Just glad I don't have one! I decide when the car's sick, not a computer.
Browse
There is a company called "ECU.com" in nottinghamshire that knows all,about these and can flash information across from other units if not repairable.
Clutches cause 60% of the problems and 40% are caused by the ECU. i suggest a 2nd test by the mentioned company may help....