November 2008
My new car is due it's first MoT next year.
How will I know exactly when to book it in? Will it be due on the date that I took delivery of the car or maybe when the garage did the PDI on it.
Also will I still be able to take it in a month early to have the test and still get the certificate post-dated like I could if I already had a MoT?
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The clutch has started to slip on my diesel accord. After talking to my local Honda garage they have told me that it is a dealer-fit item as you need a special tool to remove and refit the clutch. I intend to get the parts myself for my mechanic friend to fit them as he will be much cheaper than the £695 for 6.9 hours labour only Honda wants. The clutch and release bearing are another £242 (original Honda parts) but I have been advised that it is wise to fit a new dual mass flywheel at the same time.
Can anyone advise me of the following:
1) Do you need the special tool, if there is such a thing?
2) Is it essential to replace the dual mass flywheel also?
3) Is it possible to convert to a single mass flywheel to save money?
4) Are there any aftermarket clutch kits for the Honda diesel engine?
Any other relevant advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
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Yes, sorry, should have mentioned that wear items are not included, although there is an option where you could do so. I didn't even ask as I presume it would be hideously expensive.
As it is, clutch plates would not be covered, but the DMF would be, for example.
I was interested in this topic as I had read the Manchester Evening News report. Co-incidentally, I started my police career on the beat in Northern Moor, where the OP lives, before joining the road patrol at the end of the 'Wolseleys with bells' period.
I retired before the 'computer era' but have earlier procedures now been abandoned? What happened to the 5 days to produce your documents? If the OP had pleaded his case and the officer had no evidence to disbelieve him, why not issue the driver with a form HO/RT/! (a producer). He presumably knew the identity and ownership of the car was correct via the PNC. Then the situation, expense and bad feeling would not have happened and the OP could continue his journey.
As far as I can see, the MIB database is a tool that the police may use. But the tool is broken and inefficient.. Would any professional in another trade be happy using a broken tool ? I have a small experience of this, I own and use a small classic van. Last year I tried to tax it on line and the computer threw back at me the answer 'There is no record of any insurance for this vehicle'.
'Strange, I was about 9 months into a fully comprehensive policy. Fortunately I had not been caught' on the road or, no doubt, I would have suffered the same fate as Steve.
Ted
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"Uninsured cars" are primarly detected by ANPR cameras and people may be interested in reading this Manchester NO2ID factsheet covering the issues with automatic number plate recognition (ANPR) cameras. ANPR is not all it is cracked up to be and this interesting factsheet clearly highlights the problems with over reliance on databases for law enforcement::...
My wipers have stopped working. I took it to the Peugeot garage today expecting to be told I need a new motor or something trivial, but got told it's the Com 2000 which needs replacing. Apparently this is the thing which works everything the stalks touch, but it's only my front wipers that don't work. Lights, indicators, back window etc. are all fine. Do I need a new Com 2000 or is there a quick and cheaper fix? Read more
Not sure about a brand-new one... My record is fitting seven before I got one that worked. Comms for ESP cars contain a steering angle sensor and have to be calibrated after installation.
I'd feel a lot happier if I could be sure that the problem had been expertly diagnosed - the wiper motors do fail rather a lot on these....
Help
i have recently purchased a 04 plate 1.3 cdti corsa design, there is a problems as the oil light keep flashing now and again, i have checked the oil that's fine, changed the oil pressure switch it still does it so i took into vauxhall they said there was a problem with some models having short dip sticks .. i believed him tried that oil was the same as still the problem continues?
can any one help?
thanks in advance
Simon
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there is a known issue with the oil light flashing, first thing is to top up to max on dipstick then add 200ml ONLY, or there is modified software from the dealer to delete the indication of low oil level which is basically what you are getting with the oil light flashing, there is another way which is a modfied dipstick from Engine-Breakpoint: Z13DT505177.IMPORTANT THING is NOT to over fill with oil as damage can occur, dealer should have known/investigated these things for you, but are chargeable, there is a field remedy number which is FR1676 won't mean much to you but the dealer should be able to deal with it
I have been trying to fix my reverse light switch today but I can't find it. My dads has two wires going into a plug (the reverse light switch) , mine has four wires going into a plug and its in a different place. Both have the same engine 1.3 Endura and are both 1996 builds, I am confused.
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/reve...g
You can see a plug with a connector on the right hand side, there is four wires going into it, the only other connector I can see is to the left and is missing of the picture although you can see the wire, my dads also has this and I believe this is for the ECU?
What is going on? Read more
Right, you should have:
a BROWN wire with a GREEN stripe
a BROWN wire with a GREEN stripe
a BLUE wire with an ORANGE stripe *
a BLUE wire with a YELLOW stripe *
* short these two together to turn your reversing lights on.
Hi, have a starting problem with a Peugeot 106. It's a '99 1.1 petrol. The battery was flat, so i removed it last night and charged it overnight, put it back on the car this morning ready to take it for MOT, and the thing now won't start. It spins over merrily but won't fire at all. Sounds like some sort of immobiliser problem, and i believe from the handbook it has a chipped key immobiliser. However, the manual also says that if the battery is removed and replaced, switch on the ignition, wait 10 seconds and then start it, and failing that 'contact your Peugeot dealer'. Hmm.....helpful huh! So, any bright ideas or suggestions gratefully received. Car belongs to my partners son and he's just turned 17 so is chomping at the bit to get out in it, and also has zero money for main dealer repairs/diagnosis. I haven't heard the car run, but he tells me it was fine before (while giving me that 'why have you broken my car' look!) Interestingly, the radio/interior light circuit are also dead, but fuses are fine. He fitted a new stereo to it, but again said it was working fine before i took the battery off and recharged it.
Any help gratefully received!!
Thanks....Jon Read more
Teenagers! Don't you love them!
No, they are a royal PITA, unlike us of course who were perfect..;)
Dear Members,
I have just bought a 106 from my aged aunt who had not run it for about 8 weeks. It started first time when I tried it. 3 days later without use the battery was flat. I have repaced the battery but there seems to be an excessive drain from somewhere as it goes completely flat in a couple of days. It is as though a switch or something has stuck open when I started it after the long rest. I would be grateful if anyone has any idea where to look. Read more
All sorted, the "new" battery, one of H******** best was to fault..losing 4 volts over 12 hrs ...of course they are not admitting that the battery is faulty!! Glad I wasted a few weekends checking everything on the car except the new battery as sure being new it would be fine. Learn something new every day..lol
OK, this is an S registration Saxo. Regularly serviced, well-maintained (on the whole!).
There are two engine problems, possibly related. This is my partner's car, so I don't drive it much...what I'm reporting is based on a combination of her description of what happens, and my experiences when I have driven it.
The first problem is that it will often lose power, frequently to the point of stalling. This seems to happen more often on overrun, but will sometimes do it apparently spontaneously. It can normally be kept running with a little judicious nursing of the throttle, then the problem passes and it's running fine again.
The second problem is a little more mysterious. At some point - which seems to be more often when the engine is warm - the engine will start regularly revving, as if someone is blipping the throttle. It happens slightly more often than once a second, and doesn't rev highly, just to a couple of thousand revs or so. This can go on for quite a few seconds, maybe a minute. Again, it's spontaneous: I haven't been able to link it to any particular situation on the road, and it comes and goes quite independently of anything the driver is doing.
They're both somewhat troubling, as the first problem can suddenly leave the car without power, and the second, especially if it occurs while the car's in traffic, makes it more difficult to control moving away from rest and low-speed manoeuvring.
My partner's mentioned it to the garage, who've done a spot of the old teeth-sucking and suggested it's something to do with an "air box" (?associated with the carb?), and indicated that it's likely to be an expensive fix. If nothing else, I'd like to know a little more about what this might be, and perhaps some pointers if anyone's got any ideas.
FWIW, the brakes are terrible (though pass the MOT nicely) - perhaps I'm just spoiled by my Celica, but I always have a few heartstop moments whenever I first try to stop the Saxo on the fairly rare occasions that I do drive it! I'm going to try out the top tip about adjusting the pedal adjuster mentioned on the car-by-car page...
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I can echo what everyone has said about Saxo brakes they are dreadful. When I got mine a few years back I changed discs, pads, brake fluid and adjusted the rear drums and they were no better.
Learned to drive a bit further back from the car in front!
Hi,
My rear wiper has stopped parking in the correct place and now parks about 1/3 of the way through its cycle. The wash function works okay and it does the 5 swipes to clean the window but when it finishes and parks, it ends up in the wrong position. Is there a relay somewhere that needs replacing???
Hope you can help, its beginning to drive me mad.
slt Read more
I've been having the same problem - self park not working - but I think it might not be the relay. I just took out the fuse panel and tried some swapping.
I pulled out R18 and the rear wiper stopped working...
I'd take your V5 to play safe. One months worth of MOT isn't worth much, but for the sake of carrying it "just in case" might be wise.