March 2011
Hi there
I recently cleaned my LHM tank as fluid was all old, I have replaced with Hyraflush , Since change my power steering is on/off , I am not sure if this is air in the steering or low pressure!... Read more
Does anyone know where I can get details of the minimum permissable load and speed ratings for a 1.6 petrol MK2 Ford Focus (2007)?
The tyres on the car currently are 91V. The tyre sheds come up with an answer of 91W, but I am interested to know if 91H is acceptable on a winter tyre?... Read more
Thanks for all the responses, especially turbo11. If a very similar car (which the Mazda3 is) can take the H tyres, and three major tyre manufacturers say it's OK, then I'm fairly happy with that.
I'll give the car another look over tomorrow, but I have to say that I've not found anything to suggest the answer to the question on any labels....
I have a 2002 Renault Scenic 1.9 DCI with 70k
The electronic fault warning light (also heater plug on light) intermitently comes on with no apparent problem.
It always seems to come on when driving up an incline then goes off after the top is reached or it comes on when you throttle then goes off when you release the throttle. I have checked the turbo hoses, they're all secure.
I then went to the garage and paid £40, they printed out the following;
Connect to sun scanner and read ecu memory for faults, intermittent fault stored with egr valve flow p 1826, cleared fault from system and reset, no fault present on road test, customer to monitor, if fault returns a new egr valve will be required.
The electronic fault warning light still comes on when you throttle, then off when foot is off throttle.
What is a egr valve and how much is it approx? Where is it situated, i.e. is it in a tricky place?
The garage estimated £500, but this includes changing front brake pads Read more
Looking to change my tyres as after 11,000 miles(steady driving) they are wearing out! Currently on Pirelli RF, are these the most suitable or is there another make that offers a comfortable ride and is longer lasting? Read more
You don't have to have the spare/can thingy BUT to comply with the law you do.-anyway why risk a flat tyre that cannot be repaired?
and as for "advice" re changing the suspension - do you really think that BMW change suspension settings for es versus se models?
Hi,
I was hit by an uninsured driver and my car was written off.... Read more
I'm sorry to hear of your horrendous experience, but however frustrating it is there are insurance policies on offer to cover just these senario's.
One is gap insurance and NCB protection. Whilst it is frustrating that if everyone is insured you shouldnt need them sadly the world doesnt work like a clock....
Hi,
Before my third kids arrives I am looking at getting a bigger car to fit them all in. Any pointers on ones that will get three car seats accross the back? With about 3.5k I am looking at either a Zafira 1.8 with 20k on the clock or a Renault Grand Scenic 1.9 deisel with 60k on the clock, both of them around 2005.... Read more
Hello YorkDad,
To be honest a Zafira will do 10k a year easier with less trouble than a Scenic. The Zafira will be a bit gutless and heavy on fuel etc but the engine will be more reliable than the diesel in the Renault. The inside of a Zafira feels much more cheap inside than a Scenic ( have had three Zafira's now off hire companies). The Scenic is the more luxury comfortable car but one with 60k is a risky investment....
I'm going to get the cambelt changed on the Mitsubishi (Space Star, 4G18 1.6 engine, nothing too exotic), and priced up the belt/tensioner/pump at around £100 or so. Asked my local garage about it and they agreed that the tensioner and pump should be done at the same time, and quoted about £220 which is exactly the kind of money I was expecting (possibly a little less).
Just out of curiosity I called the local Mitsu dealer and, predictably, got a slightly silly quote of £460, including £104+VAT just for the pump. One thing that took me aback a bit was that they didn't seem to think that the tensioner and pump were necessary.
Sure enough, on looking back at the previous cambelt change (at 54K, the car is currently 108K so at the point where it's required again), at that point the belt was replaced but the pump and tensioner were not. This work was done by a main dealer (not the one I called today).
I did not ask, but I suspect that, given the prices I've been quoted for parts, the dealer would end up charging around £200 for the cambelt by itself.
The tensioners on these cars are metal so I can appreciate that they may well last rather better than the mid-90s Vauxhalls for example.
Now the question I'm now asking myself is, do I listen to my gut (and my local indie), or are Mitsubishi correct on this one?
I'm inclined to pay the extra £70-80 or so to get everything replaced but am curious now. Read more
HI I KNOW THIS IS A BIT LATE NOW BUT,
MY MIT HAS COME UP UP TO THE 50K, I LOOKED AT THE SERVICE SHEET AND NO PREVIOUS TO SUGGEST BELT HAD ALREADY BEEN CHANGED. BOUGHT "THE KIT" WHICH WAS A BELT AND A BIG FAT WHEEL BEARING....
The gearbox packed up big end on A170 CDI W-reg. The car only did 90k is very clean otherwise.
I think I have two options:... Read more
as andy quite rightly says, ghastly car for reliability and a pig to work on so labour is always high for repairs & that is if you can find someone keen enough to work on it ! Bit like opening a tin of worms. This wasn't merc finest hour
I've been having a real problem with the idle on my 53
plate micra. It started as a minor thing when if i was
sitting waiting in traffic you could feel the engine speed
dip. Over the space of a few weeks it got a lot worse where
eventually i had to keep the revs up in order for it not to
stall. I decided to take it into a local garage where i was
told it was a problem with the drive chain. Anyhow £500
later the problem still exists but only when the engine is
cold on start up. Once the engine has warmed it runs
without any problem. Any help out there Read more
hiya mate did you get the problem fixed what was it?
I cant understand that this is related to the turbo,but ok im taking all good ideas here.
Same on my 99 TD voyager,u can feel turbo kicks in about 1700rpm then at about 1900rpm u loose power ,almost as u let up the trottle to almost idle speed, if u move trottle in and out over 1900rpm there is no difference if u have little or full trottle,and... Read more
The problem is now solwed, in my case it was the injector #1 (with the sensor one)
I think theese problems with the redused boost is the faulty code in ECU....


Oh dear, sorry to hear about that, case of one job leading to another - an unnecessary one at that!
Peter