November 2008
Hi,
Hoping one of the technical gurus out there can help me. I have a 2000 W-reg Escort Van, a 1.8 diesel (non turbo).
During the last week or so it has become very hard to start in the morning, the battery cranks the engine fine but it just won't fire up. Eventually after a lot of smoke it starts, then will run and start fine all day (doesn't smoke once running).
I figured this was glow plugs as it coincided with the cold weather, so changed them. The ones that came out were very sooty and pretty old. However, next morning, no change, still a nightmare to start, but then once running it starts first time all day.
I had something similar on an old BMW years ago and eventually sorted it by putting a non-return valve on the fuel pipe, on the engine side of the filter, but on the Escort its harder to see where this should go.
Any ideas much appreciated!
Cheers
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Off to look at a 2002 Saab 9-5 3.0 TiD estate next week. Manual with 80k miles and full Saab history. Potential replacement for a 1999 9-5 2.3T estate that is still going strong. The Car by Car Break Down gives this model a very poor rating so should I stay at home? On offer at £3995 with potential £1250 trade in for the 99 model. Thanks Read more
Some excellent points here, I have had a 3.0L on a 54 plate for a year now and aside from a big outlay when the fuel pump needed replacing..........the part was fairly cheap, the labour was horrendous with a SAAB specialist, it has been a joy, so comfortable it should come with a health warning, cheap to run. It still needs some new bits and pieces, mainly sensors that need replacing. My main problem has been finding garages willing to take on any work on it, hence the specialist route.
I have found a coolant leak on my Mk3 Golf Cabriolet 1.8. I had topped up the coolant last weekend after the warning light came on and when it relit on Wednesday after refilling Sunday I was starting to think coolant was leaking into the head gasket. I tested the oil by letting a little drip onto the manifold and it did not sizzle so I was convinced the system was leaking somewhere.
I just got back from a drive to the shop and checked under the bonnet when I got home to see coolant spraying out of a metal pipe in large quantities at high pressure.
I've had the car for less than a month and can't deal with another expensive repair bill after the alternator just went and am hoping there may be a quick fix or simple repair to either fill the small hole in the pipe or replace it for not much cash.
I've included some links to pics and it literally happened half hour ago.
i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr37/smoutyimages/2911...g
i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr37/smoutyimages/2911...g
i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr37/smoutyimages/2911...g
i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr37/smoutyimages/2911...g
The images show the coolant spraying from the metal pipe onto (I think) the starter motor. Does anybody know if there is a quick easy fix for this. My knowledge of cars is a bit limited but if there is a quick fix that will given some time to fix the problem properly that would be great. Any help appreciated. I've read about additives like K Seal which would seal the hole but considering the leak is visible it seems silly to pollute the whole system with an additive.
Does anybody have an idea how much this would cost me to fix at the garage. I would think it would just be a case of replacing the pipe. Does anybody know what the pipe is called so I could see if I could find one down a scrap yard to try and save myself some money.
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That pipe is not going to last much longer whatever you do to it;fit a new one as soon as possible.The cost of a new pipe is much less than a seized engine.A small square of rubber and a hose clip will block it long enough to get to a supplieror even a self-tapper in the hole.
Ive been looking at the Daihatsu Sirion so I thought it only fair to look at the Perodua Myvi aswell. Now as far as I can tell, buying the Perodua, you loose two years warranty
( altho still get 3 ), a set of alloys and some parking sensors that are mounted in the numberplate surround ( just two ). For this you get a saving of £1000 which to me, seems like a good saving. have I missed something? I compared spec as best I could.
I looked around one today and I actually liked it more than the Sirion, especially the interior trim which was a light stone grey cloth, which made the interior feel alot brighter than the black on black in the Sirion. It does feel a little more basic but I couldnt put my finger on why as all the kit is there.
I do have a service outlet within half hour from me and the dealer I visited was 30 miles away but also a Kia outlet, not the backstreet outlet that some dealers are ( dealer network being an issue for some ).
I just have this little voice in my head saying Perodua are a mickey mouse business always on the brink of collapse ( well uk imports anyway ). Is this the case or am I just running scared of a relatively unknown brand? Id be interested to know HJ's take on Perodua as a company. Read more
I do apologise, I misread your post. Comment withdrawn.
Yours,
The Next Speaker of the House
I need to buy a bicycle carriers [to carry max 2 bikes - most of time will carry only 1 bike]
I need to fit this in Suzuki Ignis [here's a pix for quick reference - tinyurl.com/5emfuh]
Question:
[1] Which is better - roof or rear carrier? [better in the sense of price, ease of fix etc.]
I saw one rear carrier at Halfords but it requires extra lighting!
[2] any particular carrier recommendation? [as cheap as possible provided doesn't fall of]
Thanx Read more
If you do choose the roof-mounted option, keep your wits about you when parking.
I know someone who forgot they were up there until he drove into a multi-storey car park...
I'm impressed by the latest sale discounts and having looked around have found the NEW prices compare well to the low mileage or ex demo values. I don't have loads of money but really need to buy something economical and about 1.300 ccs ... just help me out here and make a few comments, forgive me if this is a bit vague, put it down to age and mistrust and insecurity .... good of anyone to take the time - Roger Read more
BTW Just in case Roger is still reading this thread, it seems the new facelifted Yaris is coming early next year and will use the new 1.33 dual vvti engine that has just appeared in the Auris. Higher power, lower emissions and better fuel economy accordingy to the specs. Some limited info here:
www.autointel.com/blog/?p=1785
Higher prices too, though, undoubtedly, and the worry of an new untested engine.
Anyway, the pending facelift helps explain the keen prices at brokers for the current model (as well as the credit crunch etc).
Just seen a Volvo X70 4x4 thingy with the reg X70 VOL.
Just curious what posseses people to buy a car that has name badges on the back anyway and they prompty bung on a number plate that probably costs them a packet plus transfer fees that tells anyone following that they're behind...wait for it...a Volvo X70!
Do owners buy a plate first then a car to match or the other way round?
And what happens when they stop making that model and you're left holding a reg plate with a bunch of worthless numbers and letters.
Discuss Read more
I saw AUD1 16V many years ago - great at the time when 16v engines were hot stuff, but it's not worth 2p now, I guess, except for a classic Audi.
AUD 124V spotted a while back - on a Citroen C15 (Visa) van!!
A bit like when you see a 320d with an "M3" or even "M5" number plate - either they used to have the car to match or they're saving like mad for one!
And yes, I realise how old this thread is...
Hello all,
Grateful for some advice on this one.
Aware this is a known problem so hopefully easy answers for you all!
As the title suggests - how do I get the plugs out? I really, really, really, really, really don't want to break the plugs!
I've soaked in WD40 for 12 hours and applied a bit of force. Nothing. Stopped there before I break it!
Also - does anybody know if this is an iron head? I guess so as its rusty!
Thanks!
James Read more
yes thanks , I was only trying to avoid taking a cyl head off , but looks like the inevitable has happened, I have another engine with bottom end damage so it is the only way forward. I have not enough info on this engine , and looks like a haynes is necessary to complete some knowledge not available at this stage.
I have a Transit Connect fitted with the 1.8 TDCi engine. It runs fine but the engine is lumpy just off tickover, and again at about 2000rpm. This is when holding it on the throttle while stationary.
When actually driving it seems OK but is a bit lumpy when reversing. The van has only done 1,000 miles. Performance seems good with no flat spots or hesitation.
Is this a fault, or just normal for a new engine? I read somewhere that the injectors might need recoding? Read more
I don't normally. It was just that I noticed while I was waiting at traffic lights, and revving the engine up a bit (to about 1500rpm) before engaging the clutch, that it was a bit rough. So I tried a few more RPM and it was still rough...I thought it may be a fault. However this appears to be normal.
Thinking on buying a used 3.0tdi or 4.0tdi A8, anyone any info? Read more
I think the problematic one was the 5HP24. It was only fitted to 4wd A6 and A8 models - it was never fitted to fwd versions. The VAG code for the really bad ones is usually DTD or DTE. They all fail eventually.
Audi dropped the 40k change for regular autos (NOT the Multitronic which is compleltely different) when they went from 4sp to 5sp in the mid-90's.
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If your fuel fiter has the priming pump fitted check to see if hard when you pump? if soft and you pump it it goes hard fuel is leaking back to the tank and a new unit is required, the seals wear out.