November 2008
Hi, my 04 BMW 320d Estate has not been moved for a couple of months and now when i turn the ignition it just clicks. I have been let down by my warranty providers as I didn't address it within 14days reporting it.
Thinking it is the battery, if so does someone know where the battery is to remove it to charge it? or where it is so that I can try to jump start it with leads?
If anyone thinks it might be something else then please suggest
Many thanks and sorry for my ignorance!
Regards
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Yes I know about the heavy fuel/oil consumption, high emissions and the lack of torque but what is this car like to live with apart from that? It comes with the recommendation of Jay Leno (someone who despite the buffoon act really knows his cars) and they are priced very temptingly now. Not thinking of buying one at the moment but it is a car that interests me, especially because of that unique engine and would like to know if anyone has actually put big miles on that Rotary engine without hassle.
P.S check out the Johnny Herbert video on www.mazda.co.uk Read more
Thanks folks, It's a no go anyway for me at the moment financially although casting my eyes for one of the 70s gems mentioned in another post.
I reckon one would be strung up if one took an RX7/8 with V8 conversion to an owners club meeting though! I have always thought that the unique engine was the attraction of these cars.
I have a grande punto on a 55 plate, 33000mile, I have had since new and had no problems, until yesterday. I came to start the car in the morning, and it did't seem right. The air bag warning light came on the digital dash board screen, my fuel gauge and temp gauge didn't work neither did my speedo and rev count. The ABS, brake, airbag and coolant light were illuninated, oh and the fuel low light was flashing, The radio didn't work and there was a message displayed on the screen, CANCHECK. has anybody come across this on there punto,and what does it mean? and how do I stop it?? Read more
Thank you both, thats great thanks. thats more info that the main dealer could give me on friday, they seemed bewildered by the fault......chris
Have just had to empty the wheel well of water and in desperation am wondering if anyone can point me at a solution to this.
In the past I have removed the rear side trims and can see that the water is coming down through the rear bodywork (roof side pressings) and exiting halfway down the boot opening inside the car (rust stains) on both sides. It then ends up in the rear wheel well.
Some while ago I got the local dealer to "fix it" (3 times) under the known Technical bulletin, but their solution seems to have been just to smear sealant around the end of the roof bar channel which reduced but never stopped the leaks.
Ideally, what I'd like is either a copy of the bulletin or full details of what it contained.
Any suggestions please?
{Post reformatted to use the whole width of the box, and not just 2 thirds of it} Read more
Hi
...
Hi,
My nightmares are unfolding slowly....according to the mot history, the last two mot says:
06/06 -Offside Power steering pipe(s) or hose(s) has slight seepage from a component (2.3.1b)
06/07 -Power steering pump has slight seepage from a component (2.3.1b)
Is this something I can fix myself or do I need to take it to a garage?
Also the PAS fluid level is below the minimum mark. I went to a garage to buy the fluid and I also mention the leak. The guy gave me a Granville ATF Dexron, part no. 0117, and said top it up and see how quick the fluid level drops.
I cannot see the ford speficication numbers anywhere on the bottle, I checks their website, is this stuff OK for my focus?
www.granvilleoil.com/transmissionwind.html
Thanks Read more
Thanks guys, I will take your advice and live with it. I topped it up just over a week ago, still same label, will monitor and see how long it takes to go down to Min. level.
A friend of mine has a audi a3 1.8 sport 1999 and the ABS light comes on occasionally, it always goes away again, she had a VAG diagnostic test done and the fault code was something like no power to abs brakes, so the garage who did it cleared the fault code and for a while it did not come on, then recently its starting to come on again, she wanted to know is there any common faults with ABS on audi A3's? or how to solve this problem? thanks in advance Read more
This is the tricky bit.You will need to cut and remove a section of the plastic case directly behind the main terminal connector block and also the smaller connector behind the 2-pin pump plug.A small hacksaw or a rotary cutting tool (Dremel type)is the best idea but you need to be very very careful not to cut too deep otherwise the circuit board will be wrecked.With the circuit board exposed,close inspection should reveal dry solder joints on the pins,especially the 2-pin plug.Do you feel brave?If not give it to an expert.hth
Last Thursday I was driving home when the MFD alerted me to stop, and indicated that there was a problem with the Oil Pressure on my diesel engined Passat. Having ignored such warnings in years gone by, and having learned my lesson, I stopped straight away.
I checked the oil level, as the handbook suggested, and it was fine. The handbook advised that if that was the case, I should seek professional assistance. I called the RAC and they recovered the car back home, as it was 11pm, and no garage was open.
A friends son, who is a mechanic with Honda, popped over the next day and plugged his diagnostic kit in to the car. The RAC guy and my friend's son both thought that maybe there was a sensor fault or an oil pump fault, but neither of these were reported. The only fault reported was "175057/P0673 Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit - Q12".
I've Googled that error code and as it suggests, it's simply a dodgy glow plug.
I'm finding it very hard to get a tow to the local VW garage which is just 2.7 miles away and I'm wondering if anyone can shed any more info on what could be the cause of these symptoms, and whether it would be ok to drive to the dealership. Friends son suggested it would be OK to do so, but I am worried I will damage the engine.
The warning doesn't come on straight away, and only shows when I move the car.
Almost all that I've read about the oil pressure warning online, following a Google search, suggest that it might be a simple case of needing an oil change. Indeed, the Service in xxx miles indicator had been showing since the start of last week, and finally turned to SERVICE NOW just 200 or so miles before the STOP OIL PRESSURE warning showed.
I guess what I'm asking is that if the pressure sensor was faulty or if the oil pump had failed, would that have been reported by the diagnostic tools? Read more
Well the RAC did a follow on tow for me, and it was left with VW last night. Turns out there is a small leak from a pipe and also the "rocker cover" (??)
So nothing too major.
Still, as the car has done 76k in 3 years, I think I'll be getting rid, as this is probably the first of many problems to come.
I have a 2001 Audi A4 2.0 petrol and have a problem with the remote C/L and security system. I have gone through the re-programing remote procedure to no avail. The car is completely dry inside and in the boot.
a) The Remote C/L doesn't work, I have fitted new batteries into both keys but still nothing.
b) The front doors, boot lock and fuel flap work ok from the key however both the rear doors don't lock on the C/L system. I currently am having to use the manual over ride which is a pain.
c) The alarm is not working, the LED in the drivers door is not flashing or lit continuously, the hand book says if the LED is lit rather than flashing then there is a fault but say's nothing about it not being lit at all.
I can't help thinking there is a link between the two faults.
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Time to get a scalpel out and remove the loom tape to find those solder joints.
Or is it just me? I see my neighbours looking at me as if I'm mad, but I've done this ever since I had a driving licence. Beats standing there with a scraper, or spraying toxic chemicals all over the place. There seems to be an urban myth that the screen will shatter, and perhaps it would with boiling water, but I find that even tepid water will do the trick.
Anyone else?
tt Read more
This thread is starting to degenerate. A summary would be that nearly all that respond says they do indeed use warm/tepid water to defrost cars. And there is some concern that this could refreeze on the car and especially on the road.
So unless there is something new to add to this (it's not a poll) then think before replying.
Ta
Rob (as a moderator)
I'd very much like to report a smoky car I followed (for several miles) this morning, but the VOSA "Smoky Vehicle Reporting Form" VOSA 551 appears to only apply to HGVs and PSVs. Am I correct in this assumption, and if so, is there any other means of reporting the car?
It appears to be taxed and insured, at least. Read more
i once reported a double decker to the police. over several days i'd been stuck behind this bus belching out smoke. The copper was not having it. Those buses are serviced to the most stringent schedules. i can tell you. He just diidn't want know.
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All fixed, thanks