November 2008
I am hoping someone can help me, I'm looking at buying a 2005 Focus 1.6 TDCi Ghia and I see that Honest John states these engines have chains and belt - can someone explain what the pulley part does?
I previously had a 2000 1.8TDDi Focus and this had a pulley and cam belt I think, the belt I had to keep having changed every 30k as it squealled - I believe this belt drove the power steering and water pump etc.
I see that Mondeo's have chain's only - so how are there power steering and water pump etc powered?
Finally has anyone any feedback on the reliability of Focus 1.6TDCi engines - I'm looking at a 3 yr old one with 40k on the clock?
Thanks in advance,
mands Read more
I assume the ANPR system ignores foreign registered vehicles or that traffic cops assume these are visitors to these shores and thus covered by foreign insurance and don't need UK tax.
I ask because a foreign plated car has parked outside a house near me for over 12 months, but shows no UK tax disc, which surely it ought to?
This also makes me wonder whether it is one of the alleged million-plus uninsured
vehicles on the road?
Are the local BIB likely to be interested in checking? Read more
Report him if you think its such a big deal.
Now this in danger of being a silly question so please bear with me. I have owned a Ford Mondeo Ghia X diesel estate for nearly four years. It seems that I am the third owner. It was first registered in February 02. The V5 has the last owners name and the service book has the original owner's details. Idly thumbing through the service book I notice that the pre-delivery inspection was carried out by a Ford dealership in Antwerp.
It would appear never to have been registered anywhere but the UK but this little anomaly puzzles me. I know there was a trend some years ago for buying RHD cars through continental dealers and shipping them here to save money but if that is the case with mine would it have been registered in Antwerp first and then imported or could it have been delivered direct to the UK or something ?
Not important to me now as it is very far on in its life in mileage terms and any value implications can only be marginal now as it is either worth very little or perhaps not a lot. :-(
I may well just keep it until it will no longer function but if I were to sell it does this detail have any relevance ?
Just curious really to know what this wee clue might tell me about its childhood. Read more
We were getting ?1.45 to £1.00 six months ago, and now it's down to ?1.17 : £1.00, so I guess that's clobbered any opportunity to save money.
Hi everyone,
I thought best to give everyone a full description of my problem and what to do to get it fixed cheaply
Having read so much about this common diesel pump problem it was no wonder after hitting shy of 100k my car started to play up.
People have suggested that you can get about 10k out off the car until it dies...with me try 100 miles.
It all started last week when the car started to cut out after starting from cold, two or three minutes into my journey once the car was warm everything was fine.
One week later and im not able to start car, so much for 10k miles.
My next step was to establish exactly how much this problem was going to cost to have put right, bearing in mind i did have some idea having read what others have said.
I contacted my local mazda where they quoted me £1200 + vat for recon.
I then phoned a diesel specialist in Coventry who quoted, £50+vat for diagnostics, then £270+vat for the removal and reinstallment of the pump. The pump once out would then be sent to Feather Diesel in Halifax to have it reconditioned and that little beauty would cost a cool £470+vat. All in all not much change out of grand, ouch!
I decided to contact feather diesel directly myself just to check the price etc quoted by the diesel specialist in coventry. Feather's confirmed the price, for a garage to send the pump to them for reconditioning would cost £470+vat.
I spoke to a guy called Mike at feathers who said, why not drive the car down to Halifax that way i would save the diagnostic charge plus the charge for taking the pump out and then reinstalling it. He said if i could find out the diesel pump product number he would be able to tell me if the pump was the old one or the new one. The old one can be fixed without the pump being taken out whereas the new style pump would need to be removed from the engine to be fixed. Old pump style would cost £250+vat to be fixed, whereas the new pump for repair would cost £670+vat. I phoned Mazda, gave them my registration number and they gave me the diesel pump product number. I then phoned Mike back who thankful told me my pump was in fact the old style which meant the pump could be fixed without it being removed...£250+vat get in there.
He then said he knows exactly whats wrong with the pump and it would be a faulty component called the suction valve.
I asked Mike how many of these does he have to repair and his repsonse was alarming. At one point it was 60 pumps a week. Amazing how mazda still refuse to except there was a problem with the pumps. Most pumps would fail outside of the warranty meaning Mazda rarly had to cough up.
I travel to Feathers in the moring to have this work carried out so i will reply back and let you all know how i get on.
IF SOMEONE CALLED DIESELDAZ READS THIS CAN YOU GET IN TOUCH WITH ME BECAUSE YOUR THE ONLY PERSON I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO FIND WHO HAS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AS ME WITH REGARDS TOO A MAZDA 6 CHUCKING OUT LOADS OF SMOKE WHEN PARKED FACING DOWNWARDS, I WAS LOOKING FORWARD TOO YOUR REPLY AS TO WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM. IF ANYBODY KNOWS DIESELDAZ LET HIM KNOW
My email address: andrew.2.parsons 'at' bt.com
{Volume in subject header lowered} Read more
just to let you know that the trip to Feathers was a success, they replaced the SCV and the car has not cut out since. Was chatting to one of the mechanics and they have had loads of Mazdas in for this.
Took a few hours and cost about £350....
Hi All,
As the title suggests, i've currently got run flats, the rear tyres almost need replacing. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts were. Are there any advantages to putting normal tyres on? Other than saving a few quid on the actual tyre purchase?
If I do swap to normal tyres I would need a spare wheel. Does anyone know if the spare wheel and jack from my old E46 is compatible with the 5 series?
5 series is a 520d 2006.
Thanks! Read more
The smaller the wheel diameter and larger the tyre the better the ride will be, but if you dont mind the hard ride then larger wheels with low profile tyres will give you better handling, personally, I would go with the good ride - but then I would use cross plies if they still made them!
Following on from technical matters and my wifes poorly rover 214, we have just done a deal on a pre-reg Grande Punto Stripe and wondered if anyone has any owner experiences, things to look out for etc?
Ihave checked Car-by-car and it looks like they are well screwed together, which would reflect the impression I had when looking around the car.
The bluetooth handsfree and steering wheel controls looks like a nifty little toy at least!
Not sure if we have paid a bit too much but its only done 4 miles, pre-reg Stripe edition, got a full tank of fuel, 12 months VED, mats etc for £6900. We did look at these in July when they came out and were around 9K so quite happy we waited a few months!
Hopefully we will get as good a service as we have had from the Rover over the next 6-7 years. Read more
The car is very economical doing about 46-48 mph according to the computer display.
Can I suggest changing up a gear or 2 to improve your mph??
Lovely looking car, the GP. If I was in this market I think I would find them hard to resist.
I have a new Touran 1.9tdi 105 bhp on order, and delivery due in Jan. 2009.
My current 2005 Touran 1.9tdi is subject to a service & maintenance contract, and was supplied under the variable regime terms. The oil is Castrol SLX fully synthetic. I do about 9,000 miles/year, and I noticed that VW recommend time and distance service for 10,000 and below mileages.
It is my intention to have time and distance specified from the start. For my previous Golf estate, I used VW Quantum semi-synthetic oil, and changed the oil and filter at 5,000 mile intervals.
Checking the Castrol reference chart on line, I find two recommendations:
Touran 1.9tdi QG1 says to use EDGE 5W-30
Touran 1.9tdi QG2 says to use EDGE TURBO DIESEL 5W-40
The car is a turbo-diesel, but what is the difference between QG1 and QG2?
I believe that EDGE is a fully synthetic oil. If this is what is in the engine on delivery, will it be better to stay with this and only do a 10,000 mile oil and filter change, or would semi-synthetic oil and filter change at 5,000 miles give better protection?
Or would the differences be too insignificant to make the 5,000 mile change worthwhile.
Regards, Touran Man
Read more
At 45000 miles my Turbo packed in entirely and was replaced by VW dealer with a refurbed part under the extended warranty scheme. This part immediately failed and was replaced after heated negoatiation and against VW procedures with a new Turbo.
Ive read a number of reviews that give a similar time to Fail for the Turbo in Touran / Sharan / Passat TDI cars. Certainly was for me.
Imagine being in the outside lane of the motor way and you turbo suddnely gives up giving you no acceleration, worse still when you are 150miles from home!
Hello - I just wandered if anyone in this forum can pass an informed eye on the fuel economy I am getting ( or not getting ) from my Sept 2005 Diesel Espace 2.2DCi (non-FAP apparently). It is a 5 speed Auto with the "tiptronic" option - i.e pushing the stick to the left turns it into a clutchless manual. I have tried using both methods. I am not new to automatics and have never had ANY car give such poor fuel consumption in 20 years of car ownership, let alone a diesel.
I bought it used about 2 months ago with 26k on the clock, and have added about 3.5k since. No matter how I drive it - and I am a careful driver, I cannot get better than 25mpg. The only passengers I carry are my wife and 3 year old daughter, but most of the time it's just me. I drive a mixture of about-town and motorway/A roads.
It has gotten to the stage where whenever I see a similar Espace parked somewhere, I loiter to ask the owners what they get ! I haven't found anyone that says they get less than 32mpg at worst, and one of those was a Grand Espace. But then again, none have had an automatic.
I asked Honest John who suggested a figure of low thirties was probably more realistic, and he suggested I should also work out the consumption using the traditional pump to pump method, rather than relying on the car's computer - but I get more or less the same result.
Does anyone else out there own a 2.2 DCi Espace Auto, adn can you confirm if I am unlucky or is this the norm ? Before taking the plunge I did as much research as possible even downloading the spec sheets for my very model (the 2.2 DCI Ellen McArthur Globe edition) to chek the mpg figures. I know they are not written in stone but, still, it shouldn't be this bad - should it ??
Digressing, has anyone else found that when you have the Auto-headlight feature activated, if you drive through somewhere dark eg. a tunnel or under trees, the lights come on but then fail to go back off when you enter a normally lit area ?
PS - at a tangent - here's a tip if your seat belt alarm keeps going off - you've probably got something - even something as light as a book, on the passenger seat.
Thanks for any help ! Read more
Hello - I just wandered if anyone in this forum can pass an informed eye on the fuel economy I am getting ( or not getting ) from my Sept 2005 Diesel Espace 2.2DCi (non-FAP apparently). It is a 5 speed Auto with the "tiptronic" option - i.e pushing the stick to the left turns it into a clutchless manual. I have tried using both methods. I am not new to automatics and have never had ANY car give such poor fuel consumption in 20 years of car ownership, let alone a diesel. I bought it used about 2 months ago with 26k on the clock, and have added about 3.5k since. No matter how I drive it - and I am a careful driver, I cannot get better than 25mpg..............
Hi I have been looking at buying one of these (albeit manual) and you may want to have a look at getting the engine management system software upgraded/remapped. From other forums there appears to be an issue with the mapping of some models which results in poor mpg. One chap said he had to tell the Renault dealer what to look for before they would believe there was an issue with the vehicle and engine management. Apparently he had legitimate access to Renault service notes. Since there are upgrades, Renault obviously know but do not advertise the fact there is a problem. At my local garage, non-dealer independant, he has a chap who can remap the engines with the correct software. I know this as I had to have a Scenic remapped to correct a problem of lack of power.
I hope you sort out the problem....
The time has come again where my sump is full to the brim, and requires an oil change. It seems like only yesterday that I had the last change carried out (oh it was!) Does anyone know of a cheap source for engine oil, best I've found is £54.00 for 5l and with the filter just under a tenner I might just as well pay the dealer £90.00 to do it for me. Has anyone found a reasonable price to carry out this monthly task! Read more
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=77225
I've had the same problem but a worse outcome.. If anyone would like to coem to watchdog with me, please let me know..... Im not accepting my car back from mazda and mazda have lied and lied to me.
My email address is: contact@modxpc.com
Petrol, Expression model- This may sound stupid but is it common for these particular vehicles to have no oil dipstick? It says in the vehicle guide to check the oil either rely on what the onboard dash reading says, or check using the dipstick. I dont trust these dash board lights etc so would like to double check using the dip stick. But where there should be the "ring pull" to lift out the stick there is just a plastic sphere that seems to be a whole plastic unit, stuck fast in to area where the dipstick should be. I have messed about with it thinking it is a screw in or something but having no joy. Am I being stupid here or did they make some of these without a dipstick?? Hel[ would be appreciated! Read more
From memory it should have a yellow cap and yep it was a bit hard to remove. It is all in the manual btw.
Thanks very much for your replies, the focus I am looking at is just over 3 yrs old and therefore out of waranty, the other issue I'm not too sure about is that it was owned previously by someone at the dealership who worked in one of the garages, but 2 of the service stamps are a from a mobile service chap rather than full ford service stamps - not sure if everything would have been changed therefore.
The auxillary belt on my mk1 focus used to squeak after 20 / 30k miles and the only way they could solve it was to change it - I had it cahnged 3 times and am trying to avoid buying a car with the potential to do and cost the same! I'll look at 1.8tDCi's but also chain Mondeo's - I did have a 2.2TDCi a year ago and loved it, so another but lesser powered one, and hopefully cheaper to run appeals!
Thanks again