March 2011
It appears that the problem with the dipstick bottom end measuring section snapping off isn't uncommon. It happened to me the other day. The mistake I made was slightly turning the dipstick inside the tube. The bottom end of the tube inside the sump has two bends in it like a slightly flattend out 'S'. Unusually compared with other engines, this tube is longer than the dipstick and the part that broke off was stuck inside the bottom end of the dipstick tube in the last bend. This meant it couldn't get into the engine (not a chance I would take even now knowing this) but also I couldn't check the oil level. Another unusual fact was that the big ends and crankshaft are set quiet well up into the block and so couldn't actually reach the broken part of the dipstaick even if it had protruded out the end of the tube. All this was only found out by removing the sump. this is pretty easy, the hardest part being breaking the seal between the sump and the block. A scraper or putty knife used carefully with patience will evetually break the seal. Make sure the oil is drained first (!) and that you have a supply of gasket sealent (Usually the blue variety) as a traditional cork gasket isn't used here.
Ordered a new dipstick from Ford (line of thought being that one out of a scrap yard might already be weakened and break again) but it is supplied with the external part of the dipstick tube even though I didn't think I needed it. Cost around £24. Read more
I have just bought a Nissan Note 1.5 dci with a mere 27k on the clock on a 56 plate. The gears are hard to engage from cold particularly in cold weather. I saw H.J. suggest changing the gear oil to one motorist recently who had a different car but the same problem. Was wondering what oil should I change to? I think a synthetic oil was recommended? Read more
These are simular to Micra's.
The gear linkage,which has nylon bushes are prone to wear very early....
After the winter we've had, and the difficulty I experienced getting anywhere, I am seriously looking into finding four steel wheels for my Mk2 Focus, and getting winter tyres on them so I can move them over come October time so I am not caught out again.
Normally the tyres are pretty expensive, but I did find these:
tinyurl.com/6352crt
Which are £39 each delivered, and there is a local place that will happily put tyres on for a fiver a wheel. So not a massive amount of outlay.
I'm not happy with the idea of using part-worns -- I know some people advocate them but I don't like the idea of driving on something that hasn't been thoroughly tested before sale as many of them haven't -- but by the same token I'm not overly impressed with the idea of spending £400 on a second set of tyres.
Do you think these would be OK? I have noted that the reviews for these tyres ("Winter Tact" of Germany) seem fairly positive, but that word "remould" still carries a stigma so I am not sure.
Any views appreciated. Read more
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When I was a young lad---- That was a long time ago and the only 'snow' tyres I could get for my Mini Clubman Estate (I got through three of those as each one rusted away) were the tyres used in Mini Grasstrack racing - Uniband Rally Remoulds! They were, however, brilliant in snow and after a back-end slide on ice in a Fiesta with Summer tyres a few Winters ago, I'm decided to always use the correct tyres in Winter. My experience of today's Winter tyres is - - Vredestein Snowtrack - Brilliant on snow and ice; Vredestein Quatrac 3 - Very good in snow, good on ice, but not brilliant. Quatracs really are a good choice for all-year-round use but may let you down on an icy hill. My local tyre-fitter is enthusiastic about Kleber Quadraxers, which he says are brilliant in snow.
My Mk6 Fiesta came fitted with 15" wheels and 50-profile tyres, whereas the pre-2006 model was fitted with 14" wheels and 65-profile tyres. A couple of the latest Mk7 Fiesta models are fitted with the 14" wheels so as to use less fuel. Fitting 14" wheels and 175/65 R14 snow tyres gives me a much more comfortable ride, the car 'drives' better with lower fuel consumption and I'm loathe to go back to the harder ride of 195/50 R15 tyres! Finding 14" Fiesta wheels in scrap yards was hard work and I got sold some very rusty wheels, which were then stolen by the metal thieves whilst I was wire-brushing them at the back of the house! But this Winter, I've found a couple of alloy-wheel suppliers who are offering to supply a full set of steel wheels ready fitted with Winter tyres to fit most cars. The wheels are made in Germany by KFZ (there's a YouTube video of the factory) and you get a choice of tyres. Here's two that I've found---...
Mistakenly put 25 litres petrol into already half full tank of diesel. Started and ran car for 8 to 15 seconds then switched off when realised mistake. Green Flag drained tank & refilled with fresh diesel. Car stared ok and ran smoothly without misfire or displaying any engine management lights. Car now starts cold ok and runs fine but when hot starting it requires cranking over for about 10 - 15 seconds before it will fire. Not sure what damage I may have done, can anyone help? Read more
Thanks to all for your replies. The tank was drained yesterday and the car was run for 140 miles without a problem. I will try changing the filter and using some of the additive that you suggested and report back. Thanks again.
Hi All
... Read more
A bit of alloy scaffold or aerial mast would probably do it, or even a section of exhaust.
Scaffold might be a bit thick walled and heavy, but aluminium aerial mast or exhaust would be idea, and a b***** site cheaper than a Ford replacement pipe !!!...
Hi i desperately need some ideas, my usually very reliable peugeot 406 hasnt been starting since the last lot of snow. I have had the glow plugs changed and still no luck. It will bump start and jump start eventualy, the battery has also been checked and that is ok too. the last time it started there was thick black smoke coming out of the exhaust, could this be a clue? once car has been started it runs fine and will start for the day but the next day it turns over but does not start. please any suggestions would be great :0) xxxxxxxx Read more
Slacken an injector pipe and turn the engine over and see if there is any fuel coming out if not the fuel solonoid in the pump may be sticking, if its a very early engine you may be able to get to it but I think most are buried inside armour on the pump.
I ride a Yamaha XJR1300 and have recently had a rear tyre puncture. As the tyre, a Continental Motion, has only covered around 400 miles I decided to have it repaired rather than replaced. The tyre had "Slime" in it which probaly slowed the deflation but didn't seal the puncture. I have suffered several punctures inthe past but usually on older tyres so had them replaced. I have only had one other tyre "plugged" abd this went on for several thousand more milescwith no problems. I know its a bit late to ask this now but just how safe are these repairs at prolonged motorway speed? Any experiences out there? Read more
i`ve had plugs in tyres for years and never had one go bad had one done last month £15 all in safer then using slime :)
Hi, can anyone recommend a good auto electrician in Surrey to investigate a power window and sunroof fault, there seem to be quite a few options
regards... Read more
There is loud scretching noise coming from the back of the car mostly on the drivers side.
The hand brake is really hard to pull up?... Read more
This is a well known problem, but has anyone been able to get Honda UK to agree to replace the clutch master cylinder free of charge? It seems to me this problem has been around - unsolved - for so long, that Honda are negligent under the Sale of Goods Act, which makes manufacturers liable for 6 years if they fit a knowingly substandard part. Read more
I'm told Honda have modified the clutch master cylinder now which cures the problem.
Mine was replaced in 2008 but has started squeaking again....
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