November 2008

ram_machine

Yesterday I bought an X-reg 306 Hdi, 5dr Meridian, which has done 80k. Limited Service history but lots of old mots, the odd receipt etc. It only has one previous owner. It is seriously underpowered from 1500rpm upwards. The engine sounds sweet as a nut, and im very confident the mileage is genuine. It doesn't smoke at all, not even cold, under load or when accelerating. I cant hear the turbo, where as you clearly can on the other 306 HDi's I've owned. And also I've noticed that distinctive 'ticking' and air gushing (sorry crap description!) sound you normally get when you put your foot down in 5th gear is missing altogether? At a guess I'd say the Turbo is not working at all. Could this be an airflow sensor problem, opening the wastegate all the time?

Performance wise, its like driving a naturally aspirated diesel really? The engine is really clean, no sign of oil anywhere I can see. No lights on the dash, (bar the ABS light which came on on the way home but is a red herring i assume!). When its not under load the engine revs quite normally, and easily revs upto 3500-4000 rpm. When under load though, it takes forever to get upto 3000rpm. You can rev it really hard in 2nd, but when you change upto 3rd it takes ages to accelerate up from 1900- 2600.

Im not a complete mug when it comes to mechanicing, and iv always serviced my 306's myself, but Im not sure where to start looking with this problem! It is driveable, and i needed a car urgently, so I knocked him down from £2100 and got it for £1700 hoping this would give me enough room to get it fixed without making it a really expensive car!

I would be really grateful for any help you can give me guys.

Regards,
Sam

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Marky D

I have a 2000W 306Hdi. Same problem - no go, like the turbo was not working. Garage ran diagnostics said MAF sensor was working fine, no error codes. Read this thread and asked the mechanic to disconnet MAF sensor, bingo, power back. Sourced a peugeot MAF sensor and fitted today. Car has never gone so well.

Thanks very useful

Polly

We live in a residential housing estate and my husband has a works van, our car is on the drive to ensure safety for me and my toddler and the van is parked outside our house part on road part on kerb to allow access for other vehicles to pass. Skip lorries etc can pass freely.

This has been the case for 4 yrs, no one has ever commented.Our neighbours over the rd all have 2 cars 1=drive 1=road but you can get past them all. Albeit you have to slow down as they create a chicane (not a problem in my eyes as there are many children on this estate so go slow is good).
However over the last 2 mths 2 or 3 times per wk a car on entering the street upon reaching our house and until quite far past just blares his horn. This is always between 9-9.30pm. This would not bother me too much but it has woken my 2 yr old on several occasions so now i am furious.

We now know who it is and where they live, I do not want to go doing the same outside his house as this will disturb his neighbours but have considered a note asking for some consideration. he has not actually approached anyone of us so we do not know who he exactly has a problem with.
Soory for long post...any advice

Typo in header corrected Read more

GroovyMucker

That is very good advice jbif. Your previous post too was very much to the
point.


Blimey.

If Lud's going to start rating posts, that's me done for.

;-(
johnnygreenboots

On the way home tonight whilst going round a roundabout the ESP light and service lights came up on the dashboard. Got home and re-started the car hoping the lights would dissapear but still on. I tried switching the ESP switch off with the button on the dash, but no effect. I am concerned this may be an expensive fix as I belive the ESP is linked to the ABS. Wondered if anyone has come across this before and if this should be a main dealer fix. I have had the car from new, 60k miles FRSH. Read more

johnnygreenboots

I had a full set of Continental tyres fitted and the tracking done and the ESP light went off. The garage said the tracking was "a mile out". The reault dealer found no fault logged. I was feeling very smug with myself about getting a deal with the cambelt/Aux belts from a Renault main agent. But suprise-surpise they found once they had removed the belts they informed me the crankshaft pulley was on its way out, so reccomended it was changed at the same time. So as always they got me in the end.

DaveyH

Hello Everbody,

My fathers 406HDi 110 has decided to start displaying the engine management light, and after a quick code read using the memoscan U581 (with latest updates installed) it picked the fault up straight away as 'p0220 TPS/ pedal position sensor/ Switch b circuit malfunction' Fair enough we thought, the unit should clear that, however, that is the problem, the u581 will quickly and easily read the code, but it refuses to clear it, and does nothing but relink itself whenever we try and clear. Any idea of what it could be? dodgy unit maybe? Any suggestions will be welcome, as my father is a very competant mechanic (currently working at citreon), thank you very much in advance, David. Read more

MikeR5

Sorry about taking ages to reply, there does not seem to be any coolant leaking but the clutch still seems to be slipping and getting worse - so I am assuming now it is a worn clutch. Though now theres another problem, my average fuel consumption has gone down by about 20mpg! I thought this may have been caused by the clutch slipping, but seems too excessive. Recently (about 4 weeks ago) I erased the p0220 code and it has not come up again, could this have lowered my fuel consumption? The car does not lack in performance apart from the clutch slipping when I drive the car hard, and there is no black smoke or warning lights. I have used an injector treatment in the fuel but this has made no difference with my average fuel consumption now at 38.8mpg(mostly motorway miles!) Regards,Mike.

Radar

So I find myself sat in front of a spreadsheet trying to work out which company car to change to next year. A combination of the leasing costs on my company's scheme, list price, emissions etc means that a BMW 318i Touring looks like a very attractive replacement for my current Ford Focus Estate 2.0TDCi.

One factor that may actually make the maths even more favorable is that in moving from a diesel to a petrol I benefit from the increasing difference in cost between the two fuels and the fact that for my business miles I will be able to claim 3p a mile more. All this assumes that the BMW Efficient Dynamics really do make the fuel consumption of the 318i only about 10% worse than my Diesel Focus in the real world. Any comments on how realistic this is? My driving is the usual mixture of motorways, urban hold ups and the occasional "open road". The Focus returns anything between 45 and just over 50mpg depending on the exact mix for that tank full.

Obviously I will get to test drive the BMW (and others) for a couple of days but any comments on how much difference I will notice in the reduction in torque between the Diesel Focus and Petrol BMW?

Anything else I have missed? Read more

Bobbin Threadbare

It's 2008 thread time all over again.

I wonder why people come back and do this. They must search, because who could be bothered clicking back through hundreds of pages?!

Richard Stanton

There is a "STOP Brake Fail" warning that keeps appearing intermittently during driving on my Passat Estate 1.9TDi. Of course the brakes are working and I would like know what should be done. Interestingly, it especially keeps coming on when I turn right while the car is in motion. Anyone with a suggestion?


Moved over from Discussion Read more

Hamsafar

It's usually just a stupid VW way of saying "Check Brake Fluid". Especially if it happens on corners etc...

Lta


***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 1 *****

Help!

My Corsa Breeze 1.2 petrol cam shaft has snapped and I think Vauxhall are being pretty harsh. It's had one lady owner (!) and has been looked after well.

I was driving on the motorway at 70 on Saturday when there was a noise and then the oil light and eps light came on and the engine died. Only just managed to get it onto the hard shoulder in time or it could have been very very nasty indeed.

Called Green Flag and he was fairly sure the camshaft had snapped but was astonished as the car is only an 05 reg with 24,000 miles on the clock. It was bought new from a vauxhall dealership and has been serviced regularly at the same dealership, the last service only being last month. Trouble is the warranty ran out in August.

Called a friend who was astonished and thinks it has to be a manufacturing fault and Vauxhall should pay some or all of the cost of having it repaired as he thinks it could cost around £2500 for a new engine. However been dealing with them today and they'll only offer 60% and won't budge.

Anyone I ask at work and on forums thinks it wasn't fit for purpose and must be a manufacturing error.

Have rung Trading Standards who on one hand say they have made an offer and they can't officially judge whether its a fair on or not but on the other say under Sale of Good Acts a major part like this shouldn't break within 6 years.

Any advice. I really can't afford the £1000+ bill at the minute which is what they're quoting.

Thanks for your time! Read more

teachbecky77

I have a 53 plate Corsa Design 1.2 16v and I've seen two mechanics for my noisy engine and they both say it is as if the car has been 'clocked', the timing chain is so worn. The car is only at 37000 miles. Servicing doesn't help the engine to sound any better either.

They've said nothing about the cam shaft but I will be getting it checked. I've emailed Vauxhall but, having read what's on this board, I don't expect a reply.

If anyone would like to take a case to Vauxhall and/or Watchdog, I'm willing. I think we have to push these things as the first time, they will say no. We have to keep going with it.

I'm going back to the mechanic today and will get the oil and cam shaft bolts checked and whether either the chain, bolts of shaft are loose or damaged in any way.

jppk

On a Motorway drive of about 100 miles, the temperature guage started increasing from the normal mid point towards the red point, this initially started happening when we reached crawling traffic and 2nd gear seemed to effect it the most.

After a while it went back to the mid point.

Then a little further on the needle pointed at the red again.

As we were waiting for pick up we had a look in the engine there seemed to be nothing unusual with coolant or fan.....


Any ideas would be great.

Thanks


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mikej

The removal procedure for the 1.6 CHT sensor seems fairly straight forward - it's just on the top of the engine block between two of the spark plugs according to the Haynes manual. You just need to make sure you have a new sensor to fit, as they're distorted when screwed into place so shouldn't be re-used.

It's much more difficult to change on the 1.8 as it's on the back of the engine block and harder to get to, meaning that a number of other components need to be removed to get to it (the alternator for one IIRC)

pdc {P}

Last Thursday I was driving home when the MFD alerted me to stop, and indicated that there was a problem with the Oil Pressure on my diesel engined Passat. Having ignored such warnings in years gone by, and having learned my lesson, I stopped straight away.

I checked the oil level, as the handbook suggested, and it was fine. The handbook advised that if that was the case, I should seek professional assistance. I called the RAC and they recovered the car back home, as it was 11pm, and no garage was open.

A friends son, who is a mechanic with Honda, popped over the next day and plugged his diagnostic kit in to the car. The RAC guy and my friend's son both thought that maybe there was a sensor fault or an oil pump fault, but neither of these were reported. The only fault reported was "175057/P0673 Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit - Q12".

I've Googled that error code and as it suggests, it's simply a dodgy glow plug.

I'm finding it very hard to get a tow to the local VW garage which is just 2.7 miles away and I'm wondering if anyone can shed any more info on what could be the cause of these symptoms, and whether it would be ok to drive to the dealership. Friends son suggested it would be OK to do so, but I am worried I will damage the engine.

The warning doesn't come on straight away, and only shows when I move the car.

Almost all that I've read about the oil pressure warning online, following a Google search, suggest that it might be a simple case of needing an oil change. Indeed, the Service in xxx miles indicator had been showing since the start of last week, and finally turned to SERVICE NOW just 200 or so miles before the STOP OIL PRESSURE warning showed.

I guess what I'm asking is that if the pressure sensor was faulty or if the oil pump had failed, would that have been reported by the diagnostic tools? Read more

pdc {P}

Well the RAC did a follow on tow for me, and it was left with VW last night. Turns out there is a small leak from a pipe and also the "rocker cover" (??)

So nothing too major.

Still, as the car has done 76k in 3 years, I think I'll be getting rid, as this is probably the first of many problems to come.

Rudedog

My new car is due it's first MoT next year.

How will I know exactly when to book it in? Will it be due on the date that I took delivery of the car or maybe when the garage did the PDI on it.

Also will I still be able to take it in a month early to have the test and still get the certificate post-dated like I could if I already had a MoT?

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martint123

I'd take your V5 to play safe. One months worth of MOT isn't worth much, but for the sake of carrying it "just in case" might be wise.