January 2014
Hi there, I have a 407 2.0 HDi (2007) and have started having some issues with the Power Steering and would appreciate any advice!
It is leaking out of the cap quite excessively and also it is starting to become very heavy when driving. I had tried to 'bleed it' as suggested on another thread by overfilling, turning to almost full lock, running engine etc and then test drive. This didn't solve anything as it is still gushing out the top of the cap. All thoughts, advice welcome! Read more
Hi everyone,
I would appreciate if someone could advise me on an issue i have.
My EML light turned on approx. 8 months ago. Diagnostics revealed a turbo fault code.
I have bot commited to major works but have tried the following:
1. Simply reseting the code
2. Waiting for an effect after service
3. Injector fluid
1 & 2 as suspected had no impact. However 3 had an interesting effect. Now, when the engine is cold the turbo works magically. The granistion between supercharger and turbo is beautiful…until the engine is hot about 10mins later. Then the whine from the supercharger is aparent up-to 3.5k rpm above which there is a jerk and the engine just seems to become a standard 1.4 with no life.
The boost needle is full boost during the supercharger range (which is now protracted) up-to 3.5k and then goes down to 1/4 or 1/2 above 3.5k.
Thanks,
Amit Read more
Hi sorry to here of your problem. Having paid VW so much money I would insist that they check what work they have done. they have to disturb quite a lot of components to access the turbo and there is a good chance the work was not done correctly! Their work is guaranteed for 12 months. you know your car insist that they check it.
I don't know what issues you had with Vw customer service but it is par for the course when dealing with them. You must not be fobbed off and insist....
Hi all
I should start by saying I know very little about cars. If it moved, that'll do!
I have a 2008 Peugeot 207 and yesterday started getting an 'anti pollution fault' message on the dashboard. Took it to the dealership today and they've said that I need;
Oxygen sensor
Thermostat housing
Mass air sensor
At total cost of £598.66
I admit, I was a little naive, bought the car 18 months ago and was told it only need servicing every 2 years. I have done a lot more miles than I thought - 20,000 in the past 2 years. Garage tells me the problems are my own fault because I should have had it serviced at 10,000.
Anyway...anyone have any idea what work like this should cost me? Dealership says if I don't get it fixed, I'll have a catastrophic engine failure before too long. Feel stupid! Can anyone help please? I'd be SO grateful. Read more
If you need an independent inspection I manage a group of Peugeot owners with the same Planet / Lexia equipment that dealers use:
Hello Everyone,
In the market for a 4x4 as we have a large dog we want to keep in the boot. Looking for something sub £5k with FSH, less than 100k on the clock and less than 10 years old. After having a bit of a look about it looks like these 3 options are what I should be looking for, what would you go for out of those 3?... Read more
In the market for a 4x4 as we have a large dog we want to keep in the boot. Looking for something sub £5k with FSH, less than 100k on the clock and less than 10 years old.
What you want is a large estate car and not a 4 x 4. The large estate will be much easier for the dog to get into and will cost much less to run. For the same money you will get a much newer car....
Do I have to take any special precautions when changing the battery - so as to preserve immobiliser and or radio? Read more
Yes.When you reconnect the battery,turn on the ignition for 5 mins before attempting to start the car.This will allow the various communication networks to re-initialize.hth
Hi, can anyone help me with a radio code please. The radio number is M022322, bought this 3 mths ago and previous owner had no paperwork or manual so I dont know which Ford garage it originally came from. Many thanks for helping me Read more
For Ford V Radio Codes. You can get them here >www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ford-radio-codes
2003 Doblo 1.9 JTD
The Symptoms:
Moderate to severe wobble/shake on acceleration in all gears from about 1500 RPM upwards. Particularly apparent in 2nd & 3rd gears, but if I put my foot down in any gear the shake will result until I ease back on the accelerator.
No wobble whatsoever when coasting out of gear at any speed, (or with clutch depressed). No wobble when stationary at any revs, so hopefully not clutch or DMF.
Wobble felt through seats, floor, but not really through the steering wheel or gearstick. FEELS like it's coming from the front of the van but it's hard to say. Also difficult to say whether the wobble is side to side or front to back etc. I estimate that the shake oscillates at 4 to 6 pulses a second. It's not pleasant!
Wobble happens only when accelerating straight ahead or turning left (worst). No wobble at all when turning to the right. So joining roundabouts I get a wobble, while on the roundabout no wobble, when I turn off roundabout the wobble resumes.
The greater the load (eg uphill) the more severe the wobble.
The only way I can get the wobble to lessen (though it's still there) is to carry a passenger (or presumably a heavy sack of something) in the cab with me. The added weight on that side of the front of the van seems to quell the shaking. Or to accelerate very slowly through the gears. Or just go round clockwise circles.
Steering, braking and general handling otherwise seem normal. There's no visible play in the steering, and that's not where you feel the wobble anyway.
The engine pulls like a train so I don't think it's the problem. The gearbox had new bearings and diff gears last year, and the gearbox guys who did the work don't think the problem lies in the box.
When sitting on axle stands, and the wheels driven, the wobble can still be felt (though fainter) so I'm suspecting that it's not a problem from the rear axle. Obviously the load is less when the wheels are dangling in the air.
Things I've tried so far...
Wheels (original steel) and tyres all thoroughly checked, tested, balanced. Tracking checked. All wheels inflated and tightened correctly.
All four wheel bearings are quiet with no free play or noise when the wheels are spun and shaken top/bottom, forward/back, and side-to-side.
More than one garage has inspected all visible suspension/steering bushes, joints, links etc and can find no wear. Crowbars have been applied to wishbones to check for free play.
Top and bottom gearbox mounts have been changed.
N/S driveshaft inner CV tripod joint replaced by independent Fiat specialist. When this didn't help, I got an entire new driveshaft fitted on the O/S. No improvement. So both inner CV joints are new. The van turns in tight circles in both directions, backwards and in reverse with no clicks or knocks from the CV joint area.
As I say the only thing that seems to help is when I'm carrying a weight in the passenger seat. I guess that if this was LHD, I wouldn't have a problem!
No one I've spoken to seems to think that the shock absorbers are likely the cause, and there are no nasty squeaks when I bounce the corners. It did occur to me that the upper suspension mountings or shocker bushes may be the culprits, but would they be capable of causing the shake/wobble?
In wet weather (and only when I'm traveling passenger-less) I sometimes get a metallic click or tap coming from the passenger footwell area when I step on and off the accelerator. This may or may not be related to the wobble. I hoped that the new lower gearbox mount would cure this, but a drive today in the rain confirms it's still there.
The gearbox people say they don't think that the problems in the diff as the wobble's there when accelerating straight ahead. The best they could suggest was to try replacing the N/S driveshaft completely, though as I say the inner CV joint is new. I think they were stumped.
The van passed its MOT back in December with no advisories (the wobble was evident at that stage and I had a local garage inspect the front underside prior to the MOT test).
Sooooo...
If anyone has managed to take all of this info in, and has any idea where I should investigate next, please chime in and I'll try to get this van back on the straight and narrow. I'm concerned that the shake will get worse and result in catastrophe.
Likewise, if anyone can recommend a good logical thinking intelligent motor mechanic (in or around NW London) who might be able to troubleshoot the problem, my ears are very much open.
Thank you very much for reading this! Read more
Glad to hear you got to the bottom of it and took the time to update us.
Hi
I had a bit of a scare earlier in wife's Corsa, downhill of course!... Read more
solved! vacuum pumping problem it was, but not the reason i was looking for.
where the vacuum pump joins the servo adaptor, the pipe had split, allowing air in. this was accompanied by water as the rain washed over it from the wipers/scuttle (the by-design system of drainage!). all compounded by lack of visibility of said pipe attaching until you pull the trim apart....
Hi
Bought approved used VW Crafter from VW 6 months warranty. Once warranty expired started having issues. Oil light on topped up oil. Excessive oil consumption 1 litre every 3 -4 weeks. Replaced turbo to no avail. Had engine replaced to no avail. DPF lights constantly coming on despite repeatedly cleaning DPF. Van on short trip mode as used as delivery vehicle. Mileage 87,000, my mileage 10-12000 per year. Well maintained all Vw parts and oils used. Van has become undriveable due to DPF issues. Lamda sensor about to be changed but don't hold out much hope.... Read more
I run two of these, and have found JCB in Sittingbourne very helpful, also VW Roadside Assistance!
My son needs a mid-size estate with an economical diesel.
He is considering these... Read more
The KIAs are very good value and have long warrantys but the Isuzu 1.7 in the Astra is a proven engine capable of racking up huge mileages with little more than standard servicing as long as you religiously change the water pump (+£30) every cambelt change, the 1.7 Isuzu lump in my brother's Vauxhall Combi lasted 472,000 miles (bought off his transport firm who ran it from new) before it finally lost a piston due to a leaky fuel injector.
The Vauxhalls can be picked up really cheaply, a 2009 for £3999: www.cargiant.co.uk/Estate/details-627495-Estate.as...0...
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Hi I've got the same problem on my peugeot 407 did you get it fixed and can you tell me what it was only iv been told it's the pump .