March 2011

brother776

hi all , i no i have done wrong now when i received a letter from my insurance company. it stated they i did not disclose a conviction IN10 , i was quite supprised to see this as i thought it was over 5 years ago so i thought i didn't need to admit it. now the letter i received stated i should send a letter back exsplaining the reason why i didn't disclose this , i sent one back and then today (2/03/2011) i received an email from my insurer stating my insurance is now voided and showed the date when my IN10 that is still on my name , now i rang the dvla and they have no record of this on my licence. so i have afew questions.....

... Read more

brother776

i have managed too contact the FOS and i going to go through the complaints process with my insurer. I understand i did a silly mistake and hopefully in this out come i can get the VOID lifted and they allow me to cancel the insurance with a refund and leave with my tail inbetween my legs. As i don't want too admit a VOID for the rest my driving life due to a mistake i made getting the dates mixed up. i would like them to allow me to leave wth a refund. and a very large sorry on it. but i can only hope i guess i will keep this updated as and when i get info

Royce

I recently bought this car and, from the off, I've been getting a series of error messages randomly. Everything from tyre(s) punctured - they're not, to 'Anti-Pollution Fault' and 'Deisel Additive Low" - stopping the car and restarting has got rid of the messages briefly.

Two days ago, the STOP warning came on along with the 'Tyre(s) punctured' message and, when I got the the roundabout and tried to pull away, there was hardly any power. No matter how hard I push the accelerator, I pull away very slowly indeed. I can get a top speed of 50mph and lose power dramatically on any slight climb.... Read more

nellyjak

Given this thread is 9 years old I wouldn't hold your breath for a response from the OP

mastiles

Just got the car back from its service and the 'door open' warning light was on the dashboard despite all doors and boot being securely shut. I decided to drive home and treble check things there but, on getting home, the central locking wouldn't operate either - so it is sat there now open (I could manually lock all doors but that is a faff).

I have no idea what the garage could have done to trigger this, other than the grease used to lubricate the locks has perhaps got into the circuitry (the car appears to have the 'closed doors' sensors on the actual locking mechanism rather than the usual pin switches.... Read more

mastiles

Well had the car back n again and it turns out to be a faulty connection somewhere in the fusebox - it was disturbed when they fitted the pollen filter.

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sagechris

I have an 18 month old Zetec TDCi with 11,700 miles on the clock. When I accelerate heavily, particularly up an incline, at around 2,500 rpm, the engine speeds up by a few hundred rpm and then reverts to a speed comensurate with vehicle speed. There is no evidence of clutch slip when pulling away, even on a hill start.

Also, in cruise control, when RES is used to return to the selected speed after braking, the engine begins to accelerate and then the the cruise control cuts out back into standby mode, as if the clutch had been depressed. As I have a driving style that is light on the clutch and never in 40 years have I had a clutch problem I am surprised and perturbed. Would like advice before main dealer charges me a shed load for a 'non warranty' repair. Read more

ddr

It seems to me: we ahve found a faulty component end of story. No one seems to want to use there brains and think more deeply. A caravan outing will give a real test shortly.

Sad but true. However not entirely surprising given that few people would be prepared to pay for the time of a proper engineer to fix their car, and 'proper engineers' these days probably prefer jobs where they don't have to deal with customers and get dirty....

burge

Hi, My son has the 1.4 privilege model and recently the headlining above the sunvisors became wet. have checked out the drains for the sunroof but they are clear and any water put in comes out in by the rear of front wheels, so does anyone have any experience of this and is there a cure.

Burge Read more

Andrew-T

" Appalling customer service from www.sunroofrepairs.co.uk. ; Been trying for 5 weeks to arrange for them to come and fix my leaking sunroof. Been constantly fobbed off with promises and excuses. No one ever returns phone calls. Tried to talk to someone on the online webchat today, was very polite with my comments but received a message saying "You are Banned" with no further explanation. Wouldn't touch them with a barge-pole. "

So you didn't recognise a bit of scammy self-advertising. A genuinely good provider would not usually resort to doing this.

ellieonda

Hi, I wonder if anyone can help me with this problem. I own a 1999 Honda CRV and have had it from new and love it very much. It only has 41k miles on it but is sadly just beginning to show its age. Recently serviced at my local Honda garage (who I deserted in favour of a local garage due to high costs in the past) and told them about the strange grinding noise I could hear when turning on full lock. They said they would change the diff oil and added £60 to the service charge. Two days later and the noise is still there but not so noticeable. I have to go back to the garage as they tell me the centre exhaust is blowing and should be replaced soon (£145) so I have told them the steering noise is still there and they say they will look at it again for me.

I have been reading up on here and other sites and can see that this subject has been discussed a lot - however my car does not judder or shake it just made this very loud noise - which as I said seems quieter now. Is my problem the 'known problem' that I frequently see discussed do you think and also what questions should I ask of the garage about it. My husband has just purchased a 2007 CRV from this garage and now I am concerned his car may also develop the problem. My car was purchased from this Honda garage as well in 1999. Thanks for any help or advice you can give. Read more

Lygonos

The usual cause is degraded fluid in the rear differential.

The noise has improved so this supports the cause....

pippi

HELP!! sorry just at my wit's end here. I've got a 2001 Renault Megane auto with 60k on the clock. Its actually a very good car, clean engine, runs really well, etc, etc. BUT and its a big but. Since I got it a year ago I've had intermittent starting problems with it. Last winter and this winter.

Dashboard lights up as you turn the ignition, then when you try to start it nothing. No click, engine doesn't turn over, lights go out but as soon as you release the key they go back on again.... Read more

pippi

Well, it needs a new starter motor. Turns out they'd tested the inhibitor switch and that had been faulty too. but tuns out its as simple as a new starter motor. Joy...

thanks everyone for your help

Norrie.com

It appears that the problem with the dipstick bottom end measuring section snapping off isn't uncommon. It happened to me the other day. The mistake I made was slightly turning the dipstick inside the tube. The bottom end of the tube inside the sump has two bends in it like a slightly flattend out 'S'. Unusually compared with other engines, this tube is longer than the dipstick and the part that broke off was stuck inside the bottom end of the dipstick tube in the last bend. This meant it couldn't get into the engine (not a chance I would take even now knowing this) but also I couldn't check the oil level. Another unusual fact was that the big ends and crankshaft are set quiet well up into the block and so couldn't actually reach the broken part of the dipstaick even if it had protruded out the end of the tube. All this was only found out by removing the sump. this is pretty easy, the hardest part being breaking the seal between the sump and the block. A scraper or putty knife used carefully with patience will evetually break the seal. Make sure the oil is drained first (!) and that you have a supply of gasket sealent (Usually the blue variety) as a traditional cork gasket isn't used here.

Ordered a new dipstick from Ford (line of thought being that one out of a scrap yard might already be weakened and break again) but it is supplied with the external part of the dipstick tube even though I didn't think I needed it. Cost around £24. Read more

galileo

It appears that the problem with the dipstick bottom end measuring section snapping off isn't uncommon. It happened to me the other day.

Ordered a new dipstick from Ford (line of thought being that one out of a scrap yard might already be weakened and break again) but it is supplied with the external part of the dipstick tube even though I didn't think I needed it. Cost around £24....

tcb180

I have just bought a Nissan Note 1.5 dci with a mere 27k on the clock on a 56 plate. The gears are hard to engage from cold particularly in cold weather. I saw H.J. suggest changing the gear oil to one motorist recently who had a different car but the same problem. Was wondering what oil should I change to? I think a synthetic oil was recommended? Read more

Simoncelli58

These are simular to Micra's.

The gear linkage,which has nylon bushes are prone to wear very early....

primeradriver

After the winter we've had, and the difficulty I experienced getting anywhere, I am seriously looking into finding four steel wheels for my Mk2 Focus, and getting winter tyres on them so I can move them over come October time so I am not caught out again.

Normally the tyres are pretty expensive, but I did find these:

tinyurl.com/6352crt

Which are £39 each delivered, and there is a local place that will happily put tyres on for a fiver a wheel. So not a massive amount of outlay.

I'm not happy with the idea of using part-worns -- I know some people advocate them but I don't like the idea of driving on something that hasn't been thoroughly tested before sale as many of them haven't -- but by the same token I'm not overly impressed with the idea of spending £400 on a second set of tyres.

Do you think these would be OK? I have noted that the reviews for these tyres ("Winter Tact" of Germany) seem fairly positive, but that word "remould" still carries a stigma so I am not sure.

Any views appreciated. Read more

MrEckerslikefromRamsbottom

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When I was a young lad---- That was a long time ago and the only 'snow' tyres I could get for my Mini Clubman Estate (I got through three of those as each one rusted away) were the tyres used in Mini Grasstrack racing - Uniband Rally Remoulds! They were, however, brilliant in snow and after a back-end slide on ice in a Fiesta with Summer tyres a few Winters ago, I'm decided to always use the correct tyres in Winter. My experience of today's Winter tyres is - - Vredestein Snowtrack - Brilliant on snow and ice; Vredestein Quatrac 3 - Very good in snow, good on ice, but not brilliant. Quatracs really are a good choice for all-year-round use but may let you down on an icy hill. My local tyre-fitter is enthusiastic about Kleber Quadraxers, which he says are brilliant in snow.

My Mk6 Fiesta came fitted with 15" wheels and 50-profile tyres, whereas the pre-2006 model was fitted with 14" wheels and 65-profile tyres. A couple of the latest Mk7 Fiesta models are fitted with the 14" wheels so as to use less fuel. Fitting 14" wheels and 175/65 R14 snow tyres gives me a much more comfortable ride, the car 'drives' better with lower fuel consumption and I'm loathe to go back to the harder ride of 195/50 R15 tyres! Finding 14" Fiesta wheels in scrap yards was hard work and I got sold some very rusty wheels, which were then stolen by the metal thieves whilst I was wire-brushing them at the back of the house! But this Winter, I've found a couple of alloy-wheel suppliers who are offering to supply a full set of steel wheels ready fitted with Winter tyres to fit most cars. The wheels are made in Germany by KFZ (there's a YouTube video of the factory) and you get a choice of tyres. Here's two that I've found---...