March 2011
With the first version on the dpf on the 2.0 tdci engine does it suffer from the same problems as these new dpf, i mean the short drive and regeneration issue?
The version i have on my car needs the fluid topup every 37k Read more
I have noticed a weird burning smell over the last few days from the engine bay and thought the car was labouring when driving, (i.e no pick up in higher gears on the flat). Last night it was worse than ever and when I hit about 50 mph the steering wheel was vibrating quite noticeably and all in all made for a distressing 45 minutes of motoring. When I eventually arrived back home I felt a brief wave of heat as I opened the door and quickly located the source....that being the front offside wheel. It was seriously hot to the point of not being able to touch it.
I had all brakes replaced last year about 4 or 5k ago and other than being a bit squeeky, have given me no problems. My other thought was a wheel bearing seized, but I have had no evidence to believe it was 'on its way out', by way of a noise etc.... Read more
NEEDS A NEW CALIPER AND A BRAKE FLUID CHANGE, PISTON RUSTS INSIDE DUE TO THE FLUID BEING HYDROSCOPIC( MEANING IT ABSORBS WATER) THEN CANT RETURN IN TO THE CALIPER PASSED THE SEAL NEW CALIPER WILL FIX THIS PROBLEM, ABOUT £60 FROM LOCAL AUTOFACTORS.
Well 1200 miles ito a new B7 VW Passat 2.0Tdi SE I am astounded to find that I am acheiving an actual 61.4 mpg (based on fill up). For a fairly fast and quiet family car I am truly astounded. My old Volvo V50 2.0D with 42,000 miles struggled to reach 44 mpg with the same driving style. Just hope it lasts the pace. Read more
Thanks for this advice re the oil level. Driving was on a mix of motorway and light unobstructed country roads keeping within speed limits. I am conviced the stop start has a significant contribution to city driving too.
I'm having some trouble removing the fanbelt on my combo van. The chap in the garage said I just need to loosen the nut on the tensioner and it will come off. It sounded easy, but now i've got it home I loosen the nut and it does nothing! In-fact I can take it out completely and still the belt remains too tight to remove...What am I doing wrong?
PS Im not just loosening the wrong nut. Its definitely the tensioner as it moves when i pull the belt tight. Read more
put the bolt back in, do it up then try doing it up even more, this will swing the whole tensioner arm away from the belt it is called a self tensioner or automatic tensioner.
I know there are some knowledgable people out there on the subject of VW diesels, so some advice would be welcome. My Superb has covered over 120K miles in the last 5 years, virtually trouble free. It will soon be due a second cam belt change. I do not know what Skoda recommend but HJ recommends a fair few other parts are replaced at the same time. I am willing to err on the side of caution and follow best practice, even if it costs a bit more. I intend to keep this excellent vehicle for as long as possible and have always had it dealership maintained in every respect. This has meant a good relationship with the dealer and possibly some good will if required in the future. If the dealer says that the other parts are not normally changed with the cambelt should I insist on the work being done anyway? Your comments would be appreciated. Concrete. Read more
Hindsight is a wonderful thing when maintaining vehicles - but I have one overriding principle which is to go some way to avoid known trouble points.
The VAG water pumps were made with plastic impellers either to save weight (they went through a "funny phase" of doing this a few years ago) or to cheapen the manufacture of a part with a complex shape. Either way, these pumps have not distinguished themselves in service. It is absolutely unthinkable that any good Teuton would operate his machine with the incorrect coolant strength......
Can anyone please tell me where the data link input connection plug is located and how to get to it on a 2007 Touran?
Many thanks for your help
I've recently had an engine change on my Ford Galaxy.It has suddenly started to get the Oil Pressure Warning message appear on the dash display.
My mechanic has changed the Oil Pump,Oil,Oil Switch and checked the Strainer and return hose.All seem fine.
He has now told me the oil is only spitting at the dipstick instead of running up it.
I have spent an absolute fortune on it so far.
Does this mean my engine is about to seize up,or could there be a blockage elsewhere? Read more
Partial success then Rich. I assume your oil lamp is out, but you have a warning message that needs resetting?
Hi, I am just looking for some advice. I have an 09 Ford Focus - looking to replace. My local garage has 2011 (new) VW golf Twist 5 door at 12995. It seems on the face of it, a reasonable deal.
What do people think?... Read more
1.4 is an old engine.
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ive a 97 306 1.9 diesel car turning over but wont start, checked selenoid it ok and electric gettin through, fuel in filter and no air detected flowing through to diesel pump, unscrewed fuel line on diesel pump side but no fuel gettin through, stopped yesterday towed it and it started drove 4 miles then stopped and wont start again, can anyone help me or tell me wat else to check . thanks Read more
thanks for your help
Hi all,
Looking at the 1.7 diesel Korean in 2 or Style spec, or the 2.0 2WD yeti in SE spec. I like them both TBH, but as I intend to keep whatever I get for a while, is it worth the longer warranty on the Koreans?... Read more
Ive got a 20 mile each way drive, mostly dual carrageway, to work which would justify ( Ithink) getting a diesel. TBH I did like the inside of the ix35 I test drive, although it was premium spec, with navi. Yeti was SE which, although it has everything I wanted, is bit unfair to compare.
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Blimey, the price has come down. I had my DPF replaced at 92k, it cost £1100 ish.