September 2011

alka

Recently - shortly after having the alternator replaced (Genuine Ford part, diagnosed and fitted by Ford dealer) the glowplug light started flashing, and once started it continues until the engine has been switched off and restarted. When it happens there is a loss of power.

I have looked at various forums on line, and while it seems like a common problem, there doesn't seem to be any consensus on the most likely cause. I get the impression that I would spend £60 or so on diagnostic tests that will not get to the root cause.... Read more

howy868

My 56 plate ST TDCi has just started to flash the glowplug light and go into limp, usually shortly after a cold morning start. But in my case it continues to run very well even in limp mode and never cuts out or falters. Also, I'm sure it's not my imagination, but after resstarting to clear, it definitely run better and smoother than it ever did before! Fuel economy has also improved considerably recently - Does this give any clearer clues to the fault - particularly can an engine actually run better with a jammed EGR? Any guidance welcome....

heftyporker

Hi Everyone

I am in need of a new car and have found an 07 Volvo V50 S Diesel, with 36000 miles on the clock for just over £8000. It seems like good value but I want your opinion. Someone recently said that some Volvos are not as reliable (something to do with a ford engine or something? - I forget!) I'm getting it for reliability and good miles per gallon (on a motorway). Any advice would be much appreciated!... Read more

Nuruz

Yes I agree with you, a lesson learnt, research before hand, as they say let the buyer beware.

bverduijn

Hello there

I have a 2006 T5 2.5l TDi 130bhp (145k miles). The engine ceased a few
months ago, shortly after putting petrol in instead of diesel (duh). I ended up having the engine completely remanufactured for the princely sum of £3,700 (they also replaced the flywheel and clutch kit). When I got the van back it started to shudder very badly - usually around 1600-2000 rpm. Took it back and was told the air mass meter had failed, so I replaced that. Shudder continued. Took it back, they replaced all the engine mounts and fitted another new flywheel and clutch to be safe.

The shudder didn't go away. They did notice a little bit of excess play in the drive shaft (a few mm), but basically the mechanics are at a complete loss as to what is causing the shudder. Their current theory is that it is likely to be the gearbox. What they think might have happened is as follows. They reckon that when the engine ceased, the forces involved might have had a major impact on the drive shaft (hence the excess play) and subsequently b*****ed up the internals of the gearbox to some degree.

The shudder appears to kick in in all gears, but is very noticeable around 1500-2000 RPM in 3rd gear and up. Particularly when going up hill or when putting my foot down for quick acceleration. The mechanics have basically suggested to monitor it for a while to see if it gets worse, as that might help pinpoint the exact cause of the problem. Whilst this makes some sense, I am very worried everytime I accelerate the van. The van should have heaps of power but because of the shudder it performs sub-optimally.

In addition, the van has been starting very badly and failed to start completely today - however, this is probably to do with the starter motor, so hopefully that's a relatively quick fix and probably unrelated to the shuddering?


Could anyone shed some light on what might be wrong and what to do next? Also, if it is the gearbox - what sort of cost am I looking at and should I replace it asap or wait for matters to deteriorate?

Any views and advice much appreciated! This episode has already cost more than £4k and still isn't right - am I very worried...

Bjorn Read more

Big John

Is my memory correct in that the T5 2.5tdi has a mechanical distributor fuel pump? These can start to fail fail (especially after mis-fuelling) and some symptoms can be poor starting and shuddering.

Rich99

Hi, I have a ford S-Max that doesn't come with a spare tyre, just a Continental ContiMobility Kit - a compressor & bottle of sealant. I had a puncture & the kit worked fine to get me going again. However what bits do I need to replace? Obviously I'd need to buy more sealant, but is the inside of the compressor all coated with liquid rubber now? I read in another thread on this forum that it costs >£60 to replace, however halfords sell 'tyre weld' which seems to be essentially the same thing for £12.

What should I buy? Is there any reason not to go for the £12 halfords option?... Read more

likerocks

2 blown out tyres this year on his one year old Renault Megane

blow outs DO NOT just happen - there is something else going on in this story I'm sure!

Woody37

I stopped at my papershop yesterday lunchtime, after a two mile drive, got back in the car, pulled out onto a main road, put my foot down and - nothing much, just a siren like noise and minimal forward movement.

I limped it back home carefully, any push of the accelerator met with this loud whining noise.... Read more

Collos25

No problems with swirl flaps on a 2007 but the price of the turbo fitting is extortionate BMW do not make turbos Either have yours reconditoined or get an exchange unit from the numerous suppliers they are a doddle to fit altogether should cost no more than £700 with all seals and gasgets.

PeteSmith

Hi all.... Read more

PeteSmith

Hi.

Just got the car back from Camco in Warrington....

agmaster

i think i have bought the worse 7 speed dsg gearbox ever made, my vw caddy van was new in june 2011 and as soon as i got in it i found that this was not brilliant made better. if i put the van in drive on a hill from a stop the van will get upto 4700 rpm before it will change, if i dont give it the beans it will not change, the only way is to do it in manual, also if on a hill if i am creeping forward in slow moving traffic upto 5mph the gearbox will disengage and roll back after about 3 seconds, and there is a horrible delay from hitting the throtle to engine responce, vw say this is a charectaristic of the gear box, i said i will see them in court.......has anybody has similar faults with there 7 speed dsg. Read more

dieseldogg

Any update on 7 speed DSG issues.

I am about to go down the legal action route (again)...

Alan

I shall soon be looking at auction for a replacement car of about three years old. I don't specifically want to buy a diesel but most of the ex fleet cars at auction are diesels so I limit my choice if I avoid them. If I buy a deisel I wish to aviod the hassel of a dpf. I shall be looking for a focus or astra size car. I am told that the 110bhp focus has a dpf but not the 90bhp but I don't know up to what date that changed. Can anyone tell me of any other diesel of around that age and size which does not have a dpf or one where if you have problems with it you can comfortably throw the dpf away and still pass an MOT. Read more

focussed

Brum is absolutely spot-on with his comments about the nasty little 1.3 Vauxhall diesel which is actually designed by Fiat (Fix It Again Trevor). I had one in a Corsa and the description of the stall if the revs get too low and the ECU just switches the engine off is that it sounds like the world's strongest man has hit the bottom of the car with a sledge hammer. Pedestrians stop in their tracks and turn around and laugh, dogs start barking and old ladies drop their shopping.

Avoid.

Fantasy Green Machine

Hi I have just passed my driving test so my husband bought me a lovely little Fabia. The car got through its Mot without any issues and we collected it only recently. When we were looking under the bonnet it appears to have a cam belt situated to the left of the engine block. Looking through the full service history it does not appear to have ever been changed (it has now done approx 74k) I called the previous owner to ask her if she ever had it replaced and she advised that it did not have a cam belt and that isone of the reasons why she bought it. Can any one one of you much more experienced Skoda owners confirm this please. If it does have a cam belt, will it be easy to diy? would anyone also be able to recommend a service manual worth buying for this car as it did not come with one. Many thanks. Read more

Big John

In 2001 the Skoda Fabia 1.4 8v engine was a version of the original engine to earlier Skodas (pre VW) attached to VW running gear. It is a pushrod engine (cam in engine) with a short cam chain.

The 2001 1.4 16v was very different. It has a cambelt and plastic rollers that need changing every 4 years or 40k. Fairly obvious if you have this engine. Plugs and leads recessed in the top centre of cylinder head with a plastic cover with "16V" on it....

chisholm

Hi,

I've got a four year old Jazz.Recently the radio sound stopped but the CD works fine.... Read more

drumw

Had the same problem. Stripped out the radio and took it to Car Hi-Fi Services near denny Scotland. Turned out it was a fault in the voltage regulator (radio works at 8 volts evidently) which took under an hour to fix at a cost of less than £100. Place was most helpful as it turned out they needed the whole radio section including facia panel (removal is made easier if heating cables are disconected behind the glove compartment.