March 2011
Hi I wondered if anybody has any suggestions regarding the above fault p0505 (idle control voltage high) have had this problem for a while .I have changed the throttle bodies twice and had the values adapted to the ecu but the fault still remained, next course of action was to have the ecu sent away for test was told fault on 5volt side authorised repair .On refitting the ecu I decided to put a code reader on before starting the engine so that all was lit was the dash lights the ecu still had p0505 fault still present which I found odd after the ecu was supposed to have been fixed and tested and also I would have thoght the engine had to be running to trigger the code.I reset the light and tried starting the car and it ran ok for about 5 minutes and then put the light on.Are these simtec 70 ecu worth repairing or would it be best to replace it with a new one . Any thoghts and replies regarding this fault are very much appreciated has I am lost with where to go next.The car has also been in the dealers who are not sure but think it could be the ecu.
Thanks Nigel Read more
Cam belt changed at 46,000 miles on purchase of car. 5 months later and 4000 miles, water pump seized and shredded the cam belt causing £2000 of damage. claim against finance company was not up held as independent engineer reported that I should of heard a noise prior to the water pump seizing. Also the bearings would be put down to fair wear and tear. never heard any noise, I have heard that they can seize suddenly. The car was bought from alfa specialist and they insist that they would not normally change a water pump when changing the cam belt. I find this hard to believe as the water pump is driven by the cam belt, wouldn't any good garage recommend the change? any advice would be grateful. Read more
Maybe you were overtightening them.
We have 2 cars, a newish Ford Focus and a 3 year old A4. Both cars are well cared for but even though only the Audi does a lot of motorway miles, both have perenially smeary windscreens.
I have tried everything I know to cure this as follows :-... Read more
Although poor water quaIity has been mentioned, I'm surprised that in the last six years no-one has mentioned rainwater from a drainpipe butt for the windscreen wash bottle and the very occasional (once or twice in 13yrs for our Focus) coolant top-up. It is the purest natural source of water there is. I also use it for washing the car. It doesn't smear so no need to wipe clean and dry which inevitably dulls paintwork after a few years. It's also free!
Rain water quality does vary according to where you live - the clouds dispense consistent quality but the rain will wash pollutants out of the air so if you're in the prevailing wind shadow of a large town/city or a major industrial centre then the rain water quality won't be as good....
Hi Guys,
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New 3 door 1.4VTi Sport from driverthedeal.com - £10,500.
Don't think the 1.4 petrol engine has any big issues - is normally reserved for diesel engines that pootle around too much....
CAN ANYONE CONFIRM ON HOW TO TIME UP THE CHAIN ON THIS VEHICLE AS I HAVE COME TO MY WITS END AS THERE IS NO TEQHNICAL DATA AVAILABLE AND SSANGYONG THEMSELVES ARE NOT WILLING TO COME FORWARD WITH THE INFOMATION. Read more
YOU ARE RIGHT WITH IT BEING A MERCEDES ENGINE,THE ONLY PROB IS THAT ALL AUXILLARYS INSIDE ARE DIFFERENT, SO IF I LOOK AT 2.7 MERCEDES IT COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. THANKS FOR THE REPLY. THIS IS GOING TO BE A HARD ONE FOR ME.
Folks,
Some advice would be appreciated. OK, so i have an intermittent problem with clutch, it went soft for a day or 2 and then went back to normal a couple of times, the last time it went soft started only engaging half way until it wouldnt almost engage.
I took car to local garage, mecanic could not find (external) leaks, so he bled it and car seemed good again.
Short lived however, 2 days later the clutch gone soft but then went back to normal. This seems to happened if i press de clutch for along period coming to trafic lights and it starts to get worse over time until it is almost impossible to engage gears.
So i rang the garage they told me that either the master or the slave cylinder has internal leaks but not sure which one. He said most common is the master going bad but could not guarantee that was the master, warning that could be slave.
I have a Y reg laguna 2 1.6 petrol, so if i have to change slave it is a lot of money for this model.
The car is parked on drive away and not sure if i want to risk to replace the master and then later realise that it could be the slave component.
So, what are your opinion? Does this sound like the symptoms of a bad slave or would i expect other symptoms too.
Please advise, thanks. Read more
If its the slave cylinder thats faulty you will be loosing fluid, if its the master cylinder probably not as the fluid is escaping past the seals back into the cylinder. If the disengagement point gets nearer the floor each time you use it, or if you keep your foot on the pedal - that points to the master cylinder.
With the first version on the dpf on the 2.0 tdci engine does it suffer from the same problems as these new dpf, i mean the short drive and regeneration issue?
The version i have on my car needs the fluid topup every 37k Read more
Blimey, the price has come down. I had my DPF replaced at 92k, it cost £1100 ish.
I have noticed a weird burning smell over the last few days from the engine bay and thought the car was labouring when driving, (i.e no pick up in higher gears on the flat). Last night it was worse than ever and when I hit about 50 mph the steering wheel was vibrating quite noticeably and all in all made for a distressing 45 minutes of motoring. When I eventually arrived back home I felt a brief wave of heat as I opened the door and quickly located the source....that being the front offside wheel. It was seriously hot to the point of not being able to touch it.
I had all brakes replaced last year about 4 or 5k ago and other than being a bit squeeky, have given me no problems. My other thought was a wheel bearing seized, but I have had no evidence to believe it was 'on its way out', by way of a noise etc.... Read more
NEEDS A NEW CALIPER AND A BRAKE FLUID CHANGE, PISTON RUSTS INSIDE DUE TO THE FLUID BEING HYDROSCOPIC( MEANING IT ABSORBS WATER) THEN CANT RETURN IN TO THE CALIPER PASSED THE SEAL NEW CALIPER WILL FIX THIS PROBLEM, ABOUT £60 FROM LOCAL AUTOFACTORS.
Well 1200 miles ito a new B7 VW Passat 2.0Tdi SE I am astounded to find that I am acheiving an actual 61.4 mpg (based on fill up). For a fairly fast and quiet family car I am truly astounded. My old Volvo V50 2.0D with 42,000 miles struggled to reach 44 mpg with the same driving style. Just hope it lasts the pace. Read more
Thanks for this advice re the oil level. Driving was on a mix of motorway and light unobstructed country roads keeping within speed limits. I am conviced the stop start has a significant contribution to city driving too.
I'm having some trouble removing the fanbelt on my combo van. The chap in the garage said I just need to loosen the nut on the tensioner and it will come off. It sounded easy, but now i've got it home I loosen the nut and it does nothing! In-fact I can take it out completely and still the belt remains too tight to remove...What am I doing wrong?
PS Im not just loosening the wrong nut. Its definitely the tensioner as it moves when i pull the belt tight. Read more
put the bolt back in, do it up then try doing it up even more, this will swing the whole tensioner arm away from the belt it is called a self tensioner or automatic tensioner.
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Hi Nigel
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